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jamal posted:http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_10_1496_1499_1509&products_id=357 How much do you want for a set?
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Apr 20, 2010 19:36
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I don't know, $20 shipped maybe? They're kind of a pain in the rear end to make and I won't have time for at least a week.
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Apr 20, 2010 22:31
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So I bought a Tsudo N1 catback exhaust for my 2009 WRX (don't want to mess with engine tuning yet), and just an FYI, you definitely need aftermarket exhaust bolts and aftermarket exhaust hangers. I found Kartboy's 12mm XL to be satisfactory, and am going to be calling muffler/exhaust shops tomorrow to find longer bolts. 
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Apr 21, 2010 05:48
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jamal posted:I don't know, $20 shipped maybe? They're kind of a pain in the rear end to make and I won't have time for at least a week. Are you interested in making some? If not don't feel bad refusing. If you are, I am interested at that price point and I think I know another guy that would like some.
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Apr 21, 2010 05:50
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I joined the Flannel club. Just drove my first all-my car home. '03 Impreza TS, 5-speed, with 137k miles on the clock. A bit high I know, but it has a new clutch, and no issues other than a small chip of paint. drat, this is so fun to drive. Pictures forthcoming.
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Apr 24, 2010 16:44
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Congratulations.  The best part about owning a Subaru for me so far is getting waves from everyone else who owns one. It's like being in a cult or some sort of bizarre secret order dedicated to the destruction of all cars that don't growl.
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Apr 24, 2010 17:42
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so i finally finished a 5mt conversion on my 91 legacy wagon, in my driveway on jack stands, with just a floor jack and hand tools. it... really wasn't as bad as i expected, and i semi-purposely made it harder (refusing any help and not doing any research) everything came out perfect though. didnt have any huge problems, besides getting it to start with a key, i was hotwiring the starter every time i wanted to drive. ended up keeping the transmission range sensor plugged in, out of the transmission and turned to neutral. i could have probably looked up the wiring and jumped some pins together but gently caress it it works if anyone is curious, heres a list of what i paid and what i needed -trans, crossmember, driveshaft, and differentual- 150 PULLED FOR ME! -flywheel(brand new in the wagontrunk of the car i got the starter out of) , starter, clutch & brake pedals & cable, shifter linkage + boot and knob- 40$, seriously -brand new clutch- ~170 -fluids were like 30$ ~400$ and i found out you DON'T need a diff if your old and new trans have the same ratio, you just need a new driveshaft. oh and get a cable clutch tranny its a good bit easier to setup. i personally like cables better. also the axles are the same.    so, yeah. stick swap for under 400$! i got all of my used parts from EZ-PULL in New Ringgold, pa by blue mountain/ off of 309. less than half the price of Harry's or anyone else around here, and 2-3x the size. also they had 15+ 1st gen legacies there, and i had 7 manuals to pick from! Captain Crabsticks fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Apr 25, 2010 |
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Apr 25, 2010 17:02
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Goddamn, I would have just driven that trashbag until it exploded and not even bothered, Christ that thing is a mess hahaha.
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Apr 25, 2010 17:55
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TurboLuvah posted:Goddamn, I would have just driven that trashbag until it exploded and not even bothered, Christ that thing is a mess hahaha. To be fair to Captain Crabsticks a 91' like that probably has another 100k in it easy. Might as well enjoy the ride as best you can.
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Apr 25, 2010 20:44
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That's the EJ22, an engine whose primary problem is that it won't die and allow you to replace it with an EJ22 turbo from a Legacy turbo whose body has rusted away. The body will be gone before the powertrain is. My local independent Subaru mechanic has a '91 Legacy turbo sedan sitting in their "for sale" lot and it hurts me to drive past it because I know I could give it a wonderful home if only I had the space. Grind off that surface rust, put some truck tires on it and go tooling around on offroad trails.
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Apr 25, 2010 20:49
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TurboLuvah posted:Goddamn, I would have just driven that trashbag until it exploded and not even bothered, Christ that thing is a mess hahaha.
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Apr 26, 2010 18:57
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So I just completed my first autocross session on Saturday, and it was an absolute blast.  However, I noticed that my front tires were worn pretty hard after driving home that night. Aside from this, I noticed that my car was pulling a little to the right when driving on Sunday. I plan on getting an alignment done and rotating my wheels front to back today, and from what I've read, I don't think my tires are due for replacement quite yet. But considering I am still a definite beginner mechanic, I've included photos of my tires to get your opinion on the damage.    
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Apr 26, 2010 21:23
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When you get your alignment, tell them to max out the negative camber on the front (without having any cross camber if one adjusts further than the other obviously.) There isn't enough stock adjustment range for you to get in trouble with that recommendation and it will allow the tires to wear more evenly when driving aggressively.
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Apr 26, 2010 21:55
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yeah, the legacy was my first car, and my highschool car, had it for like 7 years now. i also love how it looks with the 00 forester steelies and beat up body... everyone knows it as the battlewagon around here. i've already put 2 (as in i blew 3) 4eats in it, and after the last one i let it sit 8 months until the last tax return which i blew, and this tax i actually put the money out, and it was so worth it. feels great with the 5mt. the main reason i did the conversion is that i already had to pull a trans and i REALLY REALLY wanted the full time 50/50 of the sticks, the electronic controlled rear wasn't the best for hooning (which is this car's ONLY purpose besides picking up engines and trannies for projects) next major project is an eg33 swap (i dont like turbos). i already have the whole thing, engine, full exhaust system to cut up to work in my car, harness, ecu ect but i'm waiting for this ej22 to die, even helping it along a bit. and exactly as seat safety switch says, it won't die and give me a reason to do the swap. also, do you guys think a 4.111 n/a cable trans will be able to handle the torque without blowing up? i planned on using a stock clutch to maybe protect my driveline but i dunno. but yeah, i love this car so so so very much and will NEVER GET RID OF IT EVER. even if i hit a pole or something i'd weld a new front clip on it. Captain Crabsticks fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Apr 27, 2010 |
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Apr 27, 2010 01:43
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Captain Crabsticks posted:but i'm waiting for this ej22 to die, even helping it along a bit. Isn't that kind of... Impossible? Also, I may or may not be interested in this engine for  purposes. Now, how hard can it be to swap one of these into some old beater pickup? 
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Apr 27, 2010 05:25
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I've heard tales of EJ22s running without much in the way of oil, so I'd be really surprised if you can easily kill this one without throwing a bag of sand into the throttle body. You should pull it and build a Vanagon with it.
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Apr 27, 2010 05:27
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I'm definitely putting an EJ22 NA or T in my 1986 XT when the EA-82T blows up. Seriously, some of them catch fire. There's one coolant hose that blows up every 2 years if not changed, everything leaks onto the exhaust and turbo, etc. I think most XT's rusted to death or exploded within 10 years of purchase, as I've never seen another one on the roads. Which is a shame, since just look at the interior holy poo poo it has lasers Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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Apr 27, 2010 06:03
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Well it's been over a month since I put the parts on my car. I meant to post earlier but I've been meaning to take a video and I can't seem to take one that is worth posting. So if you're wondering about the sound, just watch this video and try to ignore the crickets and imagine more bass. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcvpyhELtuc In my opinion, the sound is pretty much perfect both in tone and volume. I usually don't even like loud exhaust at all, but just it sounds so ridiculously good. I know loudness is subjective, so to compare it to something...I'd say that it's much louder than your average car. But it's not nearly as loud as a sickening Harley or compensator truck. It's not even as loud as your average fart-canned Civic, though it's probably right under that. Except it doesn't sound like poo poo. There's no rasp or drone like I've heard from other cat backs. To be completely honest, I've only heard a few other cars that sound as good as this. As far as fitment goes, I'm not going to lie, it was a pain in the rear end. Though that is mostly due to my car having a trailer hitch assembly. I ended up taking it to a shop and having the cat-back modified. The guy did a pretty horseshit job on it but whatever it works. Here's a few pictures I took during the install. Before, the 138k virgin:  I've posted this picture before, but just to refresh your memory, The parts: STI intercooler Ebay Y Pipe STI BPV VF39 Turbo STI Uppipe (used) Invidia catted and divorced downpipe Ebay SurewinProducts V2 catback Grimmspeed Exhaust Gaskets GrimmSpeed 3-Port BCS  The downpipe was shaped slightly wrong causing both the Grimmspeed and OEM gaskets to not fit right. Notice where the gasket cuts too far in on the upper right corner. I ended up having to hold the OEM gasket to that side while I tightened everything down, and somehow I got lucky and it doesn't leak. Boo Invidia!!  After (OMG IT SAYS STIIII):  The Exhaust. It does hang a little low on the axle-back section.:  Turbo heat shield and downpipe:  And the results (this is a 'road dyno' so take that as you will):  The car started at around 170awhp/170awtq, and went to that, all for around $1700 or so all said and done. It's a completely different car now. Before I put the parts on I read somewhere that when upgrading to a VF39 from a TD04, fifth gear pulls like third used to. They weren't lying. To anybody who's considering the swap, DO IT. FecalFajita fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Apr 27, 2010 |
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Apr 27, 2010 16:56
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Nice swap. How much did it set you back?
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Apr 27, 2010 19:22
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He said it was $1700.
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Apr 27, 2010 19:47
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Thanks. I guess I should read better. On a different note, my car (05 WRX) is starting to make a noise if I stop hard. It makes the noise right as the car is stopping completely. Dealership had said that my end links were going out a few months ago. Could this be what is causing the noise? It just started making the noise consistently, can I put off replacing these for a little while? Also, when I do replace them, I plan to upgrade and probably add sway bars. I was thinking KartBoy for new solid end links front and rear. Any reason not to go with them? Any suggestions for cheap sway bars?
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Apr 27, 2010 19:54
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cmorrow001 posted:Also, when I do replace them, I plan to upgrade and probably add sway bars. I was thinking KartBoy for new solid end links front and rear. Any reason not to go with them? Any suggestions for cheap sway bars? quote:Endlinks are one of the most overlooked items when upgrading swaybars and looking to improve the handling of any vehicle. Subaru specifically decided to use cheap plastic endlinks for the stock pieces that bend and flex under spirited driving. This reduces the effectiveness of your stock or aftermarket swaybar significantly. Kartboy is here though to provide solid endlinks with urethane bushings to replace the crappy stock pieces. We strongly recommend bushed endlinks for any vehicle that isn't a pure track car. Installation is simple remove the stock pieces and chuck them in the trash and install the new Kartboy works of art. I'm wondering if this is just an NVH issue or if I should try to find different endlinks than the Kartboy kind to go with Whiteline swaybars.
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Apr 27, 2010 20:04
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Vladimir Putin posted:He said it was $1700. And that's including the tune.
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Apr 27, 2010 20:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:this qualifies them as "bushed" endlinks (as opposed to spherical?) Yeah, once you swap to rose-joints/spherical setup, the NVH increases significantly. As the hardness rises (from soft rubber to urethane to metal), it transmits more high frequency vibrations.
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Apr 27, 2010 20:59
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FecalFajita posted:And that's including the tune. Are you tuned for 91 or 93? i'm by des moines and was thinking of having bullwinkle tune my car but 93 is kind of a pain to find, only one in dsm.
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Apr 27, 2010 22:53
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93. I'm pretty sure it's at every BP in the Minneapolis area.
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Apr 28, 2010 01:17
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Guy on my local forum posted this:quote:Exedy clutch kits on Amazon - 30% off $150 for OEM, $280 for the STG 1 RACING one. This is before me trying any coupon codes. My clutch slips in 4th and occasionally 5th. Should I spring for the OEM or the performance one. I autocross/rallycross/flog to death my car, but don't want a chattery clutch like mine is doing now when its cold. Should I pick up a snout repair kit for while I'm already in there, or are those not worth anything. Car is an 02RS Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Apr 28, 2010 |
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Apr 28, 2010 01:54
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I have a stupid question. I want to buy a downpipe for my 09 STi. I have been looking at the Cobb and Invidia catted versions in an attempt to stay somewhat legal as far as having the same amount of cats on the car as it did from the factory. However, living in California, any aftermarket downpipe is not CARB approved regardless of how many cats it has. So, does it make sense just to get a much cheaper catless downpipe instead? Either way if a cop notices the aftermarket downpipe I assume I would get sent to a ref anyway right? It sounds really dumb, but I've held off on buying this stupid thing for months while trying to make this decision. I really miss modifying cars in MD where I just ripped all of the emissions equipment, vacuum lines, charcoal canister, and cat off the car and still passed with flying colors.
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Apr 28, 2010 06:56
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If I had to guess, the catless downpipe might need to be tuned for; they do have a potential for boost creep (ha!) or spikes. The price of the tuning may eliminate any cost advantage you gain from the catless pipe. Then again, it doesn't really make sense to me to have an upgraded downpipe unless you're planning on tuning for it anyway. Would a police officer really go to the extent of checking the downpipe for CARB legality? Does the stock pipe have a CARB identification number on it or something? How frequently do they check, and for what offenses? I would imagine if it passes emissions with the new pipe on, it'd be OK as long as you didn't suddenly develop a habit of having CARB-trained police officers meticulously analyze your engine bay.
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Apr 28, 2010 07:52
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Subaru gentlemen, I'd like to have a word with you. See, my wife saw some picture of a Aspen White bugeye WRX wagon and fell in love. It has displaced her obsession with BMW wagons and means that I'm likely going to be in the market for one within the next couple months, less if I can convince someone to swap a tastefully upgraded BMW 325is for their bugeye wagon. I do have a few questions: - should I only look for vehicles that have already had their transmission upgraded to the '04+ unit? - timing belt intervals are ~100k -- I am certainly equipped to change a timing belt (air tools, experience), but have never worked on a Subaru. Am I going to be dropping the engine to do it, as is the case with a Porsche? Or is it a relatively straightforward procedure? - how much should I budget for a freshening? Suspension recommendations? Common maintenance items? Standard cheap upgrades (like the $1700 kit that yields 100+ hp) to consider?
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Apr 28, 2010 08:21
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06-07 is much better than 02-05 timing belt is easy and you only need to take off the fans to change it.
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Apr 28, 2010 08:32
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Sterndotstern posted:Subaru gentlemen, I'd like to have a word with you. See, my wife saw some picture of a Aspen White bugeye WRX wagon and fell in love. It has displaced her obsession with BMW wagons and means that I'm likely going to be in the market for one within the next couple months, less if I can convince someone to swap a tastefully upgraded BMW 325is for their bugeye wagon. I'm not sure when the cutoff is, but sometime in 03 they fixed the weak transmission issue on the WRX. Not that I have experience doing it, but you only have to remove the timing belt cover and most likely the radiator to change the timing belt. Maybe a few other things, but definitely not the entire motor. Another thing to consider is that the 06 and later WRX have the 2.5l motor, while the earlier models have only a 2.0. Unless you get the STI, which is also 2.5l.
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Apr 28, 2010 13:50
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If I had to guess, the catless downpipe might need to be tuned for; they do have a potential for boost creep (ha!) or spikes. The price of the tuning may eliminate any cost advantage you gain from the catless pipe. Then again, it doesn't really make sense to me to have an upgraded downpipe unless you're planning on tuning for it anyway. I should have mentioned that I already have the Cobb AP so tuning isn't a problem. I can flash to stage 2 any time (currently at stage 1), so there is no added cost. This supposedly takes care of the boost creep problems and stage 2 is designed for a downpipe, so all good there. And the price difference between catted and catless is about $300, so even with an extra tuning session it would be cheaper with the catless. And yes, in California police officers check cars that they suspect to be modified all the time. They are trained to look for bright colors under the hood and shiny pipes. I guess I'm asking because I probably won't get pulled over and inspected, but in the event that I did, either pipe would not be CARB approved. So does it matter which one is on the car? I'm interested in the catless one because of the money savings, extra performance, and the fact that new cars don't get smogged for 6 years, so I wouldn't even have to worry about it actually passing emissions for a long time.
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Apr 28, 2010 19:37
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I had my car at a shop to get an estimate on the timing belt, and the guy said they change the water pump, thermostat, and I think all the pulleys and poo poo as well. Is that normal? I'm thinking of doing all myself, since they wanted $1000 total for it, and I'm poor.
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Apr 28, 2010 20:06
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pbpancho posted:I had my car at a shop to get an estimate on the timing belt, and the guy said they change the water pump, thermostat, and I think all the pulleys and poo poo as well. Is that normal? I'm thinking of doing all myself, since they wanted $1000 total for it, and I'm poor. $1000 is reasonable for parts and labor for timing service and water pump parts and labor.
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Apr 28, 2010 20:07
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pbpancho posted:I had my car at a shop to get an estimate on the timing belt, and the guy said they change the water pump, thermostat, and I think all the pulleys and poo poo as well. Is that normal? I'm thinking of doing all myself, since they wanted $1000 total for it, and I'm poor. Not that hard to do, I did mine myself. Plenty of resources on the internet for learning. Parts and tools will probably cost you half of that if you do it yourself.
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Apr 28, 2010 20:20
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perabyte posted:Not that hard to do, I did mine myself. Plenty of resources on the internet for learning. Parts and tools will probably cost you half of that if you do it yourself. That's what I was thinking, plus then I have more tools for the next thing that needs fixing. Should I get the pulleys and stuff if I do it myself? I plan on the pump and thermostat at the very least.
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Apr 28, 2010 20:24
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unless you want this to happen: yes you should change all the pulleys.
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Apr 28, 2010 21:41
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I'm not sure what that is showing, but I assume it's very bad. Timing Component Kit $424.09 Belt - A/C $9.39 Water Pump - Remfd $43.99 Belt - Alt & P/S $11.59 Thermostat - Regular $7.89 I know I need all this stuff, any new seals or gaskets? Like for the water pump maybe? I've got a Haynes manual, but is there a good online walkthrough with photos anywhere? I've been searching NAISOC and googling to no avail. Found a great one for turbo engines, but not mine (2.5L NA in a 2000 Outback). poo poo, this looks to be all the same parts and more for less, correct? http://www.timingbeltkit.com/servlet/the-720/timing-belt-subaru%2C-legacy/Detail EDIT: How in the hell is it cheaper to buy a new steering knuckle, ball joint, bearing, hub, and seals, than to have any of the shops I contacted replace just my bearing? I'm tempted to just do that, since the pinch bolt on the knuckle that's on there now is likely to shear before it comes out. pbpancho fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Apr 28, 2010 |
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Apr 28, 2010 21:59
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jamal posted:unless you want this to happen: Miss that driveway. Don't miss that weekend.
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Apr 29, 2010 01:53
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