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Zool posted:That's really interesting, because I'm the opposite. I do my best wheelies after I do a bunch of coke.
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# ? Apr 25, 2010 04:31 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 15:07 |
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Zool posted:I do my best wheelies after I do a bunch of coke. Can this be CA's tagline?
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# ? Apr 25, 2010 07:07 |
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Probably the same reason I ride slower at night - in the morning, you're awake, alert, and have snappy reflexes. When you've been up all day, you're tired, worn out, and moving slower. AKA yeah it's the cokenose
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# ? Apr 25, 2010 10:03 |
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My new DRZ has the 3x3 mod but was otherwise returned to stock by the PO. I'm considering doing an exhaust and a jet kit. I'm not really hurting for power at this point as this is my first bike - I'd just like something that sounds better than the stock pipe. Do I have options other than MRD/SSW (seems like clearly the best performance and price, but I'm a little worried about the noise doing all city driving as I hear it's ridiculously loud) or just leaving it stock? I've been looking at an FMF Q4 slip-on instead. Is that really going to be that much quieter than the MRD/SSW while still sounding badass, or should I just stick with the stock system if I'm at all worried about noise? Will that pipe, as a slip-on, do anything at all for performance or would I be just blowing all my money on the sound? Should I still bother getting a jet kit with the slip-on?
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# ? Apr 25, 2010 22:35 |
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Ive just removed the pipe on my BMW and gone back to stock. Loving the stealth sound of this exhaust. 86DB at 4000rpm. just awesome. feel like im riding an electric bike with the unique tingle sound from the BMW Rotax engine.
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# ? Apr 26, 2010 03:15 |
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Man_of_Teflon posted:My new DRZ has the 3x3 mod but was otherwise returned to stock by the PO. I'm considering doing an exhaust and a jet kit. I'm not really hurting for power at this point as this is my first bike - I'd just like something that sounds better than the stock pipe. Don't buy a slipon for the DRZ if you buy a pipe at all. The stock headers are hilariously restrictive, its one of the few bikes where switching out the full exhaust system can make a noticable difference. The slipon will do nothing but make your bike sound louder, and doesn't save that much money comparatively. Yoshimura also makes a few ok exhausts for the DRZ, though the MRD/SSW is supposed to be the best. Also, price per performance the FCR-39 carb is a much better deal.
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# ? Apr 26, 2010 18:57 |
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pr0zac posted:Don't buy a slipon for the DRZ if you buy a pipe at all. The stock headers are hilariously restrictive, its one of the few bikes where switching out the full exhaust system can make a noticable difference. The slipon will do nothing but make your bike sound louder, and doesn't save that much money comparatively. Yoshimura also makes a few ok exhausts for the DRZ, though the MRD/SSW is supposed to be the best. The only thing I'd add is that the E model has a much less restrictive header, so if you want more power with the same sound, an E model swap can open up a little more power. The flatslide is where it's at though, much better than an exhaust. Adds a nice intake noise too.
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# ? Apr 26, 2010 19:42 |
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Looks like I'll just leave it stock for now and when I really get the itch for noise/performance (and have more $$$) I'll just do the MRD/SSW + FCR at the same time.
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# ? Apr 26, 2010 21:14 |
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Looks like I'll just leave it stock for now and when I really get the itch for noise/performance (and have more $$$) I'll just do the MRD/SSW + FCR at the same time. It's like a brand new motorcycle. It's seriously absurd how much the flatslide improves things. Even with the stock exhaust.
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# ? Apr 26, 2010 21:54 |
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I aint lying when I tell people the flatslide is like an engine swap.
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# ? Apr 26, 2010 21:56 |
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I have another question now. I just cleaned and lubed my chain for the first time today. There are a couple small rust spots on a couple outside sides of a few links, and I found one link pair that was noticeably much less flexible. How quickly should I move to get a new chain? The rest of the chain looks great, is hella flexible etc. edit: looking at the pictures I took, dang it seems I did a crappy job of cleaning. I scrubbed the poo poo out of everything with a grunge brush using the thin lube I had as a cleaner, but there was a lot of hard thick dark almost tar like sludge on the chain. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Man_of_Teflon fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Apr 27, 2010 |
# ? Apr 27, 2010 01:29 |
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Keep an eye on that link, maybe hit it with some extra lube and try and get it to loosen back up. Probably a lost cause, and I'd replace the chain sooner rather than later.
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# ? Apr 27, 2010 04:32 |
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Doctor Zero posted:Why do they do that (put the foot out)? Here's some good basic supermoto riding technique explanation I found. Supermoto Canada posted:-If you just ride your 'motard on the road then you can simply ride it like any other bike, but if you want to get the most out of your bike, or you want to go racing, then there are some basic techniques that are worth practising. I made the switch on the track because the fast guys do it... and when I started giving it a try, it just felt so natural. You can really spring direction from side to side much faster without having to reposition your whole body. For long corners, knee out can still rule the day, but it's more fun to to and drag handlebars with your body supermoto style. It's just very fluid on a dirtbike. You don't support your weight or even drag your foot, it's just there to let you know when your sliding too much and need to bang it down to get your poo poo back under control. As well as that, when your sliding into/out of a corner, there's just something that feels so much more solid about having your foot out, body slightly upright, bike leaned like a son of a bitch under you. It just feels right on a supermoto. Also on a supermoto track thats really narrow and tight, where you want to put your knee very well might just be a tire or a hay stack that's marking the course. We still do knee out on long street corners, because if there's plenty of setup, it's still bad rear end good fun. If you watch the really fast guys though, foot out. Nikki says 'gently caress your leg out' Or ride it however you feel best about the pavement you are on. It's SuperMoto, nobody really gives a poo poo. We don't have a lot of rules. FlerpNerpin fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Apr 27, 2010 |
# ? Apr 27, 2010 15:39 |
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I took the DRZ to Talladega GP yesterday...so much fun. I stuck to riding it like a sport bike instead of like a dirt bike, now kind of wish I would have tried both. Didn't attempt sliding or any of that fancy stuff either. Once I figured out my lines I was closing on people very quickly...sadly couldn't pass in corners which meant I got to work on carrying speed through the corner so I could pass on corner exit. Also apparently a DRZ with flatsides and a full scorpion exhaust is really drat loud at high RPM. I was told by a few people that I had the loudest bike on the track and that it sounded great. Nothing like passing 600/750/1000cc sport bikes on a dirt bike.
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# ? Apr 27, 2010 16:36 |
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Spiffness posted:I've always loved this picture because its so drat obvious dude is crashing and just managed to push it back up with his leg. His body language screams "OOOOH FUUUUUUCK".
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# ? Apr 27, 2010 18:58 |
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pr0zac posted:I've always loved this picture because its so drat obvious dude is crashing and just managed to push it back up with his leg. His body language screams "OOOOH FUUUUUUCK". No, it's just that on reflection his lead filled gloves was a bad idea. HYUCK HYUCK HYUCK
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# ? Apr 27, 2010 19:00 |
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I want to give my street bike with motocross supension some more acceptable stiffness. Would race tech springs be worth a shot?
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# ? Apr 27, 2010 23:24 |
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:I want to give my street bike with motocross supension some more acceptable stiffness. Would race tech springs be worth a shot? Well, springs go hand in hand with valving. So you can swap out the springs but the valving may be wrong, causing issues with not being able to get the right amount of damping. But it's definitely a place to start, and racetech is a good resource for figuring out what stiffness springs you need...I'd look at what they recommend, see what stock is, and decide from there if you'd rather go with springs or revalving the bike.
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# ? Apr 27, 2010 23:54 |
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:I want to give my street bike with motocross supension some more acceptable stiffness. Would race tech springs be worth a shot? I read that as "rape tech" which I think means I'm a bad bad person.
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# ? Apr 27, 2010 23:59 |
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PadreScout posted:I read that as "rape tech" which I think means I'm a bad bad person. Thats a completely different, yet still spring and valve based company.
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# ? Apr 28, 2010 15:01 |
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Regeared the DRZ: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oonJC3vKhY Definitely doesn't wheelie as good now. But it handles normal riding type stuff pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EHFX3njytc I really need to tape over the mic to cut down on the wind noise, I just forget. All the drat time. Jharkov, I'm running 15/41 and it doesn't want to power up the front in first anymore. I think that 16/41 is going to kill any chance of wheelies in first without the clutch.
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# ? Apr 29, 2010 05:34 |
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Yep, i cant wheelie at all on it now. 16/40 on the freeway is decent. But having ridden the BMW to work now, the DRZ feels bad on the freeway no matter what. So i think im going to gear it back down.
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# ? Apr 29, 2010 07:19 |
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Z3n posted:I'm running 15/41 and it doesn't want to power up the front in first anymore. You're in luck, Spiffness is holding a wheelie seminar in early July.
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# ? Apr 29, 2010 15:00 |
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Jharkov posted:Yep, i cant wheelie at all on it now. Yeah, I need to figure out how my speedo is off due to the change in front wheel size, but there's definitely some thoughts a-brewin' about how exactly to handle the power deficit. I also think it may be burning oil, which means if I absolutely have to pull the top end to re-ring it, I may as well put a big bore kit in it. Could also just be single freeway-itis though. Any of the other DRZ owners have any problems with burning oil at freeway speeds?
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# ? Apr 29, 2010 16:39 |
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Z3n posted:Any of the other DRZ owners have any problems with burning oil at freeway speeds? Any thumper will consume oil at freeway speeds. My DRZ did it too.
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# ? Apr 29, 2010 19:30 |
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Phat_Albert posted:Any thumper will consume oil at freeway speeds. My DRZ did it too. How much did it burn roughly?
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# ? Apr 29, 2010 19:46 |
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Z3n posted:How much did it burn roughly? Hoestly, I dont remember exactly, as it was a while ago, but if I spent all day at highway speeds, you could see that it was low in the sight glass.
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# ? Apr 29, 2010 20:44 |
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Not sure whats up with your DRZs, but mine doesnt burn a drop. Been at the same level since 2000km ago, and thats plenty of highway. plenty of times ive had it cruising at 130KMH.
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 12:31 |
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I drove my DRZ around 220 miles home when I bought it and my oil levels didn't change either.
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 14:14 |
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You two are the exception to the rule then. Most any thumper will consume some oil at extended highway speeds. They probably just consumed so little that you didnt/couldnt notice.
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 14:49 |
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Did either of you guys do your break in personally? I'm wondering where big singles burn oil from, because my g/f rides hers on the freeway a lot as well, and it doesn't seem to be burning oil.
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 16:17 |
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Reading further on it suggests that its due to the rings? Apparently manufacturers are fixing it in newer engines. 09+ KLR's have different rings that stop the oil burning at high speeds. Maybe Suzuki did something similar during the life of the DRZ?
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 17:05 |
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Phat_Albert posted:Reading further on it suggests that its due to the rings? Apparently manufacturers are fixing it in newer engines. 09+ KLR's have different rings that stop the oil burning at high speeds. Maybe Suzuki did something similar during the life of the DRZ? She's got a big bore kit on hers, so I'm wondering if it's because of that. But yeah, that was my assumption too, because it seems like it's the only place that it could burn oil from where it'd happen only on the freeway. I'm curious as to if gearing it to 15/41 (stock sumo gearing) will fix it, because it was reving out pretty hard with 14/41. I know that Jharkov is running 16/41, so maybe that's got something to do with it too. G/f runs 15/41, so maybe the 14/41 just pushes it a little too high in the rev range at freeway speeds.
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 17:35 |
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Its very possible that the big bore kit uses whatever ring technology it is that allows for less/no oil burning. In fact I'd bet on it. All the more reason to get a big bore kit
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 19:34 |
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Mine's stock. Sounds like it probably was just so little I didn't notice.
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 20:54 |
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Huskys don't consume any oil...because you change it before it has a chance to.
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 21:44 |
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Gnaghi posted:Huskys don't consume any oil...because you change it before it has a chance to. More like "...because the connecting rod change interval is shorter than the oil change interval"
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 22:26 |
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Phat_Albert posted:More like "...because the connecting rod change interval is shorter than the oil change interval" First thing you ask if you are buying a used Husky: "Have you kept up with the engine changes?"
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# ? Apr 30, 2010 23:38 |
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i haven't had any oil burning on my 2007 klr. 33000 miles on it so far.
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# ? May 1, 2010 03:20 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 15:07 |
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my XR650R wouldn't burn any oil when i had it pinned WOT at 190KMH for about an hour on a boring straight highway in the middle of nowhere Same with my DR650. The only time my thumper has burnt oil was when the valve seals / rings were worn, on my last DRZ400. Typically DRZs that are burning oil have a dirt background, and have ingested dirt at some point.
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# ? May 1, 2010 05:02 |