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rubbersoul posted:also assorted other questions, what kind of brake pads do the rear emergency brakes take? Where can I get a new trunk lock? and how hard would it be to add cruise control to this beast? Might want to hit the pick n pull for a trunk lock, I've rekeyed 3 different glove box locks to fit my key but I don't know how hard that would be with the trunk lock.
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Apr 29, 2010 23:07
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And TheJeffers, if you're going to switch your 940 to 960 taillights, be prepared to stare at the bulb out light on your dash any time you hit the brakes or have the lights on. They use different bulbs and will confuse your car. If you find a solution to this, let me know. It's pretty annoying.
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Apr 29, 2010 23:17
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Wow, it's freaky how close our cars are, apart from the interior. I already posted these in the rides thread, but why not here as well:    I'm currently trying to strip my eggcrate grille back to the plastic, since I botched the paint job the first time I tried to redo it. It'll make its way onto the car eventually. I've already got the 960 tails on the car, but they don't trigger the bulb out indicator for me, for whatever reason. Is yours a 1991 or 1992?
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Apr 30, 2010 00:43
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MY VOLVO http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKOVF1qwPzI
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Apr 30, 2010 17:50
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TheJeffers posted:I've already got the 960 tails on the car, but they don't trigger the bulb out indicator for me, for whatever reason. Is yours a 1991 or 1992? Bulb out indicators usually work with some measure of resistance. Do the 960 tails use a different bulb? Bulk Vanderhuge posted:MY VOLVO That is my cars new permanent sound track.
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Apr 30, 2010 18:30
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As of this morning I am only down to one major issue with my 855!!! TAKE THAT, o2 SENSOR  !!! ...now about that cooling fan....
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Apr 30, 2010 18:49
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deratomicdog posted:Check for a clogged pcv valve (steam coming out of dipstick), that's normally what causes a bad rms. If it's a wagon, look for the tailgate rattle. Uhhh... that's probably it, really. Welp, I'm sold.
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Apr 30, 2010 19:09
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I guess this is Volvo related. In the UK we got new insurance groups at the start of the year. I only recently found out about this so I've been looking up the new ratings. It was on a 1-20 rating before, now it's 1-50 and supposedly most cars have just had their group double. Not mine. My S60 went from 14 to 35. That means it is now cheaper for me, a young man, to insure: Mazda RX-8 Alfa Romeo Brera VW Scirocco R Golf GTI 2004 Ford Focus RS Honda Civic Type R The smaller engined Porsche Boxster Now when I look at some of those cars, they strike me as exactly the sort of thing insurers wouldn't want me in. They're more powerful, they're flashier, they're way more likely to be driven aggressively and crashed than my S60. Yet here I am, getting charged £1300 (after shopping around) to insure a car I chose for being sensible and comfortable. And able to occasionally overtake people. And I got the smallest-engined S60 (albeit not the least powerful - even the 2.4D is more expensive than almost all on the list above). Oh and my father's Mercedes E-class estate? More expensive to insure than a goddamn Mitsubishi Evo X. I hate insurance.
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Apr 30, 2010 20:43
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Ok team let's work this one out together: I want to put this  (big rear end thule with claw feet) on top of this.  ('06 V50 with rails) Can/Should I use these cross bars (wing profile)?  Or do I have to use these with a boxier profile?  Also, can anyone provide feedback about vparts.dealerfit.com? I don't have any experience with them and didn't find them mentioned in the forums. I can't find anything on IPD and Thule wants waaaay too much for cross bars and feet. I'd appreciate any help you could offer. I don't want to drop +100$ only to trash my roof, thule and everything I own 
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Apr 30, 2010 22:31
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TheJeffers posted:I've already got the 960 tails on the car, but they don't trigger the bulb out indicator for me, for whatever reason. Is yours a 1991 or 1992? Mine is a 91 and I'm not sure what year the 960 lights are from. I can say that they have different casings and I couldn't just pull the light assembly from the oem lights and plug them directly into the new casings. And they used different sized bulbs, which was inconvenient. If I sell it, I'll probably put the old lights back on and include the 960 casings if they want to deal with it. Oh and the speedo has started acting up again. Probably just need to open the diff and clean it up, but I've got an extra cluster in case it's not the sender and I need to replace the stock speedo. edit Bulk Vanderhuge posted:MY VOLVO 212k on the odometer. A good video. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Apr 30, 2010 |
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Apr 30, 2010 22:38
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Cakefool posted:Welp, I'm sold.
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May 1, 2010 01:05
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What would cause the odometer on my 96 850 to just stop moving? Both the trip meter and the total meter, it doesn't even seem like they're trying to move. I know sort of exactly where it stopped, an area with really really lovely roads and some of the worst potholes I've hit in a while.
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May 1, 2010 05:06
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Sir Tonk posted:Oh and the speedo has started acting up again. Probably just need to open the diff and clean it up, but I've got an extra cluster in case it's not the sender and I need to replace the stock speedo. When my speedo went apeshit, it was actually the silicone wire-ends inside the plug at the dif that had rotted all to gently caress, and replacing them fixed everything. With this horrible rotten visual in mind I then replaced all the silicone wire-ends I could find in the rest of the plugs on the car, like the temperature sensor on the block, and found similar carnage at each one. They are supposed to be white, not brown or black, and if you poke them the silicone should resist, not let your probe in like you're sticking your dick in a wedge of gorgonzola.
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May 1, 2010 05:11
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NOTinuyasha posted:What would cause the odometer on my 96 850 to just stop moving? Both the trip meter and the total meter, it doesn't even seem like they're trying to move. I know sort of exactly where it stopped, an area with really really lovely roads and some of the worst potholes I've hit in a while. The odometer drive gear is probably cracked or broken or something, it happens a lot to 850s. You can get a replacement gear for about $30, replacing it isn't too terribly difficult. It's kind of a pain to get the dash apart but it gets faster after you do it once. Volvospeed has instructions on how to get to the gauge cluster, I'd find the link but I'm feeling kind of lazy.
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May 1, 2010 08:31
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JayKay posted:1998 S70 Base. Sorry, https://www.customers.volvocars.com/owners/docs/1998/1998_SV70/98sv70_000.htm From the audio section: quote:During this waiting period:
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May 1, 2010 08:47
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Looked out the window this morning and saw this. Volvo R-design wagons! They're multiplying!  
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May 1, 2010 10:37
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deratomicdog posted:That doesn't mean don't look for the usual stuff, that's pretty much all the 850 related stuff though. La la, not listening, he said they're great, brb with the first car I find 
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May 1, 2010 15:37
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Cakefool posted:La la, not listening, he said they're great, brb with the first car I find This is seriously what I did.... well the second 850 I found, but still. Moral of this story: I don't regret it? GO OUT THERE AND GET THAT VOLVO!! (and make sure its a wagon)
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May 1, 2010 17:59
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Sviatoslav posted:(and make sure its a wagon) That's a given. I've been battling with 
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May 1, 2010 23:35
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Cakefool posted:Hope this breaks my French car habit! Sacre Merd! Even if the 850 you buy is on fire, you won't regret it anymore than your other car purchases.
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May 2, 2010 07:33
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Sviatoslav posted:Sacre Merd! Well, anything I get has to rival the BX for comfort, the Xsara for 'loving refuse to die' the AX for easy-to-find-spares and the current 206 for practicality. Also, if it doesn't to the automotive equivalent of stabbing me in the balls (french build quality ) that'd be a bonus.
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May 2, 2010 11:27
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Tried to change the cam-belt on my '02 S40 1.8 GDI, was going well till it came to removing the bottom outer sprocket and it just wouldn't budge. I even made a holding tool, no joy, totally stuck. Any suggestions anyone? I can't really afford to pay a mechanic to do it, but it looks like my hand is being forced. The car is a pain to work on, little space, things in awkward places. I do love it though. Any advice or help is really appreciated.
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May 2, 2010 11:38
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Cakefool posted:Well, anything I get has to rival the BX Well I've sat in great many cars (though admittedly no Citroen's) spanning a great many years and my 850 is one of the most comfortable I've ever rested my rear end in... and I get to drive it every day. Refusal to die: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJgqvRidSBk&feature=related Parts are free a lot of the time, as long as you are nice to turbobrickers. And my 850 gets 30mpg. Also no ball stabbing!  Remember. First one you see. GO!
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May 2, 2010 18:25
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I got a problem. My 1992 740 wagon's brake lights aren't lightin'. They've got good ground all the way to the harness under the front door sill, and the switch on the brake pedal works and has power. Here's the diagram I've got to work with: Trouble is, this diagram (for a 1990) has a wire into the switch and a wire out, and my switch has a pair of wires on the out side, coming off the bottom of 3/9. One wire goes to B like in the diagram, but the other goes straight into a purple block that looks like a relay, with five (six?) wires in the plug, above and to the left of the brake pedal. Also, the first wire does not run to A from B, most of the wires from B (including the relevant one) join the main wire trunk that heads to the right toward the center of the dash. The next place I want to go is probably 7/1, the Bulb Out sensor, because fffffuck of course  barring a multiple failure (like the wire from the sensor to the lamp) I'm losing power between the brake pedal and the Bulb Out sensor or it would be lighting up. Okay, I had back-burnered that idea until I verified that the brake pedal position switch was actually working (no power at that switch would mean the Bulb Out sensor doesn't do anything because there's not supposed to be power to the lights) and then forgot about it.Where's the Bulb Out sensor actually located? The greenbook lists it as being in the rear of the car by the wheelwell, but my power line for the brake appears to go straight from the lamp to the front of the car. Also, any idea what the purple block is? More on this adventure as it develops! edit: so the one on the relay block in the center console: only Bulb Out sensor or front Bulb Out sensor? edit 2: Ssssson of a bitch. I have to have the wrong Yellow/Red, the one in the harness isn't the one at the lamp. The rear Bulb Out sensor lists Yellow/Red coming out to the lamp from the sensor, I have to have it wrong. Thanks for giving me a place to type my way through it, AI. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 01:48 on May 3, 2010 |
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May 3, 2010 01:09
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Well, if the bulb out sensor relay dies, one thing that can happen is brake light failure with no indication on the dash. I would change it out with a junkyard unit and see what happens. It's the large round relay in the main relay panel behind the ashtray/stereo. Try pulling a different bulb and see if the indicator tells you a bulb is out. If not then it's definitely a bad relay. Although, if it does indicate on the dash, I wouldn't rule out the relay. Edit: I never knew there was one in the rear of the car, I've never owned a 7 wagon. I just can't imagine the wiring being that different.
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May 3, 2010 07:38
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On a related note, the Bulb Out light on my other 740 is on all the time, even with all the lights off. 
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May 3, 2010 08:41
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I'm looking at a 96 850R on craigslist that is listed as good condition, HID 6000k headlights, 80% Goodyear f1's and new sparkplugs. Can I score it for $4k? Listed for $4600, Kbb price is $5k And if I can't, any other alternatives? Maybe an R model, something that's reliable (850 drive Volvo every day) and is also fun to drive. Also, do all the wagons make the beeping noise like when a truck backs up? My friend's Volvo wagons does that (not sure what model or year, sorry) Machine Gun fucked around with this message at 12:11 on May 3, 2010 |
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May 3, 2010 12:06
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The Mantis posted:Also, can anyone provide feedback about vparts.dealerfit.com? I don't have any experience with them and didn't find them mentioned in the forums. I can't find anything on IPD and Thule wants waaaay too much for cross bars and feet.
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May 3, 2010 14:49
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Best Friend posted:I'm looking at a 96 850R on craigslist that is listed as good condition, HID 6000k headlights, 80% Goodyear f1's and new sparkplugs. Can I score it for $4k? Listed for $4600, Kbb price is $5k On the first generation cars, the T5 models were nearly as fast as the R models, the Rs simply held peak boost for 30 additional seconds on full throttle accelleration. They also had special interiors and were lower. They were really fast, many people suggested they were underrated from the factory. Anyway, a T5 is far more common and an adequate substitute. In '98 there even were a lot of manual tranny T5 cars imported. The '98-'00 S and V 70 cars are just a facelifted 850 so include those in your shopping if you want. '98 is viewed as the peak in terms of features and reliability, as they went to drive by wire in '99. Best Friend posted:Also, do all the wagons make the beeping noise like when a truck backs up? My friend's Volvo wagons does that (not sure what model or year, sorry) No, that's an aftermarket kit. IPD used to sell one that plugged in to your reverse light socket, a previous owner might have thought that was cool.
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May 3, 2010 17:34
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LloydDobler posted:On the first generation cars, the T5 models were nearly as fast as the R models, the Rs simply held peak boost for 30 additional seconds on full throttle accelleration. They also had special interiors and were lower. They were really fast, many people suggested they were underrated from the factory. Anyway, a T5 is far more common and an adequate substitute. In '98 there even were a lot of manual tranny T5 cars imported. The '98-'00 S and V 70 cars are just a facelifted 850 so include those in your shopping if you want. '98 is viewed as the peak in terms of features and reliability, as they went to drive by wire in '99. It is cool. Found the one you're looking at; it's nice, and I do like the birch/tan interior even though everyone else thinks they're rear end-ugly. Email the guy and go find out what the mileage is; we can't tell you what it's worth without knowing that. However, regardless, I'd go check this one out too: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1719448786.html
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May 3, 2010 21:10
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as halfway crooks posted:It is cool. drat, thanks. That's pretty much exactly what I want, but I live in San Jose. Alameda is already a stretch for me. I guess I'll shoot the guy call the and get a friend to drive me out. T5 sedans seem to be pretty rare here but I found some promising S70's EDIT: poo poo, the red 850R got sold 
Machine Gun fucked around with this message at 00:18 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 3, 2010 21:35
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I'm pretty loopy from having four impacted wisdom teeth extracted, but I was wondering if anybody could tell me if I need to change my ignition coil if I'm moving from my old '84 ignition to EZK.
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May 3, 2010 21:51
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Xovaan posted:I'm pretty loopy from having four impacted wisdom teeth extracted, but I was wondering if anybody could tell me if I need to change my ignition coil if I'm moving from my old '84 ignition to EZK. Well, spark is always volatile towards the tension of the induction, so alternately I would think capacitance wise you could just cross check with congruent exception. Or maybe I don't know but loving with loopy people is fun.
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May 3, 2010 23:53
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Splitzwarf - I'll bet you one million dollars that it's your bulb out relay. Just grab a couple from LKQ, mine went out 3 weeks ago and I had the exact same symptoms.
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May 4, 2010 00:16
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Splizwarf posted:When my speedo went apeshit, it was actually the silicone wire-ends inside the plug at the dif that had rotted all to gently caress, and replacing them fixed everything. We checked that when I took it to the Volvo shop before I bought it. The speedo had died while it was sitting for a few months in front of the guy's house and started working after about forty miles of driving. It sat for a week while I was in California and basically did the same thing, so I'm guessing it's some sort of buildup in the diff. I need to change the fluid anyway, so I'll just check it out then. Splizwarf posted:On a related note, the Bulb Out light on my other 740 is on all the time, even with all the lights off. It'll burn out eventually.
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May 4, 2010 01:29
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Someone posted the V70 manual (i have a '98 XC) in .pdf form in the last thread but I lost my bookmark to it. It would be much appreciated if I could get a link to that again!
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May 4, 2010 01:52
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1998 v70 Owner's Manual: https://www.customers.volvocars.com/owners/docs/1998/1998_SV70/98sv70_000.htm Available from here: http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/community/Pages/yourvolvo.aspx which appears to offer a lot of other nice stuff as well, like a Maintenance Chart: https://www.customers.volvocars.com/owners/docs/1998/1998_maintenance/1998_all_maintenance.html and the complete specs at a glance: https://www.customers.volvocars.com/owners/docs/1998/1998_specs/1998_V70.html For every Volvo after 1964. In before LloydDobler 
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May 4, 2010 04:34
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Fucker.  Edit: Hey Jeffers, put that http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/community/pages/yourvolvo.aspx link in the OP. It's where any factory available information like owner's manuals and option sheets and poo poo are available on Volvo's US website. I'm tired of linking people directly. They have supporting documentation back to 1965, and owners manuals from 1976 onward. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 04:56 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 04:52
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Best Friend posted:drat, thanks. That's pretty much exactly what I want, but I live in San Jose. Alameda is already a stretch for me. I guess I'll shoot the guy call the and get a friend to drive me out. T5 sedans seem to be pretty rare here but I found some promising S70's For reference, I bought my 98 V70R with 123k miles for $5150..the dealership wanted 6k for it but with minor repairs needed, I talked them down...probably put about $400-500 into it so far for parts, fluid changes, etc.
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May 4, 2010 06:05
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So, this car with the currently-hosed brake lights. When I bought it, I asked for them to get it a new Virginia inspection sticker; I figured this would force them to correct anything life-threatening I'd missed on my go-over. I go in to lay down the cash and it's got a fresh inspection sticker with a reciept and everything, seems kosher. Everything wraps up, money changes hands and things are signed, and as I go to leave with my new car, he hands me the bulbs and sockets for the reverse lights.  Apparently they couldn't get the reverse lights to light up, so the fix was to remove the sockets, and then it passed inspection.  I put off figuring it out because, well, wiring. This brake issue has me wondering if I'm going to have reverse lights too if I replace the Bulb Out sensor. Except, if the Bulb Out sensor wasn't passing any current, why're the taillights that come on when the headlights are on still working? And hazards and rear fogs still work, too. gently caress, suddenly tomorrow is less cut-and-dried.
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May 4, 2010 08:10
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