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HPL posted:Why don't get you get a Leica R to Nikon adapter for the time being? I'm really only looking at about $200 to replace the body. That wouldn't usually be a problem, but I've had a lot of unexpected bills lately and I'd like very much not to throw the purchase on the credit card. Might be unavoidable, though. Ghost Edit: http://www.keh.com/camera/Leica-R-Camera-Bodies/1/sku-LR029990532400?r=FE
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Apr 29, 2010 20:59
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Leica R lenses are one of the worst for mirror interference on full-frame EOS bodies, if you're thinking about going that way. You can get an adapter, but you'll need to saw the bottom 3-5mm off the mirror if you go with a 5D/2 or 1Ds. I don't know about film EOS bodies but the interference is severe enough that it will probably be an issue as well. Unfortunate, because the EF mount is pretty much the most adaptable mount out there -- you can attach basically any kind of lens and still get infinity focus, with the only exceptions that I know of being Minolta and the various rangefinder lenses.
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Apr 30, 2010 01:40
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I decided to make a foray into film. The other day I picked up a Canon AE-1 Program with a 50 f/1.8 for $25 at work, a roll of Reala 100, and a coworker gave me 2 rolls of XP2. I'm going out to shoot the Reala tomorrow, and plan on pushing the XP2 to ISO 1600 and doing some shots at night. Since I plan on burning the XP2 pretty soon, and don't have the sanity to power through 3900 posts before then, I just want to some verification on the XP2's ability to be pushed to 1600 (I can only find one single shot of it at 1600 and it looks pretty good.) I also need a quick for-dummies explanation on pushing film (lab developing...I know, I know!). If I have it right, I meter, etc. for ISO 1600, and make sure to tell the lab to develop for ISO 1600, and that's it? Man, film is a whole different beast.
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Apr 30, 2010 02:24
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XP2 is a process C41 film, so you can get it developed at Walgreens or whatever. Unfortunately, minilabs most likely either won't push it, or won't know what pushing is. You can push C41, but pretty much only pro labs will do it, and the results (at least for color) aren't great. You'll want to tell them to push two stops. If you want B&W at ISO 1600, I'd suggest pretty much any normal B&W ISO 400 film except Fomapan. Faster films (like Delta/TMax 3200) will work too, but they're more expensive and not much better IMO.
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Apr 30, 2010 02:59
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With XP2 you don't really "push" it at all. It's actually so forgiving that you can shoot it around 100-800 and hand it in without asking it to be pushed and you still get usable results. But 1600? I don't think you will anything good from that. It's way better for overexposure than it is for underexposure. I found it looks really nice at 320. If you want to push film then either real black and white or slide film are your best options.
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Apr 30, 2010 03:52
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So I have been playing around with color negative film, and I am having trouble getting my raw files color corrected for the orange film mask. I use vuescan, and can calibrate for the mask, but the color correction gets only saved to my jpegs, while DNG files keep coming out blue. Any suggestions or tips?
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Apr 30, 2010 04:09
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Putrid Grin posted:So I have been playing around with color negative film, and I am having trouble getting my raw files color corrected for the orange film mask. I use vuescan, and can calibrate for the mask, but the color correction gets only saved to my jpegs, while DNG files keep coming out blue. Any suggestions or tips? I usually just scan the negatives as-is, then hit "auto level" in PSE.
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Apr 30, 2010 04:21
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McMadCow posted:I'm really only looking at about $200 to replace the body. That wouldn't usually be a problem, but I've had a lot of unexpected bills lately and I'd like very much not to throw the purchase on the credit card. Might be unavoidable, though. They make kits to convert Leica R lens to F mount that are kinda cheap. http://www.leitax.com/leica-lens-for-nikon-cameras.html That way you can use easier to find Nikon manual focus bodies.
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Apr 30, 2010 05:09
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FasterThanLight posted:XP2 is a process C41 film, so you can get it developed at Walgreens or whatever. Unfortunately, minilabs most likely either won't push it, or won't know what pushing is. You can push C41, but pretty much only pro labs will do it, and the results (at least for color) aren't great. You'll want to tell them to push two stops. I know our labs push film, at least for staff. I got the idea from some coworkers or regularly send underexposed XP2 through our labs. Also the XP2 was free so I figure I'll experiment with those two rolls at first. l33tc4k30fd00m posted:With XP2 you don't really "push" it at all. It's actually so forgiving that you can shoot it around 100-800 and hand it in without asking it to be pushed and you still get usable results. But 1600? I don't think you will anything good from that. I've heard the XP2 is nice at 1600, and the one shot I managed to find like that looked pretty nice. This is all experimentation on free rolls of film, so why not? I just want to make sure I give the lab guys the right info when I drop it off. As for slide film, there's a 15 day turnaround through the place I work at (we send it off to an associate store in the next province over, since nobody does non-C41 films in Alberta anymore) and that kinda sucks, but I'm willing to try. Like I said, this is my first attempt at film. I have some ideas for the few rolls I have now, but I definitely appreciate the suggestions. I'll look into some slide film. I think we carry all of the current Kodak slide films. I'm planning on picking up some Ektar 100 next week to try, so I'll grab some Kodachrome or Ektachrome or something.
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Apr 30, 2010 05:46
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Bloody August posted:I'll look into some slide film. I think we carry all of the current Kodak slide films. I'm planning on picking up some Ektar 100 next week to try, so I'll grab some Kodachrome or Ektachrome or something. Kodachrome isn't being made anymore, Dwayne's in Kansas is the only place in the world left processing it and you won't even be able to get it done there after December. Kind of depressing, I just saw two rolls of Kodachrome in 120 (discontinued in the 90's, probably still useable) go for like $10 on eBay because there's literally nowhere left you can get it processed; Dwayne's is only set up for 35mm. I just sent them two rolls, have two more left to go by the end of the year.
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Apr 30, 2010 05:58
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Chiming in to say that Ektar might be the naturally prettiest color neg film I've shot
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Apr 30, 2010 06:24
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HPL posted:I usually just scan the negatives as-is, then hit "auto level" in PSE. i fuckin hate you. doing this with a color chart or by eye is impossible, why didn't i do this?? h8
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Apr 30, 2010 06:38
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Bloody August posted:I've heard the XP2 is nice at 1600, and the one shot I managed to find like that looked pretty nice. This is all experimentation on free rolls of film, so why not? Oh well if you're getting it pushed for real then why not indeed. Actually my interest is piqued after having a look myself so I might give it a go, I love grainy black and white. As for other films, I also hear Ektar is good. I have a few rolls of it in my fridge that I'm saving for a rainy day, but I haven't tried any yet. Try Velvia (50 or 100 but not 100f), you might not be fond of oversaturation but it's a real thrill to look at slides on a light table. Otherwise Provia 400 is quite nice and pushes well. Possibly try cross processing too? A good way of checking out different films is doing a search on flickriver.com for that film (plus say xpro if you want to see cross processing or pushed 1600 for checking out pushed film and such). l33tc4k30fd00m fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Apr 30, 2010 |
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Apr 30, 2010 06:52
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8th-samurai posted:They make kits to convert Leica R lens to F mount that are kinda cheap. Wow, thanks for that link! Both of my lenses can be converted with their kit. That may be a good solution for me, since I have a couple of Nikon bodies and several local stores sell F3 as modular kits. Hmmm, got me thinking...
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Apr 30, 2010 07:23
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If anyone has any Pentax M42 lenses they want to get rid of PM or email me. My friend just gave me an old Spotmatic since my 35mm is busted. It is pretty rad, pretty much exactly the same as my AE-1. Also, I am almost done building my darkroom I will post pics soon 
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Apr 30, 2010 07:40
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Just ran my first roll of film (fomapan 100) through my new Rodinal (as R09 New), and I'm impressed. Can't wait to put some Tri-x through it.   The last one is resized from a crop of roughly %40 of the original frame, which was only a 1200dpi scan.
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Apr 30, 2010 08:18
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brad industry posted:If anyone has any Pentax M42 lenses they want to get rid of PM or email me. My friend just gave me an old Spotmatic since my 35mm is busted. It is pretty rad, pretty much exactly the same as my AE-1. If all else fails, get a Helios-44 off of eBay or something. Don't pay very much for it since they're extremely common.
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Apr 30, 2010 15:33
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My first SLR was a M42 Mamiya/Sekor. I could find those lenses in the bargain bin boxes at camera stores for $5 each. It was a terriffically clunky camera, but the lenses were actually pretty sharp.
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Apr 30, 2010 16:42
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Speaking of m42, are those lenses listed under pentax screwmount on keh?
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Apr 30, 2010 17:48
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HPL posted:If all else fails, get a Helios-44 off of eBay or something. Don't pay very much for it since they're extremely common. I love mine. Got a Helios for ten bucks with a free (and perfect) Zenit-B attached to it... it's oddly satisfying to use. Pictures turned out much better than I was expecting. Stregone posted:Speaking of m42, are those lenses listed under pentax screwmount on keh? Yes, but they don't have terribly many of the off-brand ones. There are absurdly large numbers of the other ones floating around out there. Some of the Mamiya/Sekor M42 lenses are supposedly quite nice. Reichstag posted:... rodinal stuff Rodinal + Agfa APX = unf unf unf Tri-X is okayish, a bit grainier than D-76, I didn't notice much else of a change though. It'll look like grape juice when you pour the rodinal back out, kinda jarring the first time that happens. APX, though, is absolutely wonderful with rodinal.
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Apr 30, 2010 18:21
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Stregone posted:Speaking of m42, are those lenses listed under pentax screwmount on keh? Should be, last I recall. I got a M42->PK adapter for my Pentax ME Super SE. It's a pretty good combo because you focus, stop down and click since it's auto exposure. You can even use it in sort of a program mode by stopping down until you get the shutter speed you want and then shooting.
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Apr 30, 2010 18:28
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Kodachrome isn't being made anymore, Dwayne's in Kansas is the only place in the world left processing it and you won't even be able to get it done there after December. Kind of depressing, I just saw two rolls of Kodachrome in 120 (discontinued in the 90's, probably still useable) go for like $10 on eBay because there's literally nowhere left you can get it processed; Dwayne's is only set up for 35mm. Really? We have a ton of Kodachrome 135 at work, and it's not even expired... 
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Apr 30, 2010 18:47
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Bloody August posted:Really? We have a ton of Kodachrome 135 at work, and it's not even expired...
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Apr 30, 2010 19:16
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Bloody August posted:Really? We have a ton of Kodachrome 135 at work, and it's not even expired...
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Apr 30, 2010 19:48
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Reichstag posted:How much are you charging per roll? I was gonna ask this.
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Apr 30, 2010 20:09
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I need to get my hands on some unexposed but developed E6 film. Would places that do in house E6 processing have snippets laying about(lead-in, unexposed frames, etc) that they would be willing to part with? Or would it be better to just take an unexposed roll in and get them to develop it but not mount it? I am going to be taking a couple of old digital cameras I have and replacing the anti IR filter in front of the CCDs with the E6 film, giving me a cheap near-IR camera to mess around with.
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Apr 30, 2010 20:22
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CaptBubba posted:I need to get my hands on some unexposed but developed E6 film. Would places that do in house E6 processing have snippets laying about(lead-in, unexposed frames, etc) that they would be willing to part with? Yes, their trash will be full of it.
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Apr 30, 2010 20:54
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Reichstag posted:Yes, their trash will be full of it. Awesome. Now I just need to ask around for someone who does in-house E6. That can't be too hard to find in the Alexandria/DC area.
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Apr 30, 2010 21:21
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Ok, do I need to worry about infinity focus with an EOS to m42 adapter? Or anything else to think about? Is AF confirm worth it? How about with an FD to m42 adapter?
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May 1, 2010 01:26
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CaptBubba posted:Awesome. Now I just need to ask around for someone who does in-house E6. That can't be too hard to find in the Alexandria/DC area. If you can't find anywhere, I can send you some if you pay a few bucks for shipping from the midwest. It will probably be provia
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May 1, 2010 01:49
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Reichstag posted:How much are you charging per roll? I don't remember, but I think it's around $10 or $11 CAD. We might even have it on our online store. I'll check when I'm in tomorrow.
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May 1, 2010 02:05
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I just found the best timer
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May 1, 2010 02:41
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Stregone posted:Ok, do I need to worry about infinity focus with an EOS to m42 adapter? Or anything else to think about? Is AF confirm worth it? How about with an FD to m42 adapter? Nope, not something you should worry about, because no EOS->M42 adapter will give you infinity focus (unless it has a teleconverter). FD to M42 won't work either. Look up the register distance for your camera. Anything longer than that can be adapted (given that there's room for the adapter). Anything shorter can't be. AF confirm is worth it, in my opinion, especially if you don't have a focusing screen designed for manual focusing.
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May 1, 2010 03:11
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I'm accumulating darkroom equipment in anticipation of one day having the space to set one up. Today a family friend gave me a box with all of his old darkroom equipment. Inside was a Durst 606 enlarger set up for 120 and 35mm, and a cibachrome printing kit!
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May 1, 2010 08:39
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Can some one tell me about the meter on my OM-1? If I use a 28mm lens, I can't really see it. Is this fixable with a different eye piece, or is it just an issue with any wide lens?
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May 1, 2010 17:04
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Associate Christ
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I just picked up a Minox ML for novelty/smugglability, looking forward to trying it out at a concert next week.
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May 1, 2010 17:35
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Kaluza-Klein posted:Can some one tell me about the meter on my OM-1? If I use a 28mm lens, I can't really see it. Is this fixable with a different eye piece, or is it just an issue with any wide lens? What the hell? The meter should be visible regardless of lens since it's in the viewfinder. Ric posted:I just picked up a Minox ML for novelty/smugglability, looking forward to trying it out at a concert next week. If you want a camera with smugglability, get an Olympus Stylus Epic. It's about as small as a 35mm camera can get, has fast autofocus and the door thing doesn't flap out like the Minox's does.
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May 1, 2010 18:00
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Paul MaudDib posted:Nope, not something you should worry about, because no EOS->M42 adapter will give you infinity focus (unless it has a teleconverter). FD to M42 won't work either. Hmm, I did a little research and everything I read said that infinity focus was possible with m42 lenses on an EOS camera, and that some adapters are actualy too thin and will allow you to focus past infinity.
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May 1, 2010 18:27
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Ric posted:I just picked up a Minox ML for novelty/smugglability, looking forward to trying it out at a concert next week. I just bought a Olympus XA-2 for the same reason. Can't wait to get it.
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May 1, 2010 18:31
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HPL posted:What the hell? The meter should be visible regardless of lens since it's in the viewfinder. Sorry, I did not describe the issue very well. With the wider lenses, I have trouble seeing the perimeter of the view finder image. Maybe because I am wearing glasses, and I can't have my eye right against the eye piece? It also tends to be quite dark around the edges, and unless I am in a very well lit area, I can't make out the meter. It sounds like this is more of a personal problem, but I was hoping there was an option for a different eye piece, or something like that.
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May 1, 2010 18:53
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