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SkunkDuster posted:You could use a bandsaw to rip it then clean up the edge with a plane. He's still going to need some soundproofing, even with the bandsaw being significantly quieter than a circular saw based tool. That being said, if you are going to go with a minimum of power tools, then ripping is the one task you don't want to be doing manually, and a bandsaw is a great rip machine, especially since you will have the handplanes needed to square and smooth the cut edge, and the skills to use them.
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Apr 27, 2010 17:45
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Yeah, ripping looks like the worst task ever to do manually. I'm kind of at the point that I may as well do everything manually though. SkunkDuster posted:You could use a bandsaw to rip it then clean up the edge with a plane. Though this may work if it's quiet enough. It's been a while since I've been around a bandsaw, so I don't know if it is. I suppose if it's too loud I can always take it back or resell it. Panzerschwein posted:Sounds like a great excuse for DIY soundproofing project. Which would be fine in the winter because the garage door would be closed, but I live in Georgia. It gets hot as balls here in the Summer, so the door would be open with a giant fan at the threshold (a fan is not a power tool). Seeing as I'll be doing all of my planing by hand, I take it I should invest in a good plane. GEMorris, you pointed out a Veritas Skew Block Plane. It looks pretty damned sweet, and I saw a couple of videos online of it in action. Now I want one too! I finally got my tax return, and have just gotten out of debt, so I'll have extra income every month now that used to be going toward insane interest. The question I have is, what should I splurge on and what's ok to be a little skimpy on when it comes to planes? If I were to guess, I could probably save a little on a jointer plane, but not on the more detailed ones? e: I have another question regarding planes. I've seen videos of people using push planes and pull (Japanese) planes. The push planes (even the good ones) seem to bind at times, causing the plane to hop, and the motion isn't always smooth. The pull planes don't seem to have this problem. What would be the benefit of a push plane over a pull? Could I pull a push plane? e2: Fixed link Boogabu fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Apr 27, 2010 |
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Apr 27, 2010 19:22
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Boogabu posted:The question I have is, what should I splurge on and what's ok to be a little skimpy on when it comes to planes? If I were to guess, I could probably save a little on a jointer plane, but not on the more detailed ones? Actually, the Jointer plane is the one to not skimp on. It needs to be flat, and can be hard to get flat if you dont have larger lapping/surface plates or a surface grinder. Here is an article that breaks down the basic functions of bench planes: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/understanding_bench_planes/ A few pages back I typed out a list of tools you need to get started using hand tools, go check it out. But I'll provide and even shorter list of absolute necessities here now. 1. Stanley No. 6 - Fore Plane, this is your first plane to hit the wood, it is for roughing work. You can make this plane serve double duty as a jointer if you have to. Undervalued because a certain influential resource on stanley planes does not care for them. Cost: $35 Personal Preference: I like "War Era" Stanley planes (type 16-17) because collectors don't typically care for them. They have heavier castings and are more durable. Most type 17's have a black cellulose based plastic knob instead of brass, these are generally loved less (and they are what I use). 2. Stanley No 3 or 4 - Smoothing Plane, this is what you use to clean up any (hopefully minimal) tearout left by your jointer, and to create a glassy smooth surface. No 4's are common, and a little cheaper. Cost $20-$25 (4) $25-$35 (3) 3. Block Plane(s) - Utility plane, you will use it everywhere, all the time. I'm not going to recite all of the potential good block planes made by stanley and others, there are just too many. There are two things to note: 1. Low angle vs. Regular Angle: One beds the blade at 12 deg, the other at 20 deg. Because a block plane has the bevel up, you can sharpen your blade at a steeper angle to make a low angle have the same attack angle as a regular angle, but then you are stuck switching blades out. 2. Adjustable mouth vs not: Adjustable mouth block planes are generally larger, but the adjustable mouth makes them more versatile. Preference: Even in a 'bare-bones' setup I say get a Regular Angle and a Low Angle block plane, preferrably both with adjustable mouths. If you wanted to get that skew rabbet block plane, and therefore have the ability to make rabbets, then substitute it for your low angle here. Cost: $10-$25 each Note: Millers Falls made excellent block planes, the No. 16 and 17 are regular angle, the No. 56 and 57 are low angle. Don't rule out "non-stanley" especially here. 4. Router Plane - Cleaning up mortises, cleaning up grooves, dadoing (after you saw a kerf), the router plane is incredibly versatile and useful. Many tasks that might normally "require" a more expensive specialty plane can be done, albeit a bit more slowly, with a router plane. Suggestion: Stanley No 71 or 71 1/2. The 71 has a few more bells and whistles, but costs more. Cost $20-$30 (71 1/2) $30-$50 (70, depending on no of blades/accessories) That's enough to get started, you will see based on what type of work you do what your next plane should be. If you do a lot of rebates/dados/grooves, you'll likely want a fillister plane like a Stanley No 46 ($100-$250 depending on completeness), if you do larger work you will likely want a proper jointer plane ($75-$200). If you are strapped for cash on the jointer plane, consider a stanley transitional. The wood sole is an advantage in that you CAN true it up if needed. Go find my older post for the other items and tools you will need. A reasonable set of chisels, at least one good mortising chisel, and a way to sharpen your blades should all be on your short list. First thing after that? Build some sawbenches followed by a workbench. Unfortunately I don't have any experience with Japanese planes, it is on my short list of things to learn about. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Apr 27, 2010 |
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Apr 27, 2010 21:35
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Wow thanks for the rundown. I'll find your first list. Thanks.GEMorris posted:First thing after that? Build some sawbenches followed by a workbench. I want to go and get stuff to do this now, at least the saw benches, but the sky looks like it's about to fall out. Last thing I want is a bunch of soggy wood to work with.
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Apr 27, 2010 21:59
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I've been wanting a block plane forever, but I always end up getting stuck between a really nice condition, old, Stanley 60 1/2 and something like the LN or LV adjustable mouth. Then I remember I don't have any of the sharpening paraphernalia for the planes I restored awhile back. One of them is going to need a new blade, probably go with a Hock I guess. And I STILL haven't gotten together a sharpening system for my lathe tools, I've been freehanding on my belt/disk sander which really doesn't work worth a gently caress. Lack of funds sucks.
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Apr 27, 2010 22:28
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ChaoticSeven posted:Then I remember I don't have any of the sharpening paraphernalia for the planes I restored awhile back. Rustle up an 8000 king waterstone (or norton if you are feeling fancy) and a side-clamp sharpening jig, and I will send you a maple plank with 20 (or 10 if I'm getting low on 20) micron diamond paste embedded in it and some additional paste for the cost of shipping. You cant go diamond->diamond because one will pollute the other, but I've had no problem going diamond->waterstone as the diamond grit is too big to get embedded in the fine waterstone. I despise the messiness of coarse waterstones, but fine ones don't cause near the mess. After trying it both ways, I can see no advantage to a "middle" grit. You can do 6 passes on a middle grit, then 6 on a fine, or you can do 12-14 on a fine and not have to worry about shuffling another stone around. The results were the same for me. I have a spare miller falls regular angle block plane for sale as well if anyone is interested.
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Apr 27, 2010 23:15
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SkunkDuster posted:The other "must have" book is Flexner's Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish. Okay so I am thinking about picking this up. Are there any other finishing books I should consider instead? I do a lot of work in MDF and this doesn't seem to cover any sort of MDF finishing tips. I know how to do that glue sealing trick with the 1:2 wood glue / water mixture brushed on the edges to "seal" it, but I still get semi-crappy results on the edges when I paint.
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Apr 27, 2010 23:23
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El_Matarife posted:Are there any other finishing books I should consider instead? It won't help you with MDF but it's arguably the best finishing book ever written.
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Apr 28, 2010 06:44
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I've tried plowing through the first 10 pages or so, so maybe Woodturning Chat shows up later. Sorry if this has already been covered, but: My father purchased a lathe a few months ago and has evidently been enjoying the hell out of it. However, he was bemoaning the low quality tools he was working with. He has some four-piece set with a gouge, a couple of scrapers, and a chisel that I think he picked up from Harbor Freight. I was hoping to get him a set of nice tools, but I have no idea about respected brands or prices. From my quick Internet sleuthing, it seems like there are two tiers, 1) eight-piece beginner sets that are around $99, and 2) individual tools around $80-100. Is that right? Is there something inbetween? Fake edit: well, it seems like there's a third tier of super cheap sets. I suspect that's what he currently has.
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Apr 28, 2010 18:48
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umbrage posted:2) individual tools around $80-100. Is that right? Is there something inbetween? Used older chisels for $30ish. Just like planes, best bang for your buck. If you dont want to gift a used item, I'd figure out what his favorite size gouge is and get him a nice one of those. I could be wrong but I don't think there is a whole lot of turning info in this thread. Some people do both, but it is amazing how little overlap there is between 'woodworkers' and 'woodturners' sometimes.
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Apr 28, 2010 21:16
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I've heard several times that sandpaper fixed to glass is a good sharpening technique. Google has led me to believe that this is a simple Fix Sandpaper To Glass, Sharpen, Change To Finer Grit, Repeat. Is there any more to it than that? Also, suppose I find an old plane. How do I tell (other than eyeballing it) if the sole is truly flat? If it isn't, who do I go see to get it ground? I've read that pits in the back of a blade is really bad. If it's not anywhere near the cutting edge, why is it a bad thing? I've been having a really hard time finding used tools. CL hasn't been much help for my area. eBay is okay, but I'd like to avoid shipping costs. The Rockler store isn't too far away, but drat, I'd like to keep from paying 'brand new' prices. The flea markets around here sell purses, boots and furniture - no tools so far, but hey, at least I'll have a place to sell some finished items if I get decent with this. Boogabu fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Apr 30, 2010 |
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Apr 30, 2010 03:09
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I am sorry to inform you that anything involving "sandpaper" is NOT a "sharpening" technique, but rather "Butchery of Blades" technique, or BOB, for short.
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Apr 30, 2010 03:14
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All you damned blade-huggers need to cool it. You're the exact opposite of a tree-hugger, but equally fanatical.
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Apr 30, 2010 03:35
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It's not like these are expensive.
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Apr 30, 2010 03:52
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Boogabu posted:I've heard several times that sandpaper fixed to glass is a good sharpening technique. Google has led me to believe that this is a simple Fix Sandpaper To Glass, Sharpen, Change To Finer Grit, Repeat. Is there any more to it than that? I'm not a fan of "scary sharp" method because over the long term it is more expensive than stones or diamond paste. Boogabu posted:Also, suppose I find an old plane. How do I tell (other than eyeballing it) if the sole is truly flat? If it isn't, who do I go see to get it ground? I've read that pits in the back of a blade is really bad. If it's not anywhere near the cutting edge, why is it a bad thing? The back of the blade forms one half of the cutting edge, the other half is formed by the bevel. Therefore pitting on the bevel side of the plane is of little worry, because it isn't forming part of the cutting edge. Pitting on the back however does, and should be avoided (or replace the blade with a hock blade for $35). See my link below for cheap starett "seconds" 12" rules. Good enough to tell you if you are looking at an "iron banana" or not. Boogabu posted:I've been having a really hard time finding used tools. CL hasn't been much help for my area. eBay is okay, but I'd like to avoid shipping costs. The Rockler store isn't too far away, but drat, I'd like to keep from paying 'brand new' prices. The flea markets around here sell purses, boots and furniture - no tools so far, but hey, at least I'll have a place to sell some finished items if I get decent with this. Find a more 'rural' flea market. Otherwise try ebay and the woodnet for sale forums, or one of the many tool dealers on the internet like Brass City Records & Tools (he updates on monday's, and many things get snatched up quick: http://www.brasscityrecords.com/toolworks/new%20tools.html
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Apr 30, 2010 04:19
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I didn't ask what your preference was when it came to sharpening methods, I asked if there was anything more to it than adhering a piece of sandpaper to a piece of glass. Morris gave an actual reason why he felt that it wasn't a good choice, and I agree with him in that it would be more expensive in the long run (kind of like a 'oh yeah, I hadn't though of that' moment). I'm curious as to why you think it would be butchering the blade though. I wouldn't be using it as my primary sharpening method, but for when I'd want a razor edge for finishing. About pitting... I figured it would end up making notches in the edge if it was close to the cutting edge because eventually they'd be the edge. I was thinking more of the back in general for some reason. Thanks for clearing that up. I've actually tried to call a couple of rural flea markets. The people who've actually answered have basically said, "I don't know if there are any tool booths," or, "I think we have one/a few," but all have said, "You'll just have to come by and see." I'm assuming just to try and generate sales. No. I don't want to drive 40 miles just to find out there aren't any booths that sell tools and have wasted half a tank of gas, tyvm. I'll check out your site suggestions though. Again, thanks.
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Apr 30, 2010 04:57
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Boogabu posted:I'm curious as to why you think it would be butchering the blade though. It does nothing different than using a stone. I've been using sandpaper on glass for years and it is cheap, simple and I don't have to worry about flattening the stones. It has the added bonus of making it fairly simple to flatten soles and chisel backs. I can make my chisels sharper than new razor blades. wormil fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Apr 30, 2010 |
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Apr 30, 2010 06:14
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Good to know I'm not the only one scratching my head as to why it's seen as butchering a blade. You're basically doing the exact same thing you would with a stone: Rubbing a piece of metal against an abrasive substance to get an edge. My question is still open though. Is there any more to it than simply putting sandpaper on glass and rubbing (side-to-side, from what I gather)?
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Apr 30, 2010 07:27
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Whats the diff between a regular spindle gouge and a bowl gouge?
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Apr 30, 2010 14:12
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As a user and fan of the "scary sharp" method, I'd love to hear any more actual thoughts and experiences with either or both methods. I apply the PSA paper that https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com sells to thick float glass. Combined with a Veritas sharpening guide, this has been an accurate, convenient, and highly repeatable method. With the full five steps, I have a loving 2-degree microbevel that looks as "optically flat" as anything I have capability of determining. Oh and they work well, too. GEMorris has a good point, and as soon as I leave NYC I'll probably get a fully proper water stone setup, but I might even keep the paper and glass. As wormil pointed out, the very-rough PSA paper on thick float glass has to be the least expensive lapping surface I can think of. None of my blades ever get dull enough to touch the 40mu paper (not the same as 40 grit sandpaper, by the way), so I'm happy to go pretty rough on the paper without worry. I've lapped two vintage #4's, and could probably drop my Bedrock 5C on there... maybe I'll do that tomorrow... But the point of me rehashing most of this is to ask what EXACTLY dv6 has a problem with?
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Apr 30, 2010 18:19
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Boogabu posted:My question is still open though. Is there any more to it than simply putting sandpaper on glass and rubbing (side-to-side, from what I gather)? Not really. I don't go side to side, I go forward and back. For my chisels I have a sharpening guide, plane blades I do by hand. There were a ton of messages on rec.woodworking debating the idea when it first became popular years ago and there are many web articles as well. fake edit: the wiki article links to one of the early rec.woodworking threads http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scary_sharp Boogabu posted:Also, suppose I find an old plane. How do I tell (other than eyeballing it) if the sole is truly flat? If it isn't, who do I go see to get it ground? Also it seems this part of your question got lost in the hubbub, you can use a straight edge to check the sole and if it isn't too bad you can flatten it using coarser sandpaper on glass. If it were so out of whack I had to have it ground I wouldn't buy it. You can actually just buy an inexpensive Stanley plane, flatten the sole, sharpen the blade and have a very functional tool. I flattened (from the rough) the top of my mahogany dining table with a cheap Stanley I bought from Lowes.  http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/The+Sole+Of+An+Old+Machine.aspx I don't bother with the feeler gauges.
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Apr 30, 2010 21:47
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GEMorris posted:Rustle up an 8000 king waterstone (or norton if you are feeling fancy) and a side-clamp sharpening jig, and I will send you a maple plank with 20 (or 10 if I'm getting low on 20) micron diamond paste embedded in it and some additional paste for the cost of shipping. You cant go diamond->diamond because one will pollute the other, but I've had no problem going diamond->waterstone as the diamond grit is too big to get embedded in the fine waterstone. I despise the messiness of coarse waterstones, but fine ones don't cause near the mess. Might take you up on the paste stuff, but what is the advantage of the maple board? Wouldn't it sorta dish out pretty quick? I mean it obviously works for you so I'm missing something. Here's a giant wicked huge clamp someone posted on Woodnet. I want one to hang in my house. 
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Apr 30, 2010 23:24
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umbrage posted:I've tried plowing through the first 10 pages or so, so maybe Woodturning Chat shows up later. Sorry if this has already been covered, but: I hope this isn't totally useless information to you, being that I am from the UK, but decent brands of tools (here) are Henry Taylor, Robert Sorby and Crown. I don't think sets are worth it, if he has been using the lathe for a few months now, he knows what he needs, so it is better to buy individual tools that suit that. Whatever you buy you should get HSS tools, not carbon steel, the edge will last much longer, be less likely to lose the temper if overheated and won't shatter. It also depends what he does, if he does spindle work a basic set of tools are a roughing gouge, parting tool, 1" and 1/2" skew chisel, 3/8" and 1/4" spindle gouge. For faceplate work (bowls etc) you want a 3/8" bowl gouge and scrapers, a square ended and round one. Something else to think about, if he is freehand sharpening, it is pretty hard to get a good single bevel on just about any tool, particularly gouges. It may be worth getting / making a sharpening jig or a full blown sharpening system, i.e. his tools may not be as bad as he thinks, he may not be sharpening them correctly. The sharpened surface must be a single angle, not multiple steps. Not An Anthem posted:Whats the diff between a regular spindle gouge and a bowl gouge? Traditionally spindle gouges were forged from flat stock, while bowl gouges were milled from a circular profile bar, they are both milled these days, however bowl gouges have a deeper flute, longer tang and are ground to a different profile. They are basically bigger and stronger because you end up hanging the tool a long way over the tool rest. The wings on a spindle gouge are usually swept back further, but that is really a matter of preference. icky fucked around with this message at 01:57 on May 1, 2010 |
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Apr 30, 2010 23:41
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ChaoticSeven posted:The dolly that thing is on...any idea where can I get one, or parts? I have one for my planer, but could sure use a couple more. It's the low wheels with the step-wheel that I'm after.
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Apr 30, 2010 23:54
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ChaoticSeven posted:Might take you up on the paste stuff, but what is the advantage of the maple board? Wouldn't it sorta dish out pretty quick? I mean it obviously works for you so I'm missing something. It doesn't dish, because the board isn't doing any of the abrading, it is just serving as a carrier block for the diamond particles in the paste. A waterstone is both the carrier block (the stone) and the abrasive material (the slurry that forms from moving the blade across the surface) so it develops a dish rather quickly. I only sharpen on the pull stroke on the maple/diamond board, so the board really isn't getting abraded (the diamond paste just gets pushed into the surface of the board and then sits there and abrades the blade). I suppose the wheel on my eclipse-style sharpening guide could eventually wear a dish in the board, but that has yet to happen to me. I also occasionally add some fresh diamond paste, and if the board is getting a bit swarfy I put a little 3-in-1 oil on it and lap a blade a few times and then wipe off the swarf that the oil picked up. Even with the occasional swarf cleaning (which sounds messier than it is), I still greatly prefer it to the mess of coarse waterstones.
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May 1, 2010 00:13
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Bad Munki posted:The dolly that thing is on...any idea where can I get one, or parts? I have one for my planer, but could sure use a couple more. It's the low wheels with the step-wheel that I'm after. Those are called mobile bases. Do a search on Amazon, Woodcraft and Rockler for them.
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May 1, 2010 00:56
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Sweet, thanks.
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May 1, 2010 03:29
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And Woodcraft has one on sale: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005331/10869/HTC-HD-Adjustable-Mobile-Base-HTC-3000.aspx?refcode=10IN05RL Are there any sale email lists I should be on besides Woodcraft and Rockler?
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May 1, 2010 07:16
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I hate eBay. And Home Depot. gently caress Home Depot. I'm boycotting your asses for life. So after two weeks of looking for used tools, I learned that I must really suck at eBay because I have placed about 20 bids and have not won a single item. I said to hell with it, and decided on at least getting some starter items while I look for decent used stuff to expand my collection with. A Google search away, I found that I had two woodworking places near me. Rockler and Highland Hardware. Rockler, being a national chain, was my first stop. The store was pretty cool, and they had a bunch of stuff. I picked up a Stanley #4, some chisels, a rule, clamps, and other misc. items. The Stanley was $70 - not horrible for brand new I suppose. What they didn't have, unfortunately, were braces and auger bits. The gentleman there said Home Depot would probably have them, so I hit them up on the way back home. I checked out the tool section and didn't find a brace or auger bits. The bits I found were 'wood bore' bits, and looked similar, but you could tell they were for a press. I asked the greeter girl if she could find me the tool guy, but she insisted that I tell her what I needed in case she could help. After asking her if they carried braces, and confusing the gently caress out of her because she couldn't understand that I didn't want a clamp, she finally calls the tool guy on her little walkie talkie. Sweet, finally someone who knows something about tools! The guy walks up.  Hey, I'm looking for a brace and some auger bits. *walks me over to the tools* What you need bits for? What you drill? Auger bits. You know, to cut like a mortise. You cut mortar? Like concrete? No dude, wood. Here, these work. *hands me a pack of standard drill bits and walks off* They did have an Irving dovetail saw for like $8, which I bought, and I had forgotten glue, so I got some of that. I ended up going into midtown to Highland Hardware for the brace and holy crap did they have EVERYTHING you could ever want. Their planes were a little on the high side, but it was cool to see so many tools in one place, and employees who weren't idiots. The place was kind of crowded because there were some demos going on, so I ended up asking the finishing guy if they carried braces and augers, and he took me right to them!  I got a pretty good deal on the brace and bits, so I decided to get enough wood to build a saw bench. Back at Home Depot, I was picking through some rough looking pine when an employee asked me what I was building. Oh just a saw bench. Oh you don't want to use any of that! That's pretty much scrap. Poplar is a popular choice, come here I'll show you where it is. *kind of dumbfounded, but heard that poplar was used for furniture where it would be hidden* Here we are! Um, thanks.The sicker said $5.34, so I didn't really complain. I only realized at checkout that the price was PER loving FOOT.  I left, leaving the pimple faced cashier with his hand out expecting a payment of $131. Went to Lowes, asked the wood guy there if pine would be an okay choice for a saw bench.  Oh yeah, you don't need anything expensive for that - pine should work just fine. Is it going to be outside at all? Nope, just my garage. Cool. Just checking. You'll be fine with untreated pine. There's some S4S over there. You just want to make sure you get a clean piece without too many knots so it's easy to work with. My total came to $23. e: I was too tired to do any serious work tonight, but I tried out the plane and brace... The plane works awesome! I probably need to adjust it a small bit (it's trying to grab too much wood, making it a tad difficult to push), but the brace and bit - with a tiny amount of elbow grease - bore a 1/2 inch hole as fast as I could accurately do one with a cordless drill. <3 Boogabu fucked around with this message at 00:51 on May 3, 2010 |
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May 2, 2010 03:20
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I certainly wouldn't go to Home Depot with any expectation of knowledgeable employees, but the chain itself, at least in my area, is pretty indispensable.
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May 3, 2010 03:06
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You got lucky with the stanley plane, their new stuff tends to be total garbage. If it turns out that you can't adjust it to take a fine shaving you may want to take it back. $80 is at least a decently tuned used #6 and #4. Did you check the woodnet forums? There are guys on there that scrounge from flea markets and clean up and fettle the planes they find and flip them for a small profit. Here's a guy with a nice #4c for $45 shipped http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=4860558&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o= And a guy with a #4 and #5, both wartime planes (personal fav) for $75 plus shipping http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=4859887&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o= #5 for $40 plus shipping http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=4846270&page=9&view=collapsed&sb=5&o= I don't go to any retail store for the tools I need. eBay, flea markets, leevalley.com and toolsforworkingwood.com pretty much serve my needs. You still got ripped on the s4s pine. You want SYP construction lumber. A 2"x12"x10' board should be around $11. SYP means Southern Yellow Pine. You don't want "whitewood" or SPF (Spruce/Pine/Fir). What you got will likely work just fine, but there's no need to pay Lowes for 'value-add' services like planing once you get a set of bench planes. Don't ask anyone at a home hardware store for help if handtools are involved, they just don't know. I'll bet every drat one of them thought you wanted to make sawhorses instead of a sawbench if you didn't have printed plans with you. Woodnet/SMC handtool forums and Christopher Schwarz' blog are the places to get info/advice. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 03:55 on May 3, 2010 |
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May 3, 2010 03:12
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Apparently I'm a posting noob
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May 3, 2010 03:13
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Well I did get two 2x8x12's and a 2x4... :P That's concerning about the plane. It was kind of finicky at first to get the blade to sit flush, but I figured out that I had to hold the blade and chipper in place while I clamped it down. I can take a pretty fine shaving with it. Patience is one of those virtues I never seemed to be able to exercise well... Though I got what I needed to get started. Hopefully when my next paycheck rolls around, I can find some sweet deals like those.
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May 3, 2010 15:32
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Really, really stupid sharpening question. I picked up a set of three ceramic Spyderco sharpening stones and a Veritas honing guide to sharpen my chisels and plane blades and whatnot. The instructions that came with the stones say to clean them with an abrasive powder like Ajax and a green scouring pad. OK, easy enough. I managed to sharpen my first chisel and started on my second when I noticed that it wasn't sharpening as fast on the 600 grit stone. I cleaned all three stones, then started sharpening again. Got to the third chisel and again, the 600 grit stone wasn't cutting worth a poo poo. Cleaned it again, and I could still see residue all over it. I looked at the Ajax bottle and noticed that it's "non-scratch". Just my loving luck. I went back to the store and bought some no-name powder, but that's not working either (even though it doesn't say non-scratch on the label). Any ideas as to what I can buy to clean these stupid stones that will actually work? EDIT: Actually, I have some Mr. Clean magic erasers...would one of those do the trick without screwing up the stone? Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 00:49 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 00:31
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Boogeyman posted:Really, really stupid sharpening question. I picked up a set of three ceramic Spyderco sharpening stones and a Veritas honing guide to sharpen my chisels and plane blades and whatnot. The instructions that came with the stones say to clean them with an abrasive powder like Ajax and a green scouring pad. OK, easy enough. I just rinse my sharpening stones under running water, and flatten them on each other (just rub two together and you'll end up with a flat surface on both. This is waterstones I am speaking of, so if these are some fancy ceramic newfangledness then I'm of no help.
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May 4, 2010 01:47
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Any personal recommendations on a cut list program? I'm going to try the Cutlist Plus demo but I know there are others out there. Just wondering if anyone here has used them. edit: after trying the demo it is easy to use and does exactly what I want. wormil fucked around with this message at 05:18 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 04:52
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Boogabu posted:And Home Depot. gently caress Home Depot. I'm boycotting your asses for life. I've never had a good experience at Home Depot. They either don't carry what I need, or the store just sucks. Last time I went there looking for MDF, and the sheets they did have were too big to fit in my car. And upon walking by the cutting area they had a big sign that says "We do not cut MDF, metal, or.. [anything else you need done. We are bad at our jobs, etc.]". Totally understandable, but blah. Also, that last part MIIIIIGHT be an embellishment. Maybe. Went directly across the street to Lowes and cautiously asked if they cut MDF. Guy looked at me kind of funny as if they did it all the time, and then nodded. Huzzah to Lowes. I still have Lowes cut my sheets since it's less wear on my blades. Especially MDF. =X Can't help but feel less manly by having someone else doing my cutting, though. =\
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May 4, 2010 10:27
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Nothing wrong with having them cut it for you, but I always end up cutting it again, anyway. They're actually pretty good most of the time, but I'm in the habit of having them cut wide and then I size it down when I get home, just to be safe. I also have more luck at Home Depot than Lowes, but I think it's really based on the size of the store. We actually have two in town, the Home Depot that's next to my house (naturally) doesn't have that much, but the "Super Centre" one across town is actually pretty decent for board selection, at least for cheap stuff. My last project was cutting and finishing some thresholds for my newly-remodelled kitchen; I used some cheap poplar from HD and it worked fine. I also find Lowes' layout to be completely unintuitive, but that may just be because I'm used to HD, idk. On a completely unrelated note- anyone have a good site / hidden gem for free plans? Googling turns up some stuff, but not a whole lot. I'm going to be building a picnic table / deck furniture next, I think.
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May 4, 2010 15:55
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GEMorris posted:I just rinse my sharpening stones under running water, and flatten them on each other (just rub two together and you'll end up with a flat surface on both. Yeah, these are ceramic. The instructions say that the 600 grit stone will eventually wear with heavy use, but the 1800 and 2000 grit stones should last indefinitely. I know for sure that I'm not supposed to be rubbing them together. I guess a better way to describe it is "clogged", like the metal particles got down into the stone and can't be scrubbed off with those pansy rear end "no scratch" powders I managed to buy. I need something that's more abrasive, but not abrasive enough to wear away at the stone. EDIT: Actually, if anyone was wondering, they do a fantastic job. The chisels I've been sharpening are a cheap set of three that I got from Lowe's for like $15. They weren't worth a poo poo when I first used them, but after using the Veritas guide and the stones to sharpen them (and add a microbevel), they cut wood like butter. I'm sure that using the guide makes me a big pussy, but I wanted to make sure I was doing it right. Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 18:39 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 18:35
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| # ? May 15, 2024 20:40 |
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What do you guys think a 6-year-old Skilsaw HD77 7-1/4" that's in good condition is worth?
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May 4, 2010 22:35
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