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pbpancho posted:EDIT: How in the hell is it cheaper to buy a new steering knuckle, ball joint, bearing, hub, and seals, than to have any of the shops I contacted replace just my bearing? I'm tempted to just do that, since the pinch bolt on the knuckle that's on there now is likely to shear before it comes out. Because mechanics are horrible monsters that like to charge money to cover their costs of maintaining a garage, keeping an appropriate set of tools on hand, and knowing how to do that type of job quickly and efficiently.
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Apr 29, 2010 04:20
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ab0z posted:Because mechanics are horrible monsters that like to charge money to cover their costs of maintaining a garage, keeping an appropriate set of tools on hand, and knowing how to do that type of job quickly and efficiently. I'm not complaining about the mechanics cost, I was just suprised that it's significantly cheaper to buy a ton of new parts than to just replace 1 part. Just seemed inefficient I guess.
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Apr 29, 2010 06:19
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  Time for a little power upgrade to my 07 Forester XT. I already addressed the suspension 2 years ago with a set of coilovers + STI rear sway. Power-wise its nearly stock, only "mod" is a 3 inch catback exhaust to give it that nice boxer rumble. Might be worth 10hp but that wasn't the point of getting it. What's going on this week: - 07 STI steering rack with only 2k miles + Whiteline steering rack bushings. Not a power mod but a handling mod. XT steering rack ratio is terribly slow, I have to go hand over hand through autox slaloms. This will really liven up the steering response, since its all apart I'm upgrading the bushings. - Cobb 3 inch DP, they may cost more but you never have to worry if its going to fit or not match up to other parts. I'll have a full 3 inch turboback with the addition of this piece. - 08 STI TMIC. The largest TMIC ever to make its way here. Same size as the JDM units Spec C IIRC. Comes off an STI that was heavily modified the same month it was purchased. - 08 STI VF48 turbo, again coming off a low mileage 08 STI. Have to love power hungry STI owners as a source of cheap OEM fitting parts. I would never dream of ponying up $800+ for a turbo. - Assorted sythetic fluids, OEM filters and gaskets. - Protune from our local tuner. I'm going with a 91 octane tune as I don't need the hassle of finding 93 octance fuel for an extra 20hp. All this should net me somewhere between 300-330hp/torques, plenty more than necessary as the XT was never slow to begin with. Funny how this all started off as a plan to get tuned simply to smooth out the power delivery which is peaky from the factory. I kept coming across the power parts slowly over time and wound up with a nice Stage 3 setup. I'm very interested to see what this does for me at autox and track day events.
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May 2, 2010 03:08
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Man I usually try to ignore it, but "torques" is not a unit of measurement. You mean pound feet or foot pounds. Anyway, what camera mount are you using there? Let me know how the steering rack is, I can tell you the stock '99 rack is just awful.
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May 2, 2010 05:13
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CharlesM posted:Man I usually try to ignore it, but "torques" is not a unit of measurement. You mean pound feet or foot pounds. You mean Nm, ft/lb doesnt exist in sane countries 
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May 2, 2010 09:14
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Screw health care reform, where the hell is the metric system??? 
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May 2, 2010 09:29
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CharlesM posted:Man I usually try to ignore it, but "torques" is not a unit of measurement. You mean pound feet or foot pounds. I kid, torques is a Top Gear thing. We use ft/lbs here, one of the few imperial hold outs in otherwise metric country. The camera is a GoPro, good video but eats batteries like a pig and only takes 2gig cards (sees all larger cards as 2gig). They claim 2hrs but my experience even with rechargeables has been 30 mins. The interface is atrocious and its not always obvious to everyone that its recording. I've also owned a Contour HD which is much more user friendly, slide on slide off. Video quality is good , sound quality with any wind noise is pathetic crackling (I use a seperate digital audio recorder). Built in battery lasts much longer. Gopro: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZYC5ZcVl0U http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSzy9M_6P8k ContourHD http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iBrfso3NPQ The steering rack mod will be night and day. Plenty of other Forester guys have done it and love it. First time I took a friend's STI out on the autox I spun it on the slalom because I gave it steering inputs like I was driving a Forester. He then took the Forester out for a run and nearly missed the first gate because it takes way more steering input to do anything. Me-262 fucked around with this message at 13:24 on May 2, 2010 |
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May 2, 2010 13:17
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Anybody with a GC8 coupe want this 'stealth' subwoofer enclosure I made? I made 2 of them with the intent of selling the second, but never did. It's anyone's for the cost of materials (about $30) + shipping. It fits behind the rear 'door card' on the passenger side. It weighs about 5.5 lbs, has about 0.30 cubic feet of volume, will take an 8" sub with a mounting depth of <4.5". It's made of trupan ultralight 1/2" mdf. It probably requires a bit of modification of the door card because the sub sticks out a bit, but I can recess the sub a little bit so it doesn't stick out so much. pics:  Click here for the full 1152x864 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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May 2, 2010 14:24
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So, new (old) subaru, new problems. Looks like I got myself a somewhat squeaky throwout bearing, that only manifests itself when the weather is cold or moist, or both. Shouldn't be all that difficult to do when I do the inevitable engine pull to replace the gaskets this summer, right?
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May 4, 2010 07:25
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yeah the engine or trans have to come out. you take the old one off and put the new one in. you might also want to do the pilot bearing as I think that's what was actually making all the noise on my car.
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May 4, 2010 07:34
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My left front wiper keeps clunking when it reaches the top of its stroke. It's kind of annoying. Does it just need greasing or something, or should I buy new wiper blades and check the spring tension?
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May 4, 2010 16:08
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So this is what I am doing to my STI for poo poo and giggles next - I did 1:17.8 around Wakefield Park with rally suspension, Kuhmo road tyres and the restrictor on and full gravel trim. poo poo it handled bad but hey dirt car! 1) Ripping out the restrictor, retuning. This thing already has an upgraed inlet and big mother 3" TBE so I I'm looking for better than the 300 hp standard rather than the 200hp I probably have now. I'm running a VF35. 2) Ripping out the suspension and repalcing with standard STI - it GOT to be an improvement over the rally DMS! 3) It will need a bigger bar for this so in goes standard STI bars. 4) Pulling the rally armour off. 25kg of sump guard comes off, flaps come off, undershields are due for patching so they come off too. Passenger seat comes out and rally computer coems out. So when you consider that I have spare tyre, co-driver, tyre changing equipment and tools in a rally I'll be close to 150 kgs LESS than my last event in racing trim. Plus I'm looking burn a few more kgs off myself. 5) One of the things that I really enjoyed doing to the VR4 was weight hunting - cutting and removing all the bits that made the car heavier and I got nearly 8-kgs out of the car from it's first event. The STI is somewhat harder to do that to but I'll go look. I think the still remaining ABS block and pumps are the first target - however the difference between a luxo barge and a already stripped out shell from the factory makes this more difficult to find good amounts of weight to be rid of. 6) Brakes get a going over with new DS3000 pads on the front to finally match the DBA5000 rotors on the front. Change the rear to DBA 4000's and DS 2500 pads. One of the guys in the office runs 1:12 in his full sik S15 200SX so I'm out to beat him - surely the powerup is going to go a long way in achieving that
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May 5, 2010 11:36
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This is kinda neat: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110527740468 If only it were street legal for MA...
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May 5, 2010 22:02
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kimbo305 posted:This is kinda neat: Located in my state. It was on craigslist a while ago, guess he didn't find a buyer on there. A couple of guys up here are working on those swaps. One guy had an outback sport with the 3.3 at a rallycross and man did that thing haul rear end.
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May 6, 2010 15:39
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Slow is Fast posted:Located in my state. It was on craigslist a while ago, guess he didn't find a buyer on there. A couple of guys up here are working on those swaps. One guy had an outback sport with the 3.3 at a rallycross and man did that thing haul rear end. I also heard that you lose ABS and AC since those bits no longer actually fit in the engine bay. That's not such a big deal if you're rallyin'. I bet it sounds incredible, all the H6s sound like Porsches with 
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May 6, 2010 17:19
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I dunno why he is including a Legacy trans but didn't swap it in in the first place over the 1.8L tranny.
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May 6, 2010 17:41
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OWLS! posted:Looks like I got myself a somewhat squeaky throwout bearing, that only manifests itself when the weather is cold... The dealer doesn't give loaners anymore but Subaru will cover the cost of a rental. So I ended up with a Yaris hatch. What a piece of poo poo. It doesn't have power anything and when you hand crank the windows down your hand hits the inner door handle on every revolution.
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May 6, 2010 21:17
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I'm experiencing a lot of vibration in my car when I've got the air conditioner on and I'm sitting at a light; it feels like the idle keeps dropping repeatedly and then spinning back up and making a general racket of itself. From what I can see, a dirty IACV is to blame for a lot of Subarus, but my car (06 WRX) is drive by wire. Is there still an IACV for a drive by wire car, or is it just some line of code in the ECU and my problem lies elsewhere?
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May 6, 2010 22:46
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Crosspost from the Craigslist thread. You guys have to check this out: http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/1727784913.html
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May 7, 2010 00:42
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Did old Subies chew through valves or something?
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May 7, 2010 01:18
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Cuntpunch posted:Did old Subies chew through valves or something? They may be hardened valves for the switchover to unleaded gas in the 70s.
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May 7, 2010 04:32
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Anyone that like SVX's needs to check this video out http://vimeo.com/11592042 gently caress it, anyone that likes Subarus. It's got ITB's, STI 6 speed and... ummm... if I'm postig it, no prizes for what it's doing
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May 9, 2010 11:47
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Recommend me an engine for my 86 XT Turbo! It has a 70k mile EA82t which makes decent power and 25 mpg, but I want a more modern OBD-II Subaru engine for better reliability, mpg and power. I have access to a CNC plasma cutter & machine shop goodies to fabricate mounts and an adapter plate. Since I put 10k miles on my XT per year, +10mpg would be a good improvement. The EA82t has a poor head design and small cooling system in the XT, and they just plain blow up sometimes. EJ22 swaps have been done into this model, some people have put EJ33's into XT6 models since the radiator support allows for more room. It looks like I can pick up a low mile but dented EJ22 1999 Impreza for $500. An EJ18 would net an easy 40 mpg with the XT body and return similar power as stock, or I could use the LOL HEADGASKETS EJ25. Or turbo models? I would at least need a new rear-end, 5-lug swap and brakes from an XT6, EJ transmission if I were going much above stock power.
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May 10, 2010 20:54
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I'm doing the timing service on my 95 impreza. (1.8L) My friend is telling me that I need to replace the tensioner adjuster. Do I? The chilton manual says to compress it with a vise and pin it back for reinstallation, not replace it. Is that correct? do they go bad often?
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May 13, 2010 05:31
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To all you STi owners: whatever you do, do not break your clock spring! I recently broke mine and bought a brand new one. My dccd was still in limp mode. Tried absolutely everything. Turns out you also need to replace the steering angle sensor. I just have no idea why that would go bad when it only consists of 2 gears and some electronics. I'm just happy I got my Tarmac 2s in! Can't wait for autox this weekend; yay.
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May 13, 2010 20:42
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ab0z posted:My friend is telling me that I need to replace the tensioner adjuster. Do I? flu1d posted:To all you STi owners: whatever you do, do not break your clock spring! I recently broke mine and bought a brand new one.
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May 13, 2010 20:46
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tensioner *adjuster*. Ok I just talked to a subaru-only shop owner, he says yes replace the adjuster because when re compressed they may leak the hydraulic fluid around the seal. ab0z fucked around with this message at 21:13 on May 13, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 21:07
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ab0z posted:tensioner *adjuster*.
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May 14, 2010 04:05
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I replaced the tensioner when I did a timing belt last because its one of those parts that you really don't want to wear out.
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May 14, 2010 04:15
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I like to do the idlers, tensioner and water pump. At least one of those things will fail before the next timing belt service.
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May 14, 2010 04:42
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Further clarification, after talking to the local subaru dealer service dept it sounds like shortly after my model year (95) they started making a tensioner ASSEMBLY that have the tensioner PULLEY and ADJUSTER in one part. I am going to spend the $100 or so and get a new adjuster. at my mileage (250,000), the timing service SHOULD have been done 3 times already, so reusing (I assume the adjuster has not been replaced ever) it again seems like an invitation to disaster. Also thank you for the reference to the factory service manual, I was wondering what the official procedure was. I don't really *trust* chilton 100%. Also to be clear, I bought a timing service KIT, that includes the belt and every pulley and idler. I also am replacing the water pump. The question of the tensioner ADJUSTER reuse came up when I read the procedure in the book, which said to reuse it and my friend said NOT to.
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May 14, 2010 04:45
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ab0z posted:Further clarification, after talking to the local subaru dealer service dept it sounds like shortly after my model year (95) they started making a tensioner ASSEMBLY that have the tensioner PULLEY and ADJUSTER in one part.
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May 14, 2010 05:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Now it makes sense. I hadn't heard of an EJ engine that had the tensioner pulley and adjuster separately. Sorry if I gave you any headaches. haha no worries, my brain sighed in relief when they told me that, it made so much more sense suddenly.
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May 14, 2010 05:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm experiencing a lot of vibration in my car when I've got the air conditioner on and I'm sitting at a light; it feels like the idle keeps dropping repeatedly and then spinning back up and making a general racket of itself. From what I can see, a dirty IACV is to blame for a lot of Subarus, but my car (06 WRX) is drive by wire. Is there still an IACV for a drive by wire car, or is it just some line of code in the ECU and my problem lies elsewhere? I have the original A/F sensor in the bag of parts I got along with the car. Any further insights into my low idle?
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May 14, 2010 16:10
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To all you subu-guru's I ask your opinion of this 2003 wrx I am considering buying. There isn't much on the listing, but I was hoping someone might be able to find some red flags from the pictures. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...captcha=success Kbb lists it for like $11600 in excellent, is it feasible to talk the dealer down to less than $11,000? Also is carfax worth it? The car apparently has '23 records', but if it's a crock of poo poo I won't bother with it. I've never purchased a car so I'm trying to do as much research as possible beforehand; I'm only half-way through this thread though.
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May 15, 2010 10:08
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11? more like 8-9k
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May 15, 2010 10:10
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I'm pretty sure the dealer will tell me to get lost if I try and knock off 3-4 grand from their listed price. Why so low out of curiosity?
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May 15, 2010 10:18
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I don't loving know; 11k seems ridiculous for an 03. Shop around online?
jamal fucked around with this message at 10:56 on May 15, 2010 |
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May 15, 2010 10:37
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Fair enough. I've been browsing online for the last month, not finding a lot of stock wrx's for less than $9k in my area.
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May 15, 2010 10:51
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Car is overpriced for the mileage. If you decide to buy it, get a private inspection done first. Get a compression test.
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May 15, 2010 11:16
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