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Pompous Rhombus posted:I've got plastic reels and they're fine. I don't have a proper darkroom (windowless bathroom + towel under the door, tiny counterspace) and I drop them every now and then, it's nice not to worry about them getting bent up. I've got some old stainless reels in a box but I've never used them. This sound like heaven to me, I wait until midnight (when its roughly darkest) put 2/3 blankets over my bedroom window, takes about 20 minutes to get that set up. Then I stand a mattress against my door, seal that up with bed sheets and pillows, then I turn off the lights and hide under a quilt trying to cut and load film. I always forget that Ive left the scissors downstairs at this point, and after i have loaded the film I must have lost a few pounds in sweat alone. Get a changing bag you say? There's no fun in that.
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May 5, 2010 21:19
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Fbi2thegrave posted:
Also check the pressure plate on the film door
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May 5, 2010 21:23
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Tziko posted:Wohoo, a package arrived in the mail today: Good on ya, I've tried TMax and I don't like it. Maybe it's better with TMax developer, but I thought the results I got from it weren't as nice as Tri-X. Tri-X till the day I die. I do want to try some Ektar in 120 or 4x5, although at the moment I don't have a working medium format camera and I've got way too much C-41 sheet film to get through as it is. It's my birthday today and fittingly both labs I sent out film to last Monday got my film to me this afternoon  The medium format has been sitting on my shelf for almost two years.
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May 5, 2010 23:02
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notlodar posted:Before lightroom 3: Fixed that for you.
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May 6, 2010 00:02
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Tziko posted:Wohoo, a package arrived in the mail today: I've always used D76 1:1 for Tri-X. Tmax with Tri-X seemed kinda lame. Rodinal was cool, just grainy as all hell, which can be awesome in certain circumstances. Haven't tried XTOL yet though. Fixer is pretty much interchangeable, unless you need a hardening or a non-hardening fixer for certain purposes. For RC papers, I'd personally recommend the pearl coat over glossy... glossy RC just feels so plastic and drug-storeish. Have you tried working with fiber paper yet? RC is great for starting and if you need large amounts of cheap paper, but goddamn is fiber gorgeous in comparison. Especially selenium-toned fiber. If you can find any sample packs of something like a warm-tone 5x7 fiber paper, that would be a great way to try it without too much of an investment.
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May 6, 2010 01:01
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Here's what my ghetto darkroom/changing bag is: Medium sized cardboard box inside five big black garbage bags. Lay the whole thing down so the garbage bags open towards you. Put a brick or something heavy down on top of the loose part of the bags so it doesn't fly open for some reason, then a towel over the rest of the opening. Put your arms in and you've got a ton of room to move in a bag that should be fine for either a normally or dimly lit room. This is how I did all my film loading before I bought my changing bag, and I regret throwing the setup out because my new changing bag is way too small. Edit: Or if you're really paranoid, you can just tie the whole bag contraption shut and make holes a little smaller than your arms would be. Force your arm in, make another hole in another bag in another location, repeat for all five bags.
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May 6, 2010 01:10
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XTOL is cool, and I've had great results with it pushing 400-speed films to dizzying heights, but I wouldn't recommend it for a rookie since you have to mix it up and stuff and you've already got enough things to worry about. HC-110 is good because it's easy to use and it stores well in syrup form (unmixed). I use Ilford Rapid Fixer for fixer because I'm impatient.
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May 6, 2010 01:15
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Can anyone recommend a film / developer combo for getting really grainy B&W? I used to work for some dudes that I think did Delta 1600 and then would push it, but I'm not sure how or what they were developing it with.
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May 6, 2010 02:16
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brad industry posted:Can anyone recommend a film / developer combo for getting really grainy B&W? I used to work for some dudes that I think did Delta 1600 and then would push it, but I'm not sure how or what they were developing it with. Push process something that's already grainy, then try Rodinal at 1:25 dilution, or possibly even more concentrated... I've found some suggestions of trying Delta 3200 in Rodinal at 1:10 dilution in hotter water than usual. Don't go TOO concentrated or it'll actually melt the emulsion right off. Another trick would be to shake the gently caress out of the developing tank during processing, way more than usual. Abuse it. Hot water and too much shaking ought to get some burly grain. From a Flickr search-  User: DJKloss Says it's TMAX 3200 (grainier than Delta) in Rodinal at 1:10 dilution Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 02:48 on May 6, 2010 |
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May 6, 2010 02:22
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brad industry posted:Can anyone recommend a film / developer combo for getting really grainy B&W? I used to work for some dudes that I think did Delta 1600 and then would push it, but I'm not sure how or what they were developing it with. Delta 3200 is pretty chunky. Look for a developer that has the least solvent action like Rodinal. Shooting in smaller formats like 110, APS or 35mm half-frame will help too.
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May 6, 2010 02:23
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notlodar posted:Those use friction to grip the film, just stick it in the middle opening part and loop it around. It's a lot easier than all the newer reels with those drat clips. I managed to get my film on one of these reels quite quickly! It went much more smoothly than I was expecting. I used 225mL of solution in the single reel tank. I did put a kink in the film on one spot, but I think I can aim to avoid that next time. God knows my plastic reels have kinked the film more than a few times when they gently caress up. My only complaint is that the 36 shot film (that went to 38 exposures) was about three inches too long for the reel! One and a half exposures were flapping around as it developed. They appear ok, but it will be a while until I can scan everything. Is this a common problem? I guess I can cut a bit more off each end of the film when I am loading, but the last exposure is already perilously close to the snip!
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May 6, 2010 02:27
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Associate Christ
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brad industry posted:I just found the best timer Are these good? My aunt just got me one, along with an Omega B-22 enlarger, an Omega C760 enlarger with a dichroic head, and a bunch of lenses. Home darkroom, here I come! P.S. I have three B-22s. Total cost? 27 dollars. Edit: If anyone in Brooklyn has a space that can be converted to a 35mm/medium format darkroom, I have ALL the equipment, but not enough space. :-( ShotgunWillie fucked around with this message at 03:47 on May 6, 2010 |
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May 6, 2010 03:43
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brad industry posted:Can anyone recommend a film / developer combo for getting really grainy B&W? I used to work for some dudes that I think did Delta 1600 and then would push it, but I'm not sure how or what they were developing it with. D76, Delta 3200, and a shitload of agitation.
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May 6, 2010 03:46
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Tziko- This isn't a perfect method of comparison by any means, but it's usually how I get an idea of how specific combinations might look. Great idea, thanks! HPL posted:XTOL is cool, and I've had great results with it pushing 400-speed films to dizzying heights, but I wouldn't recommend it for a rookie since you have to mix it up and stuff and you've already got enough things to worry about. HC-110 is good because it's easy to use and it stores well in syrup form (unmixed). I use Ilford Rapid Fixer for fixer because I'm impatient. Based on the Flickr photos above, I think I'm going to go with Xtol. I'm not really bothered at all by the mixing, since I'll just mix up the 5 liter batch at once beforehand and store them in some large bottles. Dr. Cogwerks posted:I've always used D76 1:1 for Tri-X. Tmax with Tri-X seemed kinda lame. Rodinal was cool, just grainy as all hell, which can be awesome in certain circumstances. Haven't tried XTOL yet though. My first (and only) developed roll of film was Tmax with Rodinal. I only made one print out of it, so I can't be that certain of the results yet, but it came out really well. At least I'll have something to compare to if I go with Tri-X and XTOL now. Good point on the RC paper. I'm planning on getting 100 pieces of 7x9.5" and 5x7" each, so I'll try one of them in pearl. I was told that the contrast of the glossy paper is better than with pearl or satin, but it'll be nice being able to compare them directly to see if the shiny surface is worth the increased contrast.
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May 6, 2010 04:45
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Tziko- This isn't a perfect method of comparison by any means, but it's usually how I get an idea of how specific combinations might look. There has got to be some sort of website or (preferably) book that has all sorts of film/developer combinations in controlled shots Anyone?
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May 6, 2010 05:33
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Kaluza-Klein posted:My only complaint is that the 36 shot film (that went to 38 exposures) was about three inches too long for the reel! One and a half exposures were flapping around as it developed. They appear ok, but it will be a while until I can scan everything. I'm a little bit confused as to what you're getting at here. How will the number of frames exposed somehow make the length of film longer when you're unloading it and threading it onto the reel? You could have exposed 4 of 36 and the length is still the same. I cut right against the spool core and right after the indent at the leader. I get about 1/2"-1" hanging off the "end" of the reel. Doesn't make a difference. I'm not really sure how you're managing something different.
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May 6, 2010 19:59
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Push process something that's already grainy, then try Rodinal at 1:25 dilution, or possibly even more concentrated... I've found some suggestions of trying Delta 3200 in Rodinal at 1:10 dilution in hotter water than usual. Don't go TOO concentrated or it'll actually melt the emulsion right off. Another trick would be to shake the gently caress out of the developing tank during processing, way more than usual. Abuse it. Hot water and too much shaking ought to get some burly grain. Cool that looks pretty good, I am going to do some tests next week and see what happens. Thanks dudes. ShotgunWillie posted:Are these good? I dunno it works, looks awesome, and was $1.
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May 6, 2010 20:34
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Brad, another method is to develop in paper developer. MY GIRLFRIEND shoots Delta 3200 and develops it like that for wicked grain. I want to say it only takes something like 5 minutes, too, since paper developer is so energetic.
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May 6, 2010 20:55
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McMadCow posted:MY GIRLFRIEND So who is the better photographer? EDIT: Really need to start keeping my film altogether in the fridge. Was sure I had 2 Tri x left, put one in the camera but couldn't find the other one, searched for 30 minutes, found 2 tri x in my bag, so was the one I put in the camera something I had already shot and but left the winder out? I am so unorganized. fronkpies fucked around with this message at 22:34 on May 6, 2010 |
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May 6, 2010 22:29
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McMadCow posted:I'm a little bit confused as to what you're getting at here. How will the number of frames exposed somehow make the length of film longer when you're unloading it and threading it onto the reel? You could have exposed 4 of 36 and the length is still the same. I just used frames exposed as an indicator of how long the actual strip of film was. Some brands don't give you as much extra, right? I was worried the frames not in the reel wouldn't expose correctly, since they were pushing up against the side of the tank, but they seem to be fine.
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May 6, 2010 22:39
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How much time should I give Ilford Rapid fixer do it's thing for single rolls? I've just been leaving it for five minutes because I couldn't find a specific time anywhere.
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May 6, 2010 22:56
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Augmented Dickey posted:How much time should I give Ilford Rapid fixer do it's thing for single rolls? I've just been leaving it for five minutes because I couldn't find a specific time anywhere. I used to leave it for five minutes but bumped that up to about 7 minutes. I heard it fixed the purple cast abit on tri x but others say the pre wash helps with that. 7 minutes does me fine though.
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May 6, 2010 23:00
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fronkpies posted:I am so unorganized.
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May 6, 2010 23:02
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Augmented Dickey posted:How much time should I give Ilford Rapid fixer do it's thing for single rolls? I've just been leaving it for five minutes because I couldn't find a specific time anywhere. Do a clip test. Just toss a piece of the leader in a shot glass about half full of your fix. Time how long it takes to turn clear and then double that.
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May 6, 2010 23:03
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My diluted bottle of Ilford Rapid fixer does its' thing in like four minutes or less. It's seriously possessed. I still let it fix for like five minutes.
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May 6, 2010 23:23
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I always mix up Rapid Fixer at maximum strength because over time it weakens and thins out. It's fun throwing a test strip in there and watching it go clear in under one minute when the fixer is fresh.
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May 7, 2010 00:00
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evil_bunnY posted:I basically only shoot Tri-X and HP5 so I just mark the speed on the canister when I load it. Kind of irrelevant since I never leave the leader sticking out (that's just setting yourself up for failure). I usually have a nice sharpie-type pen for marking rolls in my bag, otherwise I'll just tear off the indented section at the beginning of the roll so I don't accidentally load it later. My bottle opener (or my cannister opening technique) is a real pain in the rear end sometimes so if I remember I try to leave the leader out.
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May 7, 2010 01:07
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fronkpies posted:I am so unorganized. I have a bunch of film I shot a few months ago sitting here waiting for me to develop it. I just realised today that one of those was shot at 800 and I have no idea which one it was 
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May 7, 2010 01:53
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I cleaned the view finder on my OM-1 with Isopropyl alcohol, and now it is really really cloudy. I guess that was a bad idea? What should I clean it with?
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May 7, 2010 14:56
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I cleaned the view finder on my OM-1 with Isopropyl alcohol, and now it is really really cloudy. I guess that was a bad idea? What should I clean it with? You hosed up. Never clean viewfinders with anything even remotely solvent. Were you cleaning the eyepiece or the focusing screen?
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May 7, 2010 15:06
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I cleaned the view finder on my OM-1 with Isopropyl alcohol, and now it is really really cloudy. I guess that was a bad idea? What should I clean it with? Don't feel too bad - I did the same thing, but it was trying to clean the mirror on a lovely Yashica FR body.
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May 7, 2010 16:52
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I cleaned the view finder on my OM-1 with Isopropyl alcohol, and now it is really really cloudy. I guess that was a bad idea? What should I clean it with? Yeah, you're not going to clean it with anything at this point. It's likely solvent enough to have melted the matte surface of your focus screen down.
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May 7, 2010 18:26
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Martytoof posted:Yeah, you're not going to clean it with anything at this point. It's likely solvent enough to have melted the matte surface of your focus screen down. Ugh, I did the same thing to my first SLR. Thankfully it was an old Mamiya MSX500 I got on Ebay for $30, but man was that frustrating.
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May 7, 2010 19:07
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I cleaned my K20d's focus screen with ethanol or methanol, whichever is the one that's not supposed to melt plastic on contact, I forgot which. I was pretty bummed out when I saw the smudge. Thankfully I was cleaning it after using it as a template for cutting a new focus screen from my busted Pentax ME's focus screen so I had a really nice replacement to drop in.
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May 7, 2010 19:13
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So my "Leikon" idea is off to a bit of a shaky start. I couldn't get the metering cams off my 50mm Summicron to clear the adapter. They're loc-tited down and I'm not having much luck with heating them off. The 35-70 converted without a hitch, but now the aperture opens and closes on the camera instead of staying open when it's mounted. So it's like I'm using a constant aperture on a rangefnder or something. Except that's a real bitch on a manual focus camera. It seems like the throw of the aperture arm on a Nikon is much shorter than a Leica, even if I do figure out how to engage it. Blah, I may end up getting another Leica after all.
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May 7, 2010 21:27
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Okay, I'm getting sick of paying the lab to make med res scans for me. I was looking at epson scanners and someone want to explain the difference between the V500 and V700?
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May 7, 2010 22:28
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I bought an Epson Perfection 3170 scanner today at a garage sale for $5...but it didn't include the film trays or the AC adapter. I'm pretty sure I can make my own film tray out of heavy cardboard or something, but I'm not sure what to do about the AC adapter...
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May 7, 2010 22:34
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Augmented Dickey posted:I bought an Epson Perfection 3170 scanner today at a garage sale for $5...but it didn't include the film trays or the AC adapter. I'm pretty sure I can make my own film tray out of heavy cardboard or something, but I'm not sure what to do about the AC adapter... What kind of plug does the adapter use? There ought to be some voltage/apmerage specificiations, and a little diagram that looks sort of like a -C*- which indicates the polarity. My Epson 3200 has a plug that's built into the body so I can't help, sorry
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May 7, 2010 22:38
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Got a lot of scanning done today, still have a couple rolls left and some botched ones to redo. Here are Kodachromes from the Asian Culture Festival in Miami in March. I think the light was too harsh for all of the ones I took out in the sunlight, probably should have saved the film for another day.  Which of these two works better? First one, right?      McMadCow posted:
Try a Canon EOS before you throw in the towel! 8th-samurai posted:Okay, I'm getting sick of paying the lab to make med res scans for me. I was looking at epson scanners and someone want to explain the difference between the V500 and V700? The biggest difference is the size of the transparency scanning area; the V700/750 can do up to 8x10, the V500 can only do 35mm and 120. I think the V700/750 also have a higher Dmax so you'll get more shadow/highlight detail, but if you aren't shooting large format or using film professionally, the V500 is probably fine. I have the V500 at home and use a V750 at work. The Silverfast software we're using with the V750 has a lot of manual controls, but some of the stuff (like auto frame selection) is horribly broken. Epson Scan on my V500 is simple but pretty effective. One thing I've noticed on the is you seem to lose about 5% or so around every frame when you let it auto-select though. Augmented Dickey posted:I bought an Epson Perfection 3170 scanner today at a garage sale for $5...but it didn't include the film trays or the AC adapter. I'm pretty sure I can make my own film tray out of heavy cardboard or something, but I'm not sure what to do about the AC adapter... http://www.compassmicro.com/parts2.cfm They've got some annoying minimum order charges/surcharges, but it's overall not bad. IIRC Epson doesn't sell replacement film holders themselves. Don't make your own unless you want to spend a while shimming and trimming; the DoF on a scanner is really thin so you want to be really precise. If you get the urge to really go all out, the Betterscanning.com holders with anti-Newton ring glass inserts are favored by some people for maximizing film flatness/sharpness. Edit: AC adapter is gonna run you $32 from them though 
Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 22:55 on May 7, 2010 |
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May 7, 2010 22:51
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