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EightBit posted:Transmission choice comes down to preference. I wouldn't consider either superior as they both have benefits. Rough terrain will be a bit easier in an auto since you won't get such bad lurching when your foot bounces on the gas pedal; either way, you'll want a hand throttle for driving over uneven terrain so you can avoid unexpected throttle changes. I agree with all of that except the hand throttle part. You only even need to think about installing one of those if you're doing some seriously hardcore terrain - like boulder crawling in a highly modified rig. Low gear and your foot are just fine for 98% of wheeling. And yes, transmission choice is personal preference. I have a manual 08 Rubi and my friend has an auto 09 Rubi. Both work just great on the trails here in the PNW. I prefer manuals, although sometimes I do envy him when I'm sitting in traffic and giving the clutch the ol' in&out.
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Apr 26, 2010 19:35
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I posted in here awhile back about getting a '93-'98 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ). I'd still like your guys' opinions on them, and anything that you might think I need to know about them, like trouble areas or things to look out for. I've Googled around some, and read some Jeep forums, I'd just like the AI view.
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Apr 29, 2010 05:45
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Apoligies for not reading all 85 pages of posts, (in my defense, I read 1-25 65-85) I'm in the market for a trail (capable) vehicle that also might satisfy a DD requirement. A few weeks ago, I had the unfortunate task of assisting my co-worker with removing a hardtop, installing a soft-top for a JK, then taking a ride through the Blue Ridge Parkway on the way to a good micro-brewery, and well, I got the itch. I want a Wrangler, but I want a non-Daimler ride, within my price-range (8k) I-6, best drive-train I can afford. From my readings, I seem to require a 1997-1998 TJ, I-6 manual 5-speed. This doesn't have to be a DD, this can be a project since I have another vehicle. 1) I want a I6, unless a 4-banger + tranny is worth a swap 2) I want a Np231 xfer case for reliability/aftermarket/parts (nothing fancy, I'm looking for durability) 3) Looking for on-par reliability to my S10 but with better aftermarket support. (squeaks, but change fluid, its great) Thoughts were a 1997/98 TJ but I'm not opposed to a YJ as long as it is as solid in terms of drivetrain/aftermarket support. What else should I look for, I'm not going to pay the Summer-time Soft-top Tax (inflated $2k prices this time of year in my area) I wouldnt be opposed to an XJ, to mod, the prices are significantly less, but I'd like the convertable aspect. What am I missing for drivetrain longevity?
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May 1, 2010 02:27
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Cheap Bourbon posted:1) I want a I6, unless a 4-banger + tranny is worth a swap. To be bluntly honest, in my shoes, if you can hold off and save a little more cash, just buy one with a I6 to begin with. When you start adding the cost of buying a *good* engine, swaping out ECU's, trannys blah blah blah, you could easily buy a nice one with a I6. The 4 bang with any head wind will make you crazy 
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May 1, 2010 03:05
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Just bought my first Jeep. A 99 Wrangler, 4.0L, Auto Trans. Pictures coming soon. She's absolutely bone stock at the moment. while I'm pretty sure she's capable of pounding out some Wisconsin and UP trails, what are some things I absolutely must do (modifications) before I can really have some fun, and still potentially DD? Apologies in advance if this has already been asked in some way, a shove in the right direction would suffice. if wishes were knishes fucked around with this message at 07:03 on May 2, 2010 |
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May 2, 2010 07:01
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That falls into the realm of go out and break stuff, fix it after. A decent set of tires is a good place to start. Once you start learning about how to handle the vehicle start thinking about upgrades, larger tires, lifts and highline fenders, axles, lockers, SBCs etc.
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May 5, 2010 03:56
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Some quick-disconnects for the swaybar, maybe a 2" budget boost and stock Rubicon coils to clear some 31" or 32" tires and longer travel shocks.
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May 5, 2010 05:25
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Seriously considering some of the fenders from here: http://modernclassicenterprises.com/ As seen http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/new-lightweight-classic-cj-style-flattie-fenders-wrangler-959981/ My only concern is possible hood damage, but I'm think hood damage over a tweaked tub would be a better option.
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May 5, 2010 14:28
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BEEP BEEP I'M SURROUNDED BY A THOUSAND JEEPS! Went to the "Blessing of the Jeeps" in Mesick, MI, last weekend. I got there three hours after it opened and was the 1,100th through the gate, and Jeeps were still coming in, so that's a good turnout for being in the middle of nowhere. There was a mud bog, a couple trails through a stand of trees and across a field (all the way from mild to "no way in hell"), and a couple dozen vendors. The event was set up by the Cadillac Jeepers and their website has a link to hundreds of aerial pictures from last year.  Click here for the full 1725x1243 image.  Click here for the full 1736x1192 image. Is it just me, or does the JK look like a  when compared to a Willys?  Click here for the full 1287x1077 image. Yep, it's a postal jeep, and it had a postal ID badge hanging from the dash. I'm guessing an employee bought it surplus, which if you think about it, ain't a bad idea, they have high miles, but weren't abused off-road.  Click here for the full 2048x1535 image. IMHO, the scoop is kinda pointless since I doubt this Jeep will ever be going fast enough to take full advantage of it, but it looks cool in an "I-bet-it-has-a-V8" kind of way.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. So close, yet so very very far... I think this belongs in another thread too...  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. I have no idea... It looks like a CJ hosed a frog... (Thanks to Wikipedia, I now know it's a M422 Mighty Mite and it was made that small so it could be carried by helicopters, and yet it could carry 6 Marines!)  Click here for the full 2048x1535 image.  Click here for the full 2047x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2046x1534 image.  Click here for the full 1219x889 image. There were a lot of Jeeps with mild upgrades, some with major upgrades, and then there was this guy.
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May 5, 2010 20:49
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nubie7357 posted:
lovely rims and Thornbirds. The pinnacle of good taste.
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May 5, 2010 21:08
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Seriously considering some of the fenders from here: http://modernclassicenterprises.com/ Looks like a good idea, have something that's cheap and easily replicable on a trail rig is a good idea. You look at the really built up jeeps which are basically a custom tube chassis, they would go with an aftermarket body or fiberglass body pieces like the desert race trucks. Something that's prone to damage, just tear it off and pin/bolt in a new one. Granted they want weight reduction for speed, but that transfers over to wheeling.
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May 5, 2010 21:20
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I am having a terrible time finding a decent Cherokee for under $2500. Should I just say gently caress it and start looking at Grand Cherokees? Is it possible to find a good Grand Cherokee with a V-8 or do I need to stick to six cylinder models if I want reliability? Also, do all solid axle Jeeps steer with no precision and autonomously decide where they want to go when they hit bumps?
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May 5, 2010 23:44
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PBCrunch posted:Also, do all solid axle Jeeps steer with no precision and autonomously decide where they want to go when they hit bumps? Lifting Jeeps reduces the caster angle (which gives the return to center action). When you get adjustable control arms to counteract the change in caster and pinion angles that occurs with lifts, people tend to favor getting the pinion angle back in line as having that out will thrash your drivetrain. Bone stock Jeeps will steer just fine, and lifting doesn't gently caress up the precision, they just start to wander. Edit: caster != camber EightBit fucked around with this message at 16:33 on May 6, 2010 |
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May 6, 2010 01:13
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Thinking about "upgrading" to some 37" Interco IROK's (radial version) on my JK Unlimited. Anyone have an opinion on these tires ? My 35's only measure in at 33.8" and really, they don't look large enough especially with flat fenders. Plus I like snow wheeling, and I figure the 37" tires will work well down around 8psi.
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May 6, 2010 10:56
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EightBit posted:Lifting Jeeps reduces the camber angle (which gives the return to center action). When you get adjustable control arms to counteract the change in camber and pinion angles that occurs with lifts, people tend to favor getting the pinion angle back in line as having that out will thrash your drivetrain. Caster Caster is the fore/aft inclination of the kingpin axis that affects the self-centering characteristics of the steering.
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May 6, 2010 13:48
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murphle posted:Caster Aw poo poo how'd I screw that up so bad?
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May 6, 2010 16:33
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EightBit posted:Lifting Jeeps reduces the caster angle (which gives the return to center action). When you get adjustable control arms to counteract the change in caster and pinion angles that occurs with lifts, people tend to favor getting the pinion angle back in line as having that out will thrash your drivetrain. Yeah, these have been stock Jeeps that steer like poo poo and get all out of whack over bumps.
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May 6, 2010 18:29
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jonathan posted:Thinking about "upgrading" to some 37" Interco IROK's (radial version) on my JK Unlimited. Anyone have an opinion on these tires ? My 35's only measure in at 33.8" and really, they don't look large enough especially with flat fenders. Plus I like snow wheeling, and I figure the 37" tires will work well down around 8psi. They're an awesome tire. Had them on H1's, lots of friends run them on rocks, sand and snow, and they can go down that low in psi on a fat hummer, they'll be fine on a jeep provided you got clearance while steering.
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May 6, 2010 18:46
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PBCrunch posted:Yeah, these have been stock Jeeps that steer like poo poo and get all out of whack over bumps. Just add more wedge, she'll run true.
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May 7, 2010 06:09
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drat this thread makes me want a Jeep even more. I drive a '94 Ford F-150, but steal my mom's '04 Grand Cherokee whenever I get the chance. Really hoping to get a Wrangler this summer, but doubt I'll be able to find an affordable one. Surprisingly pretty much anything would be a step up in MPG from my truck though.
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May 7, 2010 16:47
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nubie7357 posted:
If the next gen gets even bigger they're going to have to come out with a retro CJ2A that will still be 50% larger than the original. Or hopefully go back to the basics with no air, no doors, 2 seats and a full cage!
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May 8, 2010 01:02
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So we bought a Jeep. Last week we looked at a 1999 Cherokee Sport 4x4 four-door with a lot of miles (250k). The air doesn't work and the passenger side has a not major dent. It was a one owner truck and the owner was the regional manager of Papa Murphy's, so the truck was used to drive all over Nebraska, North and South Dakota, plus parts of Iowa and Missouri (lots of highway travel). The interior was super clean and other than the dent on the passenger side and a small crack in the windshield the paint and body was also very clean. There were tons of service records with the truck. The problem was that the owner wanted $3000 for the truck. I offered him $1700 since that was what I felt it was worth and he declined. Well, a week later he sent me an email saying he would accept $1900. That was more like it. The wheels need to either be painted or swapped. There are lots of different Grand Cherokee wheels that I like and I am pretty sure they fit. I just don't want to buy new tires since the ones on the truck have a lot of life left in them. I would take a better picture but my wife took the Jeep to work this morning. I think she likes it more than I do. This Jeep has the kind of 4x4 that should not be run on dry pavement. How can I find out more about the mechanicals of this Jeep such as what kind of differentials it has? I am guessing maintenance-wise I should probably start by changing the oil, trans fluid, diff fluid(s), transfer case fluid, coolant, am I missing anything? Maybe bleed the brakes and swap out the power steering fluid for good measure. So anyway, here is our 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4 4.0L auto four door (sorry about the crappy cell phone picture): 
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May 9, 2010 13:33
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PBCrunch posted:So we bought a Jeep. Jesus that's a lot of miles. $3000 is nuts for that used of a Jeep. There are 2 kinds of 4wd in that Jeep - CommandTrac and SelecTrac. CommandTrac is your basic "lock the diffs" and will have the options of 2wd, 4Hi, 4Low. This should not be used much on dry pavement as every turn it will buck and kick. SelecTrac offers 2wd, 4 Part Time, 4 Full Time, 4Low - 4 Full Time can be used whenever you want and will provide limited slippage. Check through the service records to find out what needs to be done. If it was dealer serviced and the guy followed the schedule you should be in good shape, unless he stopped servicing as religiously recently. Try charging the air conditioner with a can of coolant from Walmart or wherever. I did this in my Jeep last summer and it's still blowing cold. If the coolant leak is minor it may be able to seal it. It's almost definitely a leaky evaporator so don't even bother spending any money tracking it down. It's $1000+ to have repaired. Even if you have to charge it once/year that's a lot of years before you spend enough to justify replacing the evap.
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May 9, 2010 16:00
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Yeah it is definitely CommandTrac. Where can I find out what the axle ratios and the types of differentials that are in the axles?
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May 9, 2010 17:42
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PBCrunch posted:The wheels need to either be painted or swapped. There are lots of different Grand Cherokee wheels that I like and I am pretty sure they fit. I just don't want to buy new tires since the ones on the truck have a lot of life left in them. I would take a better picture but my wife took the Jeep to work this morning. I think she likes it more than I do. I have these same wheels on my Wrangler. They look great with a few coats of Rustoleum Hammered silver. The easiest way to do it is to do one wheel at a time. Take it off, scuff the surface with sandpaper and clean, then slip index cards or paper between the rim and the tire to shield the tire from paint. Then slap on two or three coats. I've had mine painted for a year and it hasn't come off. Rustoleum Hammered has almost teflon-like qualities when sprayed right, and road grime wipes right off when washing. PBCrunch posted:Yeah it is definitely CommandTrac. Where can I find out what the axle ratios and the types of differentials that are in the axles? The axles will have steel tags attached to the diff cover bolts denoting the ratio and existance of limited-slip, which was only available in the rear. You probably have 3.55 or 3.73. Ford used to indicate limited slip by an "L" in the ratio, don't know if Chrysler did it. You may have to pull the cover and look inside to find out. incredibull fucked around with this message at 18:04 on May 9, 2010 |
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May 9, 2010 17:59
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PBCrunch posted:Yeah it is definitely CommandTrac. Where can I find out what the axle ratios and the types of differentials that are in the axles? The transfer case is a NP231j fyi. Since its a 99 you should have a High Pinion d30 upfront. Out back could be a 8.25 chrysler or a d35. They both have an oval shape to them but the 8.25 will have a lip sticking out on the bottom and is has a larger "pumpkin". this is an 8.25 http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii305/veeb0rg/Jeep/Axle%20ID/Axle_825.jpg this is an d35 http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii305/veeb0rg/Jeep/Axle%20ID/cover_dana35c.jpg If you have a 8.25 it is a 29 spline and is plenty strong, if you have a d35... well not so much. If you can't tell which axle you have, feel free to snap a pic and someone will be able to tell. As for Axle ratios, Automatics with out the towing package should have 3.55's, With the tow package 3.73's. find the tag on either diff and it will have the ratio on it. If you have a Limited Slip unit, there should be a sticker in the glovebox warning about using an additive in the gear oil. I have Grand Cherokee rims on my jeep and I think they look pretty good. http://www.newcon.org/newcon/components/com_joomgallery/img_originals/cherokee_lifted_1/lift_kit_installed_2_20091013_1945702745.jpg Any plans on a lift kit/etc? Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 07:43 on May 10, 2010 |
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May 10, 2010 07:32
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The front is a high pinion Dana 30 and the rear (commonly the Chrysler 8.25) should have a sticker on the rear of the right tube with its gear ratio; probably 3.54. If you have ABS it's the bastard child axle of the Chrysler family -- the Dana 35. The limited slip clutches in the rear wear out pretty fast but are worth replacing if you do any driving in the snow/ice during the winter. Nice find. It looks exactly like mine did when I got it (also a blue '99).
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May 10, 2010 07:35
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I'm thinking of selling my XJ. Very sad but it looks like it will become very cumbersome to have the extra car soon. 2000 Cherokee Sport (Patriot Blue) 100k miles 4.0 Automatic Power windows/locks A/C still works from my recharge last summer. I installed a 2" hitch receiver and a tranny cooler Tires are in awesome shape (I think they have 10k-15k on them) Other than the towing stuff, it's bone stock. I'm thinking $3500. It's in great shape and runs like a champ. All the fluids were changed ~ year ago, oils been changed every 3k. Any goons interested? Does this seem like a good price? It's in Worcester, MA.
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May 12, 2010 20:00
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Where were you a year ago! 
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May 12, 2010 20:53
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As long as the body's straight, the interior is good and it's not being eaten by rust, I'd say it's a fair price. Does it have a 0331 head? 
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May 12, 2010 22:43
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Doctor Zero posted:Where were you a year ago! Sorry  - Toyota didn't offer 0% on the Highlanders last year nor was I ready to buy a new car. As much as I'd love to go wheeling I find the only off-roading I do is mild trails which the Highlander can easily pass. I just don't have the budget to keep the Jeep and lift and wheel it. Not to mention the Highlander can actually stop my boat trailer without smoking the brakes.Philip J Fry posted:As long as the body's straight, the interior is good and it's not being eaten by rust, I'd say it's a fair price. Does it have a 0331 head? Body's almost perfect - a few tiny rust spots that I keep meaning to sand down and touch up. Interior I had detailed last year and looks pretty good and doesn't smell bad. How do I tell what head it has?
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May 13, 2010 02:30
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Doctor Zero posted:Where were you a year ago! What he said! Why are manual XJs so rare? Moreso 97+? And even moreso 2-doors? The other day I saw one at Jeepforum but it was really lifted and 35" tires, which I see too excessive. Basically, are there any numbers of how many of these specs were produced?
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May 13, 2010 04:51
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The more I drive my new (old) Jeep the more I like it. The engine is torquey and the seating position is nice. I installed my Alpine CDA-9885 iPod CD player from my old car and put in four new speakers, so the stereo sounds pretty good. I still want to put in a single twelve inch woofer or something and and an amp for the woofer and for the speakers. I have no plans to lift the Jeep, but the rear leafs are sagging a little bit. I do plan to get an extra leaf and put that in once I have some other projects wrapped up. I also want to put some auxiliary lights on the front or maybe on the roof. Probably on the front since it might not fit in my garage with lights on the top. I will also be putting a remote start in before winter because warm cars are better than cold ones. I am also going to have the front door windows tinted and keep looking around for some 15" TJ wheels. I have one more little problem. After installing the speakers I have noticed that sometimes when I lock or unlock the doors the horn will honk. The truck does not have factory security. I only had the Jeep for a day before I put the speakers in, so it may have been a pre-existing condition that I never noticed. I was very careful and meticulous when installing the speakers. The only wires I cut were the ends of the speaker wires. Any ideas about this? My friend thinks maybe a wonky BCM.
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May 13, 2010 18:59
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Beep Beep I Bought a Jeep! Click here for the full 720x540 image.
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May 13, 2010 19:33
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Cablekid posted:Beep Beep I Bought a Jeep! Goddamn, I was sooo close to finding the loving tiki hidden at Bill Cody's grave, but my time ran out...
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May 13, 2010 19:43
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Boomerjinks posted:Goddamn, I was sooo close to finding the loving tiki hidden at Bill Cody's grave, but my time ran out... What does this mean?
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May 13, 2010 19:48
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A few weeks back Jeep hid tiki statues in Denver, Los Angeles, and Chicago. Each week they'd post clues as to the exact location of the statues, if you found one you would win an Islander.
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May 13, 2010 19:51
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PBCrunch posted:I am also going to have the front door windows tinted and keep looking around for some 15" TJ wheels. Tint on front windows is illegal in many states. Cops will ticket you for it (I know because my brother's a cop in CT and tickets people for it all the time). PBCrunch posted:I have one more little problem. After installing the speakers I have noticed that sometimes when I lock or unlock the doors the horn will honk. The truck does not have factory security. I only had the Jeep for a day before I put the speakers in, so it may have been a pre-existing condition that I never noticed. I was very careful and meticulous when installing the speakers. The only wires I cut were the ends of the speaker wires. Any ideas about this? My friend thinks maybe a wonky BCM. It's supposed to honk the horn when you use the remote to lock the doors. Mine does not when I unlock though.
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May 13, 2010 21:40
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Boomerjinks posted:Goddamn, I was sooo close to finding the loving tiki hidden at Bill Cody's grave, but my time ran out... I knew I already wanted one and when I pulled into the Dealership I was floored to see it sitting there and knew I had to have it. The picture really doesn't do justice to the surf blue color. They had 2 Unlimited Islanders that were white and silver but the blue seats just didn't match up to my liking. If your ever in Bakersfield with your Jeep you should stop by for a bit. 
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May 13, 2010 22:04
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fordham posted:How do I tell what head it has? Look just to the right of the oil cap on the edge of the head; it might be buried under a little bit of grime and is partially obscured by the valve cover (above port #4). Pre-96 was 7120, 96-99 is 0630 and 00-01 had 0031. The castings used by year vary between XJ's and WJ's so there's no exact science to it but the 0031's liked to crack between #3 and #4 cylinders. Mine's 0630, you can kind of make it out... 
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May 14, 2010 03:38
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