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Flay Minion posted:Additionally, with a sander you need some form of dust abatement or you'll be months getting the dust out of everything. If it only kept the smell of the poly out of my furnace so wouldn't be reminded of my finished floors for the first few weeks of using the heat.
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May 6, 2010 07:09
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Flay Minion posted:Heh, sorry, I forget where I am sometimes. I'm an old coot and my grandma was born in the early 1900's. My grandma was born in, lets see, uh... 1914. So, she was doing her floors in the '50s... Also, I wonder how much this varies by region. I've been in plenty of Victorians in San Francisco that have lovely parquet hardwood floors in the living areas. I think arts & crafts period houses also have a lot of exposed hardwood. Of course in the 70s and 80s everyone tacked down wall-to-wall carpets right over that beautiful wood for some drat stupid reason.
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May 6, 2010 09:01
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wormil posted:I have my bearings, thanks. Frankly I find nothing interesting about a pine floor with no distinctive grain nor any knots, might as well have fir. The bearings comment was directed at the fellow with the floor & the photo.
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May 6, 2010 12:35
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Leperflesh posted:My grandma was born in, lets see, uh... 1914. So, she was doing her floors in the '50s... I'm sure she was...a little history on floor waxes -- up until about the 1920's only natural waxes were used. Parrafin, carnuba and beeswax were the choices back then. They were melted on and rubbed into the wood for a shine. These are usually the base waxes (next to the wood) that you'll find in old homes. After the 20's, these same waxes were emulsified, dissolved in water w/ soaps; this liquid form was much easier to apply. In the mid-50's, the first polymers arrived and were used until folks started carpeting every drat thing. So, if one is pulling a floor and finds old antique linoleum (which itself is highly valued as a floor covering to some) chances are that the wax below will be easily strippable by nothing more than mineral spirts. The hard part is getting up the staining from the glue used to attach the linoleum. This is where people make errors by using power sanders -- putting too much focus on one place thereby damaging the floor. e: I've found that one can get up wax buildups in the corners by using an iron with the steam off, on medium setting. Put paper towels down and wedged into the corners and put the iron on them -- the towels will absorb the wax. Also works if you spill candle wax on regular hardwood floors Flay Minion fucked around with this message at 15:26 on May 7, 2010 |
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May 7, 2010 15:16
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Leperflesh posted:Of course in the 70s and 80s everyone tacked down wall-to-wall carpets right over that beautiful wood for some drat stupid reason. The house I'm living in now was built in 1929 and originally had hardwood floors throughout the house. About 70%+ of it is screwed off beyond all belief because someone during the late 70's decided to remodel with tile everywhere so we were only able to salvage a small portion of it. Also not all the hardwood matches since there were 3 build dates associated seperated by roughly 10-15 years a piece. In that instance, it's not worth salvaging so we just went slate. The guest bathroom was a nice 4 elevation floor after we took the linoleum off because there was a bubble, we had to strip off the linoleum layer, then the half rear end put down particle board layer over hardwood flooring then there was a corner of cement foundation, we're guessing it was originally part of the back porch also 2" tongue in groove below that. Just to start fresh, we floated the room, screwed down some hardybacker and tiled the room. My previous house had carpet loving everywhere! We had berber carpet in the kitchen and shag carpet in the bathrooms, the place smelled like a god drat sewer when I bought it. After we removed all the carpet, it instantly smelled better. keykey fucked around with this message at 15:54 on May 7, 2010 |
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May 7, 2010 15:52
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My condo bathroom fan sucks poorly and makes a ton of noise. I'm redoing the bathroom right now and want this thing out of there. There's a number of quiet, high powered fans on the market, but the problem is they all need 4" or larger ducting. My building is older and has 3" ducting. Can I just use a 4"->3" duct reducer? Obviously the airflow will be reduced and the fan may be a little bit noisier. This won't damage the motor or cut the airflow in half or anything like that, will it? VVVVV Thanks for the reply! It's actually a 3" rolled sheet metal duct, not flex tubing. I have no idea how long it is because it seems like it might tie into some central duct for the building, i.e. bathroom isn't on exterior wall and I can't see a vent on the exterior wall. saw your edit, thanks again yippee cahier fucked around with this message at 01:21 on May 8, 2010 |
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May 8, 2010 01:09
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It won't necessarily cut the airflow in half, but it *will* increase the pressure. All bathroom fans have ratings for maximum pressure; see if you can work out what it's rated for and if 3" flex will be too much back-pressure for it. If the 3" flex is short and straight, it's probably not a problem. But 20' of 3" flex very well could be. You don't want to burn it out. 3": 7.0in2 4": 12.5in2 Rule of thumb when you do calcs: Flex of a certain diameter has about twice the pressure drop of metal duct of the same diameter, and each 90° bend adds (IIRC) 20'. grover fucked around with this message at 01:21 on May 8, 2010 |
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May 8, 2010 01:15
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I was prepping a window frame to paint it and apparently a previous owner put some scotch tape on the molding around the frame. I removed the tape, but it definitely left some sort of residue behind. It's not sticky, but it is shiny and I'm concerned that the paint won't adhere. What are my options? I was thinking I could just sand it a bit and hopefully that will get rid of the residue.
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May 8, 2010 18:54
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Give denatured alcohol a try. Diluted 'Goof Off' will also work.
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May 8, 2010 19:09
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Flay Minion posted:Give denatured alcohol a try. Diluted 'Goof Off' will also work. I thought it was "Goo Gone"... That stuff is great for getting off adhesive.
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May 8, 2010 19:20
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kid sinister posted:I thought it was "Goo Gone"... That stuff is great for getting off adhesive. Could be but this is the stuff I'm talkin about. All citrusy and poo poo
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May 8, 2010 19:25
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kid sinister posted:I thought it was "Goo Gone"... That stuff is great for getting off adhesive. Very similar products. 3M General Adhesive Remover is the same thing, but in aerosol form.
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May 8, 2010 19:32
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kid sinister posted:You would need to find out if each jack is wired individually back to the demarc and see if you could free up enough slack for a patch panel somewhere. Daisy chaining is allowed for phones, but doesn't work for network wiring. Basically, pull every jack off the wall and look in the box to see if 2 or more wires and joined in any box. Since the wall jacks are RJ11s, could I just make "special" cables to go from the wall to a computer with an RJ11 on one end and a -45 on the other?
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May 8, 2010 23:30
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dur posted:Ok I figured it out. All the wires for the jacks just go to the basement and are kind of just hanging there. Looks like I can just put ends on them and plug them into a hub or whatever in the basement, and have an instant home network.
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May 8, 2010 23:46
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 Ugh. Painting/detailing question. I tried painting racing stripes on my joystick box and they turned out all hairy because I guess my masking skills aren't up to par or something. Any ideas on how to clean this up? My plan at the moment is to wait until it's completely dry (48 total hours), sand it down, then touch it up with white again. Also any tips on how to avoid this in the future would be GREATLY appreciated 
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May 9, 2010 16:22
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scuz posted:
Spray a light coat of clear over the tape after you put it down to seal the edges, and pull the tape as soon as the color coat feels tacky. Pull the tape back over itself. All of that should help you get nice crisp lines.
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May 9, 2010 20:00
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Thumposaurus posted:Spray a light coat of clear over the tape after you put it down to seal the edges, and pull the tape as soon as the color coat feels tacky. Pull the tape back over itself. All of that should help you get nice crisp lines.  I will be doing that next time. For now, I just put another coat of white over it and touched-up the lines with a black paint marker. I will be using your method for SURE next time. Click here for the full 1000x684 image.
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May 11, 2010 22:01
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eddiewalker posted:Very similar products. 3M General Adhesive Remover is the same thing, but in aerosol form. Ok, I tried goo gone and it did not work too well. It was getting the adhesive off, but it would have been a long process. I'm just going to sand it. New question: I painted a room with latex paint. Some time after that, months or so, I painted the trim around the door and window frame. I admittedly did it sloppy and got white paint on the blue wall paint. Any way to get it off? Should I try just re-painting over the messed up spots? I tried a Magic Eraser, but that did not work.
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May 12, 2010 03:39
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People go so far out of their way to avoid petroleum based solvents but ultimately they are the only sure way to remove glues/paints/etc. For run of the mill glue adhesive, mineral spirits will work much better than goo gone or similar. For tougher problems you may have to go with acetone or MEK. Disclaimer: Just wear appropriate gloves and use in a well ventilated area.
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May 12, 2010 06:40
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I have a super sweet idea. I live in an apartment where a lot of sound travels through the duct work. I'd like to line the accessible portions of my ducts with something that can help dampen or absorb some of the worst of the noise while not blocking airflow. I think something rubbery would probably be best. Does such a thing exist?
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May 12, 2010 08:36
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Are there any good guides for painting walls well? We're in the process of choosing colors, and eventually I guess we'll have to put paint to wall. The whole house was painted in neutral colors about a month ago. I have a few questions. Any brand recommendations? Should I go with something like the Behr premium ultra that is both a primer and pigment? What's the difference between all the different grades of paint? I have a dining room that shares a wall with the foyer. We're planning on painting the dining room but I'd prefer to avoid painting the foyer if I can. What would be a good way to transition the paint between the two rooms? I also have to do the same thing on the other side of the house where the foyer meets the office. The image below shows what I mean; see how the wall is the same where the floor changes from carpet to wood? What can I do to make that transition work?  Any general tips or suggestions?
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May 12, 2010 16:46
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I have to say that honestly I've never really noticed one paint being better than another. Consumer Reports recently tested some paints (if you put any weight into Consumer Reports these days). Consumer Reports results on paint. Behr Premium Plus Ultra came out on top for satin/eggshell and semigloss. (edit: Behr Premium Plus (no Ultra) came out in the middle of the pack) Kilz Casual Colors and Valspar Ultra Premium won Best Buy. wormil fucked around with this message at 17:05 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 12, 2010 17:03
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After trying several different brands, I wound up sticking with Ben Moore. It takes practice, but I always recommend learning how to cut in trim/ceilings without masking. When you mask, you leave a hard, sharp line that the eye picks up. I start by washing the walls down with a drop or two of dish soap in a couple gallons water, and use a well wrung-out rag. You don't want the walls really wet, but you do want to get dust/grime off. Once the walls have dried, paint the ceiling first, then cut in walls/trim. Roll the walls with as many coats as necessary (usually two), then finally, paint the doors/windows/trim. When painting doors, start with the raised panels first, then the center stile (vertical piece), followed by the horizontal rails (including the top and bottom), then the outer stiles. When painting windows, the process is similar. Work inside to outside. As far as the transition goes, this is the one place you should use masking tape. Run a piece that is in line with the left edge of the door casing. Everything to the left gets painted the dining room color (duh), then, after the dining room is painted, move the tape so that it masks the right edge of the freshly-painted area and paint the foyer. Be very careful removing the tape - do it while the paint is still wet. Oh, and use drop cloths you slob e: you'll note that I didn't mention primer. I rarely use it on already painted surfaces unless I'm trying to hide a huge color change, or a stain. Richard Noggin fucked around with this message at 17:35 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 12, 2010 17:30
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The trick to good painting is to: Get married, buy a house, do a lousy job painting that disgusts your significant other, relax and drink beer while they fix it.
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May 12, 2010 17:34
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ease posted:The trick to good painting is to: Giving my wife a paint brush results in a job that's equivalent to handing Michael J. Fox a scalpel and asking him to perform brain surgery.
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May 12, 2010 17:36
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I am a Sherwin Williams believer. It seems like sticker shock at first compared to other brands, but they will work with you and ask a lot of questions about your walls, the look you want, etc, and help you find ways to not waste paint (and actually go home with how much you need). They also have discounts for just about every place under the sun, so if you work for any moderately large employer at all in town make sure and ask. Do not under any circumstances by anything branded Duraclean. Holy loving hell.
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May 12, 2010 20:17
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We liked the Behr Ultra paint/primer. The Ace Hardware low VOC stuff kinda sucked. Didn't try anything else. Learn how to do it without masking tape (except for like Noggin said).
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May 12, 2010 23:27
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For my rentals I prefer the cheapest semi gloss poo poo I can get in white in a 5 gallon bucket, in the past that was conco pro triple white for $30. For my own house, I've tried various brands from walmart to behr to ralph lauren and found that as long as you get it at home depot/other home labrynth store, you'll be ok with what you choose. Walmart paint is absolute poo poo. Incidentally 15 years ago I used the same 5 gallon bucket of semi gloss in my garage since I had some left over from a rental paint job and my garage interior was looking funky and it still looks perfect for a white garage that's easy to clean because it's semi gloss paint. In bathrooms I do prefer behr paint only because it's mildew resistant. edit: doing a quick google I guess conco paint is sherwin williams dollar store brand. So add sherwin williams to the list of good paint as well. ease posted:The trick to good painting is to: Also this right here to an extent. I hate painting but my wife loves it so I'll just do the construction portion of a job and she'll paint. keykey fucked around with this message at 17:33 on May 13, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 17:29
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ease posted:Get married, buy a house, do a lousy job painting that disgusts your significant other, relax and drink beer while they fix it.
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May 14, 2010 00:34
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Richard Noggin posted:e: you'll note that I didn't mention primer. I rarely use it on already painted surfaces unless I'm trying to hide a huge color change, or a stain. Would a transition from beige to a deep burgundy be considered a "huge" color change? The Sherwin Williams guy recommended a gray primer with their 'super' paint. What's the difference between the different types of paint? What do I gain from going to a $40/gallon Sherwin Williams super paint?
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May 15, 2010 04:09
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Would a transition from beige to a deep burgundy be considered a "huge" color change? The Sherwin Williams guy recommended a gray primer with their 'super' paint. Most definitely. Reds are in my experience the most difficult color. You'd think that because the color is so dark that it will cover well, but the exact opposite is true. I don't know the exact reason, but I'd reason that it's due to red having a ton more pigment in the base than anything else. The gray primer fills the gap. I don't know about Sherwin Williams specifically, but I have first-hand experience with Behr, and I found the paint to be absolute garbage. Three coats to cover what Ben Moore did in two, a better finish, things like that. The other thing is that when you get Behr paint at Home Depot, you get paint from someone who maybe spent a day in training. With Ben Moore (and possibly SW, I don't know where you get it), I can go to my paint and wallpaper store and can talk to someone who was a painter before she opened the store. I will gladly spend $40 a gallon if it means that I don't have to roll an extra coat and still have it look like dog poo poo.
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May 15, 2010 23:23
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Yeah I'd primer it, the beige will cover up real easy, and if you're going burgundy a gray primer coat will help keep the color dark and accurate. Sounds like a winner to me.
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May 15, 2010 23:30
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i've hosed a usb key that has something fairly important on it. Should have had it backed up i know but i can't do that now. Basically upon cracking it open it seems that knocking the key has bent the connectors and they are now all detached from where they were soldered. I've tried bending them back and holding them down with a plastic card but it isn't working. any suggestions?
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May 17, 2010 18:37
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Ended up going with Sherwin Williams. The burgundy turned out pretty good after a gray primer and 2 coats of their Super Paint. Unfortunately it didn't come out as red as we had hoped, but after the second coat we're fairly happy with it. Unfortunately we went over on a few spots and I need to clean up a bit. I was able to contact the painters who had painted the house previously and know what they used, so it shouldn't be too hard. I'll post up pictures once I'm done. Thanks to everyone for the advice; although expensive the Sherwin Williams paint was definitely worth it.
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May 17, 2010 18:42
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Lyric Proof Vest posted:i've hosed a usb key that has something fairly important on it. Should have had it backed up i know but i can't do that now. Basically upon cracking it open it seems that knocking the key has bent the connectors and they are now all detached from where they were soldered. I've tried bending them back and holding them down with a plastic card but it isn't working. any suggestions? Could you post some closeup pictures? We need to see how much work it would take.
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May 17, 2010 18:58
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Lyric Proof Vest posted:i've hosed a usb key that has something fairly important on it. Should have had it backed up i know but i can't do that now. Basically upon cracking it open it seems that knocking the key has bent the connectors and they are now all detached from where they were soldered. I've tried bending them back and holding them down with a plastic card but it isn't working. any suggestions? If you don't have soldering gear, you want to find someone who has a soldering station and get them to re-solder the broken joints. It's a pretty easy 5-minute job for anyone who has experience with through-hole or SMT soldering. I don't recommend trying to bend / hold it in place because if the connection becomes loose during file transfer you may lose data.
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May 17, 2010 19:02
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kid sinister posted:Could you post some closeup pictures? We need to see how much work it would take.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. not really great but those four tabs are off the bits of solder below them
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May 17, 2010 19:08
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Lyric Proof Vest posted:not really great but those four tabs are off the bits of solder below them All you need to do is heat the tabs up with a soldering iron, so that the solder melts a bit and sticks back to the contacts. It just takes a fine-tip soldering point and a bit of steady hand. Anyone with an iron who knows how to solder should be able to fix this in a few minutes. If you want to fix it yourself, you can get a cheap radio shack adjustable soldering iron for ~$10 and do it yourself. Just heat it up enough so the solder liquefies, and when it cools it should be making contact. Be careful not to melt an of the other components.
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May 17, 2010 19:23
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stash posted:All you need to do is heat the tabs up with a soldering iron, so that the solder melts a bit and sticks back to the contacts. It just takes a fine-tip soldering point and a bit of steady hand. Anyone with an iron who knows how to solder should be able to fix this in a few minutes. If you want to fix it yourself, you can get a cheap radio shack adjustable soldering iron for ~$10 and do it yourself. Just heat it up enough so the solder liquefies, and when it cools it should be making contact. Be careful not to melt an of the other components. i'll give this a crack and if it doesn't work i'll just see if i can take it to one of the electrical shops along totenham court road tomorrow and get it fixed there edit: well they are touching now and no dice, gently caress Loving Africa Chaps fucked around with this message at 19:47 on May 17, 2010 |
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May 17, 2010 19:26
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What the hell kind of audio connection is this its on an old, old recordable phonograph
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May 17, 2010 21:00
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