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EvilMoFo posted:the rear brakes are about gone on my 2003 325i, what should I put on there? I am looking at tirerack and can not make up my mind as to which to get You don't need to replace the sensor if it hasn't been tripped. I'd personally stick with Ate/OE pads if you're not going to do all the pads and just the rears, as that is likely what is on the front. Edit: And do yourself a favor and save some money: Pads Sensor Doctor Grape Ape fucked around with this message at 21:57 on May 7, 2010 |
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May 7, 2010 21:51
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VibrioCholera posted:Odd. So those (for the price) would be pretty much the stickiest street tire I can obtain? For that price, yes. There are definitely stickier street tires available, but they'll cost more and that 19" factor limits what's available. You might also want to check out: Bridgestone RE-11, Yokohama Advan Neova, and Toyo Proxes R888. All of those are sticker, available in some 19" sizes, but cost more. I've been running the Hankooks on my M3 as a dual purpose street/HPDE car. I'm very happy with the tire considering the price. If I ever get a set of dedicated track wheels, though, I'd put something stickier on.
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May 7, 2010 22:57
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EvilMoFo posted:the rear brakes are about gone on my 2003 325i, what should I put on there? I am looking at tirerack and can not make up my mind as to which to get I like Axxis (aka PBR) Ultimates for a street pad. I was able to get them cheaper than OEM pads, too.
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May 7, 2010 22:59
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Nostrum posted:It does look like that, but the oil fill cap is on the passenger's side and the the similar looking thing on the driver's side is the positive jump terminal. *ding* Licht An? 
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May 8, 2010 01:10
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SlapActionJackson posted:For that price, yes. There are definitely stickier street tires available, but they'll cost more and that 19" factor limits what's available. You might also want to check out: Bridgestone RE-11, Yokohama Advan Neova, and Toyo Proxes R888. All of those are sticker, available in some 19" sizes, but cost more. I've heard they also settle in cooler climates, due to the higher nylon count, so you get wobble for a few minutes in the morning. Confirm/deny? (Hankook v12s 18" are probably my next e46 M3 update in a few weeks).
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May 8, 2010 03:36
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Bit of an odd problem at hand with my 1985 325e and engine skipping/missing. Problem began intermittently and now it is always there with load, without load, WOT, or idle. The motor is basically skipping (I can hear it puffing from the exhaust). It started with a puff with what seemed like every few random cycles of the crank, but now it's a steady pop, pop, pop. When I am driving it, it hesitates very badly and starts bucking. It's basically undrivable now due to a complete lack of power. Things I have tried swapping with my spare 87 325es): Spark plugs (<6mo old), swapped anyways Plug Wires (Swapped from donor car) Cap/Rotor (Cleaned then swapped from donor car) Ignition Coil (<1 yr old, swapped anyways) Mass Airflow Sensor (swapped) Switched from aftermarket chip to OEM (this gave me significantly less power) I checked values on the Crank Position and Speed sensor (bellhousing), they're within tolerance (1200ohms~ and 100,000~ ohms). I've even removed the TDC sensor, no change there either. I then even went and did a valve adjustment fearing a loose rocker; they were all within .001" of spec. I then got a timing light, hooked it up to 1st plug wire, and it seems like the hash marks line up (apparently I can't manual advance/retard the timing on this motor, and I saw a youtube of what a timing belt off by one tooth would do which would be straight up backfiring every compression stroke?) I then tried disconnecting the O2 sensor to get a stock map going and it could be placebo effect, but I think it got worse. I plugged that back in. I've sprayed carb cleaner in a last ditch effort hoping for a vacuum leak. I am at a total loss as to what to try next. If you think it has a high chance of being the problem, but I attempted to correct it, I'll try and do it again with whatever advice is given. Edit: Just swapped ECUs to no avail fartingfool fucked around with this message at 05:26 on May 8, 2010 |
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May 8, 2010 04:40
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madrugan posted:I've heard they also settle in cooler climates, due to the higher nylon count, so you get wobble for a few minutes in the morning. Confirm/deny? (Hankook v12s 18" are probably my next e46 M3 update in a few weeks). I live in Texas, so I have no idea what these tires do in cooler climates. They were fine down to 40ish degrees that we see for lows occasionally in March. I certainly wouldn't run them as winter tires in places that have a real winter.
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May 8, 2010 04:44
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fartingfool posted:Bit of an odd problem at hand with my 1985 325e and engine skipping/missing. Maybe an injector died on you? That's the only thing left to check that I can think of on the M20
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May 8, 2010 10:09
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EvilMoFo posted:the rear brakes are about gone on my 2003 325i, what should I put on there? I am looking at tirerack and can not make up my mind as to which to get Buy the sensor from RMeuropean.com or AZautohaus.com Probably the best price on brake rotors: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=584353 Request a quote shipped to your zipcode, pay with paypal. Vendor also has a similar threads for bilstein suspensions and brake pads.
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May 9, 2010 01:24
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e36 guys: http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-1998-BMW-3-Series-sports-package-Coupe-2-door-W0QQAdIdZ203783500 I'm going to try and go look at this car. I love my e30 but the lack of A/C and power windows makes for a terrible summer car. I still plan on getting it fixed for a winter car (best AWD I've ever used) but I want something a little more comfortable for summer. What are the common issues to look for (especially points of rust, halifax is salt hell)? I know the price will probably seem high but that is a reasonable price for a 328 around here, assuming it is in tip-top shape. It's loving impossible to find a nice one, every idiot seems to think putting on the m3 bodykit makes it look good.
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May 9, 2010 02:24
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So if I were to take my cylinder head to a machine shop, should any decent shop be able to do it? Or should I look for one that has BMW experience? There are a couple decent independent shops around here I suppose I could ask for a recommendation as well? How would I prep it? Just take the whole thing, valves and all in? Is that part of the inspecting/cleaning portion of it? Can I reliably check the head myself for warping or would it be better to just take it to a shop at the very least to get cleaned and checked?
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May 9, 2010 03:28
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Crustashio posted:e36 guys: Well I went and checked it out today. Pretty good condition. Body is dent and scratch free, although the flip up part of the center console is worn. All the power accessories seem to work (tested the auto-up on the windows and such). There is a tiny bit of rust on the inside of the wheel well. Drove great, no wierd engine sounds, no alignment or brake issues. Guy is the original owner, and has had it maintained at the local BMW dealership who are expensive as hell but good. The airbag light is on and he said that is going to get looked at tomorrow. The only real big issue seemed to be the ABS light. According to him the ABS light is on and the dealership said it would take a new computer to fix. I honestly don't really want ABS, but I don't want it to be a symptom of some impending failure in the near future.
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May 9, 2010 20:01
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wav3form posted:What about still using screws but filling them with jb weld or something? That would also work. However, it's almost too irreversible. If you drill the heads off the rivets, you can still remove it. a JB welded screw would probably prove to be almost impossible to remove if you ever needed to.
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May 9, 2010 20:07
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Crustashio posted:Well I went and checked it out today. Pretty good condition. Body is dent and scratch free, although the flip up part of the center console is worn. All the power accessories seem to work (tested the auto-up on the windows and such). There is a tiny bit of rust on the inside of the wheel well. Drove great, no wierd engine sounds, no alignment or brake issues. E36 ABS is loving awesome. Hands-down, best ABS I've ever experienced. Worth it to fix it, whatever the problem may be--I don't think it's a prevalent problem, so you should have it checked by a shop first.
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May 9, 2010 20:44
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Cross-post from the Craigslist thread: What do you guys think of this? I've been communicating with the seller and he says there is no rust and that there are no mechanical problems. The only thing that worries me is the mileage, but the price seems very good. New ignition, new alternator, oil changed every 3k. http://lancaster.craigslist.org/cto/1725051905.html  Click here for the full 1024x600 image.
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May 9, 2010 21:37
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Thanks for the help everyone, just before I got probated for not reading the rules  I bought a Carfax on my chosen 330i, which came out clean. I ended up buying it and received it on Tuesday. Its been a glorious few days, and I even got it detailed professionally so it was clean as hell. The paint is great, and the leather is in good condition as well. The power is amazing, and I gun it sometimes just to hear that sweet sweet straight six and that exhaust, which is throaty but not boomy, just perfect. The only option it doesn't have is the cold weather package, and the nav works pretty well for a 2001 car. I like the color - could someone tell me the official name for this color? 
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May 9, 2010 21:46
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BraveUlysses posted:E36 ABS is loving awesome. Hands-down, best ABS I've ever experienced. Worth it to fix it, whatever the problem may be--I don't think it's a prevalent problem, so you should have it checked by a shop first. He seemed to think it was the control module (he said computer, but this is the type of guy who simply has the dealer take care of everything, including oil changes). He went on a huge rant about how ABS "caused him an accident" so I think when it went he just decided not to fix it. Either way the car felt great and I can't really find any reason to pass it up. I haven't seen a clean 325/328 in 6 months (esp. not one with the sport suspension and a 5-speed + winter tires/rims) and it doesn't really have any flaws that tingle my spidey senses.
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May 9, 2010 22:38
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fartingfool posted:Bit of an odd problem at hand with my 1985 325e and engine skipping/missing. Verify the intake boot has no cracks in it by taking it completely off and inspecting it. Verify the fuel lines/fuel fitler/fuel pump.
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May 9, 2010 22:49
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Scrubed posted:Verify the intake boot has no cracks in it by taking it completely off and inspecting it. Verify the fuel lines/fuel fitler/fuel pump. Intake boot, fuel lines, fuel filter are all less than a year old. I hear the pump whirring away. These are words of encouragement for it being fuel related though. Is it possible to still have a distinct smell of gas and foglike exhaust if it's not getting fuel correctly? Beach Bum posted:Maybe an injector died on you? That's the only thing left to check that I can think of on the M20 I'm going to try this next. I just checked all of my ignition wiring for correct resistance, that's all within spec as well so this is the only thing left to try. My friend suggested a website that sells a set of six, professionally rebuilt, and tested injectors for $70?
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May 9, 2010 23:21
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Mark Larson posted:I like the color - could someone tell me the official name for this color? It looks like Topaz Blue Metallic. Try lifting the hood and looking in the engine bay- there should be a label on the driver's side strut tower that has the paint color in German.
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May 10, 2010 01:56
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Mark Larson posted:I like the color - could someone tell me the official name for this color? Steel Blue Metallic. Looks great! Take care of it and enjoy it!
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May 10, 2010 02:06
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Brock Landers posted:Steel Blue Metallic. Looks great! Take care of it and enjoy it! Thank you! Silly question time: Does anyone know of any tricks for refurbishing the car keys? The sole key I got has seen better days and the dealer wants $200 for a new one. If I could just get the plastic casing replaced, I would be happy.
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May 10, 2010 07:26
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325i won't start - what to do? My 1988 325i was running fine when I last used it on Thursday. This morning I tried to start but nothing happened. When I turn the key, there isn't any of that "chug-chug-chug" noise as it tries to start. The batteries seem fine -- lights etc. all work well. Does anyone have a link to some kind of troubleshooting procedure, please? How should I diagnose and fix this?
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May 10, 2010 15:08
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Sounds like you lost a relay
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May 10, 2010 15:44
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If you can't hear the starter whining then that would probably be the first place to start looking for issues
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May 10, 2010 15:56
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Mark Larson posted:Thank you! Silly question time: Does anyone know of any tricks for refurbishing the car keys? The sole key I got has seen better days and the dealer wants $200 for a new one. If I could just get the plastic casing replaced, I would be happy. You can try looking for a new casing on ebay, but you risk damaging your key. I would get another key from the dealer for emergencies anyway. If you just want to get an emergency key, you can get the wallet / valet key for about $80. It's a small plastic key which is not designed for frequent use and it doesn't have a remote built into it, but it's a good spare for emergencies and such.
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May 10, 2010 16:01
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ozziegt posted:It's a small plastic key which is not designed for frequent use
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May 10, 2010 18:43
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I just replaced the three green base bulbs in my gauge cluster which according to Pelican are for the analog gauges. I still have dim spots in both my tach and speedo. Anyone know what's up? I was thinking maybe my cluster is damaged internally and needs to be replaced.
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May 10, 2010 21:38
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Apparently the ABS sensor needs replacing, but the seller agreed to knock off the price that BMW quoted for parts+labour. It shall be mine on wednesday. Now I need to get my stupid e30 running. Hopefully a newer car won't be as horrible a moneypit.
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May 10, 2010 21:58
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revmoo posted:I just replaced the three green base bulbs in my gauge cluster which according to Pelican are for the analog gauges. I still have dim spots in both my tach and speedo. You drive a later model like an e36 right? Do the SI clusters go bad in your car like they notoriously do in the e30? If so... low grade fix... hit the top of the dash with your palm (or in my case rattle your teeth on a pot hole) or look into getting a new board/resoldering the joins.
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May 11, 2010 04:22
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fartingfool posted:Intake boot, fuel lines, fuel filter are all less than a year old. I hear the pump whirring away. These are words of encouragement for it being fuel related though. Is it possible to still have a distinct smell of gas and foglike exhaust if it's not getting fuel correctly? Fuel, air, spark would be my three culprits in your situation. You've pretty much narrowed it down to fuel from your tests.
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May 11, 2010 04:30
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Let's talk diff fluid! My E36 is likely on its original fluid, and at 183k miles, I'd hate to see what damage it might be doing to my diff. The dealer has BMW synthetic for $21.60 per half liter. I've also seen Redline 75W90 synthetic recommended, which (with shipping) is $29.85 from bavauto, or $30.63 from CDOC Race Supply on Amazon. Which is recommended and can I get it any cheaper?
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May 11, 2010 14:49
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CornHolio posted:
Believe it or not, if I remember correctly Advance Auto Parts was pretty reasonable on ordering me some Redline. It would be worth it to at least give them a call (or whoever is local),
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May 11, 2010 15:01
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Redline has lots of local dealers, should be able to get two liters/qts no problem (gotta love only needing 1.1qts 
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May 11, 2010 17:44
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CornHolio posted:Let's talk diff fluid! Autozone: Mobil 1 75/140 (maybe 80/140? either way, the 140 is the important bit). If you have a limited slip make sure it says it's compatible, that's all there is to it, no reason to put Redline in the rear end. Edit: Really anything is fine in the diff as long as it's new, I have never seen a diff go bad from just daily use. BMW used to recommend 75W90 but changed to 75W140 factory fill, on an E36 it's really up to you. Doctor Grape Ape fucked around with this message at 18:49 on May 11, 2010 |
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May 11, 2010 18:46
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Autozone: Mobil 1 75/140 (maybe 80/140? either way, the 140 is the important bit). If you have a limited slip make sure it says it's compatible, that's all there is to it, no reason to put Redline in the rear end. Huh. According to Mike Miller (BMWCCA) in his latest 'oldschool maintenance schedule': quote:Differential Oil: Every 30,000 miles I have an open diff, and if Mobil 1 is good stuff I'll use it, but I think I should stick with the 75W90 weight. (p.s. sorry about the formatting, that's copy and pasted from the PDF and I don't feel like reformatting every single line).
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May 11, 2010 19:01
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Am I the only one without side marker lights on their E36? I thought that was a legal requirement here in the states. I even have bundled wiring for them under the hood. Just threw a new 02 sensor on my car, holy crap it needed it. It probably gained back 20-30 hp, and the engine runs a lot smoother now. It used to judder a little bit at very low speeds, like coming up to a turn, no longer. Also it was a very easy job, 15 minutes or so. I used a crowfoot wrench to pull the old one off.
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May 11, 2010 19:44
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revmoo posted:Am I the only one without side marker lights on their E36? I thought that was a legal requirement here in the states. I even have bundled wiring for them under the hood. My new E36: 
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May 11, 2010 19:58
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heh I thought the camera reflecting in your door was a dent for a minute
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May 11, 2010 20:07
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I love that color, I wish mine was green instead of maroon (calypsorot)
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May 11, 2010 20:08
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