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Make sure you have all the power plugs needed for the new card before you go to switch them out. Sometimes the newer, faster cards require a 6 pin power connector (looking at some random brands of ATi HD 4650 your apparently does). If he threw away his Y adapter and your PS is an older one with no connector it could be a pain.
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May 5, 2010 00:42
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The only 4650s with external power connectors are AGP.
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May 5, 2010 00:59
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This is driving me daffy. In my building, we have free wifi. My netbook can connect. My Ipod can connect. My fiancee's laptop can connect. And until last week, my desktop could connect. It always had the weakest reception of all our devices but recently it detects the network and sometime connects but the reception is so poor I can't go online. I've moved the case around, repositioned the antenna, disabled and reenabled the card, and I have no luck. It's a mid level D-Link card. I can set the netbook next to the PC and get a strong signal. What do I do, short of getting a top level card?
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May 5, 2010 01:15
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Currently looking for a rack-mounted, good and reliable 24 port managed switch that has flow control and support Jumbo Frames. What do you guys recommend? Edit: If it had two Power independant power supplies, it would be even better. Cyberdud fucked around with this message at 19:23 on May 5, 2010 |
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May 5, 2010 18:58
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oneof27 posted:This is driving me daffy. Have you tried reinstalling its drivers? It's probably just busted. Try a cheap USB receiver, see if that works?
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May 7, 2010 21:44
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I have a GTX 9800 and a GTX260 graphics card. Can I put them in my computer together? I have 2 slots for graphics cards. Not sure if you need this info or not: Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit (6.1, Build 7600) (7600.win7_gdr.100226-1909) Language: English (Regional Setting: English) System Manufacturer: System manufacturer System Model: P5K BIOS: BIOS Date: 12/24/07 11:21:23 Ver: 08.00.12 Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU Q6600 @ 2.40GHz (4 CPUs), ~2.4GHz Memory: 8192MB RAM
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May 8, 2010 17:38
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Why would you want to? You could use the other card for PhysX or something but that's largely a gimmick and you'll have much higher heat and power consumption for flying paper. Otherwise just sell it.
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May 8, 2010 17:55
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I'm looking to get a new wireless N receiver for my desktop, upgrading from my current internal wireless G receiver. My first instinct was to get an internal PCI card like my current one and not a USB receiver but I don't really know if it makes a big difference. It's getting harder to find the internal ones outside of the internet. Is there a reason to get a PCI card instead of USB?
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May 9, 2010 00:33
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Likely a stupid question, but I can't find a clear answer anywhere. How do I know if a video card can support two monitors at 1920x1080 (or any resolution, for that matter)? Specs never seem to mention anything in this department.
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May 9, 2010 21:25
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Robo-Pope posted:Likely a stupid question, but I can't find a clear answer anywhere. I could be wrong here, but I'm pretty sure that basically if it has the ports it will drive them. VGA and DVI can drive up to 1920x1200. Any resolution beyond that requires display port or Dual Link DVI. But those are limitations of the connector and not the card. So if your card has the ports, it will drive them. Drasing a desktop isn't actually that hard for a monitor.
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May 9, 2010 21:50
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Did That on Television posted:I know more precisely what I'm looking for: I just need something that can extend the range that my laptop's wireless can pick up. Is there anything this simple and relatively cheap (under $40, say)? I want to connect to a public, insecure connection near my house but in a stable way and it's juuust out of reach to be stable and consistent. It seems most of the things that say they boost ranges do so for home networks and that's not what I want -- I just want something that works with the Windows wireless stuff... but makes me able to pick up connections further away from me. Oh, and if it's not something that can be bought at a physical store, it should at least ship to Canada. http://www.cantenna.com/ 
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May 9, 2010 22:38
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Audigy SE on win98se, yes/no. As far as I can tell no?
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May 10, 2010 00:39
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SRQ posted:Audigy SE on win98se, yes/no. See if you can find Windows ME drivers for it, they should work.
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May 10, 2010 05:41
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SRQ posted:Audigy SE on win98se, yes/no. OK, my curiosity is piqued. Why?
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May 10, 2010 14:56
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Steve Moore posted:OK, my curiosity is piqued. Why? I assume he's doing like a lot of people do, and rigging up a Windows 98 PC from old parts to use for old games and such without the hassle of dealing with virtualizing games that require hardware acceleration for video and the like.
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May 10, 2010 16:56
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My Macbook (newer one with the multi-touch pad) occasionally has a vertical band of black static (kinda looks like a TV that isn't getting a signal). I've gathered that this has happened to people in the past, but everything I've found is dated like 2 years ago. I just need to know what the possible fix is, what I need to say to the apple people if I go to see them, and what I am expecting in terms of cost.
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May 10, 2010 17:26
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Is there a utility that one can use to detect which of the 11 2.4Ghz channels is the least-noisy, or is it a matter of trial and error with lots of testing and router resets?
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May 10, 2010 18:44
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Turnquiet posted:Is there a utility that one can use to detect which of the 11 2.4Ghz channels is the least-noisy, or is it a matter of trial and error with lots of testing and router resets? Network Stumbler: http://www.netstumbler.com/downloads/ is great for this. Put it on a laptop, tell it to scan, and then walk around the area you need your wi-fi to be usable in, and it reports back how many other access points are nearby, what channel they're on, and how strong their signal is. From there you can work out what channels have the lest other routers on them, and how strong interfering networks will be.
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May 10, 2010 19:29
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A friend is trying to offload one of his old towers on me, and we're both trying to figure out how much it's worth as a friendship deal. Regardless of power (it was top of the line three years ago), what would you say is the absolute maximum to pay for it? The thing is, he had already bought it used. I'm not trying to find out the actual market value, just some idea of a price range.
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May 11, 2010 09:21
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In a specification vacuum it's hard to say. Is this a gaming system or just a regular desktop? You can put together a basic desktop with a X2 240 and onboard graphics which is faster than anything in 2007 for about $350-$450, so I'd say $250-$300 is fair, maybe adding $50-$75 if it has a licensed copy of Windows 7. If it's a gaming system with something like a 8800GTX, I'd probably pay no more than $500, and that's only really because RAM prices etc have gone up so that you can no longer get a nice 4850 desktop for that price. Same caveat with the OS. If you mean "three years ago" exactly as in before Core 2 launched, though, it's probably old enough that you could half both of those prices and still be paying quite a bit more than it's worth. Netburst sucked.
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May 11, 2010 09:28
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Srebrenica Surprise posted:In a specification vacuum it's hard to say. Is this a gaming system or just a regular desktop? You can put together a basic desktop with a X2 240 and onboard graphics which is faster than anything in 2007 for about $350-$450, so I'd say $250-$300 is fair, maybe adding $50-$75 if it has a licensed copy of Windows 7. If it's a gaming system with something like a 8800GTX, I'd probably pay no more than $500, and that's only really because RAM prices etc have gone up so that you can no longer get a nice 4850 desktop for that price. Same caveat with the OS. It's a gaming system (reasonably powerful at the time), and for several reasons it's quite hard for me (or him, for that matter) to find out exact specs right now - would 350$ for Core 2, 300$ without make sense? OS not included. Again, just trying to find something we can both agree on without feeling cheated.
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May 11, 2010 09:36
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I can't imagine it being worth it if it's not a Core 2 system - the main difference really is that even the shittiest Core 2s back in the day still form a really nice upgrade path now and for the conceivable future just by a new GPU, whereas the Pentium Ds and high end P4s are a huge bottleneck to modern graphics cards. $350 is maybe a little low, but since it doesn't have the OS and that's about $100 on top, I'd say that's fair.
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May 11, 2010 09:49
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Great, thanks for the speedy response!
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May 11, 2010 10:05
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I have an HP Pavilion a6244n and I am replacing a NVidia Geforce 8800gt with an ATI radeon 5770 HD. I've replaced my old power supply with a Corsair 650w power supply and when I hook everything up I get no video source to the monitor through DVI. The computer is powering on and the DVD drive is getting power but I can't confirm if the Hard Drive and graphics card are powering up properly since nothing comes up. Am I missing something simple as far as compatibility or is it possible there is something wrong with the new graphics card I bought?
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May 12, 2010 02:01
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Did you plug the power connector into the new video card?
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May 12, 2010 03:11
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Schurik posted:Great, thanks for the speedy response! Don't be in a rush to buy it just because he's a friend. You don't even know the specs and you're asking us how much it could be worth!
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May 12, 2010 03:16
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Fremry posted:My Macbook (newer one with the multi-touch pad) occasionally has a vertical band of black static (kinda looks like a TV that isn't getting a signal). I've gathered that this has happened to people in the past, but everything I've found is dated like 2 years ago. Lines across an LCD panel almost always indicate a fault with the panel. It's probably not anything else. A fault with a display cable will usually cause the screen to go completely white when the connection cuts out (or completely black if the backlight signal cuts out with it). Problems with the GPU will show as one-pixel screen artifacts, crashes or the inability to boot. On a PC, this is usually a $70-100 part if you're replacing a 1280x800 screen. On a current gen MacBook (1440x900?), you could be looking at triple or quadruple that. I have no idea what Apple charges for labor. If you're wondering what to tell the technician, just tell the truth. Your problem can show up whether the computer is abused or not. Zorilla fucked around with this message at 05:23 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 12, 2010 05:12
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Can you guys recommend some brands/companies who make quality network storage equipment? Or direct me to some reviews, forums ect? I'm thinking either NAS or just an external HD conneted to the router. I wouldn't mind powering it up for every use, since I only need it for data backup. I have no idea what brand to look for or if I should avoid certain pitfalls. Thanks in advance!
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May 12, 2010 07:49
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Boll posted:Can you guys recommend some brands/companies who make quality network storage equipment? Or direct me to some reviews, forums ect? I'm thinking either NAS or just an external HD conneted to the router. http://smallnetbuilder.com is a pretty good site for consumer-oriented networking equipment. There's also a pretty useful NAS Megathread
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May 12, 2010 09:06
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Mark Larson posted:Don't be in a rush to buy it just because he's a friend. You don't even know the specs and you're asking us how much it could be worth! I know, definitely not doing that. Just wanted to get an general idea so we have a discussion basis.
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May 12, 2010 09:22
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BorderPatrol posted:http://smallnetbuilder.com is a pretty good site for consumer-oriented networking equipment. Ahh. I ran my eyes over the first couple of pages, but must have missed the thread. Thank you for the links! 
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May 12, 2010 11:36
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Can people recommend me a small <100GB external hard-drive that's reliable/pleasantly cheap? There are millions of products out there, and I'm really about to just head to Fry's to pick one up, but wanted to see if anyone in SH/SC could weigh in. Thanks.
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May 12, 2010 19:55
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Just Another XY posted:Can people recommend me a small <100GB external hard-drive that's reliable/pleasantly cheap? What are you looking to do with it, and what's your budget? Small external hard drives are never going to be incredibly reliable. That goes triple if you're carrying it around all over the place, because they're full of delicate mechanical bits. The laptop hard drives inside them can take a surprising amount of abuse, given the mechanical precision involved, but you're still looking at something pretty delicate. If you're after portability, I'd strongly consider looking at a flash drive in the 32-64 gig range. You'll pay more, but there's no way that mechanical drives can match their size or shock resistance. Otherwise, get whatever's on sale with a decent warranty; as long as you avoid the really cheap poo poo with dodgy controllers, you'll be fine. Never, ever keep the only copy of any data you care about in the slightest on an external hard drive, though. Space Gopher fucked around with this message at 20:15 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 12, 2010 20:13
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So I knew computers back in, oh, 2002 or so.. But now, theres too many numbers, and I don't fully understand how some 512 video cards are better than some 1 gig video cards.. Anywho, I'm looking for a logical, if fairly inexpensive, upgrade from my current GeForce 8600 GT 1gig video card. I should probably note that my monitor is DVI, and while my motherboard/cooling system is set up to run 2 video cards, I'm only using one. Any I should specifically look for/specifically avoid? Thanks in advance.
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May 12, 2010 20:39
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TShields posted:So I knew computers back in, oh, 2002 or so.. But now, theres too many numbers, and I don't fully understand how some 512 video cards are better than some 1 gig video cards.. Anywho, I'm looking for a logical, if fairly inexpensive, upgrade from my current GeForce 8600 GT 1gig video card. I should probably note that my monitor is DVI, and while my motherboard/cooling system is set up to run 2 video cards, I'm only using one. Any I should specifically look for/specifically avoid? Thanks in advance.
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May 12, 2010 20:45
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strwrsxprt posted:Look at the stickied parts picking thread. Give us a budget and monitor size and gaming habits or we can't recommend anything. Sorry- I missed that thread! I'll just move my post over there, thanks!
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May 12, 2010 20:50
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Just Another XY posted:Can people recommend me a small <100GB external hard-drive that's reliable/pleasantly cheap? I have a WD MyPassport that's served me pretty well over the years, although on the other hand I also have a WD MyBook that's an absolute piece of poo poo so they might not be the most consistent brand. As was said though I don't know why you'd want an external HDD if you only need <100GB storage, they generally have larger capacity than that these days with the smaller storage niche filled by flash drives.
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May 13, 2010 02:47
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TShields posted:So I knew computers back in, oh, 2002 or so.. But now, theres too many numbers, and I don't fully understand how some 512 video cards are better than some 1 gig video cards.. Anywho, I'm looking for a logical, if fairly inexpensive, upgrade from my current GeForce 8600 GT 1gig video card. I should probably note that my monitor is DVI, and while my motherboard/cooling system is set up to run 2 video cards, I'm only using one. Any I should specifically look for/specifically avoid? Thanks in advance. The most important component in a video card isn't the amount of RAM; it's the processor. RAM is a necessary component of performance, but it's not sufficient by itself. Slapping a large amount of cheap RAM onto a slow video card has been a marketing trick for quite a while now, and it sounds like you might have fallen for it with that 1 gig 8600GT, too. Follow strwrsxprt's advice and stop by the parts picking thread.
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May 13, 2010 03:43
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Should I be concerned that my relatively new i5-750 computer experienced massive slowdown while watching a (non-HD) youtube video? The video and sound continued to play fine but opening the task manager or even the start menu took a good couple of seconds. Rebooting fixed it but I'm a little concerned. I leave my computer on most of the time overnight, should I be turning it off?
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May 13, 2010 04:44
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Away all Goats posted:Should I be concerned that my relatively new i5-750 computer experienced massive slowdown while watching a (non-HD) youtube video? The video and sound continued to play fine but opening the task manager or even the start menu took a good couple of seconds. Rebooting fixed it but I'm a little concerned. Your computer shouldn't have any problems playing video, even HD. But if it has only happened the one time and went away when you rebooted, it probably isn't a problem. Windows may have just picked the same time to do some sort of a a background task that slowed everything down. It doesn't really matter to the computer if you shut it down every night or leave it running. You should at least put it to sleep though, just to save on electricity.
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May 13, 2010 21:44
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