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Ketchup Red because Iyanden Darksun is the color of spicy mustard
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May 14, 2010 18:12
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It's yellow, isn't it, so some kind of purple. Maybe a pale purple.
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May 14, 2010 18:15
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enri posted:for some reason I read this as "...and you can lick it" Funny you say, I picked a tube up today. Will report back.
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May 14, 2010 18:35
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Aetilus posted:in color theory, what color would have the best contrast with iyanden darksun? Color theory says purple, but really any cool color would work.
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May 14, 2010 18:50
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Aetilus posted:in color theory, what color would have the best contrast with iyanden darksun? Technically blue. Or purple. Whatever.
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May 14, 2010 18:55
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For picking contrasting colors, think about what would be the most opposite. For primary colors (RYB), it'd be the combination of the other two primaries. For secondary colors (GPO), it'd be the primary color not used to construct that color.
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May 14, 2010 19:00
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 Straight across is considered complimentary, which in theory is the most contrast. Contrast is also created with value shifts though, so sometimes a dark cool + a light warm (or vice versa) is more striking than complimentary of similar values, which tend to make the eye jump back and forth and look "busy"
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May 14, 2010 19:03
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Since my bane knights/thralls major colors are bone yellow and gold, I guess I'll make their robes purple to contrast? I think it might look alright.
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May 14, 2010 19:27
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Or a really dark blue. Necron abyss dark. The intensity of the colour difference should make everything pop. Its the reason why my crimson fists are on snow bases; not because im lazy, I swear!
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May 14, 2010 19:52
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Plotterboy posted:Or a really dark blue. Necron abyss dark. The intensity of the colour difference should make everything pop. Its the reason why my crimson fists are on snow bases; not because im lazy, I swear! Pretty much what I was thinking. The only other part I'm iffy on now is what color to paint their skulls since so much of my scheme is already bone. I'm thinking painting them white and washing them with green and calling it good after a few highlights.
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May 14, 2010 22:11
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crime fighting hog posted:Pretty much what I was thinking. The only other part I'm iffy on now is what color to paint their skulls since so much of my scheme is already bone. I'm thinking painting them white and washing them with green and calling it good after a few highlights. Maybe a Green-Gray?
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May 15, 2010 00:43
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No Pun Intended posted:Maybe a Green-Gray? I decided a gold skull on this one. I'll post pics once he's done and if it sucks that bad I'll go back over with green
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May 15, 2010 00:45
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Smashy Smashy!  With a heretic hating power hammer! 
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May 15, 2010 01:48
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Tony Stark was able to build this IN A CAVE! With a BOX OF SCRAPS!!  New sculpts from knights models.
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May 15, 2010 05:48
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I ordered Jeremiah Crowe (Smog 1888) from maelstrom and it is now the weekend so I've had a chance to start getting him cleaned and assembled. Here are some post wash, pre-clean up pics / a chance to show off the kit  Click here for the full 1280x1014 image.  Click here for the full 1310x777 image. Overall it is really nicely made, the resin has some minor bubbles. There are some crazy thin parts too. My only major complaint so far is that huge spout you see on the collar, broke out the back when I tried to remove it and it needed to be glued back on. No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 07:39 on May 15, 2010 |
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May 15, 2010 05:54
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No Pun Intended posted:I ordered Jeremiah Crowe (Smog 1888) from maelstrom and it is now the weekend so I've had a chance to start getting him cleaned and assembled. I have never seen a Forgeworld model straight out of the bag in as good condition as those seem to be. Every single loving piece has bubbles and malformations. Forgeworld is a terrible company owned and run by terrible people. Bullet Proof posted:Tony Stark was able to build this IN A CAVE! With a BOX OF SCRAPS!! 
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May 15, 2010 10:31
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It isn't perfect, there are some bubbles to fill and the residual of the spout on the neck took me ages to remove. Turns out what I thought was molded detail on the base of the neck was actually extra resin so I had to sand that back to get the head to fit. I can't speak for Forgeworld's quality as the only product I have got for them is my Mega Dredd and apart from what you'd expect from the casting process there isn't anything majorly defective.
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May 15, 2010 10:53
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No Pun Intended posted:It isn't perfect, there are some bubbles to fill and the residual of the spout on the neck took me ages to remove. Turns out what I thought was molded detail on the base of the neck was actually extra resin so I had to sand that back to get the head to fit. either you've been extraordinarily lucky or I've been unfathomably unlucky then
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May 15, 2010 11:30
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Captain Invictus posted:either you've been extraordinarily lucky or I've been unfathomably unlucky then I think you've been unlucky, I've assembled a ven dread, about 6 sets of arms and the nob bikers and only ever seen one casting defect.
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May 15, 2010 12:32
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Captain Invictus posted:either you've been extraordinarily lucky or I've been unfathomably unlucky then You are just unlucky. I've ordered tons of FW kits and the only issue I ever had was once a minor detail chipped off of a turret in shipping.
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May 15, 2010 14:06
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Bullet Proof posted:Tony Stark was able to build this IN A CAVE! With a BOX OF SCRAPS!! Is it just me or does this just not look chunky enough? Cool, but a bit anorexic.
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May 15, 2010 14:11
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Help Airbrush Please! I've read the post linked in the OP. Got a proper compressor, an airbrush (dual action gravity fed) and a respirator. Today was my first time using the thing. First, I tried thinning my paint (GW dark angels green) with water. Sprayed it on a Sentinal primed black. Was doing quite okay, except that due to it being water, didn't dry that quick/well between coats. So I decided to try another solvent which was what I had close by, a "Mr Color Thinner". This kinda caused my paint to, for lack of a better word, gunk up and coagulate. Was this because: A) Wrong thinner or B) Thinner + water + paint = bad news. I tipped away all the previous paint I was using, but didn't dry out the paint cup properly so is that the cause?
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May 15, 2010 14:28
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floatman posted:Help Airbrush Please! 1. 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, buy it at Wal-Mart for like $2 for a big bottle. 2. Windex 3. Tamiya Acrylic Thinner Pick one of these and mix it with your paint somewhere between 60:40 to 40:60 paint to solution before you run it through your brush. Don't do what you did. Edit: Oh I hope that crap didn't dry yet because you better clean it good. Airbrushes need to be cleaned extremely well between uses, I mean like not a speck of paint anywhere inside the guts or nozzle of the brush. Make sure you use a good solvent to get all that crap out, use rubbing alcohol, acetone, or windex. Clean it good!
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May 15, 2010 14:31
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Thanks guv. I guess I was lucky because before I used the airbrush, I practiced dismantling it and reassembling it so that if/when it did jam up I could immediately rectify the problem. As I live in bizzaro-land where there is no "Wal-mart" and "Windex" I will be picking up a bottle of Tamiya Acrylic Thinner, which I can get at my neighborhood stores.
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May 15, 2010 14:34
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floatman posted:Thanks guv. I use all three, but just get rubbing alcohol from a drugstore or grocery store. How to clean your airbrush: I have a siphon-fed airbrush, it is really nice but a gravity-fed brush that just has like a cup molded into the front of the brush is way better for miniatures. One of the few benefits of my brush is that it's way easier to clean. I just: 1. Pop off the cup or pot of paint from the bottom of my brush. 2. Stick the front of the brush (including the hole where the cup normally pops in, but not including the trigger) in a bowl of clean water. 3. Pull the trigger for a while. What's nice is I can do this whenever I want in the middle of painting if I feel like the paint is starting to dry, which is approx. every 10 seconds for citadel acrylics. When I'm done I just add step 4: I have a squeeze bottle of watered-down windex that I shoot into the intake hole while I'm spraying until the thing is clean, and then I do the same with clean water. Oh and don't forget to definitely wear a mask, and probably safety goggles or glasses. Unless you like inhaling these things.
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May 15, 2010 14:40
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Cakefool posted:Cool, but a bit anorexic. That's what overexposure to GW gets you. It's well proportioned, maybe a little too broad shouldered.
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May 15, 2010 14:44
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It sounds like you used some sort of solvent based thinner with acrylic, which is probably why it reacted weirdly...maybe?
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May 15, 2010 15:18
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No Pun Intended posted:I ordered Jeremiah Crowe (Smog 1888) from maelstrom and it is now the weekend so I've had a chance to start getting him cleaned and assembled. What up Smog buddy. I just got Professor Sawbone from Maelstrom. I've though about picking one of these models up in the past, but the cost always made me back away. Then Maelstrom game me like $8.00 for no reason, so I decided to jump in. The model is super clean, great details. Only one small break. First resin model, I like what I see. Its probably a good thing they are expensive, or I'd end up buying them all.
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May 15, 2010 15:26
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floatman posted:"Mr Color Thinner" Wrong thinner. Mr. Color Thinner is, as PV said, a solvent based thinner. Strips water-based acrylic paints, which is why it gunked up on you--it's used to thin pretty much only Gunze Sangyo brand paints. As suggested before: Isopropyl rubbing alcohol. If, for whatever reason, you can't get that at a drug store, I'm sure you can get Skol. It's a cheap-rear end vodka. Works pretty much the same way. I wouldn't suggest drinking it though: that stuff is complete and utter poo poo.
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May 15, 2010 18:32
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I think Tamiya acrylic thinner is meant only to be used with Tamiya brand paints (it says so on the bottle) so I'd try it out before putting it through your airbrush. I would probably go with the Isopropyl as it will be cheaper in the long run. Bachtere posted:What up Smog buddy. I just got Professor Sawbone from Maelstrom. I've though about picking one of these models up in the past, but the cost always made me back away. Then Maelstrom game me like $8.00 for no reason, so I decided to jump in. I signed up to maelstrom to get him about a week before they gave everyone a free 5 quid. Clever bastards since I am now going to get another Smog mini, probably Kain Finger. I am with you, price is probably the only thing stopping me buying them all (It will just take a while).
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May 16, 2010 02:47
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Tau drone grown up
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May 16, 2010 03:31
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Got a bottle of slow-dri blending medium. What's the paint/medium ratio I'm looking for? I want to try my hand at wet blending on this trygon on my desk.
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May 16, 2010 03:47
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Zarkov Cortez posted:Tau drone grown up Oh man that is sexy - where is it from? The only thing I'd change is it has got a bad case of Tau-legs. No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 04:50 on May 16, 2010 |
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May 16, 2010 04:46
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crime fighting hog posted:Got a bottle of slow-dri blending medium. What's the paint/medium ratio I'm looking for? I want to try my hand at wet blending on this trygon on my desk. Super slow dry: 1/1/8 water/flow-aid/slow-dri. Slow and smooth: 1/1/2 flow-aid/slow-dri/water Flow-aid, if you don't have any, is really bad rear end. Works better (a lot better) than plain old water to thin paints by evenly distributing the pigment. The first one will cause paint to last a ton longer, thickening before drying. The second one is pretty much a standard replacement for water as far as thinning paints go. By replacement I mean "you'll never use plain water for thinning paints ever again, and carry a bottle of this poo poo where ever you go just in case you want to paint." 100% serious. EDIT: Go buy Flow-Aid. It's made by Liquitex as well. Not kidding. Do it now. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 04:56 on May 16, 2010 |
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May 16, 2010 04:54
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No Pun Intended posted:Oh man that is sexy - where is it from? The only thing I'd change is it has got a bad case of Tau-legs. That is from Mauser Earth, from the same folks who do the Smog minis. Only 6 figures in this range, set in a steam punk-ish WW2. Almost bought the first one instead of Sawbone:   
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May 16, 2010 05:06
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You have good taste Bachtere, I also want the first guy (and now that droid).
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May 16, 2010 05:21
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Bachtere posted:Now, if the word "Tojo" could be described in one photo, it would be this one. And before anyone gets uppity, I mean the Allied propaganda depiction of the Japanese.
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May 16, 2010 05:30
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Love dat kraut w lazer thingy and alien fist
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May 16, 2010 05:47
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PaintVagrant posted:Love dat kraut w lazer thingy and alien fist I want to gently caress a chick in a nazi uniform. E: I will be winston churchill. Better yet, patton... Better yet gently caress her in the rear end and I will be Stalin.
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May 16, 2010 05:47
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Sole.Sushi posted:EDIT: Go buy Flow-Aid. It's made by Liquitex as well. Not kidding. Do it now. what the hell kind of scrub do you think I am sushi. (i bought a bottle a couple months ago and oh my god it's amazing stuff)
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May 16, 2010 06:11
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