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Boogeyman posted:I'm sure that using the guide makes me a big pussy, but I wanted to make sure I was doing it right. There isn't anything wrong with using a guide. I use a side clamp guide for my plane irons and chisels, and a veritas guide with skew registration jig for my Stanley #46 blades. If anyone can sharpen a skew blade freehand and keep the skew angle and the bevel just right, they can have all the props I can dish out.
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May 5, 2010 01:33
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Papercut posted:What do you guys think a 6-year-old Skilsaw HD77 7-1/4" that's in good condition is worth? I honestly don't know but my personal rule is that I never pay more than 50% of the price new. You can buy one refurbished on Amazon for $130 shipped.
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May 5, 2010 07:30
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Found this plane for 10$, refinished the handles and resharpened the blade. Still debating whether I want to change it from blue to black. Any opinions? 
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May 5, 2010 15:47
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wormil posted:I honestly don't know but my personal rule is that I never pay more than 50% of the price new. You can buy one refurbished on Amazon for $130 shipped. Thanks for the response! I ended up offering $40 for it and we both seemed happy.
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May 5, 2010 15:51
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Papercut posted:Thanks for the response! I ended up offering $40 for it and we both seemed happy. If it's not wore out you stole it. Nice job.
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May 5, 2010 21:23
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MarshallX posted:Found this plane for 10$, refinished the handles and resharpened the blade. It already looks nicer than it has to. I say leave it blue and start using it. Is it a stanley? The stamped lateral-adjuster is throwing me, but it has a boss around the front knob so its not like my Fulton either......
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May 5, 2010 21:26
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GEMorris posted:It already looks nicer than it has to. I say leave it blue and start using it. Yep, It's a Stanley Type 20 (or so I can figure out, might be a Type 4 because mine has "Made in Canada" and not "Made in U.S.A"), I've dated it to ~1967 and it's one of the last Stanley models made before they pretty much went to poo poo. The black paint is drying right now, I couldn't resist. I did however get it sharpened and took some shavings off before dismantling again. It's a dream. The only thing I'm irritated about is that the lever cap is painted/powder coated gray instead of machined to a shine. I'm debating what to do about it and was coming here to get some opinions. I'm not sure if I can sand the paint off and polish it myself. 
MarshallX fucked around with this message at 02:45 on May 6, 2010 |
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May 6, 2010 02:40
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MarshallX posted:Yep, It's a Stanley Type 20 (or so I can figure out, might be a Type 4 because mine has "Made in Canada" and not "Made in U.S.A"), I've dated it to ~1967 and it's one of the last Stanley models made before they pretty much went to poo poo.I'm debating what to do about it and was coming here to get some opinions. I'm not sure if I can sand the paint off and polish it myself. Dude, if it is a type 20, then let it be a type 20
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May 6, 2010 05:02
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GEMorris posted:Dude, if it is a type 20, then let it be a type 20 The gray paint on the lever cap is after market. Probably done by the original owner after it rusted out. That's what I'm trying to say 
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May 6, 2010 18:50
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I finally finished my saw bench. It wobbles about 1/4 inch, but I'm attributing that to the fact that I didn't have ANYTHING, save the kitchen counter, to clamp a piece to in order to square off my cuts, and that surface was too slick to hold anything in place. (I tried.) I got the idea from a guy who did one like this:  Click here for the full 768x1024 image. Unfortunately, he kept the plans to himself, but I got everything figured out. I learned a crap load though, even on such a simple project. That was really the point, but I ended up with a usable bench, so win-win! Boogabu fucked around with this message at 23:59 on May 7, 2010 |
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May 7, 2010 23:51
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Boogabu posted:I got the idea from a guy who did one like this: I made the nesting ones that I have linked to several times and I love them. That being said, I can really see the advantage of a larger sawbench like the one pictured if you don't have a workbench yet and will be building one. Large glue laminations will be much easier on something like this. Certainly better for ripping as well.
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May 8, 2010 05:03
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Yeah I was totally digging the rip slot down the middle... It would be excellent for something thin and more delicate. Mine is only 50' long, but it's long enough for just about anything I can fathom needing it for. I also read that it should come up to knee height so you can use your knee to put weight on something and give you the most biomechanical advantage.
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May 8, 2010 23:53
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I started an 8-week introduction to cabinet making course last week. It's essentially an introduction to learning different types of joint, and we should end up with a little dovetail-joint box. Can't wait for the next session!
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May 9, 2010 16:39
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Kapowski posted:I started an 8-week introduction to cabinet making course last week. It's essentially an introduction to learning different types of joint, and we should end up with a little dovetail-joint box. Can't wait for the next session! Me too! Only this is a 12 week class. Tomorrow is class #2. We're carving spoons!
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May 10, 2010 04:25
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Here's my latest project to give my benchtop drill press some love. 
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May 10, 2010 13:39
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MarshallX posted:Here's my latest project to give my benchtop drill press some love. Nicely done. How did you connect the panels?
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May 11, 2010 18:42
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wormil posted:Nicely done. How did you connect the panels? They are done with rabbets, frames butt jointed with biscuits. I was going to just do a floating panel with a dado but I got too excited.
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May 11, 2010 18:57
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Had to dig back through the thread to find the post I was looking for, but this band saw was recommended as a reasonable option some time ago: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921059000P?vName=Tools&cName=Bench+%26+Stationary+Power+Tools&sName=Band+Saws Does that recommendation still stand, more or less, as an entry-level new-saw option? [edit] For reference: GEMorris posted:Both of those are not worth owning I am sorry to say. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:58 on May 11, 2010 |
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May 11, 2010 19:55
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Bad Munki posted:Had to dig back through the thread to find the post I was looking for, but this band saw was recommended as a reasonable option some time ago: Yes, Rikon in my experience has good quality control and from what I have read and heard, they also have good customer service. The only thing I would change about my recommendation is what I said about the 14" deluxe model. The 18" has gotten so expensive that the 14" deluxe makes sense if your application calls for a good bit of resawing, although not as much sense as a Used 18"+ for the same money. If you think you are going to do a lot of resawing, get the 14" deluxe, if not, then just get the 14". If you get an 18"+ later on you may end up keeping the 14" if you have the space, I certainly would have two if I could, one set up with a thin blade for curves and one set up with a wide blade for rips and resawing. Either way I don't think you can go wrong with the Rikon 14" models. Hawk slickdeals for a Sears sale or coupon to make the deal sweeter.
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May 11, 2010 23:10
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Unfortunately, they refuse to do anything but ship the thing directly to me. They won't just put it on a truck and let me pick it up at one of their stores. Which means $6.95 for "standard shipping," plus $224.60 for "oversized delivery." gently caress that, I could just take the extra $225 and drop it on a higher quality saw from a local place. [edit] Otherwise, I could get free shipping from Amazon, but it's $800 for the deluxe one (currently the non-deluxe model is $25 more?) Rikon 10-320: http://www.amazon.com/RIKON-10-320-14-Inch-Band-Saw/dp/B002FB74UG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1273619134&sr=1-1 Rikon 10-325: http://www.amazon.com/RIKON-10-325-14-Inch-Deluxe-Band/dp/B002FL3ZFY/ref=dp_cp_ob_hi_image_0?ie=UTF8&qid=1273619134&sr=1-1 Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 00:06 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 11, 2010 23:32
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I don't have tons of woodworking experience so I'm looking for advice on how best to do some carving. Basically I have a 2' x 4' panel I need to carve out a triangle in (well 6 triangles in all) that are about 10"x7"x7". It looks like the sane way to do this is to build a guide and use a router. Only problem is this panel is already part of the assembled piece of furniture and cannot be removed. So I need to do this while it's standing up 6 feet high. Is it total madness to attempt this with power tools? Or any tools? I'm not ruling out getting some wood carving hand tools and doing it by hand. The shape I need to cut is very simple, nothing really ornate. I just need to be able to go about 1/4" into a 3/4" board.
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May 12, 2010 20:47
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I was off all last week, so I finished the dresser/changing table I was making for my sister. I'm pretty happy with it, I made a few mistakes but managed to cover them up mostly. I ended up making some molding to go right under the lip of the top, which ended up hiding most of the things I was unhappy with. The entire thing is assembled with pocket screws, except for the drawers, which are dovetailed. There's a changing table pad that attaches to the top via some straps to keep it in place and the pad itself is contoured to keep the baby on it. It's countertop height, which is a little low for a dresser but the perfect height for changing a baby. I may work on a stack on chest for the future but I figure I've got at least a couple years before that needs to be done. My sister's due in just about a month, so I didn't have much time to spare.  Click here for the full 1083x1171 image.
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May 12, 2010 23:28
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Keep in mind that after the baby is a few months old they can and will roll around, no sides mean they could fall off. gregday posted:The shape I need to cut is very simple, nothing really ornate. I don't know anything about carving but if you have a local woodworking club I bet there are guys there who do. They could either do it for you or give you a lesson.
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May 13, 2010 06:01
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wormil posted:Keep in mind that after the baby is a few months old they can and will roll around, no sides mean they could fall off. The changing tables I looked at had sides that were only as high as the changing table pad I had bought, so they really didn't do anything except keep it in place. The pad itself also has a seatbelt like strap as well. I was actually going to put a "fence" around the top, but I measured the changing pad AFTER I had cut the top down to 32in wide. I was really annoyed with myself for not checking it first, especially since my top glue-up was wide enough before I cut it down. If I had realized the changing pad itself was 32 inches wide, I would have made the top an extra inch and a half wider and put the sides and back on.
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May 13, 2010 12:12
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The changing table/dresser we bought was kinda neat, when turned upside down the base held a pad and the sides were high enough to stop a baby from rolling off. Then when she was older, flip it back around so the top is flat. We still have it. In other news, 50% off 4 & 5 star rated power tools on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=pe_80910_15305940_pe_epc_/?ie=UTF8&rh=n%3A551236%2Cp_72%3A1248909011&sort=pmrank
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May 13, 2010 18:00
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LordOfThePants posted:I was off all last week, so I finished the dresser/changing table I was making for my sister. I'm pretty happy with it, I made a few mistakes but managed to cover them up mostly. I ended up making some molding to go right under the lip of the top, which ended up hiding most of the things I was unhappy with. Really nice. I love stuff with more of a natural feel, like the knot and sapwood. I can sort of see the appeal in homogenized "everything is stained to look perfectly, uniformly dull" things at furniture stores. I just much prefer this look.
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May 13, 2010 19:30
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For me it depends. I like a nice figured piece of wood in a prominent place like the top of a table or a single drawer front but too much starts to look busy. This is just my personal preference though, I also prefer very contemporary or modern style kitchens with slab doors. I tend to have very Spartan tastes.
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May 13, 2010 22:13
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The drawer fronts were a bit of a challenge, since I didn't want to do a glue up and most of my cherry is fairly narrow. I remember dropping a big, beautiful cherry tree several years ago and I know the logs have since been sawn and through the kiln, but it must have been in the bottom of the wood stack because everything I grabbed wasn't very wide. It actually wasn't really a problem except for the drawer fronts and the top since the widest board anywhere else is only four inches. That's actually not sapwood on the top drawer, it's just the grain pattern and the lighting. It looks a little different from every angle, here's another shot head on.  Click here for the full 1098x1266 image. Honestly, I think the hardest part of the whole project was picking out the drawer pulls. The pocket screws made things really easy.
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May 13, 2010 22:45
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Is there a good website for viewing different types of wood? I am in the middle of a remodel of my basement and would like to try and get an idea of what will go well for stairs, a bar, and to cover up some pillars.
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May 14, 2010 02:37
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Psychic Fetus posted:Is there a good website for viewing different types of wood? http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/utilities/information.php http://www.exoticwoodflooring.com/exotic_woodfloor_species/woodspecies.htm http://www.hardwoodinfo.com/species_guide/index.php
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May 14, 2010 02:41
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A friend wants me to make him a set of bar stools. Time is kind of an issue so I would like to work off of plans apposed to my usual "wing it" method of building. Does anyone know where I can find a set of plans? I have looked through Google and couldn't find a decent set.
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May 14, 2010 23:09
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I always wanted to do this. :P http://lmgtfy.com/?q=woodworking+bar+stool+plans Links 1, 2, 4, and I know there's at least 2 more on page 2.
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May 15, 2010 11:14
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Boogabu posted:I always wanted to do this. :P ... JEEVES420 posted:I have looked through Google and couldn't find a decent set. I have looked at all of the links on your lmgtfy page. None of them have good looking bar stool plans. I am not looking for 4 legs and a slab, I am looking for bar stool plans. I was hoping someone here knew of a better source than the top Google results.
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May 15, 2010 19:40
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Anyone know of a good source for brass inlay? All I'm finding are, say, inlay guides made of brass.
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May 15, 2010 20:10
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JEEVES420 posted:... Did you try the 3dwarehouse? It might have something in there- you'll need to get sketchup though to actually view the items, and of course some things won't come with the measurements already made on them, others will be out of scale, you get what you pay for there. I do find it better for my mind to wrap around a 3 dimensional object though instead of blueprints for whatever reason though so maybe give it a look-see. http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/
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May 16, 2010 00:15
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JEEVES420 posted:I have looked at all of the links on your lmgtfy page. None of them have good looking bar stool plans. I am not looking for 4 legs and a slab, I am looking for bar stool plans. I was hoping someone here knew of a better source than the top Google results. Did you happen to notice the folding bar stool? (That looked pretty sweet, IMO. I might build that.) You said you wanted it fast. I assumed you also wanted it inexpensive. There's plans for really, really nice stools that you can purchase in some of those links.
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May 17, 2010 05:34
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Hope this is the right thread to post in (let me know if it isn't). My family had a cedar deck built and we want to stain it match the bricks of our house. I was wondering if someone could suggest the best brand of stain for a cedar deck. We want to do everything right, so I figured I'd find out the best brands first and then decide on the color (we have a few options).
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May 18, 2010 00:52
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ScreaminKing posted:Hope this is the right thread to post in (let me know if it isn't). I've used Defy's epoxy fortified deck stain on a couple decks and I've been pretty happy with it. It's semi-transparent so it will be a little longer-lasting than something like Thompsons, but I still end up refinishing every other year. I read somewhere that a new deck should be allowed to weather for a year before you stain it. I'm not sure if that applies to cedar, but with a AC3 pine deck, the wood is usually so wet and waterlogged you've got to wait a while anyway. I used some product that was intended for new decks (I can't remember what it was now), then followed it with the Defy a year later. I'd buy the Defy again (and will be, actually, it's time to refinish the deck at my parents house).
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May 18, 2010 01:43
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Bad Munki posted:Anyone know of a good source for brass inlay? All I'm finding are, say, inlay guides made of brass. If you just want to do straight lines, ACE Hardware carries brass U channels (and maybe straight strips too). I picked up some 3/16" and 1/4" channels years back, then went to a lapidary and got a bag full of various different colored stones and some clear jeweler's epoxy. The plan was to smash the rocks up into tiny chips, then fill the U channel with the rock chips and epoxy, then inlay the whole works as a stripe going around a box that would look like this from the side: WOOD WOOD WOOD WOOD ==================== Brass strip ROCK ROCK ROCK ROCK ==================== WOOD WOOD WOOD WOOD If they don't have brass strips, you could just use a U Channel and flip it up side down. You're also going to want to make sure you have a straight router bit that matches the width of the inlay. Also, what is going on in your avatar? It looks like some science beaker that bubbles or something.
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May 18, 2010 06:13
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I was hoping to just have a 1/8" rounded-over strip between a couple pieces of wood, just as a highlight, so u-channel won't work for that unfortunately. I did some googling around, and I found brass inlay strips, bu it looks like they're all for going in flush, which isn't quite what I wanted. I guess my other option would just be to use wood inlay, which would be neat looking as well, I'm sure. The avatar is an airlock used during fermentation by homebrewers; there's a thread so check it out if you want to join in the fun.
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May 18, 2010 14:37
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