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Fantastipotamus posted:Spent $25 on a single 1 7/8" socket to get my back wheel off. It's huge! I just use an adjustable wrench *shrug*
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May 18, 2010 04:03
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Fantastipotamus posted:Spent $25 on a single 1 7/8" socket to get my back wheel off. It's huge! Jesus what bike is that on? I thought my rear axle nut was huge and it's a 32mm... 1 7/8" is like 48mm 
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May 18, 2010 04:48
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Last week I ordered a new oem sprockets for my sv650 and a new chain to go along with it. Swapping them out seemed to go pretty smoothly. I also bought a new clutch cable but it turns out I got one for the sv650s and not the naked version so it wont work. I went to two different Suzuki places and neither one of them have the part in stock. Seems crazy to me since its the 2nd gen SV and it has to be one of their best selling models here in the US and the dealers just don't carry parts for it. WTF.
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May 18, 2010 04:55
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OdinAllfather posted:Crap. I totally thought that I could soak them in a bowl of brake cleaner. Of course you still need to answer the question of how you got oil on your brake pads. I doubt someone applied a film of oil to your rotor. Are you sure your fork oil isn't leaking? Perhaps brake fluid that worked its way around piston seals?
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May 18, 2010 13:32
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Crayvex posted:Are you sure your fork oil isn't leaking? Perhaps brake fluid that worked its way around piston seals? I'm not sure how to investigate this. My friend and I thought maybe some fork oil was spilled and never cleaned, up way back when. When I changed the brake fluid it wasn't at an abnormally low level, just a terrible colour. I'll dig around my Clymer and do some google-fu, I guess.
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May 18, 2010 15:13
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UserNotFound posted:I just use an adjustable wrench *shrug* Came in here to post this too. I have a shorty chopped adjustable wrench that I use with the bike and carry with me on trips. Still gives more than enough torque for getting that axle nut tight. Fun thing is you dont even need to hold the other side on most bikes... friction does that just fine.
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May 18, 2010 16:21
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dietcokefiend posted:Came in here to post this too. I have a shorty chopped adjustable wrench that I use with the bike and carry with me on trips. Still gives more than enough torque for getting that axle nut tight. Fun thing is you dont even need to hold the other side on most bikes... friction does that just fine. You don't torque your axles to a specific ft lb? 
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May 18, 2010 16:23
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dietcokefiend posted:Fun thing is you dont even need to hold the other side on most bikes... friction does that just fine. You most certainly need to hold the other side on my 250. needknees posted:You don't torque your axles to a specific ft lb? Doesn't your axle use a castle nut and a cotter pin? Not much need to get the torque exactly right if so.
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May 18, 2010 16:39
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needknees posted:You don't torque your axles to a specific ft lb? Tightened enough bolts in my years to know what is the right amount for certain applications  Castle nuts are easy to do. Basically there is a range where to get the holes to line up you reach a point when you need WAY too much torque to get to the next one where the current one fits just right. frozenphil posted:You most certainly need to hold the other side on my 250. I laugh at your 250 then 
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May 18, 2010 16:42
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No castle nut here, just a big one on a hollow axle and torque specs I like to use since there's no pin I will need to plan better for riding into work. Getting into the parking garage kind of sucks, and I should probably offset some of my backpack crap into another type of storage so I don't have the super brick on my back.
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May 18, 2010 23:10
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Lugnut supremacy. 
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May 19, 2010 00:05
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Swapped the chain on the SV, planned on doing sprockets as well but they looked fine. Also pieced together a mount for the Garmin 2610. Prepping the bike for a short road trip this weekend and a possible long one in a couple weeks.
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May 19, 2010 01:11
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NitroSpazzz posted:Swapped the chain on the SV, planned on doing sprockets as well but they looked fine. Also pieced together a mount for the Garmin 2610. Isn't it usually swapped the sprockets but the chain looked fine since most sprockets wear faster than a chain? Or do I just buy lovely sprockets?
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May 19, 2010 02:16
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needknees posted:Jesus what bike is that on? I thought my rear axle nut was huge and it's a 32mm... 1 7/8" is like 48mm New shoes are on tonight. Just beat the rain home on the new tires!
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May 19, 2010 03:00
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Bike: 1982 Honda CB750SC Nighthawk. I royally screwed the pooch.  Click here for the full 2025x1519 image.  Click here for the full 2000x1500 image.  Click here for the full 2000x1500 image. I took my carb tear down one step too far and I now have no idea how to get the return spring back on. See that brass do-hicky up top? There is supposed to be a spring that tensions it back. Once I get that part done I should be able to just push them back together and rerack.
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May 19, 2010 04:30
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Korwen posted:I've been disassembling the carbs to rebuild them for my bike, but jesus christ there are some screws that I am convinced have melded with the metal to become one. I've let them sit with PB blaster overnight, took an impact driver to them, and then promptly stripped them. I'm going to have to try drilling and ez-out-ing these screws and with luck that'll work, otherwise I'll have to drill out and re-tap these, which will be a big pain in the rear end. I guess that's what happens when a bike sits in the weather for 10 years. I had a similar problem when I just rebuilt the carbs on my SV650. I had to grind some screws into a square and use vice grips on them. Do yourself a favor, get hex cap head bolts and replace all of the screws. You'll thank yourself if you ever have to do this again.
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May 19, 2010 05:20
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timb posted:I had a similar problem when I just rebuilt the carbs on my SV650. I had to grind some screws into a square and use vice grips on them. Invest in a $9 impact driver from Harbor Freight. It got the screws out of my carbs pretty well.
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May 19, 2010 05:44
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Scraped most of the grime off the strom's rear wheel and gave the chain a good lubing. Really gotta start thinking about resuscitating the KLR.
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May 19, 2010 08:24
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Fantastipotamus posted:Triumph Speed Triple. In reality, it was a metric, and it was probably a 40/41mm, but it fit well enough thankfully. SS swingarm seem to be massive, my Bros (hawk gt) is 46mm!
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May 19, 2010 08:59
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Ordered new belts for the M900, but today I got the front brake on the kikker sorted and changed over to hand clutch/foot shift to get my girlfriend to learn how to ride a motorcycle again. It's a "race" shift pattern right now, but I don't think it should be too much trouble to adjust if she gets her own bike.
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May 19, 2010 10:02
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Mounted the tank and seats back on the SV last night. Waiting for the new fuel cap to arrive. Oh, why waiting on the fuel cap? Because I am an idiot and when acid bathing the rust out of the tank I didn't realize suzuki used some plastic bits in the fuel cap assembly. Lesson learned, oh well.
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May 19, 2010 13:58
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NitroSpazzz posted:Swapped the chain on the SV, planned on doing sprockets as well but they looked fine. Also pieced together a mount for the Garmin 2610. The rule I always followed with MX bikes was change the sprockets at the same time you change the chain. The sprockets act as a bearing of sorts, and without replacing them your new chain will not last as long.
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May 19, 2010 14:01
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Gr3y posted:Nighthawk carbs BTDT with my 650; took me 2 days to figure out. Hang tight and I'll get back to you. (Alternative: score some GSX750 carbs and throw those vacuum-piston motherfuckers away.) E: Here ya go; lemme know if you need any other shots   Click here for the full 2034x1356 image.  Click here for the full 2034x1356 image. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 15:10 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 14:09
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mAlfunkti0n posted:The rule I always followed with MX bikes was change the sprockets at the same time you change the chain. The sprockets act as a bearing of sorts, and without replacing them your new chain will not last as long. Damnit that probably isn't a bad idea...maybe I'll pull the wheel tomorrow night and swap those over real quick. Better than ruining a new chain.
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May 19, 2010 18:53
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mAlfunkti0n posted:The rule I always followed with MX bikes was change the sprockets at the same time you change the chain. The sprockets act as a bearing of sorts, and without replacing them your new chain will not last as long. On the flip side, I haven't had any issues running new chains on old sprockets. It's probably a good policy, but especially when you're swapping chains/sprockets a lot, it'd be excessive to swap out for a new chain every time. I'd say the increase in wear is pretty low if the sprockets are still in good shape. If the sprockets are worn to poo poo, then yeah, it'd probably be less than ideal.
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May 19, 2010 19:30
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I just swapped in a new battery to my '80 CB750F and now it starts the first time, every time. No coaxing, no pushing, no playing with the throttle to get it to wheeze into life. I'm so excited!
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May 19, 2010 20:56
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600RR is all back together. 1) The fucker who had my bike before me almost stripped all the fairing bolts. USE THE RIGHT GODDAMN SIZE ALLEN WRENCH! 2) I put the forks on backwards first. Oops. I also need to invest in a stubby wrench or ratchet. 3) I need to go for a test ride now.
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May 20, 2010 13:03
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last night: Stripped left and right plastics off the ST1300 Drained the radiator Flushed the radiator Flushed engine block and hoses Cleaned out plastic overflow tank Refilled with 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water Confirmed no leaks, reinstalled plastics I know, I know... the thread is "What did you do to your ride today?", but I was tired when I finished and went to bed. So there.
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May 20, 2010 17:51
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There's not really any 'alignment' of the forks, is there? I put them both in to the same height, the ends that the wheel/axle go in swivel, it should just pretty much roll straight, right?
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May 20, 2010 18:54
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Bob Morales posted:There's not really any 'alignment' of the forks, is there? I put them both in to the same height, the ends that the wheel/axle go in swivel, it should just pretty much roll straight, right? Basically. It can help to tighten everything up and then loosen the front axle and bounce the front end a bit just to make sure it seats properly.
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May 20, 2010 19:07
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Last night I picked up a 1987 TLR200 trials bike. When I went to look at it I made sure it was cold and kicked it to life on the first start. Tried to die as soon as you got more than 1/4 throttle. This afternoon I get home from work and tear into the carb cleaning it out. Put everything back together and start kicking...ten minutes later and still nothing. Pull the plug and see no spark. So pull the bike back apart and start checking the entire electrical system. After tracing every wire, checking continuity and trying a couple spare coils I realize I haven't tried a new plug. New plug and plenty of spark  By now all the auto parts places are closed. Going out of town tomorrow so I won't be able to ride the drat thing until Monday night.
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May 21, 2010 02:38
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Pulled the factory spark plugs and put in some new ones. Click here for the full 2046x1535 image. I think the general condition of the plugs means the engine is running at a healthy mixture, but then I don't look at spark plugs too often. Also, I removed and greased up the cam chain tensioner, which appeared to have had its bearing surfaces scored and its springs blued from heat, apparently due to lack of lubrication. While I should probably just outright replace it, slathering the CCT in molybdenum extreme pressure grease seems to at least be postponing the problem until some later date, as the rattling coming from my engine died down almost immediately after reinstalling it.
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May 21, 2010 06:48
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http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html
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May 21, 2010 12:58
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Ordered black brake lever to replace the one that snapped, ordered a black clutch lever to color coordinate. I also order new "organic" brake pads, since I guess my originals are ruined. I have no idea what organic brake pads are, and was too tired to google. Besides, they were 20$ cheaper. So, I'll let you all know when I either end-over, or bury myself into the trunk of a car.
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May 21, 2010 15:12
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Organics are just "normal" pads...the metallic are designed for aggressive use. The organics will probably last longer and have slightly less initial bite and grab. Not a big deal
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May 21, 2010 16:56
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Organics don't use pesticides or evil hormones. Hope you "metallic" users enjoy your cancer.
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May 21, 2010 18:29
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Endless Mike posted:Organics don't use pesticides or evil hormones. Cuz I'm not really seeing the problem with using testosterone here.
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May 21, 2010 20:17
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Endless Mike posted:Organics don't use pesticides or evil hormones. Hope you "metallic" users enjoy your cancer. I only use free range brake pads, with vegan brake fluid.
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May 22, 2010 02:16
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Today I was tearing along in my little car0. Some litrebike comes hauling along and rides my bumper for maybe 100 yards, then changes lanes and proceeds to loving rip off. I was doing 70 miles per hour- freeway speeds and this guy was over the horizon in like 10 seconds tops. loving litre bikes are unbelievably fast.. like... jesus loving christ. He was doing 120-140 if he was moving at all. I wish I had, and was stupid enough to actually use, that kind of machine on the street. gently caress you, survival instinct.
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May 22, 2010 04:37
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I did some cleaning up and bought some stock pipes to put on my roaring beast. I also discovered that in addition to not being able to reset the trip, I the speedometer backlight is burned out. At least the important one still lights up, you only need the tach anyway right guise?
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May 22, 2010 05:36
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