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Anyone know an easy accessory lead that can support like 15 amps to use in an e34 besides the radio? I went digging in both fuse boxes with a multimeter and I swear that was the only thing I could find that would turn on in accessory mode and not just fully on. I could just use a relay from the radio acc lead, but I'm kind of disappointed it doesn't have multiple acc taps in the fuse box like most 90's shitpiles.
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May 17, 2010 21:09
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EvilMoFo posted:while I was doing my brakes I found this little issue: That's actually a problem on E46s that spend time in salty areas. The dealership or Pelican Parts will have stock springs. Replace both rear springs; the other one is not far behind.
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May 18, 2010 01:50
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while I would not call reno nevada or san francisco all that salty ... caltrans pours sand and salt on the roads all winter long so it makes sense I guess thanks
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May 18, 2010 02:34
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I just got one of the biggest "gently caress you" moments I can have for an E36 M3. Took the car in to have the AC checked, the tech used a chemical sniffer to check for leaking 134 inside the cabin. Looks like the evaporator is leaking. This is on top of the compressor sounding noisy (but not squealing yet), which is likely a compressor clutch replacement. Has anyone done the evaporator job? I have the Bentley guide, but their descriptions are sometimes guilty of "installation is reverse of removal" syndrome.
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May 19, 2010 01:59
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balakadaka posted:I just got one of the biggest "gently caress you" moments I can have for an E36 M3. Took the car in to have the AC checked, the tech used a chemical sniffer to check for leaking 134 inside the cabin. Looks like the evaporator is leaking. This is on top of the compressor sounding noisy (but not squealing yet), which is likely a compressor clutch replacement. AC is probably squalling because it's low on oil and R134a. Replace the evap, recharge, and then let us know how it sounds. I'm assuming you're going to have to pull the dash to get at the evap, but my E36 Bentley is in the garage somewhere. I haven't owned an E36 in years.
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May 19, 2010 07:25
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I'm considering a 2006-2008 BMW 118 Diesel. Probably about 20-40k miles on the clock. M-sport package. What should I be looking for in faults, etc? Never owned a BMW before, but have a E-class mercedes. Yeah, I know theres a huge size-difference, but I don't really need all that space. Looked around a bit in this thread, but it's huge so I probably missed it if it has been brought up.
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May 19, 2010 10:09
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1's are great cars as it is; M-Sport package and a twin turbo diesel making 102hp/L and gobs of torque in the lightest (3000lb) of the BMW lineup? I dunno what to look out for in the 1s, but that sounds like a sweet deal to me!
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May 19, 2010 10:27
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Make sure that you get the 143hp 118d and not the 122hp one. The upgrade came in early 2007 along with a better interior and an exterior facelift.
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May 19, 2010 11:55
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evobatman posted:Make sure that you get the 143hp 118d and not the 122hp one. The upgrade came in early 2007 along with a better interior and an exterior facelift. Hmm, the one I had lined up for a test drive tomorrow is a 2006 118d with 122 hk.. Well, thanks for the tip I'll look for a newer one then. I suppose it's probably a easy thing to get a few more HK in these with a chip?
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May 19, 2010 16:04
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I am selling my 96 Volvo 850. I am either going to get an 850R wagon or early 90's BMW, hopefully a 318is (the 1991 model. none of that E36 business) I know from first-hand experience that Volvos are extremely reliable. The upside of an 850R wagon is I know I'll love it, it'll just be larger and faster than what I have. I could put the extra space to good use, too. However, it's not essential, and I have no problems with a sedan (hence why the 318is is on the list). So, here are my questions for all y'all BMW owners: - My dad owned a BMW in Germany in the early 80's. I'm almost positive it was on the E30 platform. However, he hated it, and sold it after a couple months, because he said that his BMW and all his friends' BMW's were super unreliable. Are early 90's BMW's reliable? I'm not expecting it to be quite as reliable as a Volvo, but if it's as bad or worse than the B5 Passat I used to own, I don't even want to mess with it. - Are there any BMW-specific/E30/E36-specific warning flags I should be looking for when considering a BMW of this age? - I live in the New England and New York where there is a ton of snow. I love rear-wheel drive cars, but I remember my old Benz 300D being an absolute nightmare to drive in the snow. Can anyone attest to the ability of an E30/E36 in the snow? Bing the Noize fucked around with this message at 09:25 on May 20, 2010 |
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May 20, 2010 09:20
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I'm starting to sometimes see a delay in the passenger light when I switch my E46's main lights on. It throws a dashboard warning until it switches on fully, which usually only takes a second or two but has taken as long as a few minutes in one case. Am I correct in assuming that, since the headlight is a xenon, it's probably not the bulb going bad, but loose or otherwise malfunctioning wiring?
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May 20, 2010 11:56
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ACID POLICE posted:I am selling my 96 Volvo 850. I am either going to get an 850R wagon or early 90's BMW, hopefully a 318is (the 1991 model. none of that E36 business) 1. E30's are from the "Golden Age" of BMW reliability. They are overbuilt tanks and if you take care of them, will last a good, long time. If, however, you find one that has been neglected, you'll have a bad experience. Maintenance is key with any BMW. I own a 1991 318iS (By the way, the iS denotes 'coupe', the 'i' is a sedan with the E30/E36 era) and drive it daily. Always starts and no major issues. I have had to replace parts (exhaust, belts, hoses, etc.) but it's almost 20 years old so I expect that. I also got a car with a complete maintenance history so nothing came as a surprise. 2. These cars are getting up there in age so really anything is fair game as far as problems. E30 specific issues are the timing belt on the 6-cyl cars; change it every 5 years or 50,000 miles PROMPTLY or be prepared for the $$$$ in repair costs when it breaks. The same goes for the entire cooling system on E36 cars every 60-80,000 miles. Anything rubber wears out/cracks, so check things like motor mounts, bushings, ball joints, hoses, fuel lines, intake boots, etc. Shocks are likely to be shot unless they've been changed. 3. If you grew up driving in snow, you'll be able to handle RWD fine, but it's best to get a set of snow tires mounted on another set of rims. RWD will never get going as quickly as FWD or AWD, but the amount of information that BMWs communicate to you through the seat and steering wheel make it stupid easy to know when you're at the limits of traction. It's great.
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May 20, 2010 12:32
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I have a 91 318IS as well. I love the car. Its at about 180,000 miles and its still awesome. Sure, it rattles a bit and has cracks in the leather, but its an old car with lots of mileage. I expect the engine to give me another 25,000 miles, although I am not sure about the transmission. It whines pretty good. One weak point that I do not see mentioned are the carrier bearings in the differential. In particular, the input bearing. You get a whine from the rear end when the input bearing is bad. The one that came with my car whined loudly. I got a used one, it whined too. I got another used one, it whined as well. On the third try, I got a good one, but its because I returned the second one under warranty and I think they rebuilt it. This issue is specific to the 318IS though as it is a "small case" diff, rather than "medium case" like the 325's. These cars require maintenance, but they are built for maintenance. Everything is pretty easy to get to and more or less logically laid out. I live in Wisconsin, so I get plenty of winter driving in. I have a second set of wheels with some Nokian WRG2's, which are winter rated all-season tires. These cars are well balanced, so no need for sand bags in the trunk, just keep your fuel tank above 50%. I swear that the combination of nice tires, manual transmission and 4.10 rear allows me to keep up with 4WD SUVs starting from stop lights. Now the issue may be depth though. If you are talking about major blizzard conditions, you may just want to stay home, but as long as you have ground clearance, an E30 is great in the snow.
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May 20, 2010 14:23
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Well, I was finally going to replace my diff fluid last night, only to find out my 14mm hex socket is *way* too long to fit between the spare tire well and the fill plug. Anybody know where I can get a cheap 14mm allen key? I know Sears has one, but it's like $18 just for the one. I didn't see anything on Harbor Freight's website.
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May 20, 2010 14:46
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Dyscrasia posted:One weak point that I do not see mentioned are the carrier bearings in the differential. In particular, the input bearing. You get a whine from the rear end when the input bearing is bad. The one that came with my car whined loudly. I got a used one, it whined too. I got another used one, it whined as well. On the third try, I got a good one, but its because I returned the second one under warranty and I think they rebuilt it. This issue is specific to the 318IS though as it is a "small case" diff, rather than "medium case" like the 325's. My diff is whining now too, but I'm not going to do anything about it. Getting another one is pricey, and as you found out, a crapshoot. Plus mine is an LSD so replacements are even more expensive. From what I've read, these diffs can go a LONG LONG time whining like that. It will get VERY loud before it craps out totally.
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May 20, 2010 16:00
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Brock Landers posted:1. E30's are from the "Golden Age" of BMW reliability. They are overbuilt tanks and if you take care of them, will last a good, long time. If, however, you find one that has been neglected, you'll have a bad experience. Maintenance is key with any BMW. I own a 1991 318iS (By the way, the iS denotes 'coupe', the 'i' is a sedan with the E30/E36 era) and drive it daily. Always starts and no major issues. I have had to replace parts (exhaust, belts, hoses, etc.) but it's almost 20 years old so I expect that. I also got a car with a complete maintenance history so nothing came as a surprise. thanks for all that info, i appreciate it. i will be keeping my eyes out on craigslist for something that isn't beat to poo poo. by the way, if anyone cares, i called up my dad to hear his BMW insights in more detail. he said the source of the problem was Germany's lack of metal supply in the early 80's. he drove a BMW 520 back in the day, and attributed all of its problems to being a car which requires regular maintenance, and since recycled metal was so weak, many big things (exhaust etc) needed to be changed annually. to quote him, "that car drove like a dream when it was in tip-top shape and it was a beautiful sunny summer day; unfortunately there are not many beautiful sunny summer days in germany."
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May 20, 2010 16:53
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Lack of metal? Is that why the cars are mostly plastic now? 
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May 20, 2010 21:23
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So I finally replaced my radiator fan today, after I received the BMW fan removal tool. It was a snap; I didn't even have to un-snap the fan shroud to pull the fan out. It's really amazing the difference a piece of metal with a few holes cut in it can make in taking that drat fan off. The last thing I need to check is why my CEL is on. The car drives fine (had to do an italian tune-up because it had been sitting for a week, only being started for 10 seconds at a time to check for leaks, etc.), but I would like to know if it's just a gas cap, or maybe an O2 sensor.
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May 20, 2010 21:33
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an oddly awful oud posted:I'm starting to sometimes see a delay in the passenger light when I switch my E46's main lights on. It throws a dashboard warning until it switches on fully, which usually only takes a second or two but has taken as long as a few minutes in one case. Am I correct in assuming that, since the headlight is a xenon, it's probably not the bulb going bad, but loose or otherwise malfunctioning wiring? I have experienced this with original xenon lights on my e46. The dealership where I bought it replaced the bulb. They said it had simply gone bad (with age). The downside with replacing only one of your xenons is that the light from your bulbs will have a slightly different temperature, since it changes with time. Rnr fucked around with this message at 14:28 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 13:49
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Rnr posted:I have experienced this with original xenon lights on my e46. The dealership where I bought it replaced the bulb. They said it had simply gone bad (with age). The downside with replacing only one of your xenons is that the light from your bulbs will have a slightly different temperature, since it changes with time. All right, thanks. I don't suppose bulb replacement on a xenon is as easy as a typical halogen? The owner's manual doesn't even bother to give directions about replacing the xenons. Edit - I know that you're not supposed to touch xenon bulbs with your bare hands because of skin oil, and I know there's a high voltage hazard, but is that just the tip of the iceberg of difficulties? an oddly awful oud fucked around with this message at 16:01 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 15:45
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ACID POLICE posted:thanks for all that info, i appreciate it. i will be keeping my eyes out on craigslist for something that isn't beat to poo poo. Another quick E30 tip. Replace your sealed beam headlights with some Hella ones. They allow you to hook up regular modern lights. Its a night and day difference so to speak.
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May 21, 2010 16:42
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I looked at a '91 325i convertible yesterday. It had at least (the odometer was broken) 190,000 miles on the body, a rebuilt engine with 40-50k on it and an auto transmission replaced two years ago. The body didn't look that bad; the paint looked fine, but there was a spot of rust behind the rear bumper and most of the black trim looked pretty bad. The spoiler paint (or whatever it is) looked really bad and cracked. One wheel cap was missing, and the soft top had some stitching that was coming out and a crack on either side of the rear window. For the interior, the stitching was coming out of the passenger seat in the front, and there were some cracks on the back seat. We didn't take it out on the road, but we drove it around a parking lot. The idle was a little rough, and the muffler probably needed to be changed, the suspension was pretty loose, and the breaks probably needed some work. There were also some status lights on that they claimed would never turn off no matter what, and it was leaking oil. The car is supposed to come with a hardtop, but it supposedly leaks in the rain. The owner had something come up, so he couldn't show it to us, but his wife did what she could and we're supposed to go see it again. The owner wanted $4500 for it, but I'm thinking that with almost (or more than) 200,000 miles on most of the car, the fact that it's an automatic, and all the other assorted problems, I was thinking of offering him $2500 at most with the hardtop and not even bothering with the followup visit if he outright refuses. Does that sound reasonable?
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May 21, 2010 22:32
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The Aftershave posted:I looked at a '91 325i convertible yesterday. It had at least (the odometer was broken) 190,000 miles on the body, a rebuilt engine with 40-50k on it and an auto transmission replaced two years ago. Do convertibles demand some extra special price? I wouldn't even pay 1k for an auto tranny e30 in that shape.
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May 21, 2010 23:04
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Crustashio posted:Do convertibles demand some extra special price? I wouldn't even pay 1k for an auto tranny e30 in that shape. I guess the scarcity factor might make them worth a bit more, but the extra headaches might cancel that out. The reason I'd offer that much is because the hardtop is supposed to be worth 1k, but I don't know how easy it would be to fix the leaking issue or how bad it even is. Really, I just wanted an e30 convertible, and with this one, I could drive it until it explodes without feeling bad, then sell the hardtop and only take a small loss.
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May 21, 2010 23:11
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The Aftershave posted:I guess the scarcity factor might make them worth a bit more, but the extra headaches might cancel that out. The reason I'd offer that much is because the hardtop is supposed to be worth 1k, but I don't know how easy it would be to fix the leaking issue or how bad it even is. Really, I just wanted an e30 convertible, and with this one, I could drive it until it explodes without feeling bad, then sell the hardtop and only take a small loss. Pass. You can do much better for that price. Convertibles are not "rare" enough to command a big price difference unless they are in good shape. A POS car is still a POS. The hardtop does add value, but not if it's leaking. $2000 would be a fair offer, with your $2500 being absolute max. I've seen a few E30 convertibles in much better shape on craigslist around here for $4000-5000.
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May 22, 2010 13:37
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an oddly awful oud posted:All right, thanks. I don't suppose bulb replacement on a xenon is as easy as a typical halogen? The owner's manual doesn't even bother to give directions about replacing the xenons. I wouldn't call it easy, but then again I'm mechanically challenged. There are guides for doing the replacement floating around on the web, for example e46fanatics.
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May 22, 2010 20:00
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I bought a BMW after owning an 2000 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro. 1998 328is 5-speed 109K miles Mods: Electric Fan/Coolant system overhaul H/R Springs with Blistien shocks Traction Control Delete Clear Corners (dont know if I like these) CAI (I dont think cold air exists in the Mohave Desert) So far I still like the A4 a little more (turbo vs. n/a) BUT the 328 is growing on me as it handles like a dream, RWD is fun, the seats are great, transmission is silk and the growl is amazing from 3500-5000 rpm. Some eye candy....  Click here for the full 1920x1080 image.  Click here for the full 1920x1080 image.  Click here for the full 1920x1080 image.  Click here for the full 1920x1080 image.  Click here for the full 1920x1080 image. Questions: Anyway to reduce the wear on my drivers seat? It has a small hole and is showing wear on the bolsters. What is a good stock or "stock" looking replacement for the BMW Business Cassette Radio (Harmon Kardon)? I already have the 6-disc in the back but want a better sounding and more capable head unit with MP3 and aux in. I have hit a pot hole and now have a metal clucking noise on the left side. It is in the front and rear. I think the rear is a cracked shock mount, but what would be making noise in the front?
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May 24, 2010 08:08
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Today I attended the BMW Driver Training at a local race track, and was really impressed. We drove 320/325d's doing a good 12+ laps each, a slalom course and some emergency braking, in nice wet conditions. I was really impressed with how the cars performed, even though they were automatics they were an absolute blast to drive, and handled supremely well even in the wet. I even won a watch for quickest slalom  but more importantly it really gave me an appreciation for how well all the traction and stability aids help you in emergencies. I'd really recommend giving their driver training a visit.
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May 24, 2010 08:16
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^^^^That is my car, accidentally posted under room mates account!^^^^ Will be replying as gigbutt FYI
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May 24, 2010 08:17
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Interesting. Who arranged the driving school, and how much was tuition?
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May 24, 2010 09:23
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Man, I saw the perfect E36 3-series other than one small problem - the engine was 'clacking' that got louder throughout the test drive and ended up at a relatively loud volume. It wasn't a ticking or tapping that went away after the car had been idling for a few minutes which I've been lead to believe is normal. Various web searches have lead me to suggest this may be: low oil pressure, low oil, timing adjustment required, VANOS replacement required and coolant flush required. What's the most likely culprit? Is it worth taking a chance?
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May 24, 2010 09:36
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Sterndotstern posted:Interesting. Who arranged the driving school, and how much was tuition? BMW usually arranges them. I took the beginner on in Toronto and it was $300 for a half day. We drove 335i sedans and did about the same thing. http://www.bmwusa.com/standard/content/experience/events/pds/default.aspx
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May 24, 2010 13:34
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Replaced the diff fluid in my E36 today. Put some Redline synthetic 75W90 in there. If anybody else does this, I recommend using the following tool or similar:  Very low-profile 1/2" drive spanner (originally part of the Harbor Freight serp belt kit) and a 14mm allen socket, cut down so only about a half in is left of the head. It won't fit otherwise.
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May 25, 2010 01:28
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E36 guys: Have any of you had the faulty airbag mat and fixed it yourself or bypassed it? The dealer quote was 941 which was just hilarious. I took their parts list and priced it for about $285 from pelican parts. There seem to be enough DIYs to work my way through it on a weekend but it still seems like a lot. I've also come across two ways to bypass the sensor (ie trick the car into always thinking the mat is on - it'll throw the airbag but if something sets off the driver side airbag the damage will total the car anyway). The first was to use 2 resistors and a diode to fool the sensor. The second was a manufactured module (https://www.bimtronics.com) but I cannot seem to find any legitimate testimony for this thing - the site also talks about bypassing something that is specifically designed not to hurt kids and then shows a picture of a kid in a child seat on the purchase page. It would be nice to fix the drat thing for under 100 dollars and not have to take the seat apart to do it. I also had my ignition cylinder spin once today - it seems like it's a common problem and requires a new one. It seemed to sit back in place with some fiddling but I'm guessing the stupid anti-theft tab is screwed on it. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 01:35 on May 25, 2010 |
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May 25, 2010 01:32
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My E46 has stopped unlocking the passenger doors from the remote key. It unlocks the driver's door, the trunk lid, and it even locks all the doors. But it doesn't unlock any door other than the driver's. Why is this and how can I fix this? 
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May 25, 2010 04:51
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Mark Larson posted:My E46 has stopped unlocking the passenger doors from the remote key. It unlocks the driver's door, the trunk lid, and it even locks all the doors. But it doesn't unlock any door other than the driver's. Why is this and how can I fix this? Sounds like the comfort module took a poo poo. Dealer-only kind of repair, otherwise you'll be looking at a replacement, which is probably $$$. If it locks the doors, but just won't unlock the passenger... it's gotta be the module, right?
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May 25, 2010 04:58
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Mark Larson posted:My E46 has stopped unlocking the passenger doors from the remote key. It unlocks the driver's door, the trunk lid, and it even locks all the doors. But it doesn't unlock any door other than the driver's. Why is this and how can I fix this? Just to make sure - you are pressing the unlock key twice? I am 99% certain you are but it doesn't hurt to make sure...
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May 25, 2010 15:27
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ozziegt posted:Just to make sure - you are pressing the unlock key twice? I am 99% certain you are but it doesn't hurt to make sure... Mine unlocks all doors with the first press. However my GM5 module's toast since it rarely unlocks any doors with any presses.
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May 25, 2010 15:57
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Firefox Asexual posted:Mine unlocks all doors with the first press. However my GM5 module's toast since it rarely unlocks any doors with any presses. I have a 2004 and it only unlocks the rest of the doors on the second press. I guess it's something that is programmable...
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May 25, 2010 17:24
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Yeah, I'm pressing the unlock button twice. Comfort module? Is there some kind of DIY available for this?
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May 25, 2010 17:42
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