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Hey well on the other hand I'm not much of car buyer. I just feel like from what I've seen 11k is a lot for an 03. And I'm not sure I would buy anything other than a brand new car from a dealer.
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May 15, 2010 11:31
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I don't suppose anyone on here went to the subaru shootout at byron raceway this weekend?
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May 17, 2010 14:48
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 New addition to the stable, '02 silver wagon, 104k miles, stock, $6900. Joins my R6, ZX-6R, miata, and wrecked Maxima. My neighbors must love me. Plans are: -Shifter Bushings (Kartboy?) -Head Unit, does anybody make something that does HD Radio and looks at least somewhat factory? Ugh.. -Possibly Speakers -Gut Uppipe, possible 3" TBE if I can find a QUIET one (does it exist?) -MBC/Tactrix tune, some type of boost gauge -Winter Tires/Wheels when it's time 
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May 17, 2010 15:07
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Blaise posted:
I would recommend getting an aftermarket uppipe (one with a flext joint) or an OEM one that doesn't have a cat. (STi?)
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May 17, 2010 15:55
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I have a catless sti up-pipe in my garage along with some 04 sti struts (which need to be dis-assembled, cleaned, and re-greased). I'll probably put them up on nasioc eventually but if anyone here wants it you can have first dibs.
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May 18, 2010 00:42
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how much for the up pipe?
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May 18, 2010 01:24
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jamal posted:I have a catless sti up-pipe in my garage along with some 04 sti struts (which need to be dis-assembled, cleaned, and re-greased). I'll probably put them up on nasioc eventually but if anyone here wants it you can have first dibs. Thanks man, probably better than having to gut my friend's extra one.
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May 18, 2010 01:39
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How many miles on the struts? Interested. Also, I have a kartboy short shifter with bushings in my FXT and I couldn't be happier with the setup. Do it. FecalFajita fucked around with this message at 04:29 on May 18, 2010 |
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May 18, 2010 04:25
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blaise already got the up-pipe. not sure on the mileage of the struts. I'd guess around 50k, so I'm not looking for a whole lot for them, like in the $150 range. There is a company that revalves and rebuilds the inserts though.
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May 18, 2010 05:48
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After drooling over Evo's and STI's for the last few years I'm finally serious about getting into one. Well, by one I mean I'm going to lease a 2010 WRX since the STI and Evo are out of my price range. Back in 2008 I was heavily biased towards getting an Evo but I cannot justify buying either of these cars used. I work full time right now and will be starting school full time as well a decent commute daily. I drive a 1985 944. Yeah... So I need the reliability of a new car that I know has been properly maintained and the tranny hasn't been flogged to the brink of death. Has anyone leased one of these before? I have every intention of buying the car once the lease is over but the freedom to bail on the car if it happens to get into a serious accident or ends up having constant problems is something to consider as a last resort. Also, it makes my monthly payments a lot lower which helps out as far as money stress goes. Can't wait to own a WRX, I've been obsessed with these AWD cars for so long now the realization of getting one soon is driving me nuts. Oh yeah, I'll be keeping the 944 so a handle change won't be necessary.  I think I see an LS1 in its (very distant) future.
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May 19, 2010 03:09
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Why lease? WRXs have good resale, you shouldn't have trouble selling it whenever you want...
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May 19, 2010 03:54
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Got a question for y'all. I drove an 86 Subaru wagon until 2002 when the carburetor went out. After years with a Honda Accord, I'm ready to get back to a Subaru wagon. A dealer near me has a 2006 Impreza WRX Limited Wagon with 123,000, clean body, accident free for 12,990. From what I see on Kelly Blue Book this would normally go for over 15,000 at a dealer. Is this a good deal? Could I get it away from them for a cheaper price?
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May 19, 2010 05:19
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Blaise posted:Why lease? WRXs have good resale, you shouldn't have trouble selling it whenever you want... I plan on buying out the car once the lease is over, but with a lease you extend the payment period so the monthly payments are about half. Jimmy Thief posted:Got a question for y'all. I drove an 86 Subaru wagon until 2002 when the carburetor went out. After years with a Honda Accord, I'm ready to get back to a Subaru wagon. That is a LOT of mileage for that much money. You can honestly find a much better deal than that.
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May 19, 2010 06:18
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joe944 posted:I plan on buying out the car once the lease is over, but with a lease you extend the payment period so the monthly payments are about half. Hmmm... would you avoid the car completely? Or would you lowball them and see if they bite? I've only owned 3 cars in my life and they were all bought from family members, so I'll admit that I'm a total noob when it comes to car shopping. Thanks for the heads up.
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May 19, 2010 08:16
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Just got my STI back from its 100,000 km service and it's down on boost. Only hitting 12 psi in 1st/2nd and 15 in 3rd, usually it's 18 psi max. The shop who did it are an independent Subaru specialist, and have had it a few days and found nothing thus far. No codes, no boost leak, suggested it was the AFM - "you've been having cold start problems haven't you?" (not really) - but as they haven't called today I'd say this wasn't the case. Anyone able to shed any light on this?
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May 19, 2010 09:16
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check for a boost leak (again/better). After that you'll want to check compression and the turbo.
jamal fucked around with this message at 10:22 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 10:11
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jamal posted:check for a boost leak (again/better). After that you'll want to check compression and the turbo. Cheers. Bit weird that something would go during the service without any symptoms though. I'm not even sure what I'm hoping the problem is at this stage...
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May 19, 2010 10:36
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Does anyone have any info on the more pedestrian trims of euro-spec imprezas from '05 to '08 or so? I'm looking at various cars, such as a 2008 Impreza 2.0 GX wagon (still new at dealer) and a 2006 1.5R (don't laugh... please?) Impreza wagon. The 2.0 GX in particular has no info anywhere where I've been able to find it. I'm toying with the idea of importing a WRX wagon from Germany, but so far insurance seems to exist somewhere between "loving expensive" and "impossible".
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May 19, 2010 12:42
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Almost done with my timing service job, just want to confirm a few things. Is this correct?  All the bolts for the pulleys are torqued to 32 ft-lbs. Alignment of timing marks: Left cam sprocket:  Crank sprocket:  Right cam sprocket:  The tensioner adjuster is moved to the left and held there while the bolts were torqued properly. Is there anything I'm missing before I pull the pin to release the tensioner adjuster?
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May 19, 2010 19:35
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joe944 posted:After drooling over Evo's and STI's for the last few years I'm finally serious about getting into one. Well, by one I mean I'm going to lease a 2010 WRX since the STI and Evo are out of my price range. Why not save up some cash for a few more months as a bigger down payment and wait for a used one in a few months. You will be giving away a gently caress ton of money by getting a lease then buying it after the fact when you could just own the car out right or just have a loan.
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May 19, 2010 22:29
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joe944 posted:2010 WRX Good choice. I was hesitant about the new WRX until the refresh, I got a new 2010 Limited and it's been really great so far. I ended up borrowing money from within my family though, since it can be hard to find one used (at least in Texas). My car came with everything but nav though, the salesman told me the Subaru system was crap anyway. Can someone in this thread recommend a good aftermarket nav system/head unit? I want to fix my terrible sound system while I'm at it. Also, does anybody's current gen WRX make a popping noise while the A/C is on? I can feel it through the brake pedal for some reason.
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May 19, 2010 23:10
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I started the first round of real mods to my 09 STi last week (not including the AP stage 1, boost gauge, or Rally Armor flaps installed previously). I installed an Invidia catted downpipe and flashed the AccessPort to stage 2 with the 91 octane AZ/CA/NV map. I took it for a drive and immediately noticed the engine was overboosting to 21psi. (actually 21.8 according to the datalogs.) Stage 2 is designed to run 18psi, so I backed off the throttle and installed the LWG map (low wastegate duty cycle). This lowered the boost to 16psi, which was around stage 1 boost targets. So regular stage 2 overboosts by almost 4psi and LWG is 2psi under the target. Annoying. However, I think I may have not giving the ECU enough time to adjust itself and learn after being rebooted, so I might go back to the regular Stage 2 map and see if the boost lowers to 18psi. I did notice, though, that the stage 2 LWG map increased my timing advance from 10 to 16 at WOT over the regular stage 2 map, which was very noticeable on the butt dyno, and the car feels very solid and fast. The increase in torque is especially nice, both off boost and when the pedal is on the floor. The Invidia downpipe bolted right up perfectly to the factory cat-back as though it came that way from Subaru. Quality is top notch and the welds are perfect. The only thing I noticed was some rust in the bellmouth right at the divider. You can see it in the pictures below. I'm not really going to worry about it since that area is now covered in soot and carbon, but it was kind of weird seeing rust on an otherwise perfect new downpipe. Pics:  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. I really want to throw in a better panel filter, but Cobb's manual states the following: Cobb Tuning posted:"MUST USE FACTORY INTAKE SYSTEM & FACTORY INTAKE FILTER. NO OTHER AFTERMARKET INTAKES, So, I'm going to wait until I get some more parts before doing a full tune somewhere. I just can't justify spending the money on a tune for the car for just a panel filter. Which is frustrating, because Cobb has over 120 OTS tunes for Evos including tunes for panel filters, injector sizes, fuel types, etc., while they only have 16 for the STi, which consist of stage 1, stage 1 ACN, stage 2, stage 2 ACN, valet, etc. Hopefully they decide to make a map that allows just a panel filter as that is a pretty common first mod. Though I made a post about that on their forums and didn't really get any feedback. I really miss the days of tuning my '91 Talon on backwoods country roads with an S-AFC and a palm pilot.
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May 19, 2010 23:14
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Backno posted:Why not save up some cash for a few more months as a bigger down payment and wait for a used one in a few months. You will be giving away a gently caress ton of money by getting a lease then buying it after the fact when you could just own the car out right or just have a loan. I plan on having very little free time in the next 5-8 years, with a very heavy school/work load. I understand that it's possible to find a used one in good shape that hasn't been beat on to hell and back, but the ones in that quality range are still priced rather high especially when compared to how much I'll be able to get off MSRP when I go to lease a 2010 while the 11's are hitting the market. Even then you never know and might end up with problems down the line. That and any WRX that isn't an 09/10 is just going to feel slow. For me it's about piece of mind, I'll gladly pay $2000 more for the price of a car if I can be the original owner. That and my 944 has been groaning about my 70 mile daily commute and has been needing repair after repair. I already plan to save up for 2 more months which is close to when I'll be starting school again and my free time to do ANYTHING will be nill.
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May 20, 2010 04:02
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BoostCreep posted:Stage 2 Get it protuned by someone who knows what they are doing. It will run so much better.
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May 20, 2010 04:05
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Can someone tell me how far off this is value wise for a WRX? http://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/1748181732.html Around here people seem to value Subarus pretty highly so take that into account.
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May 20, 2010 05:58
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I paid 6300 for mine of the same year a year ago with 73,000 miles on it in Miami. Whats the book value on them?
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May 20, 2010 14:12
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ab0z posted:Almost done with my timing service job, just want to confirm a few things. Ok I assume I'm good here? I'm going to temporarily put the crank pulley back on with the old bolt, and rotate the engine by hand a couple turns. If everything looks good then I'll reassemble everything, put fluids in, and start it up.
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May 20, 2010 14:38
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I have nothing to add as to whether or not all that looks good, but I'm curious as to how hard you found the job. The job needs to be done on my WRX and I keep flip flopping as to whether to do it myself or take it to someone to have it done. It seems like it should be dead simple once everything gets disassembled (how hard was the crank pully to get off?), but I just want to make sure there are no gotchas. I'm planning on replacing the belt, pulleys, tensioner, and waterpump while I'm in there (probably the thermostat too since I might as well at that point.) Also, as a general question to anyone, should I just go all OEM parts? Pricing out everything from Subaruparts.com comes to a little over $500 in parts, yet something like this which is claimed "OEM Performance" is $299 for all the same stuff. http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/25066/nm/Subaru+Impreza+WRX+Timing+Belt+and+Water+Pump+Kit+(02-04) My gut is telling me just to use OEM for something this important, but it would be a shame to just burn $200 if all that stuff was just OEM but not branded as such. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 14:49 on May 20, 2010 |
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May 20, 2010 14:45
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It's a pretty simple job. I was surprised how easy it was to remove the crank pulley, but I'm sure that has something to do with my car having 250,000 miles and it being off a couple times before. 1. get a copy of the factory service manual! Haynes/chilton SUCK in comparison. The little booklet of directions that was included with the timing kit (Gates brand) was better than my stupid chilton manual that supposedly covers EVERY model subaru from 1985-1996. 2. for a DOHC engine, a tool like this will probably be super handy to keep the cams from rotating. 3. if your timing kit doesn't include the tensioner/tensioner adjuster, buy one. that part is $130-150, a new engine is how much? I talked to a guy that runs a subaru performance shop, he said definitely replace it, don't try to compress it back (even though it says you can in the service manual). 4. if you can afford it, definitely go OEM for all parts. Check with your local dealer parts department, see if they have any discounts for clubs etc. Tell them you can get the stuff wholesale from your friend that works at [parts department in some other state] but you just don't want to wait, can they give you wholesale pricing? That worked for me to get $25 off the $150 tensioner adjuster from my local dealer.
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May 20, 2010 15:09
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I believe many of the Subaru factory service manuals are available in electronic form for a small fee from the Subaru USA website. Just pay your fee and then go on a mad downloading spree for a few days, then you'll be set. edit: I keep forgetting we have an OP - perhaps that information should go in there.
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May 20, 2010 16:14
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I actually already have the factory service manual so that's not an issue. It looks like the trickiest part of the DOHC engine is the driver's side cam gears since they are under valve spring tension when you remove the belt (thus they will go out of alignment no matter what you do) and it's important to rotate them in the proper direction to re-align them when you put the new belt on. I'm replacing the tensioner, that's a no-brainer. The only thing I'm going back and forth on is whether or not to replace the water pump. People seem to be evenly split on "do it while you are in there" and "I've never seen a subaru water pump fail so it's pointless." It's not so much the money in parts that's making me hesitate (OEM water pump is all of $90) it's the possibility of CREATING a coolant leak by screwing around with it that's making me pause.
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May 20, 2010 16:44
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So my new-to-me '02 WRX which I've put 400 miles on (200 since I changed the oil) has the dipstick reading halfway between full and fill. Half a quart on 200 miles? Great, time to replace the turbo? Seriously? At 104k miles? Jesus. 
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May 20, 2010 17:47
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Tatrakrad posted:Can someone in this thread recommend a good aftermarket nav system/head unit? I want to fix my terrible sound system while I'm at it. I really like Pioneer stuff. On the super cheap end the U310BT is perfectly adequate, decent nav, good bluetooth, iPod control, etc, and it has a removable screen. I have one in my 07 WRX and really like it for what I paid ($300.) Any of their other double DIN nav units are going to be significantly better (the 920 looks especially awesome) but you'll obviously pay for it. The JVC KW-NT3 also looks great, built in HD radio and free traffic info, full removable face plate, variable color illumination, and a really nice GUI.
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May 20, 2010 18:05
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So I am going to be picking up my dad's '03 WRX Wagon (in yellow for those that care) sometime soonish. It's got 94k miles on it, used mainly as a commuter car. I've heard bad things about the cat'd up-pipe that comes on the model and how it's a problem waiting to happen, grenades the turbo, saps power, etc etc etc. I can only imagine that this is a fairly uncommon failure brought about by poor design/CA emissions. So couple questions: 1) Is this something I should be concerned about, replacing 15 minutes after I buy the car? 2) If I should replace it, will any year up pipe bolt right up, or should I only be looking at roughly the same year STI's/later year wrx's that don't have cat's in the uppipe for a replacement. Any good gauge on what I should be looking to spend on a replacement one, any good aftermarket options? 3) How expensive is your typical timing belt replacement? (yes I know I should do it myself, etc) And how necessary is replacing the water pump?
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May 20, 2010 21:12
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One thing you should look out for, especially on the '03s, is that you should get a safe tune done to compensate for the catless up-pipe. A lot of people don't get a tune for it, and end up causing damage. ab0z and bull3964 are doing the timing service right now; check out earlier in the thread where I believe both of them explain what they purchased.
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May 20, 2010 22:14
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As far as the timing service, I believe the dealer will charge around $800-$1000 parts/labor to do the belt, tensioner, idler pulleys, and waterpump. Parts-wise, you are only looking at about $550 or so for OEM parts (if you do the waterpump), and that is discounted OEM parts from an online supplier. It will be more if you roll into your local parts counter. So, there is a significant savings in doing it by yourself. I've never done it myself, but my dad has done it on my old '86 Corolla so if I he helps I shouldn't have any problem as access on a longitudinally mounted boxer is loads better than a transverse inline 4. My biggest concern, as always, is snapping a bolt off which tends to ruin days.
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May 20, 2010 23:09
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bull3964 posted:My biggest concern, as always, is snapping a bolt off which tends to ruin days. for the timing service the only fasteners you should have any problems with are the ones for the cover, the captive nuts on mine all broke out of the plastic rear cover.
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May 20, 2010 23:12
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Amandyke posted:Any good gauge on what I should be looking to spend on a replacement one, any good aftermarket options? I just bought a $50 '04 STi uppipe shipped about 10 posts up. That's about the going rate on nasioc as well.
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May 20, 2010 23:48
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Interestingly, it looks the like 2010 WRX has roughly 20 more horsepower than the '09, thanks to tweaked ECU settings. http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/tuning-electronic-engine-management/134326738-cobb-accessport-2010-wrx-cheated.html
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May 21, 2010 03:14
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| # ? May 14, 2024 01:44 |
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ab0z posted:for the timing service the only fasteners you should have any problems with are the ones for the cover, the captive nuts on mine all broke out of the plastic rear cover. Then how did you get the cover back on?
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May 21, 2010 13:36
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