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http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/mcy/1722074002.html I'm headed out to look at this on Thursday as my first bike. I've completed the MSF, but even so, I'm planning on spending a lot of time in the commuter parking lots and neighborhood roads around here. I have a while left before I will feel comfortable enough out on the main streets. Is there anything in that ad that really stands out as an alert that I should look out for? There's no one in the DC area who wants to come check it out with me this Thursday, is there  ?
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May 4, 2010 12:48
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Agrias120 posted:http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/mcy/1722074002.html Make sure to specify the bike is cold (i.e., hasn't been started) before you get there. This way you can check to see if there's any starting / choke / carburetor problems. Ask if the tires have been replaced. Check various bolt heads to see if they have holes drilled through them (used to wire them up for track racing). Ask if it has any additions to it; new chain, sprockets, stainless lines. If it's bone stock, $2400 seems a bit high for a 2000, see if you can get that down a bit. (I don't know what the market is like in DC, though.)
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May 4, 2010 21:26
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Agrias120 posted:http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/mcy/1722074002.html I know its nearing summer and everything but I was about to buy a 2000 SV650 for $1900 in September. It didn't have damage like this one. You can probably use that info to talk him down, if you really feel like you need help on Thursday give me a PM about time/location and ill see if I can go down with you, mind you I don't know much about carbs since I have a second gen but I know a decent amount about the other bits and what to look out for especially with SV's.
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May 5, 2010 03:31
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I just got a 2001 SV650S today in amazing shape for much cheaper, talk that guy down. Bent handlebars is bad news.
Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 05:25 on May 6, 2010 |
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May 5, 2010 04:25
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I think I might just go ahead and pass on the bike, then. SV650s pop up with somewhat normal frequency in the DC area, but most of them seem to hover just under $3000. Hopefully I can find a cheaper one that is worth the price in the next couple of weeks.
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May 5, 2010 14:56
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After two years of riding both on and offroad with my KTM enduro (heavy downpour in 70mph freeway traffic that suddenly stops and you're on knobbies YEAAA) I figured an SV650 would be a good transition to streetbikering. Managed to snag a 2006 SV650 naked with 1400 miles (yup) in showroom condition. Everyone thinks it's a brand new motorcycle, and what a handsome little guy he is. I've probably put about 45 miles of city/highway driving on it so far, and WOW riding this thing is a looot different than riding my KTM:  Let's get you out of that factory oil baby. 1) it's HEAVY. I can lean that 250lb dirt bike over sideways at a stop and pick it back up with no problem leading to many bad leg-sticking-out habits. 2) the steering is insanely different at low speeds. My KTM on asphalt pretty much acts like the ol' MSF rule of below 10mph means regular steering and above means countersteering; in fact it behaves exactly like a bicycle in that regard. The SV feels more like below 5mph is regular steering, 5-20mph is regular steering where the wheel darts heavily in the turned direction making a constant turn angle at low speeds much more difficult, and above 20 is countersteering. I'm pretty sure this is entirely because of the radically different steering geometries of the two bikes, and I'm getting used to it but low speed maneuvering feels like day 1 of riding all over again. 3) It's quiet and smooth as gently caress. I guess this is a given comparing a japanese commutocycle to an austrian racing bike. The transmission on my KTM feels like things are breaking with every shift, the bike wheelies easily and rows through the gears very quickly but lugs on the freeway. This SV is obviously worlds better at freeway riding, the power delivery is incredibly smooth by comparison. Also having a tachometer is cool, and I'm so used to rock hard suspension and wooden plank seating that I can't really complain about the 'horrible forks and seat' of the SV. The girls:  So far I am very impressed with my second street legal bike. It idles without overheating, it doesn't melt its own turn signals during regular use, and there's no 10-15 hour maintenance interval that I'm aware of. I should probably replace these 5 year old but hardly used tires at some point, I guess. PS: gently caress CARBS I AM NEVER BUYING A NON-FI BIKE AGAIN Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 04:02 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 12, 2010 04:00
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I'm looking for a tankbag for my 2001 SV650S, are there any hard and fast recommendations? Or will all the cheap magnetic tankbags be about equal?
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May 12, 2010 04:09
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:2) the steering is insanely different at low speeds. My KTM on asphalt pretty much acts like the ol' MSF rule of below 10mph means regular steering and above means countersteering; in fact it behaves exactly like a bicycle in that regard. The SV feels more like below 5mph is regular steering, 5-20mph is regular steering where the wheel darts heavily in the turned direction making a constant turn angle at low speeds much more difficult, and above 20 is countersteering. I'm pretty sure this is entirely because of the radically different steering geometries of the two bikes, and I'm getting used to it but low speed maneuvering feels like day 1 of riding all over again.  Look for tankbags that fill your needs, for fit/size/waterproofness/whatever, they're all pretty much the same.
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May 12, 2010 05:21
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This may be a dumb question. .. My 06 SV650S is making a kind of static-y or sizzling sound when moving. It doesn't happen when the bike is stationary. When rolling around with the clutch pulled in or just coasting in gear you can hear it but without a helmet. When actually under power or accelerating the sound seems louder as I can hear it with helmet on. The chain is a little dirty but I haven't got a rear stand so I haven't gotten to cleaning it yet. I changed the oil today and it doesn't seem to have made a difference. The old oil was actually really clean. A bit dark but no metal shavings or anything. Anything I should look at?
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May 12, 2010 05:36
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Your chain is probably toast.
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May 12, 2010 05:58
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Z3n posted:Stupid question, but you have checked the tire pressures, right? Congrats on the bike Yea pressures are good. There's just a lot of interface differences between high CG/straight bar and low CG/bent bar. Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 13:17 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 12, 2010 13:15
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What is the recommended route for the forks on the SV? I know they are pretty sub par, and I know you can do the swap from the GSXR (certain models) to the SV, but was is the cheaper "I dont need race forks" option for the SV that gives good/great results?
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May 12, 2010 14:26
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Yea pressures are good. There's just a lot of interface differences between high CG/straight bar and low CG/bent bar. Ahh, ok. I'll have to see how things feel when I get back on a streetbike...maybe going from street to dirt is an easier transition. mAlfunkti0n posted:What is the recommended route for the forks on the SV? I know they are pretty sub par, and I know you can do the swap from the GSXR (certain models) to the SV, but was is the cheaper "I dont need race forks" option for the SV that gives good/great results? You've got 4 options, in terms of cost from lowest to highest: 1. Increase the weight of the fork oil. If you're relatively light, that'll do the job for you. 2. Respring/change the fork oil. 3. Install Ricor Intiminators, they go in with the stock springs and increase damping. Overall results in all arenas have been VERY positive, the AFM SV650 production championship is running them and has nothing but good things to say. 4. GSX-R swap. Has the added advantage of sharpening up the steering (shorter forks) and upgrading the brakes as well. For DIY, you're looking at around 20$ for the first one, 120$ for the second, 320$ for the 3rd, and 300-600$ for the 4th, depending on the deal you can find on a front end.
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May 12, 2010 14:47
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Other option is aftermarket springs for the forks. I run Hagon progressive springs in my forks and they're certainly way better all-rounders than OEM springs - you won't see outstanding improvement in any one area but across the board the suspension will feel better.
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May 12, 2010 14:56
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If I were to go the route of the GSXR swap, how difficult is it to get the top triple drilled to support the standard bars? I am not a fan of clip ons, and would love to keep or install a set of Renthal fat bars on here.
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May 12, 2010 15:20
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ranathari posted:Other option is aftermarket springs for the forks. I run Hagon progressive springs in my forks and they're certainly way better all-rounders than OEM springs - you won't see outstanding improvement in any one area but across the board the suspension will feel better. I paired this with a fork oil change because if you're moving up spring rates, chances are you're going to need more damping to keep things in line. I'd call a company like racetech and see what they have to say about recommend fork oil weights...their spring rate search function is here: http://old.racetech.com/evalving/menu/searchstreet.asp mAlfunkti0n posted:If I were to go the route of the GSXR swap, how difficult is it to get the top triple drilled to support the standard bars? I am not a fan of clip ons, and would love to keep or install a set of Renthal fat bars on here. I have taken a drill to quite a few triple clamps and mounted bars on them. I've seen people fill the back of the triple with 2 part epoxy to provide a flat area for nut of the bar mounts to clamp on. Obviously, you do all of this at your own risk, the possibility of you fragging your triple tree in an accident goes up significantly, but it's a cheap and easy way to mount bars on a set of triples. I've put roughly 2-3k on bikes that I drilled for bars, and haven't had any issues with them yet. That includes rough stuff like stoppies and wheelies.
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May 12, 2010 16:30
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Z3n posted:I paired this with a fork oil change because if you're moving up spring rates, chances are you're going to need more damping to keep things in line. I'd call a company like racetech and see what they have to say about recommend fork oil weights...their spring rate search function is here: I quite liked the Hagons because they're universal rather than you picking from specific spring rates to suit you. The pack includes their recommended weight of fork oil so it's a lovely simple job for home mechanics to do - very little thinking required.
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May 12, 2010 16:35
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ranathari posted:I quite liked the Hagons because they're universal rather than you picking from specific spring rates to suit you. The pack includes their recommended weight of fork oil so it's a lovely simple job for home mechanics to do - very little thinking required. Ahh, yeah. I'm not personally partial to progressive springs but anything is an improvement over the hugely unsprung and underdamped front end.
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May 12, 2010 16:40
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GanjamonII posted:This may be a dumb question. .. Mine makes the same kind of sound. I never noticed it coasting, but it does that when I give it some gas. I thought it was my chain, but it still did that after I got a new chain and sprockets. I guess that's just what it sounds like V  V
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May 13, 2010 00:07
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:2) the steering is insanely different at low speeds. My KTM on asphalt pretty much acts like the ol' MSF rule of below 10mph means regular steering and above means countersteering; in fact it behaves exactly like a bicycle in that regard. The SV feels more like below 5mph is regular steering, 5-20mph is regular steering where the wheel darts heavily in the turned direction making a constant turn angle at low speeds much more difficult, and above 20 is countersteering. I'm pretty sure this is entirely because of the radically different steering geometries of the two bikes, and I'm getting used to it but low speed maneuvering feels like day 1 of riding all over again. How worn are your tires? When I first got my SV, it handled like this. The tires had a wide commuter flat strip. As soon as I got new tires, I was amazed at how much easier low speed maneuvering became.
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May 13, 2010 00:12
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WildWanderer posted:Mine makes the same kind of sound. I never noticed it coasting, but it does that when I give it some gas. I thought it was my chain, but it still did that after I got a new chain and sprockets. Awesome! I'll ride it until something breaks
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May 13, 2010 01:59
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GanjamonII posted:Awesome! I'll ride it until something breaks The noise is hardly audible, I figured it was just the chain vibrating... now you're getting me all  about it.
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May 13, 2010 02:11
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Enilev posted:How worn are your tires? When I first got my SV, it handled like this. The tires had a wide commuter flat strip. As soon as I got new tires, I was amazed at how much easier low speed maneuvering became. The bike only has 1400 miles so the tires are pretty decent aside from being 5 years old. I'm getting used to it gradually, I think I just need some more miles on this thing. Oddly the last two days it has exhibited a pretty rough idle on a cold start. The apparent RPM seems to fluctuate a lot by the noise, but the needle is only jumping +/-100rpm so I think it might not be firing on both cylinders all the time when cold. It quickly goes away and the bike drives just fine so I'm not sure what is causing this. I think I will start tapping things with a hammer until it sounds better.
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May 13, 2010 03:51
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My oil is right on the F mark after changing it today, and I can't shift into neutral if I'm on an incline and the bike is running. Is there some correlation here? Should I redo the oil change and not fill it so much?  I'll be going by the dealer sometime soon to stock up on parts. I didn't change the oil filter this time, but I will next. Planning to pick up 2 oil filters, 4 crush washers, 4 tiny light bulbs to fix my mostly unlit dash. Any other maintenance items that I should grab while I'm at the dealer? I'll also ask them how much it would be for them to tear apart the dash and replace the bulbs. It really looks like a pain. Also, I'm probably due for a valve adjustment and my chain is pretty much hosed, should I pay up for a chain from the dealer or get a cheaper one online? Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 05:46 on May 13, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 05:42
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Weinertron posted:My oil is right on the F mark after changing it today, and I can't shift into neutral if I'm on an incline and the bike is running. Is there some correlation here? Should I redo the oil change and not fill it so much? What kind of oil?
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May 13, 2010 05:47
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timb posted:What kind of oil? Supertech 10W-40. Cheapo stuff, but it should be good. Not energy conserving. Clutch isn't sticking or anything.
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May 13, 2010 05:48
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You are checking it upright, correct? Not on the sidestand?
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May 13, 2010 05:50
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Z3n posted:You are checking it upright, correct? Not on the sidestand? Yes. When it's on the sidestand I don't see any oil in the sight glass, as it should be. With the bike completely upright it is right at the F mark, possibly a tiny bit overfull. Very, very close to the F mark though. I wouldn't be worrying about it at all except that I can only shift into neutral on flat ground or inclines forward. Edit: By crawling SV-specific forums, it looks like I am having a symptom of a slight oil overfill. I'm willing to live with this, but will a slight overfill cause any other problems? The engine does have 34k on it, I'm assuming it'll burn a bit of oil so 1000 miles into this oil change I'll be between the F and L lines no problem. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 05:56 on May 13, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 05:51
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Weinertron posted:Yes. When it's on the sidestand I don't see any oil in the sight glass, as it should be. With the bike completely upright it is right at the F mark, possibly a tiny bit overfull. Very, very close to the F mark though. I wouldn't be worrying about it at all except that I can only shift into neutral on flat ground or inclines forward. Nah, it won't cause any other problems. I ran my trackbike topped off at all times, no problems. Same with my street bikes. I never noticed any difficulty getting into neutral, but maybe that's just because by the time I got my SV I had quite a bit of experience.
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May 13, 2010 06:12
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Doing some maintenance on my bike before I embark on a 205 mile trip to go see a friend. I've changed the sprockets and chain last night. Today I'm planning on changing the clutch cable and getting everything buttoned up. Also I'm supposed to be getting the Nelson Rigg soft luggage in the mail today. So excited. Any recommendations on what to use to lube the clutch cable? Is it teflon lined and not meant to be lubed?
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May 13, 2010 17:01
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Coredump posted:Doing some maintenance on my bike before I embark on a 205 mile trip to go see a friend. I've changed the sprockets and chain last night. Today I'm planning on changing the clutch cable and getting everything buttoned up. Also I'm supposed to be getting the Nelson Rigg soft luggage in the mail today. So excited. DO NOT LUBE THE CABLE! They (teflon/nylon lined cables) are designed to be run dry. If you get oil in it, it will damage the surface and trap debris that will ruin the cable much quicker than if you left it alone.
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May 13, 2010 17:22
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A bit late. But after spending a week smashing my head against the problem of my front brakes not bleeding, I (dangerously) rode it to a mechanic I know who works down on the airforce base here. He tells me it might be about two hours before He can get to it, so I start hoofing it to the bus stop down the road. 5 minutes of walking and I get a call saying my bike is done. It was entirely my own dumbass mistake. Turns out that after successfully doing the rears, I went ADD or retarded and poured the brake fluid into the front reservoir on top of the loving rubber seal. It never made it to the lines, and therefore couldn't bleed. $40 well spent. Stainless lines do make a pretty nice difference in brake feel.
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May 20, 2010 02:06
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Got my safety inspection done, apparently there's a limit of 1 inch for the alignment. If you're more than that, you fail. I was right at one inch. Which explains the slight leaning to left without any gas (and no hands), and the leaning to right when front brakes are applied. I also need to bleed the brakes and change the the fork oil, said the front was a little too squishy. How hard is it to change fork oil?
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May 20, 2010 03:21
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Anyone experimented with changing sprocket sizes on their SV? I've got a 2000 N model which is about due for a new chain and am thinking about changing things around a bit.
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May 20, 2010 07:09
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Laranzu posted:A bit late. But after spending a week smashing my head against the problem of my front brakes not bleeding, I (dangerously) rode it to a mechanic I know who works down on the airforce base here. I...how...what. HClChicken posted:Got my safety inspection done, apparently there's a limit of 1 inch for the alignment. If you're more than that, you fail. I was right at one inch. Which explains the slight leaning to left without any gas (and no hands), and the leaning to right when front brakes are applied. What alignment are you talking about? Fork oil isn't too difficult to change, do you have a shop manual? NipplesTheCat posted:Anyone experimented with changing sprocket sizes on their SV? I've got a 2000 N model which is about due for a new chain and am thinking about changing things around a bit. I've run just about every variant of gearing out there. What are you looking for with the gearing change? More acceleration? Lower cruising RPM?
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May 20, 2010 17:43
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I've decided I'm getting the Suzuki SFV650 for my first bike. The Gladius looks amazing, so I'm going to do my best to save up, if I end up giving up I'll just go ahead and get one of the older models, but right now, I'm shooting for the gold with this one.
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May 20, 2010 19:21
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Typik posted:I've decided I'm getting the Suzuki SFV650 for my first bike. The Gladius looks amazing, so I'm going to do my best to save up, if I end up giving up I'll just go ahead and get one of the older models, but right now, I'm shooting for the gold with this one. I'll be the first to recommend a used bike for your first but it's your choice. I wouldn't want the pressure of pretty plastics while learning the ropes.
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May 20, 2010 19:35
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kylej posted:I'll be the first to recommend a used bike for your first but it's your choice. I wouldn't want the pressure of pretty plastics while learning the ropes. Well see the thing is is that I want a bike that'll last me a good few years. I plan on taking care of whatever bike I get as best as possible, people keep suggesting I get a cheaper, used bike first, but the thing is, I don't have enough money to just buy a bike, resell it when I feel I have the skill to upgrade, and resave up all of the money lost in what use I put into it. Plus, if the ninja broke down on me, or I wrecked on the ninja, I feel like I'd hardly get any return on the cash I spent, and that just wouldn't work out for me.
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May 20, 2010 21:44
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Typik posted:Well see the thing is is that I want a bike that'll last me a good few years. I plan on taking care of whatever bike I get as best as possible, people keep suggesting I get a cheaper, used bike first, but the thing is, I don't have enough money to just buy a bike, resell it when I feel I have the skill to upgrade, and resave up all of the money lost in what use I put into it. Plus, if the ninja broke down on me, or I wrecked on the ninja, I feel like I'd hardly get any return on the cash I spent, and that just wouldn't work out for me. That's not really how bikes work. You buy a decent condition starter bike at 1000-2000$, and sell it for drat near exactly that (or more) when you're ready to move up. If you shop well, you can make money on your first bike. Breaking even is sort of a given because there are so many people out there looking for starter bikes. And you're not going to get any return on a crashed bike, period, especially if it's a financed or new bike, and the devaluation from a crash on those will be extreme. If you crash a thousand dollar ninja 250/500/GS500, and it's still recognizable as a motorcycle when you're done, you'll still be able to get at least 500$ out of it in one piece or 1000$+ if you part it out. And something like a GS500 or earlier model SV650 can absolutely be a bike you'll be happy with for years...if you're the sort that stays happy with any motorcycle.
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May 20, 2010 21:55
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Typik posted:Well see the thing is is that I want a bike that'll last me a good few years. I plan on taking care of whatever bike I get as best as possible, people keep suggesting I get a cheaper, used bike first, but the thing is, I don't have enough money to just buy a bike, resell it when I feel I have the skill to upgrade, and resave up all of the money lost in what use I put into it. Plus, if the ninja broke down on me, or I wrecked on the ninja, I feel like I'd hardly get any return on the cash I spent, and that just wouldn't work out for me. Like z3n said, you're applying new bike logic to used bikes. Used motorcycles don't depreciate like cars. I bought my Ninja 250 in mint condition for $2200. I sold it 4500 miles later (with worn tires) for $2000. If you buy a used SV, EX250 or 500 you will save a ton of money and heartache if you do drop it. Hell, I've seen mint Ninja 650s with almost no miles for $3200-3500 on Craigslist. If you bought an EX650 you would have a fuel injected, modern bike with full fairings and bright colors. The general public will think you ride a Ducati. Let someone else take the hit on new.
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May 20, 2010 22:13
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