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Philip J Fry posted:Look just to the right of the oil cap on the edge of the head; it might be buried under a little bit of grime and is partially obscured by the valve cover (above port #4). Pre-96 was 7120, 96-99 is 0630 and 00-01 had 0031. The castings used by year vary between XJ's and WJ's so there's no exact science to it but the 0031's liked to crack between #3 and #4 cylinders. All I'm finding is grime covering rust. I think the number is covered by the heat shield: http://www.crazyphools.com/xj_block.jpg (linked for large pic) I'm destroying the heat shield when I try to pry it up a bit and peak underneath. and I can't see poo poo except grime and rust.
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May 14, 2010 14:28
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That's odd, I've never seen a heat shield on there before. I guarantee the casting number is hiding out though. Since you're selling it anyway it's probably not a big deal but it would be nice to have peace of mind in case the thing does go kablooey right after you've sold it and the buyer tries to sue your rear end for handing over a lemon. Since it's been kept up with maintenance though, it's probably fine. The 0331 is just like the D35; some people blow the thing up on the street with stock tires while others can beat the piss out of them on the trails with 35's for years without a problem.
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May 14, 2010 14:51
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fordham posted:Tint on front windows is illegal in many states. Cops will ticket you for it (I know because my brother's a cop in CT and tickets people for it all the time). I don't have any remotes for the locks. The horn honks (only some of the time) when I use the power lock switch on the inside of the door.
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May 14, 2010 15:48
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PBCrunch posted:I don't have any remotes for the locks. The horn honks (only some of the time) when I use the power lock switch on the inside of the door. That's pretty weird. It's a Jeep thing I guess.
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May 14, 2010 22:18
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Philip J Fry posted:That's odd, I've never seen a heat shield on there before. I guarantee the casting number is hiding out though. Since you're selling it anyway it's probably not a big deal but it would be nice to have peace of mind in case the thing does go kablooey right after you've sold it and the buyer tries to sue your rear end for handing over a lemon. Since it's been kept up with maintenance though, it's probably fine. The 0331 is just like the D35; some people blow the thing up on the street with stock tires while others can beat the piss out of them on the trails with 35's for years without a problem. In Mass the car has to pass inspection (which it will right now) and other than that, it's as-is. I've got the D35 rear diff too but that's been fine. They took the cover off last year to change the fluid and it was all good then.
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May 14, 2010 22:20
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Any info yet on what the 2011 Wrangler is getting? A better engine? Also, I live in NW Colorado and on the way to work today a guy had a 1969 Jeepster Commando in his yard for 5k. It looked to be all original and in decent shape. Had a hard top that only went behind the front seats. The back had those wooden planks on the side like the Scrambler. Last week he had a Comanche or Honcho parked for sale but it's gone already. Was pretty beat though. Didn't stop to look at it closely.
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May 15, 2010 06:46
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jdfording posted:Any info yet on what the 2011 Wrangler is getting? A better engine? Yeah, it was confirmed that the 2011 Wrangler is going to be getting the new Pentastar V6 that's debuting in the WK2 along with a few adjustments to the suspension. From Allpar: Allpar posted:Changes to “directly address” customer feedback, including off-roaders. The 2011 Wrangler is due in the second or third quarter of 2010, and either the 2011 or 2012 will have a standard Pentastar V6; a revised VM diesel is only for export markets. The Scrambler pickup appears to be “no-go” for a few years. How do Jeep goons feel about the new Grand Cherokee that's coming out this year? I'm seriously looking into getting one because I thought the looks and suspension were pretty sweet. I thought of it as a mini-range rover but it seems a lot of Jeep enthusiasts on a number of forums are quite against it. Edit: I should note I'm not a serious off-roader as most of the stuff I've done has been pretty mild. I'll mostly be using this as my DD so I want something that will give me some on road refinement but still be somewhat capable for me to keep doing the mild stuff I've done. Stultus fucked around with this message at 00:57 on May 20, 2010 |
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May 20, 2010 00:49
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Stultus posted:How do Jeep goons feel about the new Grand Cherokee that's coming out this year? I'm seriously looking into getting one because I thought the looks and suspension were pretty sweet. I thought of it as a mini-range rover but it seems a lot of Jeep enthusiasts on a number of forums are quite against it. I think it's the single ugliest vehicle Jeep has ever made—yes, even worse than the purposefully-ugly Compass—but spec-wise I don't mind it. If I didn't intend to drive my WK into the ground, I'd at least consider the ugly fucker. Enjoy your regular visits to the service department if you buy an '11, though. First-year Jeeps and TSBs (though many of them minor) go together like peanut butter and jelly.
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May 20, 2010 17:41
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My 1999 Jeep Cherokee seems to be kind of slow to stop. As a lifelong car driver do I need to just re-adjust my expectations or are these trucks somewhat under-braked? Are there big brake options out there? Rear disc conversions? I am especially interested in swaps using OEM parts from bigger trucks, maybe Grand Cherokees or Dodge Rams or something.
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May 20, 2010 22:05
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PBCrunch posted:My 1999 Jeep Cherokee seems to be kind of slow to stop. As a lifelong car driver do I need to just re-adjust my expectations or are these trucks somewhat under-braked? Can you make the ABS come on with dry pavement? If so, brake upgrades won't do anything for you. Edit: assuming they have ABS, if not, can you lock the wheels up?
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May 20, 2010 22:21
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sanchez posted:Can you make the ABS come on with dry pavement? If so, brake upgrades won't do anything for you. While rear discs really don't add a great deal to your stopping power, they do have an advantage for 4x4s in that they don't collect gloop inside them like drums can. PBCrunch, your first stop should be checking that your braking hardware is in good condition in the first place. No point in worrying about upgrades if you've got grooved discs, lovely pads and ancient brake fluid running through a leaky system that's full of air.
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May 20, 2010 22:45
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Still no diesel gently caress Chrysler eat a dick.
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May 20, 2010 22:56
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Molten Llama posted:I think it's the single ugliest vehicle Jeep has ever made—yes, even worse than the purposefully-ugly Compass—but spec-wise I don't mind it. If I didn't intend to drive my WK into the ground, I'd at least consider the ugly fucker. You think the whole car is ugly? I'm not too big on the back of it but other than that I thought the truck was pretty sharp looking. Comparing it to the Compass is a bit much though.
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May 21, 2010 00:47
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InitialDave posted:It's not all about instant stopping power. Even fairly lovely brakes will lock the wheels up. But try doing it twice... I will probably get the front end in the air and have a look at the front brakes. The system could probably use a good bleed as well.
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May 21, 2010 00:50
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PBCrunch posted:It isn't really that the truck can't stop, it just seems like the intitial bite is kind of weak and it takes too much pedal travel/effort. I switched my front pads to Hawk LTS pads and they stop better, but my 2000 is the same way. Just sluggish in stopping, especially with a trailer. You'll never achieve the nice bite the newer 4-wheel disc cars have. It always takes a lot more pressure than other cars to stop the XJ. It stops, you just have to push harder. I've read about conversions with the disc rear axle of a grand cherokee and swapping the booster with a GC as well.
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May 21, 2010 02:10
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The GC booster swap seems to be for older XJs with a single bore master cylinder. I did some reading about rear disc swaps and using parts from a Liberty seems to be the hot ticket, so I will keep my eyes open for one of those being parted out.
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May 21, 2010 15:30
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Stultus posted:You think the whole car is ugly? I'm not too big on the back of it but other than that I thought the truck was pretty sharp looking. Comparing it to the Compass is a bit much though. I like the sides from the A-pillar to the C-pillar, from the beltline down. That looks sharp as hell and is a nice reference to both the current model and the Trailhawk concept. Everything from the C-pillar back is Generic SUV #387 and the front end just looks ridiculous and bulky to me. I've definitely seen worse (the new 4Runner comes to mind), but it feels like they played exquisite corpse with body designs. Retro-futuristic front, sexy middle, bland rear. What's scaring me now is how much it actually looks like the Compass. I just threw that in off-the-cuff for humor, but the matte blackout panels, the partial-height doors, the half-trimmed windows, the super-swoopy window arch... I can't unsee it now. The Compass is spreading. 
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May 21, 2010 17:19
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Molten Llama posted:I like the sides from the A-pillar to the C-pillar, from the beltline down. That looks sharp as hell and is a nice reference to both the current model and the Trailhawk concept. Haha, like I said earlier I definitely agree that the back isn't all that attractive. Have you seen the truck in person though? When I saw it at the NY auto show the front didn't seem to be that bulky but I can definitely see why you think it's bulky in the pictures. Aside from the auto show last year I don't know how many public appearances it's had.
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May 22, 2010 06:20
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I might be looking at an 88 Comanche soon. Straight 6, 2wd, 5-speed and in good shape for 1200. The guy says the trans is noisy and it seems like it has the weaker peugeot trans. Overall these seem like cool trucks, but if I buy this should I be expecting to have to do the trans swap at some point?
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May 22, 2010 19:47
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A buddy of mine has an 09 wrangler sport but he is having some problems with the soft top. I noticed this when we were on a rather long drive from our duty station in upstate new york to massachusetts. One of the side windows on the soft top kept coming loose from the door and flapping a bit. He is very annoyed by this and is wondering if anyone else is having this problem with new wranglers. It could be an easy fix but he is really pissed about it. I will be purchasing a 2010 wrangler sport when i get back from crappy afghanistan in a couple months. I think ill have to go with the hard top though because winters at my duty station up north suck rear end. I also heard hard tops give you slightly better highway performance. Normally i wouldnt care but ill be driving this thing home to boston quite a bit.
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May 23, 2010 08:17
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Question for the AI Jeep Crew: As I've probably mentioned on here before, I have an '06 Wrangler Sport. Currently it has a 2" Rubicon Express budget lift and 32" BFG MTR's. I am in the process of upgrading to a 4" short arm with a 1" body lift. I already have springs and shocks, and I'm about to order a full set of Rough Country adjustable X-Flex control arms (upper and lower). I'm also going to add an adjustable track bar, and I'm going to get a high-clearance belly pan and SYE before all is said and done. Now, my question is in regard to the axles. Ideally, I would like to run 35" tires with some sort of lockers. My research indicates that 4" + 1" body lift should clear the tires without any issues, but I'm concerned about my axles holding up with the lockers. I have the stock D44 rear and D30 front. I'm not really worried about the D44, but how bad of an idea is it to run lockers and 35s on a D30? Even if I upgrade to say 30 spline axles?? If I went with 33's instead of 35's, how much difference would that make? Would I just be better off trying to find a front D44 to swap in?
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May 23, 2010 17:34
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P-Rich90 posted:A buddy of mine has an 09 wrangler sport but he is having some problems with the soft top. I noticed this when we were on a rather long drive from our duty station in upstate new york to massachusetts. One of the side windows on the soft top kept coming loose from the door and flapping a bit. He is very annoyed by this and is wondering if anyone else is having this problem with new wranglers. It could be an easy fix but he is really pissed about it. This got like half the guys I know with soft tops, me included. In the plastic door frame, there is a groove that faces forwards. On the removable side panel, there is a plastic 'L' stitched onto the leading edge. Put tab B into slot A BEFORE you start to zip up the side panel, and the panel will never flap again. On new soft tops, the edge is almost too thick to fit into the groove, but once you know it's supposed to go there, you'll apply the necessary force. I've got to make some space in the garage before I can take the hardtop off for summer, otherwise I'd take some photos to explain better. Edit: Skip to chapter 5 of this video: http://www.jeep.com/en/owners/soft_top_guide/wrangler_unlimited_soft_top_guide/ Gavitron fucked around with this message at 08:08 on May 25, 2010 |
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May 25, 2010 08:05
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323LX posted:Question for the AI Jeep Crew: The D30 isn't that bad, but 35's will probably push it to its limit. 33's i'm told will hold up fine depending on what you're doing. I guess it depends on what kind of locker you're talking about throwing on.
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May 27, 2010 08:55
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Ok, so back in January, I was looking to get a cheap Jeep or other 4x4 SUV, and I was kindly warned off of a mid-80's Cherokee with a 2.8L and a noisy manual transmission. I continued to look and I brought this home today. It's a '92 4.0L HO Cherokee, with 158K & automatic transmission. I paid $575 for it, and it has some rusty rockers, dents and rust on a couple of the doors, and general scratches, rust spots, and so on. The engine runs fine, has good oil pressure on a cold start, and the transmission shifts well. I haven't engaged the 4wd, but I am assured it works by the teenaged seller that was a bit too naive to lie (if it doesn't work, I have a line on parts, my mechanic is a Jeep guy). EDIT: 4WD works, I tried it out in the gravel lot of a now-defunct trailer park. However- I'm not entirely sure it shifts into overdrive (4th), and while I was driving it on the highway to get it home, I noticed a wobble in the rear end, so I didn't try to play around to get it to shift a bunch on its own. Apart from some minor upgrades (like a two hitch, for example), I plan to keep it pretty stock. This will be a temporary car for my wife, and a backup for winter. All that having been said, are there any must do improvements that would make much difference in driveability and enhance day-to-day use? The "to fix" list so far: Rear shocks oil and transmission fluid change replace windshield (starred by a rock) replace passenger side mirror radio antenna and stereo wiring unfuck repair driver door hinge guide pin/bushing repair/replace steering wheel (padding is torn to poo poo) fix/recharge AC general cleaning and beautification But also, I'm really looking forward to stealing this back from my wife periodically to take to the farm for fun times up and down the lanes and from field to field. presidentnixon fucked around with this message at 22:07 on May 28, 2010 |
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May 28, 2010 04:58
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presidentnixon posted:cheap Jeep Wobble in the back could just be tires out of balance, but could be something worse. U-joints are commonly pretty worn out by that age as well and worth looking at. My XJ's 4th gear actually ran at a higher RPM than my old '94 GC's. I think it's ~2500 RPMs @ 70mph. You should be able to count the gear shifts and TC lockup pretty easily. To reduce (slightly) highway noise you can move both roof rack crossbars as far back on the car as possible.
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May 28, 2010 14:36
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I've been thinking of getting a tow vehicle for my 1991 Eagle Talon for a while now since it will never be street legal in California, and after doing a ton of research I'd like to get a 93-95 Grand Cherokee V8 with the factory tow package. My budget is $3,000 which means the mileage will be pretty high. I found a '94 Limited with everything I want, including the super plush leather seats that seem impossible to find, for $2,750. It seems to be in great shape, but something that concerns me is in the picture below...  Obviously the Jeep logo has been reapplied since the P is lined up with the rest of the word, looking like JeeP instead of Jeep. I assume this means either a repaint or rear end rebuild. I realize I'll have to go see the car to check it out, but does this look like a problem? My other question is that the car has 172,000 miles. It does come with a 3 month/3,000 mile warranty which is nice, and it gives me some faith that the used dealer that is selling it believes it to be a solid car. Having said that, would a Grand Cherokee V8 with 172k miles be relatively reliable for a while as a daily driver (with occasionally towing a 3,200lb car with trailer), or do things start going wrong around this mileage? I don't know much about Jeeps, so any help would be appreciated.
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May 30, 2010 20:10
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Those older ones are probably more reliable than the new ones. My brother has a 07 (I think) V8 (not the hemi) and just burned up a valve on the fucker. Interesting note: Lifetime powertrain warranty? Does not cover combustion-related items.
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May 31, 2010 05:17
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Mechanically it will be fine as long as it was maintained halfway decent. It's the electrics that could possibly give you issues, but if you're willing to deal with it no biggie. Also look into Airlift springs to level things out or the rear end will be dragging big time towing a car. I have a pair off a 99 Cherokee if you're interested, pretty sure they'd work on a Grand, same truck basically.
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May 31, 2010 14:44
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Any Northern Ohio goons selling a Wrangler or know someone selling a Wrangler that can hook a fellow goon up? Automatic and soft top preferably.
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Jun 2, 2010 03:22
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POsted this in the Stupid Q's thread, but didn't get any replies. ~~~~ Okay, here's my stupid question (s). Help me narrow down the culprit. My 99 Grand Cherokee is having hard starting. It takes longer to turn over. It usually starts pretty regularly in the morning, albeit after a few seconds of cranking. When it's warm (like when I run into the store) it sometimes cranks and cranks and cranks and won't catch unless I turn the ignition off and try again. Sometimes if I tap the gas it'll start right up. Sometimes it won't help. Now, I know this can be either spark or fuel. If it's fuel, it could be my fuel rail depressurizing. My jeep's fuel filter is also a pressure regulator, so that's one possibility. I wouldn't imagine a quick stop would be more problematic than sitting, if this were true though. Plus if I open the schrader valve, I get pressure release, although not much fuel. Not sure if that's normal when the car's off, but there is at least some pressure. So that implies that it's more likely to be spark. I have no idea how old the plug are - I need to look at them, but the car runs absolutely fine once started. If the plugs were bad, wouldn't it run rough while running? I suppose it could be the coils, but again, wouldn't it run rough if they were bad? Next up, the starter. I've never had a starter go bad where it would still crank the engine, but I suppose it could be possible too. But it doesn't always have a problem, so can a bad starter be intermittent? Any other possibilities I'm missing?
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Jun 3, 2010 15:13
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Doctor Zero posted:
My mother's 03 Grand with the 4.7 HO powertech v8 had a similar problem for years. Hot starts were a problem. In winter it would fire up easily, summer time it could crank and crank and crank and finally wind up enough to catch on a cylinder or two and run under it's own power. The tailpipe would puff black smoke during these starts. Running a little rich, eh? Yeah. It was under warranty and it took two different dealers to come to the conclusion that a few of the injectors were borked and basically pissing fuel instead of atomizing. They replaced so much poo poo before that it was ridiculous.
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Jun 3, 2010 15:30
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It could be any of those things that you mentioned, but there was also a TSB for the 4.0 that pertained to heat soak causing hard hot starts. Specifically, the 4.0 seems to have problems with residual heat from the exhaust manifold causing leftover fuel in the rail to vaporize when the engine is shut down while hot. This can affect the operation of the injectors and result in hard starts and misfiring afterwards. The TSB is just a heat shield to place between the fuel rail/injectors and the intake manifold. If your engine is filthy, it might be a good idea to degrease it, as this may contribute to the problem. May not be your problem, but it's worth a try. Here's the TSB: http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wj_1803103.pdf
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Jun 3, 2010 15:40
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Looking at replacing my '93 VW Passat GLX moneypit daily driver. I've always liked jeeps, but never owned one. Found a jeep near me on craigslist: http://newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/1734959684.html It's only a 4 cylinder.  I'm going to have my mechanic inspect it before I throw down any cash, but I wanted some jeep aficionados to weigh in and tell me their thoughts and if it's worth the money. Seems like this guy showed it some love.  craigslist ad posted:Asking $5500 or best offer
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Jun 3, 2010 18:30
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Btter test drive a few and think long and hard about it before getting a Wrangler as a DD. Because of the short wheelbase and solid axles it's a totally different driving experience and ride quality than any car, and you might not like it at all. For that price you should be able to find a 98 /w 4.0, but if you live somewhere flat and don't tow anything you might be happy with the 2.5.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:45
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My roommate had an early 90s Wrangler when we were in college. I drove it quite a bit and didn't mind it. This area is far from flat. I don't intend to tow anything. But I am use to doing 80+ on the highway and the general sportiness of the v6 Passat. Obviously those days would be behind me.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:59
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I am debating on ordering a new 2011 wrangler from a military service ( I am currently deployed). I will get a decent discount on it but i have no idea what it will even look like. I heard about the new engine but i have also heard there will be some minor changes in the body style. Im thinking pretty hard on playing it safe and getting the 2010 or going for the gusto and blindly buying the 2011. Any thoughts?
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Jun 3, 2010 19:21
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Okay all my friends are also telling me I will regret the 4 cylinder. As my friend put it, "it can barely get out of its own way." Back on the hunt for a 6! This one is ugly as sin: http://newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/1772148918.html quote:5 speed manual, 123,000 miles. Blue w/ Diamond Plate Kit, Bikini Top & Hard Top. All new 31" tires. New Battery. $2,800 or BEST offer. Must sell!!! Negotiable  Any reason to avoid a '92? DOMDOM fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jun 3, 2010 |
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Jun 3, 2010 20:01
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Sorry dude that YJ is gorgeous, and one of the best year groups to buy a YJ. You get the updated "family friendly" roll bar and 4.0 HO /w EFI (that is, if it's not another 2.5l). If you drove a '90 then you already know what the leaf springs ride like. I love my TJ but there are a lot of times I'd rather have a YJ for ease of suspension mods and the simplistic, no BS interior. edit: oh yeah you live in the NE.. Check for rust everywhere, especially at body mounts and in the tub seams, especially where the main tub underside and fender flares meet, just behind the front wheel wells.
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Jun 3, 2010 20:08
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incredibull posted:It could be any of those things that you mentioned, but there was also a TSB for the 4.0 that pertained to heat soak causing hard hot starts. Specifically, the 4.0 seems to have problems with residual heat from the exhaust manifold causing leftover fuel in the rail to vaporize when the engine is shut down while hot. This can affect the operation of the injectors and result in hard starts and misfiring afterwards. The TSB is just a heat shield to place between the fuel rail/injectors and the intake manifold. God damnit, I've had this issue for years. What are they chances they'll fix it for me now? It's not a big deal and it's never actually misfired on me, but it runs rough for like 30 seconds if you start it hot.
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Jun 4, 2010 00:00
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dMastri posted:Okay all my friends are also telling me I will regret the 4 cylinder. As my friend put it, "it can barely get out of its own way." If you are interested in a '00 XJ (4.0, 100k miles) let me know, my parents live near new haven and I have no problem bringing it down from Mass. I've got a buddy who is interested but currently deployed. I'll hopefully get an answer from him soon but if he doesn't want it, I'm thinking $3500.
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Jun 4, 2010 00:04
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