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eddiewalker posted:This works pretty well in a lot of difficult situations: I bought that when I did an oil change on my Prizm, it worked a lot better than the strap type.
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May 17, 2010 17:47
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This weekend I: Put an aftermarket CD player in 1998 Ford ZX2 Replaced downstream oxygen sensor in 1998 Ford ZX2 Replaced front sway bar links on 1995 Acura Integra Installed aftermarket CD player in 1995 Acura Integra Gave 1995 Integra basic interior/exterior cleaning, lots of work left to go Put 2000 Jeep Wrangler wheels on 1999 Jeep Cherokee (used existing tires) Removed foam tape residue from 1999 Jeep Cherokee Cleaned glass with Stoner's Invisible Glass on Cherokee and Integra, then applied Rain-X Did not work at all on putting rear spindles with newly pressed-in wheel bearings back onto 1995 Lexus SC400 sitting in the middle of the garage on jack stands.
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May 17, 2010 22:52
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I drove it to a place to get the air con recharged. Because it was £1 cheaper than buying the gas myself. Still a rip-off either way, but it actually works now. Before it was only 1-2 degrees below ambient and I'm facing a lot of driving this coming week in the best weather we've had this year. So it was necessary. And it worked nicely.
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May 18, 2010 18:23
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CmdrSmirnoff posted:Lexi nooooo Do you have a GS300/400/430? What year? I wasn't sure how common the problem was, but my wife's GS is now 7 years and 70k miles old, so I'm thinking of taking care of the ball joints preemptively.
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May 19, 2010 00:49
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- Had some new front tyres put on it - Had it run out of fuel just as I pulled into the work car park What I'll be doing to my ride tomorrow then, beyond finding some petrol to put in it to get me home, will be figuring out why the fuel gauge is having a hard time telling the difference between "empty" and "nearly half a tank".
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May 19, 2010 00:57
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MomJeans420 posted:Do you have a GS300/400/430? What year? I wasn't sure how common the problem was, but my wife's GS is now 7 years and 70k miles old, so I'm thinking of taking care of the ball joints preemptively. put the front of the car on jackstands securely. vigorously attempt to shake the wheels in a couple different directions, and do the same with both ends of the tie rods. If there is any play or even minor clunking, just replace all ball joints and tie rods at the same time with OEM parts. I've seen what happened to his car happen to 3 other cars in the past month, all different makes and models (none of them infiniti).
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May 19, 2010 07:10
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Today in my 02 Civics quickly shortening life: -Destroyed its transmission (fifth gear exploded, followed by the tranny seizing up and the gearshift refusing to move from the neutral position) -Dented the quarter panel by the gas tank when I leaned on it too hard while waiting for the tow truck. gently caress.
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May 19, 2010 07:41
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ab0z posted:put the front of the car on jackstands securely. vigorously attempt to shake the wheels in a couple different directions, and do the same with both ends of the tie rods. If there is any play or even minor clunking, just replace all ball joints and tie rods at the same time with OEM parts. It's actually a known problem for Lexus GS models, but I wasn't sure if it got better later in the years or not. Going to have to check it out Thursday. *edit* Changed engine oil and different oil, then replaced the grill in my front fascia, which had fallen out then got run over (my car came with an after market front fascia). Never again shall I replace the grill - getting the clips on that hold it in place took hours, I'm just going to pay someone to do it if it ever falls off. My neck is all jacked up from pushing with all my might at awkward angles too. MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 18:08 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 18:06
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MomJeans420 posted:Do you have a GS300/400/430? What year? I wasn't sure how common the problem was, but my wife's GS is now 7 years and 70k miles old, so I'm thinking of taking care of the ball joints preemptively. It's a '98 400 with 118k miles on the clock. There was some clunking after winter so I was going to check it out at my next oil change, which was like two weeks away. I'm not sure when the previous owners changed them, but I *think* the last change was at about 90k. Besides being a known trouble spot in the GS, the roads in my area have been abysmal and the joint literally got rattled off on a particularly bad stretch of road. I felt my alignment go to hell and steering wheel loosen up when rumbling over a stripped section of road; I mumbled "uh oh" and turned the music off, then the very first right turn the car crashes to the ground. Good news! New lower joints installed on both sides, oil change done a bit early, and there was no serious damage to the body. The loose piece of trim just needed some gentle hammering/shaping and screwed right back in to where it went before. The alignment is pretty bad though, so I'll need to get that done in the near future, and the ABS/VSC sensor got punked ($200 for a new one gently caress me). When it's in the shop for that, I'm considering swapping in some Daizen parts (full bushing + swaybar set), since I'd like to tighten up the car a bit and take it to a track day here, but money's a bit tight...
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May 19, 2010 19:13
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Sarthek posted:- Had some new front tyres put on it
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May 19, 2010 20:20
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Great Beer posted:Today in my 02 Civics quickly shortening life: How fast were you going when 5th seized the gearbox? I'm assuming you had at least one wheel locked at that point.
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May 19, 2010 21:01
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Ziploc posted:How fast were you going when 5th seized the gearbox? I'm assuming you had at least one wheel locked at that point. About 2 miles an hour in reverse so there was no real danger. According to the owner of the shop that worked on it last week fifth gear was improperly installed after being replaced. It must have been damaged while I was driving during the day and just given out when I started the car back up to go home.
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May 19, 2010 23:16
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Autocrossed my car this weekend, finally took first in my class after 3 seasons of rehabilitating the car.
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May 20, 2010 02:49
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Bounced around some land waiting to sell for construction, some nice large dirt hills. Wife got sick but shes been feeling crappy. Itching to try mudding the ram but 1 got no where to mud and 2 no one to pull me out of said mud if I get stuck.
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May 20, 2010 03:15
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I put the rear spindles with new wheel bearings on my 1995 Lexus SC400. Back on the ground!  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image.
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May 20, 2010 03:41
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CmdrSmirnoff posted:Good news! New lower joints installed on both sides, oil change done a bit early, and there was no serious damage to the body. The loose piece of trim just needed some gentle hammering/shaping and screwed right back in to where it went before. That's great! It always looks so bad when they fail, especially since the wheel ends up pointing perpendicular to the direction the car is going.
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May 21, 2010 06:29
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Sarthek posted:- Discovered that it wasn't, in fact, out of fuel and that something else is causing the fuel starvation. Cock. - Inhaled quite a lot of carb cleaner.
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May 21, 2010 10:57
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I drove it today for the first time in about a month! For proof here it is in my work parking lot:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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May 21, 2010 15:41
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It barely even counts as my ride, but I put a timing belt in the 1998 Ford ZX2 I bought the other day with "bent valves". I knew it was a non-interference motor, so I bought it and put a timing belt in it. It fired up on the first try tonight.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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May 22, 2010 03:13
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My resonator pipe snapped off the cat last Sunday. I've never done any repairs myself on my car but I take apart more complicated poo poo at work (hvac) so decided to tackle this one myself. Walker Resonator assembly $110.99 Walker Quiet flow3 welded assembly $154.99 Walker exhaust gasket $10.99 Walker spring bolt kit $7.39 Walker exhaust gasket $6.59 ------------------------------------- Total $290.95 20% off online coupon -58.19 tax $16.29 Total $249.05 w/ free instore pickup Theres also a $40 mail in rebate from walker, and I'm getting a $50 off $100 coupon since I spent over $100. Not too bad for a complete cat back exhaust. Thanks advance auto parts! Only other thing I had to buy was a $10 bolt kit since walker didnt have a part # for the 3 bolts that connect the resonator to the cat. Bolted it all together, reused the old hangers that were in good shape and its quieter than it has been in years! Hardest part was getting the old bolts off the broken flange, but my grinder make quick work of that. I also ordered a Haynes manual from half.com to tackle future repairs. I'm thinking of bringing it to Honda for an oil change just to see what else they try to upsell me so I know what other things I need to replace. Its a 96 accord with 154k on it. ps. If anyone needs the 20% off advance auto coupon its PS20 just enter it on the bottom of the shopping cart page.
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May 22, 2010 18:06
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Opened up my cabin air filter to clean it and ended up removing a wad of fabric and foam the size of my two fists. It's a wonder I was getting any flow out of the vents at all.
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May 22, 2010 20:22
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My door handle part finally showed up!    Hit a few snags installing it - I got literally the first one the forum guy made, so there were a couple small bugs to work out. Worked around those, and the handle is now installed and working perfectly. My door opens again. Onto the next task.    Doing a drain and fill of the transmission, and installing an upgraded valve body while I'm at it. The factory VB came with check balls made of a material that degrades. Over time, the check balls wear down until they're small enough to pass into places they shouldn't go, which causes weird shifting patterns, delayed reverse, and accelerates transmission wear due to abnormally high pressure in certain areas. There is a VB upgrade available that fixes all of this. Mine was starting to act up, so out it comes. Will probably send this off to be rebuilt, as I'm not sure I want to attempt it myself. Yeah, this job sucks in your driveway. I now know what old ATF tastes like. Bad. Real bad.
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May 23, 2010 02:39
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You need to make a thread about how horrible it is to own an 8 series beamer. Every time you post this stuff it reminds me how much I want one. I need this notion nipped in the bud.
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May 23, 2010 03:25
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Rogz posted:You need to make a thread about how horrible it is to own an 8 series beamer.
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May 23, 2010 05:42
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Rogz posted:You need to make a thread about how horrible it is to own an 8 series beamer. ExecuDork posted:Seconding this, both parts. Your beemer is very cool, but you've shown us the detail downside. Still a tremendously awesome car, and it's on my list of "cars to own in my lifetime", but not until I have much more money and free time than I have now. It's really not bad, all things considered. If you take out routine maintenance, standard "old car" problems, and optional upgrades, there isn't all that much left that I've had to do as a result of known flaws with the car itself. The door handle is an example of one model-specific flaw, and the valve body issues are specific to the ZF 5HP30 trans. There are a couple other known issues that have parts / fixes available (from BMW or otherwise) to prevent them. There's the yellow coolant overflow tank that likes to break - pretty much all '90s BMWS had this, and there's an updated part available from BMW to fix it. MID computers are notorious for dropping pixels (another '90s BMW problem). When mine went bad, I sent it to a guy in Germany who repairs them some magic way so that they don't drop pixels ever again - that was roughly $200. The rear shock towers are at risk of tearing, due to metal that was too thin from the factory. A set of shock tower reinforcement plates - which are available online for $100 and install in 5 minutes - makes this a non-issue. I installed a set a couple years ago. Control arm bushings wear out relatively quickly due to the car's weight - cheap fix. My headliner fell down when the superior German adhesives failed, and I had it, along with all 4 pillars and the rear deck redone by a local interior shop. And then there's just dumb freak poo poo, like the time my seat computer reversed polarity somehow and all the controls were backwards.  $50 Ebay seat computer later, and all was well. A fitting for the traction control cable cracked and fell out of its mount, causing the trac control to hang up and prevent the car from accelerating. New fitting was pennies, and snapped right in.Just for the love of Christ, don't get one that's been neglected. Deferred maintenance on these (as with most European cars) adds up very quickly. Attempting to resurrect one of these is generally viewed as a bad idea, and will make you poor fast. I have no regrets with mine. It's generally been pretty good to me. v  v
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May 23, 2010 06:32
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I pulled the timing belt off my green ZX2 and put it back in using a new one piece lower timing gear. I also put in a new water pump and valve cover gasket. I ran it for ten minutes in the garage, and yet I wasn't even around the block before the car lost power and then died. The bolt holding the upper t-belt idler pulley backed itself out and the t-belt went slack. I bought the car disassembled and that bolt was the one that looked most appropriate for the t-belt idler. I guess I was wrong about that. gently caress!!! At least it is a non-interference motor.
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May 23, 2010 12:23
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This time, swap to the two pulley set-up instead of the three idler that came on early models. You delete the bottom idler, then get a bigger top idler. The tensioner and belt are the same.
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May 23, 2010 14:09
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I replaced the burnt out remote radio controls. The S2000 uses a weird power setup for the Mute button, and frequently when people install aftermarket head units, they wire it up wrong and cause the mute to be permanently on. The PO disconnected the entire harness to the radio controls to get around this, but I wanted to get the functionality back, since the stock head unit doesn't do variable volume by speed. The next best thing is an easier way to change the volume when the wind noise picks up. This is what the remote radio controls assembly looks like:  And there is where it goes on the dash:  The entire silver dash bezel moves at as a unit, and as you can see, it's blocked by the steering column and stalk controls. I tried a week back to get the bezel off without moving the steering column, defying the advice from the references online. This time, I went by the book. First thing was to disconnect the battery. Going under the dash, there are 2 sets of bolts. This is looking at the rear pair:  Note the black air-conditioning plastic manifold hanging off of the yoke. A closeup:  Prying off the black plastic brad gets the manifold unhooked and out of the way, to let you access the bolts. These bolts need to be loosened almost all the way off. If the camera is swung up more, looking straight under the dash, there's 2 more bolts:  These are revealed once you unscrew the lower steering column cover. These you unscrew once the lower bolts have been loosened -- the effect is that the steering column drops by a few inches as it settles back down onto the loosened yoke:  Now the dash bezel can much more easily be pulled out, given easy access to the radio controls from the rear. I plugged in the new one, buttoned everything back up, and bam, they were working again. Finally, while cleaning up, I found this under the seat:   Good going, PO.
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May 23, 2010 21:41
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It's not very AI, but I took my Jeep in to have them swap out the radiator that developed a hairline crack down near the lower radiator hose. It took me all drat day to do it the first time, and I didn't feel bad when it ended up taking the mechanic twice as long as he thought it would to do it. I recognized that look on his face - he was not very happy. They just charged me labor, and I definitely got more than the standard bill rate's worth of his time. Still, if the drat thing cracks again, I have a lifetime warranty. So worth it.
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May 23, 2010 22:20
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I haven't done poo poo to my car in a while now, but I did do this for somebody else: Before:  During:  (I hadn't adjusted the new light in this pic, leave me alone  )After:  The brights are actually usable now, hell yeah 
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May 23, 2010 23:08
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I got a bolt from a junkyard car and put the whole thing back together on the side of the street because my brother was too lazy to come help push. mwells: did you polish those or get new lights?
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May 24, 2010 00:44
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Finally got around to wet sanding the Centennial edition Taurus headlights I got off someone from a different forum. They were cheap, UV coating was completely done..figured a good way to practice. Started with 800, then moved to 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000. Followed up with Optimum Compound & Optimum Polish on my Porter Cable. Still need more practice, came out ~85-90%. Also my friend taught me more about car detailing...so I/we used the foam gun, cleaned the car, clayed, then used Meguiars 105 on a blue pad with the Flex. Followed up with Menzerna PowerGloss. Finished up using a Porter Cable on a red pad applying BlackFire LSP. The metallic really pops now, paint is smooth as a baby's rear end. Not bad shape for a 00 w/141k.
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May 24, 2010 02:29
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PBCrunch posted:I got a bolt from a junkyard car and put the whole thing back together on the side of the street because my brother was too lazy to come help push. New, it wasn't much more expensive than the polish kit. Plus, the driver side light had about 4-5 ounces of water in it, along with a decent sized crack. I figured it would be better to just get a new set
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May 24, 2010 04:18
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I just changed the serpentine belt on my Evo IX. It was the first time doing it on this car in particular and it took about 40 minutes since I was doing it solo and it was really cramped around the pulleys. This was the last segment of my 30000 mile maintenance routine. I changed the transmission, transfer case, and rear differential fluids last week before departing on vacation. The Amsoil 75W90 I put in the transmission certainly makes shifts feel smoother than stock. As for the other fluids, Mitsubishi only sells their gear oil by the gallon at something like $90 per. It was still much cheaper than the $400 my local dealership quoted me sans belt, though the service manual says it's required.
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May 25, 2010 00:57
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Flushed the tranny fluid in the 2K. Didn't have the full 170k on it, but it was time. Noticed the difference immediately.
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May 25, 2010 00:58
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audio upgrade
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May 25, 2010 01:21
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new diff fluid, woo!
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May 25, 2010 01:21
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In the last 24 hours I have been busy with the 260Z. -New brake fluid and bled -New tires all around -2 baths and 2 layers of wax -Cleaned the valve cover -Rehung the exhaust, which still hangs to low -Radiator flush -Plugs, wires, cap, and oil Next on the list is to fix the exhaust manifold leak and gets some fresh weather stripping on the doors and front window.
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May 25, 2010 06:00
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Was in the middle of replacing my clutch and trans and found a hole in the oil pan. It's between the bell housing and engine, not sure what happened but the engine has to come out b/c there's a cross member in the way.
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May 25, 2010 12:52
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Well it was actually yesterday, but I did this:     And actually, I didn't do it, the guy that rear-ended me did. Unless you consider my stopping at a red light my fault.
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May 25, 2010 18:02
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