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For NPT (national pipe taper = black iron pipe) the OD is roughly 3/8" larger than the nominal size. 1/2 pipe = 7/8" OD, 3/4 pipe = 1 1/4" OD. Roughly. It breaks down with pipe sizes over 3" pretty fast, tho.
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May 15, 2010 04:07
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| # ? May 11, 2024 23:33 |
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I have two sink problems that I could use help with. Kitchen sink first: the faucet is sliding freely around the granite countertop. You can see the gap between the faucet escutcheon (not sure what to call it) and the counter in the first picture. The next two pictures are from below the sink; hopefully you can see that the bronze piece isn't sitting on the black rubber part properly. Any recommendations for how to fix this? Is there adhesive putty I can just put on the counter so that I can avoid taking apart the under-counter assembly?  Click here for the full 1944x1296 image.  Click here for the full 1944x1296 image.  Click here for the full 1944x1296 image. Bathroom sink: it's leaking at the junction between the chrome pipes and the black pipe coming out of the wall. First two pictures are under the vanity, and the last picture is a view of the pipe between the wall and the side of the vanity. Suggestions?  Click here for the full 1944x1296 image.  Click here for the full 1944x1296 image.  Click here for the full 1944x1296 image.
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May 19, 2010 04:29
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edit: nm, this problem is bigger than my skill level. The floor joists are soaked, mold is growing, water is dripping, it looks bad but I can find no obvious leaks from below. The water is to the left of the sink, not under it as I would have guessed. Possibly the old under the counter water heater has water left in it and is still leaking, I just can't tell but I'm afraid we may have to pull the cabinets out to fix it.
wormil fucked around with this message at 20:04 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 18:09
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Papercut posted:I have two sink problems that I could use help with. problem one, don't use any adhesive on the granite counter top since it will permanently scar it with the adhesive. That would basically be ruining a nice granite counter top. Go under the counter top and tighten up the bolt on the bottom of the faucet. You may need to get a basin wrench to do so. #2 replace the whole trap and trap adapter. Go to lowes or home depot and get a 1 1/2 pvc trap . It should come with a threaded adapter to go to ABS. Stub a little piece off ABS into the cabinent then glue on the pvc trap adapter that has threads. And then assemble he trap and you're good to go.
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May 19, 2010 23:41
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I installed a new bathroom sink and the tailpiece of the pop up drain insists on leaking. It seems like water is slowly seeping down the tailpiece threads. I tried putting teflon tape on the threads and tried making a ring of plumbers putty between the gasket and the washer and locknut, but it still leaks (albeit very very slightly). This is a pop up drain with overflow holes if that helps assist any. Help would be MUCH appreciated
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May 21, 2010 03:49
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Christ. The plumbing in this house has been a mess since we moved in. First it was the dishwasher leaking and we fixed that. The the water heater leaked and we fixed that. The the drain pipe behind the wall, behind the sink, broke and has been leaking for about two months. From all these combined leaks in the same area, the floor is rotten, the joists are probably rotten, the wall studs are probably rotten. Dammit. We are tearing the kitchen out in a few weeks anyway but I have to put a temporary drain through the kitchen floor so that more sewer water doesn't poor out into the wall and under the floor. So I ripped out everything under the sink (the old pipes were a hacked together mess) and capped off the old black drain pipe. I have pipes coming from the double sink into a downspout with a Y for the dishwasher. That goes into a P trap that will then go into a short piece that will connect with a PVC drain pipe going down through the cabinet base, through the floor and into the crawl space. I will connect that to ABS under the house with a rubber connector thing and two hose clamps. The old guy in plumbing at Lowes told me I couldn't glue PVC to ABS and suggested the rubber thing (no hub band?) instead. The ABS will then tie back into a branch of the sewer line. It only has to last two months tops, I know it isn't "right" but are there any glaring flaws in this plan? I took pics but I can't find the usb cable for my camera.
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May 21, 2010 06:07
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Furncos (brand name for rubber fittings with pipe clamp bands & used ubiquitously for all similar fittings) are a code-approved and permanant way to connect pipes of different materials. They're not structural, though; you need to properly support the pipes. Shouldn't be any issues for you; should be fine for your sink for the short-term.
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May 21, 2010 13:17
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dwoloz posted:I installed a new bathroom sink and the tailpiece of the pop up drain insists on leaking. It seems like water is slowly seeping down the tailpiece threads. I tried putting teflon tape on the threads and tried making a ring of plumbers putty between the gasket and the washer and locknut, but it still leaks (albeit very very slightly). This is a pop up drain with overflow holes if that helps assist any. It could be a flaw in the porcelain or it could need to be tightened more. Can you take a picture of where exactly its leaking.
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May 21, 2010 18:00
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grover posted:Furncos (brand name for rubber fittings with pipe clamp bands & used ubiquitously for all similar fittings) are a code-approved and permanant way to connect pipes of different materials. They're not structural, though; you need to properly support the pipes. Shouldn't be any issues for you; should be fine for your sink for the short-term. Thanks. Got the new drain in and it's not half bad if I say so myself, certainly better than the Frankenstein mess that was under there before. Now that things dried up some overnight the damage doesn't look as bad as yesterday, I'll still need a new subfloor, probably have to sister a joist or two but it's the rotten sill that worries me the most. Hopefully my insurance will cover it.
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May 21, 2010 21:09
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I got the right size threaded brass barbed fitting, and attached my pex to the outlet side of my water meter. I have screwed it on tight, tighter, and then really loving tight, and it still drips very very slowly. I also put the same fitting on my inlet and outlet ports of my water heater, and they both do the same thing. The fittings didn't come with washers, but I used teflon tape. The old fittings didn't have washers either, but they didn't leak. They were essentially the same thing, except having copper sweated into them, instead of pex crimped onto them. None of the fitting are leaking at the pex connection, just the threads. What am I doing wrong?
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May 24, 2010 15:10
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mr.belowaverage posted:None of the fitting are leaking at the pex connection, just the threads. What am I doing wrong?
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May 24, 2010 21:56
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One place I lived, my landlord used plumbers' putty on the compression fittings under the sink. Guess what, they constantly dripped. Edit: question. I have a blocked sink drain in the bathroom. There are several 90-degree turns and I can't get the snake in there. It is this NPT stuff from 1940ish, going into a cast iron drain. If I take it apart, am I going to be able to get it back together leak-free? It's gonna end up with 3 threaded joints inside a wall so I kind of need to get it right. slap me silly fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 24, 2010 |
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May 24, 2010 22:06
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I wouldnt even try putting it back together. I'd just replace the P trap if i had to deal with it Because the likelihood that it will seal again is low. You may even crush it when trying to take it apart.
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May 24, 2010 22:42
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Sweet. How do I handle the new connection to the existing vertical cast iron drain, which is going to have a threaded hole in it if I take this apart? The drain is about a foot to the right of where the pipe will emerge from the wall. poo poo, I'll try to post a pic later.
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May 24, 2010 22:56
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grover posted:You're not supposed to use teflon tape on compression fittings, only NPT threads. There only is teflon on the threads. These are 3/4" pex to 3/4" NPT, and all the NPT sides are leaking. All the pex sides, done without teflon, are fine.
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May 25, 2010 12:01
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They could have wrapped the teflon wrong. If you wrap in backwards it will back out of the treads when tightened. If you can take it apart , re wrap the threads with teflon and put some dope on it.
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May 25, 2010 17:44
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:problem one, don't use any adhesive on the granite counter top since it will permanently scar it with the adhesive. That would basically be ruining a nice granite counter top. Go under the counter top and tighten up the bolt on the bottom of the faucet. You may need to get a basin wrench to do so. Thanks for the advice. The kitchen repair was really easy with a basin wrench, took 2 minutes. I'm having more trouble in the bathroom. I tried to follow the above and take out the chrome trap assembly, but I couldn't get the compression coupling at the wall off. Even completely loosened, it wouldn't budge, like it had been cemented in. The 1-1/2" PVC pieces I got wouldn't fit in the coupling; they seemed to be 1-1/2" inner diameter while the coupling seems to be for something 1-1/2" outer diameter. So I just reassembled the chrome trap, and manage to eliminate the leaks at all of the slip nuts. The problem now is that it's backing up and leaking out of the top of the pop-up sleeve that surrounds the 1-1/4 sink piece.  Click here for the full 1944x1296 image.
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May 27, 2010 18:24
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I shut my sink valves off for a day, when I turned them back and ran the tap, the water was black for a couple of seconds.  Seriously, what is happening there?
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May 27, 2010 18:42
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Papercut posted:Thanks for the advice. The kitchen repair was really easy with a basin wrench, took 2 minutes. Well you need to remove that trap and snake that drain. Since regardless of what jimmy rigged thing you do to fix it. It will only last so long and then you'll be back having to do it right. I'd cut back the cabinet so you can see what you have to work with. And wormill your water was black because of sediments in the pipe, or it could be that you have a rubber gasket that failed somewhere that turned the water black. I wouldnt worry about anything though unless you see a leak.
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May 28, 2010 03:36
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Speaking of leaks... I learned today that my dishwasher is also leaking. I have been noticing that it wasn't cleaning as well as it used to. Tomorrow I'll pull it and run it to find the leak. One thing after another.
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May 28, 2010 06:12
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Question: I'm planning a downstairs bathroom reno, and a couple of the pipes from the upstairs are coming down in inconvenient places. Specifically the upstairs shower although the toilet pipe is also not in the best position, given where I want the walls to go. Would it be financially feasible to move these while keeping the air vent stack in place? Or is it really better to keep it as is so it has a straight shot to vent?
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Jun 9, 2010 20:37
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priznat posted:Question: I'm planning a downstairs bathroom reno, and a couple of the pipes from the upstairs are coming down in inconvenient places. Specifically the upstairs shower although the toilet pipe is also not in the best position, given where I want the walls to go. Would it be financially feasible to move these while keeping the air vent stack in place? Or is it really better to keep it as is so it has a straight shot to vent? It all depends what size vent you have and how its laiedout. Pictures would help.
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Jun 10, 2010 00:04
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Whole house tankless water heaters Good idea, bad idea? (2ba 1500sq ft house) These are all over ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/TITAN-TANKLESS-...=item439905ddf5 and seem quite cheap. Is the quality up to par? Installing one for me would kill two birds with one stone: the increased energy efficiency and getting rid of my problem prone improperly vented 30ga tank heater
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Jun 17, 2010 07:21
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I spent a lot of time researching tankless water heaters. First of all don't go anywhere near electric; they're not nearly as energy efficient and generally aren't considered powerful enough. If you don't have gas I would avoid them, and consider something like a heat pump water heater instead. When looking at a tankless water heater you have to think in terms of temperature rise and GPM. Tankless heaters are specified in terms of how much water they can raise a certain number of degrees. You also need to consider minimum flow rate; most units won't activate if the flow is less than 0.5 GPM. Finally you have to be okay with occasional pulses of colder water. If you're taking a shower and someone turns on the faucet, the flow rate increases. It takes a second or to for the water heater to respond to that increase. The end result is that you'll get a pulse of colder water before the system adjusts itself. Personally I felt a heat pump water heater would be a better option for me. Although pricier ($1500 vs $1200), installation is easier and the heat pump heater is actually more energy efficient. Also there are some local rebates that put the prices in line with each other.
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Jun 17, 2010 08:00
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Hurray! My wall is gutted, the kitchen floor is gone and new joists and subfloor are going in. Next I get to redo the plumbing. The house was built in 1960, brick exterior and 2x4 construction, and I need to redo this: The first two pictures are the same but different angles. Picture three is the wall to the right of picture two. Seriously, who ever thought cutting away the studs like that was good idea?  You probably can't tell but the kitchen drain had 100% blockage but the bottom had rusted out so all the waste water was pouring out inside the wall (for a while). Yes I am embarrassed I didn't notice sooner but I never go into the back corner or the crawlspace.  Apparently the washing machine was once in the kitchen and they just walled over the supply lines and didn't even bother capping the drain.  I want to put in a new vent stack and new drain to the ABS main. I actually installed a temporary drain once I discovered the problem and that has worked perfectly, maybe I'll just leave it. I'll try to get a picture later so you guys can give me your opinion. But the drain line I installed does not connect directly to the vent, it goes to the main line which is 6 or 8 inches and the vent connects to that just a few inches away. Am I asking for trouble? I would also like to tear out the copper and replace it with PEX. The tubing is $25/100' which seems reasonable but once I buy tools and fittings I'm not sure it would be cost competitive with ABS. Any guidance? I suppose the copper is still fine but it will probably be a long time (hopefully) before it's all exposed like this again. Is there a rule of thumb for estimating PEX? Close up of the rotted pipe.  Close up of the cut wall studs (exterior wall) 
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Jun 28, 2010 20:34
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wormil posted:
Hope i didnt miss any questions. 1) Old plumbers use to hack walls up before building code became more important to mechanical code. Thats also why they use to say (i think they still say) "There is nothing dumber , then a mother loving plumber" 2) I would have to see the drain line to get a better idea. It sounds like it should be fine, as long as you put a long as you graded it correctly and it vents properly. 3) Unless the copper has issues i wouldn't cut it out. If you do cut any copper water pipe out and the inside of the pipe isn't smooth then you have problems of pitting. But that usually doesn't happen unless you have really hard water.
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Jun 29, 2010 02:23
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wormil posted:I would also like to tear out the copper and replace it with PEX. The tubing is $25/100' which seems reasonable but once I buy tools and fittings I'm not sure it would be cost competitive with ABS. Any guidance? I suppose the copper is still fine but it will probably be a long time (hopefully) before it's all exposed like this again. Is there a rule of thumb for estimating PEX? The hand crimpers need a lot of room to work, so plan ahead when you set up your pipe.
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Jun 29, 2010 03:21
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:2) I would have to see the drain line to get a better idea. It sounds like it should be fine, as long as you put a long as you graded it correctly and it vents properly. It's probably not graded correctly. Look at picture one, the white pipe sticking up through the floor is my install, it goes straight down a few inches then 45s into the main line. Total run is maybe 5 feet. The vent ties in to the main nearby. Tomorrow we'll have it open again and I'll snap a pic. The other question is about venting. The galvanized vent pipe is rotted and I broke it yesterday trying to remove the old washing machine drain, so the vent will have to be replaced. If I leave the (meant to be temporary) drain I installed then I have no problem but if I run the drain into the wall like is typical, I would have to chop up the studs. Or I could run the drain in front of the wall, behind the cabinets to avoid cutting studs. Rd Rash 1000cc posted:3) Unless the copper has issues i wouldn't cut it out. If you do cut any copper water pipe out and the inside of the pipe isn't smooth then you have problems of pitting. But that usually doesn't happen unless you have really hard water. Well this surprised me. I started Googling around and got a variety of answers to the lifespan of copper pipe, anywhere from 30-100 years. This pipe is 51 years old but if I don't need to replace it, I won't make more work for myself. One last question, my gut instinct is to cut and cap the old washing machine supply lines (pic 3). I'm just afraid that leaving unused spigots inside the wall is asking for trouble though it has been fine for decades. On the other hand, my old hose bib is leaking and is actually below deck level... I could cap the old hose bib and install a new hose bib to the washing supply line but I doubt that a hose bib will fit inside a 4" wall.
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Jun 29, 2010 03:28
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wormil posted:
1) Get a proper sized drill bit and drill the studs. Make sure each foot you grade the pipe a 1/4 inch. 1 1/2 inch abs takes a 2 1/4 inch bit, I believe PVC sch 40 pipe is similar in diameter. 2) Frost free hose bibs come in 6", 8" ,10", etc. So obviously it wont fit in a wall. You could mount a boiler drain and just make sure you have a shut off inside for it and a way to drain it. Though what climate do you live in. If it doesnt get below freezing you dont need a frost free hose bib.
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Jun 29, 2010 06:03
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 Found this picture while looking up washer hookups. Looks well done so I'm sure they knew what they were doing, but I'm not sure what the "double vent" thing is. Could someone enlighten me as to the purpose?
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Jun 29, 2010 08:33
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dwoloz posted:
Each individual fixture is suppose to be vented individually. The laundry sink on the left is using the vertical part of the vent.
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Jun 29, 2010 22:53
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Ah I see So it's installed that way to properly vent when both the sink and washer and draining at the same time? And why the height? Couldn't the washer vent just attach right above the sink stub?
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Jun 30, 2010 02:37
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dwoloz posted:Ah I see UPC (uniform plumbing code)* states that you need to 6 inches above the flood level rim of a fixture to run the vent horizontal. Or the vent will still be considered a drain. If you have to run the vent low you can use a long turn 90 and it will be fine. *I am not sure what the Internation Plumbing code states
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Jun 30, 2010 03:00
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Thank you for the education Planning to do an overhaul in the laundry room with new plumbing and a diverter valve for greywater to the garden
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Jun 30, 2010 20:25
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I don't know to much about gray water systems, other then you need separate vents for the gray water fixtures.Whats the diverter valve for?
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Jun 30, 2010 22:37
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I installed a new frost free hose bib, capped off the two old washing machine supply lines and put in a new vent pipe. I was kind of looking forward to sweating the pipe but ended up using Sharkbite connectors just to get it over with. I'm not entirely sure that it wouldn't have been easier to sweat the pipe. Once I cut the old copper pipe and sanded it clean it looked like new so I guess that stuff does last a long time, I just left the old stuff in place. Thanks to everyone for their help. One last question. The hose bib goes through a brick wall. The old one was mortared in place (that was a bitch to get out) but I'm not sure how to affix the new one. I'm tempted to just fill up the hole with spray foam insulation, that should hold it pretty snug and keep critters and moisture out but it doesn't hold the outside snug up against the brick.
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Jul 1, 2010 04:23
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Spray foam will be fine to plug the hole but you should secure the hosebib from the outside or inside. Either using lead anchors or anything you find that will work.
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Jul 1, 2010 22:46
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Spray foam will be fine to plug the hole but you should secure the hosebib from the outside or inside. Either using lead anchors or anything you find that will work. Before he left this morning, my carpenter showed me exactly how to anchor it. Once I do that and install a new vent flashing doohickey tomorrow, hopefully my kitchen plumbing will be over. (except for hooking up the sinks). Speaking of which (I always have another question), are you guys fans of just gluing up ABS or using those install kits with the compression fittings. It seems those things slip off sometimes.
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Jul 2, 2010 05:36
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wormil posted:Before he left this morning, my carpenter showed me exactly how to anchor it. Once I do that and install a new vent flashing doohickey tomorrow, hopefully my kitchen plumbing will be over. (except for hooking up the sinks). Solvent welding ABS is so easy to do and lasts forever, I'd definitely choose that over compression. Just make sure the parts all fit together before you start 
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Jul 2, 2010 05:55
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| # ? May 11, 2024 23:33 |
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You want at least 1 or 2 compression joints in that drain assembly under the sink. Reason behind it, is if you ever need to work on it you will be cutting it out and buying new parts. My current boss now does full ABS p traps. With a union built into the abs p trap. Then he puts a trap adapter of 1 1/2 inch ABS to 1 1/4 compression fitting. The only thing i don't like about ABS p traps is, you have to put plumbers putty in the union to get it to seal properly. If you install a PVC compression p trap. Make sure you tighten the nuts. I usually go as tight as i can with my hands. Then give them a 1/3rd turn with my channel locks.Doing this I have only broke on ever. And i believe that was because a factory defect.
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Jul 2, 2010 16:55
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