|
Z3n posted:Organics are just "normal" pads...the metallic are designed for aggressive use. The organics will probably last longer and have slightly less initial bite and grab. Not a big deal Oh crap I bought metallic pads for the GS500 rear brakes, no wonder the rear locks up real easy now
|
# ? May 22, 2010 06:47 |
|
|
# ? May 27, 2024 04:02 |
|
Lubed the chain. I need to buy a rear stand soon. The push/pull routine in neutral is hard to take after having a bike with a centerstand. CSi-NA-EJ7 were you traveling on 95 North around 2pm this afternoon? I saw a guy with a red helmet riding a red Duc that looked like yours.
|
# ? May 23, 2010 02:35 |
|
I actually rode my bike today, first time in two weeks! However, I think the CCT is bad. I hear a tick tick tick, pause, tick tick tick at idle. Obviously I can't hear anything at any speed, but it is coming from the front cylinder. After some research apparently the front CCT's have had a recall from Suzuki. I would probably say that mine has not been replaced. Will a shop warranty something like that on a bike with 26k? Edit : Yup, CCT is bad. What do you all think about the full manual CCTs from APE? mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 04:24 on May 23, 2010 |
# ? May 23, 2010 04:01 |
|
Shops will definitely take care of recall work if it hasn't been done. APE manual tensioners are quality pieces of kit
|
# ? May 23, 2010 05:43 |
|
kylej posted:CSi-NA-EJ7 were you traveling on 95 North around 2pm this afternoon? I saw a guy with a red helmet riding a red Duc that looked like yours. Nope my poor SS is getting dusty
|
# ? May 23, 2010 08:42 |
|
Z3n posted:Shops will definitely take care of recall work if it hasn't been done. Eh, I take that back, looks like that was just for euro SV. I checked and there are only two recalls for the 00, motion pro brake lever and oil issue. Going to check and see if the oil plate has been installed though, that could be major. But after 26k it either doesn't need it or probably has been done.
|
# ? May 23, 2010 13:04 |
|
Replaced the stock front side reflectors with LED "running lights" and wired them in tandem with the stock turn signals. Not a bad visibility upgrade for $16.
|
# ? May 23, 2010 21:02 |
|
Gave the mixture screws a final tweak, then replaced the plugs, plug caps and two of the plug wires on the '82 Seca. The other two wires are OEM and permanently attached to the coil, plus those cylinders weren't having issues with missing. I've been hitting the headers with an IR temperature gun and #2 was a bit cooler than the others, plus it seemed to be missing at idle after getting warmed up. That's all gone now. I've owned the bike for 11 years and this is the best it's ever run. Starting from San Jose, I took a test ride down Almaden to McKee Road, which goes by Calero Reservoir, then Uvas Reservoir, then finally ends at Watsonville Road. It was a glorious ride, probably one of the most satisfying I've ever taken. I love working on bikes, even if I suck at it sometimes. Next up: - change final drive oil - replace fork seals - replace tires - replace headlight assembly - recover seat
|
# ? May 23, 2010 21:27 |
|
I tested the tensioner today for the front cylinder by turning the screw that compresses the spring which puts tension on the rod and then letting it snap back into place. This did take care of the tick tick tick'ing but it is still present at times when rev'ing and coming down to idle. Is the manual CCT the way to go, or the automagic?
|
# ? May 24, 2010 03:28 |
|
mAlfunkti0n posted:I tested the tensioner today for the front cylinder by turning the screw that compresses the spring which puts tension on the rod and then letting it snap back into place. This did take care of the tick tick tick'ing but it is still present at times when rev'ing and coming down to idle. No reason not to go with the MCCT. Most of them are pretty much set and forget
|
# ? May 24, 2010 17:08 |
|
AnnoyBot posted:Starting from San Jose, I took a test ride down Almaden to McKee Road, which goes by Calero Reservoir, then Uvas Reservoir, then finally ends at Watsonville Road. It was a glorious ride, probably one of the most satisfying I've ever taken. I used to ride Lean to Curie to Colleen to Santa Theresa to Coleman to Almaden to McKean to (Bailey OR Oak Glen OR Watsonville) to Santa Theresa/Hale/Monterrey Road back to Lean Avenue, then back home on Rohn Way every weekend. Of course, at the time, it was 1980, I was on my 10-speed, and I was 12. My how times have changed - I can't imagine a parent that wouldn't have an absolute poo if their 12 year old made a habit of that today.
|
# ? May 24, 2010 20:30 |
|
Ordered a screw and an oil filter for the VFR and a couple oil filters and crush washers for the DRZ. Friday I need to run to the bike shop and see what they can do for tires on the VFR. Their tire prices are right in line with the online places if you get them put on there, also.
|
# ? May 25, 2010 01:05 |
|
Got the TLR200 running, I was reading the plug backwards making it worse. Went from idling like poo poo and bogging with any gas applied to idling great and only a slight bog on quick throttle inputs. drat that little bike is something though. I think 1st gear might hit 5mph and the turning radius...I feel like I'm turning super sharp then realize I have a lot more steering angle. Thing reminds me of a tractor, just lugs around with lots of torque at idle. Did a few little power wheelies in the back yard, man body input is huge on how much it lofts. First few were just throttle and I could ride it for a foot or so maybe 6-10 inches off the ground max. Then I pulled back on the bars and almost looped it. drat though there isn't poo poo for airflow at 5mph, 80 degrees and humid kind of sucks.
|
# ? May 25, 2010 01:19 |
|
Need the advice of those a bit more knowledgable than me. Click on the link below and listen to this guys SV, mine is making the same noise. I know the CCT is going out, and I am ordering the APE MCCT tomorrow. My question, how "grenade ready" is this? If I continue riding am I running a large risk of the chain jumping and throwing timing off and getting piston to valve contact? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBb__oK4OcU
|
# ? May 25, 2010 01:57 |
|
Endless Mike posted:Ordered a screw and an oil filter for the VFR and a couple oil filters and crush washers for the DRZ. Friday I need to run to the bike shop and see what they can do for tires on the VFR. Their tire prices are right in line with the online places if you get them put on there, also. What kind of tire you thinking about? When it comes time for mine to get some new rubber, I'll most likely get a dual compound one, like Pilot 2ct
|
# ? May 25, 2010 02:19 |
|
Replaced the sparkplugs and temporarily fixed a slightly worn through plug wire on my Firebolt. Hopefully that will solve the issue I've had with it stumbling and idling funny when it gets hot. Having the proper tools and a veteran mechanic for a father definitely made that go much faster.
|
# ? May 25, 2010 02:51 |
|
CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:What kind of tire you thinking about? When it comes time for mine to get some new rubber, I'll most likely get a dual compound one, like Pilot 2ct
|
# ? May 25, 2010 12:16 |
|
I replaced the clutch cable and the adjusters in the clutch lever assembly. The old clutch cable was so hard to pull in that after two hours of riding or so my grip strength would start to go. The new cable is such a lighter pull. So nice.
|
# ? May 25, 2010 13:47 |
|
I took a walk with my wife down to the stable where I store el-biko, and dropped off the brake cleaner necessary to fix my poo-poo. Since I need to wait another 5-10 days for the US postal service to navigate my order north, to the frozen wasteland we call a country, I sat on the bike to remember the good times. I then shed a single man-tear, as my wife mocked me.
|
# ? May 26, 2010 04:27 |
|
Today I adjusted my one-of-a-kind rearsets (long story) on the Aprilia. Turns out that to adjust them required a completely different set of screws as how I had the shop put them on didn't allow them to be adjusted. A quick trip to Home Depot later my bike is a lot more comfortable.
|
# ? May 26, 2010 04:42 |
|
I finally washed all the dead bugs off the ST. There were so many, I came out of work today to find ants crawling up the front wheel to the front of the bike for a bug buffet.
|
# ? May 26, 2010 06:07 |
|
Replaced the cheap LG plug in the kikker with an NGK one, and I'm pretty sure it's running way hotter now. The pipe wrap was starting to smoke, which it hasn't done since the initial break-in. I guess I need to make it a bit richer? Also ordered a mikuni carb and pod air filter for it. Not much change with the M900, except NGK plugs instead of champion to try to sort out the popping and coughing.
|
# ? May 26, 2010 06:47 |
|
Slim Pickens posted:Replaced the cheap LG plug in the kikker with an NGK one, and I'm pretty sure it's running way hotter now. The pipe wrap was starting to smoke, which it hasn't done since the initial break-in. I guess I need to make it a bit richer? Also ordered a mikuni carb and pod air filter for it. Well, if you don't mind pulling the plug again, you can figure out what the mixture is like by visual examination of the electrode and insulator. If it's running too lean, the insulator will be bone white instead of a nice golden-brown color. For my own bike, today I tried valiantly to find some kind of manual cam chain tensioner that would actually fit it on the internet, with no success. Would it be crazy to try and have one custom-fabricated? They don't look like all that complicated of a part, I imagine it wouldn't be prohibitive to whip one up given some time in autocad and access to a CNC machine.
|
# ? May 26, 2010 07:23 |
|
sectoidman posted:Well, if you don't mind pulling the plug again, you can figure out what the mixture is like by visual examination of the electrode and insulator. If it's running too lean, the insulator will be bone white instead of a nice golden-brown color. I know, it was raining today, so I haven't put enough time on the new plug to even get any color on it. Just went up and down the street to try the foot-shift I installed for my girlfriend to use.
|
# ? May 26, 2010 10:18 |
|
Yesterday afternoon I swapped bikes with a friend of mine for a week. My DRZ400SM for his ZX6R. His rear sets are as far up and back as possible which makes it a little uncomfortable for commuting and around town but drat get on a windy road and that bike is great. Good power, good suspension, good brakes, good everything. I still can't see riding one on the street vs my SV650 but drat if I don't want one for a track bike now. He jumped his first curb last night and is having fun with the DRZ but said he misses the power of the ZX6R.
|
# ? May 26, 2010 13:12 |
|
I recently sold my SV650 and bought an 84 CB700sc. It's been treating me pretty well, so I've been lazy about doing all the "new old bike transition" stuff. Over the last couple of days I figured out why the headlight wasn't working (blown fuse), bled and flushed the clutch, changed the oil (engine and final drive), and put a new oil filter on. Still on the to-do list: bleed/flush brakes, clean air filter, take apart the front end to see if I need new springs, sync the carbs (I may take it to a mechanic for this one, as I'm pretty new to all this), and put new spark plugs in. Working on my own stuff is fun!
|
# ? May 28, 2010 01:54 |
|
This is going to look spectacular.
|
# ? May 28, 2010 06:49 |
|
|
# ? May 28, 2010 06:55 |
|
Made a little progress on the horizontal plate/light bracket. I just need to find someone to drill the bigass axle and light holes. Can home depot/lowe's/ace do that for me? edit: also taking suggestions for what design I should mask and let rust into the back when I paint it Slim Pickens fucked around with this message at 08:52 on May 28, 2010 |
# ? May 28, 2010 08:45 |
|
Spiffness posted:
Why was the hub not done in split black/orange as well? Or would that just look silly?
|
# ? May 28, 2010 17:28 |
|
Sharp_angus posted:Why was the hub not done in split black/orange as well? Or would that just look silly? Not a lot of opportunity to see the hub when it's actually on the bike, but honestly I'm not sure thats much of an aesthetic advantage having it two tone as well. These wheels make me weak at the knees. Plus they are tubeless and I'll have a 2nd set of wheels for the track.
|
# ? May 28, 2010 17:57 |
|
Spiffness posted:Not a lot of opportunity to see the hub when it's actually on the bike, but honestly I'm not sure thats much of an aesthetic advantage having it two tone as well. These wheels make me weak at the knees. Plus they are tubeless and I'll have a 2nd set of wheels for the track. Oh don't get me wrong, they're still pure awesome I was just wondering, and yeah it makes sense you don't really see the hub that much.
|
# ? May 28, 2010 21:05 |
|
Rejetted my carb to a 45 slow and 170 high. Bike runs a bit better and should get better mileage. I could probably even go to a 42 on the low end but I'll check my plugs after awhile and see how they look this way. Also replaced the idle adjustment screw with an "EZ screw" that you can adjust with your fingers. Makes adjustment a hell of a lot easier. Replaced the choke cable on said carb. Whoever thought it was a good idea to have a metal nut on a piece of threaded plastic to mount the choke should be shot. If you tighten it even a little bit too tight, it cracks the plastic and your choke doesn't work.
|
# ? May 28, 2010 23:23 |
|
I recently posted about a GS500 which has fallen into my hands somewhat. Well, we pulled it out of the garage and it started right up when we hooked the battery up to it. This made me somewhat lazy, and we decided not to drain the fuel as was otherwise recommended by people here, and I'm sure it'll bite me in the rear end sometime down the road but then I get to practice cleaning carbs I guess. We did however change the oil, oil filter and spark plugs and it seems to run pretty awesome at the moment. I don't have my license yet, unfortunately On a scale to 1-10, how crucial is changing the air filter at this point in time?
|
# ? May 28, 2010 23:33 |
|
I have a question: my drain bolt has a slow and persistent leak. The PO clearly tried to solve this problem by applying a shitload of silicone to the area on the plug. It looks like frosting on there. Is there a better method for solving this leak? I'd love to scrape all the silicone off and apply something to the bolt or the threading if I could. It's ugly and messy.
|
# ? May 29, 2010 02:49 |
|
^^^Replace the washer. Copper or aluminum washers compress and deform to fill in irregularities and prevent leakage. Once compressed, they lose malleability. They're intended to be replaced any time the drain plug is removed.
|
# ? May 29, 2010 03:52 |
|
If that doesn't fix it, you could have had someone with a heavy wrench hand who just torqued the bolt too much and put a hairline crack in the drain hole. A buddy of mine did that on a KX250 years ago. Pretty much no easy sure fire fix if it is that.
|
# ? May 29, 2010 04:09 |
|
Ahaha, thanks, Bucephalus. I just realized that when I took the plug out I thought, "Huh, no washer. I'll have to deal with that.", and then completely loving forgot about it. Another trip to the hardware store is in my future (and another cycle of oil through the drain and back into the engine again).
|
# ? May 29, 2010 05:22 |
|
benwards posted:(and another cycle of oil through the drain and back into the engine again). Ah, just hang it upside down so the oil stays in!
|
# ? May 29, 2010 06:34 |
|
|
# ? May 27, 2024 04:02 |
|
Nothin' like suspending ~500 pounds of metal from rickety garage beams!!!
|
# ? May 29, 2010 08:05 |