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I've got first refusal on a stupid cheap low mileage 2.4 V70 AWD, problem is it's Auto. Just how expensive/complicated are the AWD's & can I expect anywhere near 30mpg on a long run?
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May 22, 2010 22:13
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I read a bunch on kjet and some other sites but I guess I wasn't specific enough in this thread, how does a 1989 240DL 4 cyl wagon that needs a drivers side strut sound? They're asking 500 and I have no idea about it because I haven't seen it, its a daily driver and its drivable right now, they'll probably take it over to me this weekend. I have a mechanic friend who loves volvos to show me the ropes if it sounds like a good deal.
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May 22, 2010 22:40
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LloydDobler posted:Brake position switch. This is not the brake light switch under the dash, it's a switch in the brake booster in the engine bay. It could also be the park/neutral switch or if you're in europe and it's a manual, the clutch switch. Thanks, I'll check that out. If not well that's what the swede shop is for!
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May 22, 2010 23:57
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Not an Anthem posted:I read a bunch on kjet and some other sites but I guess I wasn't specific enough in this thread, how does a 1989 240DL 4 cyl wagon that needs a drivers side strut sound? They're asking 500 and I have no idea about it because I haven't seen it, its a daily driver and its drivable right now, they'll probably take it over to me this weekend. I have a mechanic friend who loves volvos to show me the ropes if it sounds like a good deal. Should be decent. It's an LH 2.4 car that was made after they fixed the wiring harness issues that plagued the earlier (pre-88) models, so there shouldn't be too much trouble from a wiring standpoint. It'll probably need more than just a front strut, but assuming all the electrical stuff is OK, any mechanical fixes should be pretty easy, especially if you're friendly with an experienced mechanic. e: Also got 27MPG out of the 245 on my latest trip home from school, which is better than our 850 usually manages on the same circuit. Not bad. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 07:43 on May 23, 2010 |
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May 23, 2010 00:09
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Cakefool posted:I've got first refusal on a stupid cheap low mileage 2.4 V70 AWD, problem is it's Auto. Just how expensive/complicated are the AWD's & can I expect anywhere near 30mpg on a long run? Yes, all the 5 cyl Volvos pull high 20s/low 30s on the freeway as far as I know. The AWD varies by year, you really should tell what year you're talking about. Although I'm sure you know that and just forgot.
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May 23, 2010 19:20
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LloydDobler posted:Yes, all the 5 cyl Volvos pull high 20s/low 30s on the freeway as far as I know. My 98 V70XC AWD is atrocious on gas. I get about 700kms out of a tank when i take it on the highway which is just OK for a 70L tank, but in the city I am lucky to get 450km.
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May 23, 2010 21:12
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I've been using the EPA site to track fuel costs and they have this handy chart showing my gas usage since January: (most driving is stop/go with occasional highway trips)
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May 23, 2010 21:39
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mikerock posted:My 98 V70XC AWD is atrocious on gas. I get about 700kms out of a tank when i take it on the highway which is just OK for a 70L tank, but in the city I am lucky to get 450km. Weird, I wonder if that's the difference between AWD and FWD. I average about the same as you on both my 5cyl cars on city driving. And I keep my foot in it a lot.
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May 24, 2010 00:03
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LloydDobler posted:Weird, I wonder if that's the difference between AWD and FWD. I average about the same as you on both my 5cyl cars on city driving. And I keep my foot in it a lot. My fwd 855 once got 32mpg to a tank (my record in that car) but that was when it was working properly.... speaking of which.... So I replaced my o2 sensor and everything was fine and dandy for about 3 weeks. Yesterday I hit a massive puddle/ flooded section of road and shortly after I get a check engine light. I plugged in my OBD II scanner and it says o2 bank one sensor one no circuit continuity or something along the lines of that. I haven't checked it out yet, but I'm willing to bet its something I've hosed up. Any guesses before I get under there tomorrow with a multimeter and check it out?
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May 24, 2010 16:21
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Splizwarf posted:netwerk23: workin' on it, same problem as for TheJeffers only sub "grey" for "beige or red". So much grey.
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May 24, 2010 16:38
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Re-reading your post I realized you might also be asking for the actual carpeting that covers the whole floor of the car and not just the individual floor mats I've been looking for, can you clarify?
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LloydDobler posted:Yes, all the 5 cyl Volvos pull high 20s/low 30s on the freeway as far as I know. No, I'm a moron. It's an R reg, so a 97. I've got the owner to hold on for a day or 2, just until I know how big a bill the french poo poo is going to hit me for (aircon  )All the AWD bits work, tread depths match, tyres are all good, even wear, no smoke, interior's good, there's a Dire Straits CD stuck in the multichanger. I think this is a plus point. Also, beautiful smoky grey colour.
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May 24, 2010 17:24
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The earlier AWD was just a bit of a dog, not particularly unreliable, as long as tires were rotated to keep them all the same size. Although when the driveshaft goes out, you will need to get it rebuilt or replace the whole thing, which is nice and expensive. Many people just pull the shaft and the AWD fuse and just run the car FWD to save the money. On that car it won't throw codes or anything as far as I know. And yeah the dark gray is gorgeous, it was my first choice for color on my convertible.
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May 24, 2010 21:38
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So it's the driveshaft, not the transfer that goes? Bizarre. What's so expensive about it?
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May 24, 2010 21:56
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Guys! I finally bought my '94 850 Turbo! I love it, it's full-featured and it runs like a dream! Pics coming soon ****placeholder****
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May 25, 2010 01:02
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Can I ask a "If you had $____ to spend on a used Volvo, what would you buy?" My sis is passing on her '85 Volvo to me but I think it's about time for an upgrade.
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May 25, 2010 02:18
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kinkster posted:Can I ask a "If you had $____ to spend on a used Volvo, what would you buy?" Are you asking if we had unlimited money what used Volvo we would buy, or what upgrades for the 85 240 we would do. A.) 04 V70R (or if you suck S60R) B.) Praise Jesus! Slam it and +T!!
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May 25, 2010 02:29
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Sviatoslav posted:Are you asking if we had unlimited money what used Volvo we would buy, or what upgrades for the 85 240 we would do. 850R you idiot, V70R is clearly inferior also Volvo goons is a V70 tailgate interchangeable with an 850 tailgate? Help!
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May 25, 2010 03:12
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Cakefool posted:So it's the driveshaft, not the transfer that goes? Bizarre. What's so expensive about it? They won't sell pieces of it, only the whole thing. $1100 list from Volvo, $800 if you're lucky online, or around $450 to rebuild it IF the driveshaft center can get the parts. There's a place here that is able to get some years and rebuild them. as halfway crooks posted:850R you idiot, V70R is clearly inferior 1) Lies. 2) I believe yes up to 2000. I know the taillights are interchangeable.
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May 25, 2010 03:18
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No I meant like is it permissible to ask buying advice in that form? I know it's generally frowned upon unless you've narrowed it down allot. Lets see I'll give it a shot.. I'm trying to decide weather to go with one of the late 90's sedans or the newer versions (starting with the S80 in 1999, and then the S60 in 2000 I think?). Looking to put down $5000 roundabout.
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May 25, 2010 05:05
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kinkster posted:No I meant like is it permissible to ask buying advice in that form? I know it's generally frowned upon unless you've narrowed it down allot. Lets see I'll give it a shot.. I'm trying to decide weather to go with one of the late 90's sedans or the newer versions (starting with the S80 in 1999, and then the S60 in 2000 I think?). Looking to put down $5000 roundabout. Early s80s and s60s have problems. 00-02 S60s had transmission software problems that will lead them to a early death.
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May 25, 2010 05:12
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I'm guessing the S40s are no different?
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May 25, 2010 05:34
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kinkster posted:I'm guessing the S40s are no different? Get an 855. They grow on trees, dead reliable, and well within your price range. You won't regret it.
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May 25, 2010 08:10
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I know someone who has fallen for the s40 recently and intends to purchase one used for under $10,000. Tell me what she's getting into, what to look out for, and if any years were Plague Years.
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May 25, 2010 09:20
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Get the free '85 240 (because it's actually RWD and RWD is better), put some HD Bilstein struts and shocks on it, some 16" or 15" wheels that are actually lighter than the stock steelies along with some lower profile tires with a stiffer sidewall, find a junkyard IPD rear anti-sway bar, and then take your bulletproof car along with the remaining $4000 and go buy a lot of drugs and beer. Or use that money to turbo.
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May 25, 2010 19:09
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Ether Frenzy posted:Get the free '85 240 (because it's actually RWD and RWD is better), put some HD Bilstein struts and shocks on it, some 16" or 15" wheels that are actually lighter than the stock steelies along with some lower profile tires with a stiffer sidewall, find a junkyard IPD rear anti-sway bar, and then take your bulletproof car along with the remaining $4000 and go buy a lot of drugs and beer. Hell, Drugs AND Turbo! +T's are cheap with enough JB weld and zip ties.
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May 25, 2010 21:35
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LloydDobler posted:They won't sell pieces of it, only the whole thing. $1100 list from Volvo, $800 if you're lucky online, or around $450 to rebuild it IF the driveshaft center can get the parts. There's a place here that is able to get some years and rebuild them. I'm amazed you can't get a replacement built by someone else, a driveshaft is a tube & some joints, unless Volvo own the only machine capable of making their magical end fittings. Anyway, I borrowed it for a day & got 12mpg, also, I don't get on with autos, so I had to bid it farewell.
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May 25, 2010 22:10
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Hey, so I'm taking in my 850 to a dealer tomorrow to get a recall closed, its for the fuel tank heat shield. I was wondering how long a repair like that usually takes?
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May 26, 2010 00:31
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Sigh, I took my 95 855t in today because the AC was randomly shutting off. It sounds like it's a relay or something electrical, because when I can get the compressor on it stays on and works well. The lovely thing is that on my way home I got a decent amount of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. It practically choked me when I was at a light. Oil and coolant levels look ok and I didn't see anything funny when I checked the oil. I let it sit for 15 minutes or so and took it around the block. No smoke until I parked it and let it idle for a minute or two and even then it was very faint. Ideas? Am I doomed? Some very quick research is leading me to believe it's a turbo gasket or seal. I've got 200k on this thing and I love it to death. Good thing I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow for the AC anyway. I was planning on getting a lower mileage 850 this summer anyway, I was just hoping to have more time to locate a good one. pete0r fucked around with this message at 01:15 on May 26, 2010 |
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May 26, 2010 01:12
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I'm trying to replace the brake lines after one broke (hardline into the caliper) and everything is frozen solid and I'm twisting lines left and right, how in the poo poo does one remove frozen brake lines? Also my headlights won't work with the exception of my brights that don't stay on, and I'm already in $50 for the dip relay which didn't solve the issue. Somebody help, I want to love my 240 but it's being such a PITA I almost want to turn japanese.
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May 26, 2010 22:22
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rubbersoul posted:I'm trying to replace the brake lines after one broke (hardline into the caliper) and everything is frozen solid and I'm twisting lines left and right, how in the poo poo does one remove frozen brake lines? ch1mp fucked around with this message at 03:50 on May 27, 2010 |
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May 27, 2010 03:38
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Quick question: What is the goon approved oil formulation/weight/brand for the 240 B230F red blocks (1989)?
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May 27, 2010 03:44
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ch1mp posted:On my 240 brake job I rounded the nuts and had to cut the foot-longish section of hard line with tin snips at each end and use a socket to remove the nuts. I would also suggest that you consider replacing the entire caliper as you will need to bleed the brakes after the repair. I had reinstalled the entire assembly and then snapped of both the bleed screws trying to back them out. I don't know how much heat you can put on the zerx due to the rubber piston seals in the caliper. I think the calipers are only like $20-30 new. I'm doing this and seeing the light at the end of the proportioning valve.
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May 27, 2010 03:51
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ch1mp posted:On my 240 brake job I rounded the nuts and had to cut the foot-longish section of hard line with tin snips at each end and use a socket to remove the nuts. I would also suggest that you consider replacing the entire caliper as you will need to bleed the brakes after the repair. I had reinstalled the entire assembly and then snapped of both the bleed screws trying to back them out. I don't know how much heat you can put on the zerx due to the rubber piston seals in the caliper. I think the calipers are only like $20-30 new. I was replacing the soft flexible lines, and learned a fun fact- those copper nuts that are siezed on the hardline-> flex line connection need a proper flare wrench and tons of heat to get off without ruining everything. I ended up having to cut the soft rubber lines, heat the poo poo out of the fittings with a MAPP torch (fun fact #2, the soft rubber expands until it forms a seal and then violently explodes IN YOUR FACE) and wrench em off with expensive snap-on flare wrenches I borrowed from my friend. Now I'm rebuilding all the calipers before I put them back on with ceramic pads and new stainless steel flex lines. The brakes are already the jumbo version. I'm going to have a very nice pedal when I'm through (I hope). As far as B230FT oil goes, I personally use Mobil 1 10w 40, and have had nothing but good experiences. I'm running a huge turbo, an oil cooler, a remote filter, and an oil temp sensor, and temps are nice and low and the oil always comes out golden. Never sent it away to be analyzed tho. Edit: You can just rebuild the calipers (kit full of rubber seals is less than 20 bucks), push the piston out while it's hanging off the line by depressing the pedal a tiny bit, then once you take everything apart you can heat the caliper to it's heart's content to get the frozen bleed screws out. Money Walrus fucked around with this message at 04:06 on May 27, 2010 |
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May 27, 2010 04:03
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ch1mp posted:Quick question: What is the goon approved oil formulation/weight/brand for the 240 B230F red blocks (1989)? I've always run Castrol GTX dino oil at 10w40 and it's never ever let me down.
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May 27, 2010 04:05
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Money Walrus posted:As far as B230FT oil goes, I personally use 10w 40, and have had nothing but good experiences.
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May 27, 2010 04:07
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ch1mp posted:I was also wondering synthetic vs dino (extra cost is not a huge issue). I edited my above post, but I run synthetic simply because my car is a turbo car, and a little old (133k on a 1992 740), and I don't want dino oil coking up my hot turbo. Because my car is a performance volvo, I like to use the good stuff, but if your's is a N/A, I'd say 10w 30 dino, and if it's a turbo I'd run synthetic (possibly a higher weight if your car is old and you aren't in a cold area).
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May 27, 2010 04:24
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ch1mp posted:Quick question: What is the goon approved oil formulation/weight/brand for the 240 B230F red blocks (1989)? Goon answer - Whale oil. And not just any whale oil, 5w30 whale oil collected from a baby humpback on the crest of the full moon. Real answer - you have an NA 240? poo poo practically anything SAE appropriate would work...however a decent 10w30 from any brand is fine. If you're really concerned about wear or it's a turbo go with synthetic but really it shouldn't be much of an issue. Just make sure you use a good filter (mann).
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May 27, 2010 05:34
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I use 15w40 because I'm a cheapass. $10 a gallon? Yes, please! In the last few thousand miles after switching to it, it's completely stopped my car from eating oil. Either that, or something where my dipstick lies is clogged with gunk from using tractor oil since it's read full for over a month now despite me driving it harder and harder every day. 
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May 27, 2010 09:29
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Mobil 1 10W30 here, 1992 B230FT with 213,000 miles or something like.
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May 27, 2010 12:54
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Valvoline's semi-synthetic 20w50 I believe and I've got a B230FT with 140k miles.
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May 27, 2010 14:10
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