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Bad Munki posted:I was hoping to just have a 1/8" rounded-over strip between a couple pieces of wood, just as a highlight, so u-channel won't work for that unfortunately. I did some googling around, and I found brass inlay strips, bu it looks like they're all for going in flush, which isn't quite what I wanted. I guess my other option would just be to use wood inlay, which would be neat looking as well, I'm sure. Whichever way you go, you are still going to have to figure out how to round over the edges. I can't remember if you said if you had a router table, but if you do, you could get a 1/16" roundover bit and do it that way. I'm not positive, but I don't think that carbide bits have any qualms about cutting brass. For cutting the channels, I posted a simple jig earlier in the thread that will make dead accurate cuts if you are routing them by hand. Or you could use a router table, table saw, radical harm saw, or a grapefruit spoon. It's just another option. When using this jig with a router, it is important to not pivot the router because the center of the bit may not be an equal distance to every point along the edge of the base. Better off to just make a square base. Don't you wish you could just designate the area to be channeled out?  On the subject of square bases, there was a neat idea I read in some book or magazine, but haven't built yet. The gist of it was that, depending on which straight bit you used, each corresponding edge would be a set distance from the center of the bit. Like, one edge would be exactly 4 1/8" from the center, so if you used a 1/4" bit, the edge would be exactly 4" from the edge of the bit. Another edge would be 4 1/4" from the center of the bit which would put it exactly 4" away from the edge when you chucked up a 1/2" bit. The other two edges could be cut to match up to 1/8, 3/8, 3/4, or whatever bits you use to cut dados and channels for inlays. If you built the base accurately enough, you could use a guide like I linked above and get dead on dados for four different bits by using one base and one jig. Bad Munki posted:The avatar is an airlock used during fermentation by homebrewers; there's a thread so check it out if you want to join in the fun. I am a cheap redneck that singlehandedly kept Anheuser Busch in business during the recession by my consumption of Busch Light. You can keep your hoity toity science projects far away from my piss water. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 16:14 on May 18, 2010 |
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May 18, 2010 15:54
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Alright, I need some help. I put two coats of Minwax stain and a coat of poly on my red oak bed. I ended up with runs and spots all over my stain job, so I'm stripping it right now. I know we hate Minwax, but I think that there will still be some stain on it after I'm done sanding. The wife wants the stain superdark, and I had a hard time getting the Minwax to go that dark. Is there some type of magical stain that I should be using? Is there a way to keep minwax from getting gummy and as it's drying? edit: just read that I should be using 100 grit instead of 200 to help the stain penetrate. iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 15:52 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 15:49
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iwannabebobdylan posted:Is there some type of magical stain that I should be using? It's called aniline dye and it's super easy. Mix it with alcohol in a spray bottle and spritz it on. Done. Want it darker? Spritz some more on. The only downside is that it doesn't mask the grain so if you are trying to downplay the wood then stick with stain. Rub it on, wait, rub it off. But I've found that if you want something really dark, it's difficult with stain alone unless you basically just paint it on. Are you using a pore filler on the oak?
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May 19, 2010 17:59
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Thanks for the tips. I've never heard of pore filler. All I've used is conditioner, oil based stain, and poly. I'm ok with masking the grain some, I figured that if we get dark enough it will all blend anyways. I only have a Sherwin Williams, Lowes, and Walmart in this town. Do I need to order this dye, or will any of them have it? And after I dye it, do I seal it with poly?
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May 19, 2010 18:11
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I doubt you can get it from Lowes or Home Depot but maybe, never been to Sherwin Williams but I do know that most paint stores carry a lot more chemicals than just paint. You can order it from various woodworking websites if not available locally. I think mine are 2 oz bottles but that is probably equivalent to 2 quarts of stain. If you get it on your clothes it will never come out. The dye is just that and will not seal the wood so you'll probably want a finish over the top. For a bed, you probably don't need anything as durable and unforgiving as poly... I would use lacquer or shellac. Lowes does sell brushable lacquer. Pore filler will make the surface of the oak very smooth and if you use a different color than your stain it can really make the grain stand out. Pore filler can be purchased at Lowes/HD. You can also mix dye into it to change the color.
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May 19, 2010 18:31
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I picked up a Veritas Card Scraper and Variable Burnisher today. Will give you guys a trip report on cleaning up my Quarter Sawn White Oak cutting board later today!
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May 19, 2010 18:36
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MarshallX posted:I picked up a Veritas Card Scraper and Variable Burnisher today. Love my Veritas Scraper, sold my Veritas Variable Burnisher. It only takes a few tries to be able to burnish properly with a hand burnisher in my experience. The scraper holder is a huge thumb-strain-saver though, just used mine an hour ago to do some final touchups to a panel. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 20:00 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 19:56
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iwannabebobdylan posted:I put two coats of Minwax stain and a coat of poly on my red oak bed. Stain and poly  edit: I know that wasn't a very useful or helpful reply. Listen to Wormil, he knows his stuff. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 20:03 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 20:00
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SkunkDuster posted:Stain and poly I spent about 4 hours stripping the footboard and posts. Still have the siderails and headboard. I now hate stain and poly. Thanks for the link, wormil. I need to replace my collection of Minwax tints and start woodworking like a man. In other news, I knocked out a Nelson Bench in a day. Got about halfway through the box joints on the second endpiece with the chop saw and remembered I owned a bandsaw. Oh well. .jpg) Click here for the full 600x800 image.
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May 19, 2010 23:06
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veritas card scraper holder or the weird lee valley tools veritas which is like a spoke shave scraper?
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May 20, 2010 22:18
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Not an Anthem posted:veritas card scraper holder or the weird lee valley tools veritas which is like a spoke shave scraper? I have the card scraper holder, which I think is an excellent bang for the buck. I also have the Small Scraping Plane which is also excellent as it allows you to work right up in a corner, and can be set to take an extremely small cut. Between these two I feel like my scraping needs are met, I would like to have the Full-Sized Scraping Plane but I don't feel like I 'need' it per-se. If I didn't do touch ups to plaques and other very-high-visibility items, I probably would just have the scraper holder.
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May 21, 2010 02:27
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LordOfThePants posted:I've used Defy's epoxy fortified deck stain on a couple decks and I've been pretty happy with it. It's semi-transparent so it will be a little longer-lasting than something like Thompsons, but I still end up refinishing every other year. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll definitely look into it. The deck was actually built near the end of last summer (September-ish). So it's had about 8-9 months of weathering already (including snow), should I still wait before staining it?
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May 21, 2010 13:44
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I can understand the scraper planes, but why buy a scraper holder? If your scraper hurts your thumbs, buy a thinner gauge scraper, this is why they come in different thickness's. If its burning you, run a strip or two of masking tape across where you hold it, stops it singing you, and helps you see which edge you were last scraping from.
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May 21, 2010 16:46
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anaemic posted:I can understand the scraper planes, but why buy a scraper holder? While these are valid workarounds, there is still the simple ergonomic issue of a scraper holder being an item that can be made to fit the hand better than a thin piece of steel. It has a volume that can be contoured while the scraper itself is just a 3/32" thick or less plane with sharp corners. Then of course there is the issue of your fine muscle control decreasing as you increase the amount of force you are exerting. Bending even a thinner scraper is going to put your hand muscles under some strain which will lessen how well you can control a fine tool used to take off extremely small amounts of wood in order to prep it for finishing. Maybe I'm just weak, but I certainly won't be going back to using scrapers without a holder.
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May 21, 2010 17:03
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ScreaminKing posted:Thanks for the recommendation. I'll definitely look into it. You should be fine to start finishing it, especially since you said it's cedar, right? Pressure treated decking takes the longest to dry out.
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May 21, 2010 23:02
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GEMorris posted:I have the card scraper holder, which I think is an excellent bang for the buck. After doing a week or two of scraping on various projects I can easily see the benefit of one of those card scraper holders, I've gotten a scraper burning hot very quickly and my thumbs pass out after a while. Scrapers are a magical tool I've only recently had the pleasure of finding, that thing's on my list (the holder) for sure. Rockler is having a 15% off online sale through this sunday fyi.. I'm dying to find bowl gouges for lathe turning but their sorby gouges are so goddamn expensive. Its to the point where I want to price out HSS rod and have a machinist friend mill the top and just make handles. Actually thats not a bad idea.. Anyways goto rockler.com and use the code "V0758" for 15% off. If anyone has or knows of cheap used bowl gouges, spindle gouges, scrapers, or any lathe tools let me know please
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May 22, 2010 20:54
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You have gained experience! +2 Woodworking Skill I'm sure I'm not the first one to think of this, but I figured out how to avoid planing across end grain when I mess up a cross cut...  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Yeah... totally didn't think to take a pic prior to the cut, so I MS Painted some bleached wood in there. Oh and YEAH, I DID cut 45 degree edges on one side of my bench, rather than that curved poo poo I've seen on some others. What of it!? Yeah mine doesn't look as pretty but guess what? I can cut a 45 degree angle without a freakin protractor!!! :P I was bored, and slightly drunk, and kinda pissed, so I said to hell with it and went into my shop/garage and planed the hell out of my saw bench. I know, it's just a saw bench, but drat... every piece of really thin veneer I cut on that thing will be square damnit! This is what I feel is considered pretty damned flat... (After seeing the thumbnail in 1024x768, yeah, you need to open the link to see what I mean.)  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. ^Done with a block plane. So now I'm screwed until my next paycheck because I have nothing else to do besides play video games and be That Guy on those online dating sites. Way to go, Boogabu, way to freaking go. 
Boogabu fucked around with this message at 01:54 on May 24, 2010 |
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May 23, 2010 07:56
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Any recommendations on a combo drill/drive/countersink doodad? I've gone through several of the Dewalts and they are junk. The bits snap left and right, the countersinks dull quickly and the entire thing will bend slightly out of shape making them wobble like crazy. I realize some or all of the problem probably lies with me being a bit heavy handed but these things should be a little durable than what I'm getting out of them. They look exactly like this except Dewalt branded. (I couldn't find a picture of one online)  I noticed last time I was at Lowes that Dewalt had redesigned them slightly but I'd like to try another brand. The one thing I do like about the Dewalts is you don't need a separate hex key to change bits. Home Depot has this Ryobi but it has the separate hex key, still it would be worth it if I could go through an entire project without replacing the drill bit every half dozen holes. 
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May 24, 2010 05:17
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So I've read through the thread and am trying to get started on this whole woodworking thing. The guy who I'm renting a room from right now actually has woodworking tools (table saw, miter saw, various hand power tools) and doesn't mind me using them. I only had a power drill and a couple of random bits and a Dremel. So I've started purchasing various doodads to get started on projects. But I ran into a problem. Problem: No where to work in the garage. Solution: Build a workbench! http://www.finewoodworking.com/getting-started/ Season 2: Build a workbench - I watched and emulated their plans. I spent the weekend doing this: Made some changes to the dimensions, and ended up using particle board instead of MDF (just cause there was some around). Some Pictures of the table I built:  Click here for the full 618x736 image.  Click here for the full 934x490 image. There are flaws with it but it's sturdy and flat. Good enough to get me going hopefully
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May 24, 2010 06:31
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Boogabu posted:You have gained experience! Very cool. I know the feeling about having nothing to do. My shop, tools and garden are hundreds of miles away. Languishing! Brought the plasma and vidja games though. Can't seem to get into them like I used to. wormil posted:Any recommendations on a combo drill/drive/countersink doodad? If you truly want quality look into W. L. Fuller countersinks. I've burned up, snapped off and dulled many, many of the Kobalts and Dewalts so I know what you're talking about. I'll be getting a full set of Fuller countersinks and plug cutters this summer. cbubbles posted:So I've read through the thread and am trying to get started on this whole woodworking thing. Very nice, you're on your way. The base on that is much better than the one I first cobbled together for my first workbench.
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May 24, 2010 15:27
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ChaoticSeven posted:If you truly want quality look into W. L. Fuller countersinks. I've burned up, snapped off and dulled many, many of the Kobalts and Dewalts so I know what you're talking about. I'll be getting a full set of Fuller countersinks and plug cutters this summer. They look like nice countersinks and have a built-in collar. Too bad they aren't quick change. They are almost twice the price of the Dewalts but if they wear out less frequently it would be worth it.
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May 24, 2010 17:45
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wormil posted:They look like nice countersinks and have a built-in collar. Too bad they aren't quick change. They are almost twice the price of the Dewalts but if they wear out less frequently it would be worth it. Woodworking Magazine did a pretty good article on Countersinks about a year back. One feature they said worked really well was tapered drill bits. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32309&cat=1,180,42240 I'm going to get a set of those once I have the funds.
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May 24, 2010 23:32
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Somehow I've gone all this time without ever having cut a piece of MDF. What fun! That stuff is nifty. Nice sharp corners, makes for great blocks and such. On that note: how well does MDF glue, surface-to-surface? Oh, also: is there any sort of special primer I have to use on it, or will your everyday normal primer do just fine?
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May 25, 2010 02:48
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GEMorris posted:Woodworking Magazine did a pretty good article on Countersinks about a year back. One feature they said worked really well was tapered drill bits. I bought a set of these today. $25, ugh. I've given up on the drill/drive/countersink combo jobs and will just use a magnetic bit holder from now on.  The downside to tapered bits is who the hell uses wood screws anymore? I've been using these babies (Grip-rite composite deck screws, self tapping, square drive) on my cabinet project and they are sweet. No predrilling is necessary but I still countersink the holes (when necessary). The only downside is that the free bits that come in the box are garbage.  Speaking of cabinet projects, I made a goof yesterday and I'm not sure how to fix it. We assembled a cabinet, realized we made a mistake, took it apart, put it back together and in our haste glued and screwed one of the shelves so it is sticking out about 1/4". It was face down and by the time we realized, it was too late to fix it. I dread trying to handplane 3/4" birch plywood and I can't think of a way to get a saw on it, except maybe a reciprocating saw but that wouldn't leave a nice edge. If I had a power hand plane, that might work but of course I don't have one. Any ideas?
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May 25, 2010 04:50
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wormil posted:Speaking of cabinet projects, I made a goof yesterday and I'm not sure how to fix it. We assembled a cabinet, realized we made a mistake, took it apart, put it back together and in our haste glued and screwed one of the shelves so it is sticking out about 1/4". It was face down and by the time we realized, it was too late to fix it. I dread trying to handplane 3/4" birch plywood and I can't think of a way to get a saw on it, except maybe a reciprocating saw but that wouldn't leave a nice edge. If I had a power hand plane, that might work but of course I don't have one. Any ideas? Can you get it close enough with a belt sander and 80 grit, then plane it?
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May 25, 2010 17:05
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wormil posted:Speaking of cabinet projects, I made a goof yesterday and I'm not sure how to fix it. We assembled a cabinet, realized we made a mistake, took it apart, put it back together and in our haste glued and screwed one of the shelves so it is sticking out about 1/4". It was face down and by the time we realized, it was too late to fix it. I dread trying to handplane 3/4" birch plywood and I can't think of a way to get a saw on it, except maybe a reciprocating saw but that wouldn't leave a nice edge. If I had a power hand plane, that might work but of course I don't have one. Any ideas? I say plane it. It might be a lot of work, but I would guess that it would be faster than any other method that would involve fiddly jigging etc.
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May 25, 2010 17:42
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My solution is to buy a 48" Wide belt sander. Put 60 grit on the front drum, 100 on the back drum. A couple dozen passes and you've got a fixed cabinet and wide belt sander. Perfect.
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May 25, 2010 18:39
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wormil posted:The downside to tapered bits is who the hell uses wood screws anymore? I've been using these babies (Grip-rite composite deck screws, self tapping, square drive) on my cabinet project and they are sweet. No predrilling is necessary but I still countersink the holes (when necessary). The only downside is that the free bits that come in the box are garbage. I do I bought the huge boxes many years ago and still have a ton left. I am also cheap and just change out standard drill bits to make counter sink holes 
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May 26, 2010 01:22
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^I thought that was how you were supposed to make counter-sinks? That and the counter-sink bits were just rip offs!?
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May 26, 2010 01:42
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Boogabu posted:^I thought that was how you were supposed to make counter-sinks? That and the counter-sink bits were just rip offs!? The countersink bits usually have a depth stop which is nice.
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May 26, 2010 01:53
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JEEVES420 posted:I do  you people and your slotted screws
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May 26, 2010 07:17
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I just picked up a new lathe, never used one before. I familiarized myself with how to use it but now all I can think to make are stupid spindles and bowls, neither of which are of interest to me! Any ideas?
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May 27, 2010 19:26
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What do you guys use to store/organize wood dowels ? I finally got the green light from the GF (aka the finance department) to build myself a nice workbench and I'd like to incorporate a nice way to store and organize all the wood dowels she has to build bird toys.
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May 27, 2010 19:53
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MarshallX posted:I just picked up a new lathe, never used one before. Spindles, bowls, vases, mushrooms, birdhouses, pens, plates, flowers, pendants, yoyo's. Alex007 posted:What do you guys use to store/organize wood dowels ? Really, the best way is to get appropriate sizes of PVC and make a little vertical stand. Dowels slide into the PVC.
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May 27, 2010 21:51
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MarshallX posted:I just picked up a new lathe, never used one before. Here's a fun one I once did way back...You'll need a fairly thick block of wood, so you'll almost certainly have to laminate a bunch of boards. Doing so with interesting woods can also help to make the design more interesting. I saw one example of this project with some sort of green and orange 3D checkboard all lathed out, and it was insane. Anyhow: Lathe this profile out:  Then, flip it on it's face (the open side) and run it through a bandsaw along this line:  Then, glue the two pieces together face-to-face. Twist them about the axis in the middle so that the outer edges line up. Grab a rasp to grind away all the corners, and then a file, and then eventually sandpaper. The end result is a crazily organic U-shaped bowl with a handle in the middle, and people will forever question how you could possibly have made it. Maybe this particular design has a name, I don't know. That being the case, I don't know what I would possibly google to get a sample pic. I think I saw it in some woodworking magazine 15 or 20 years back. Of course, you can adjust the dimensions above as you see fit, and putting a different amount of curvature on the S-cut can make the shape more or less eccentric for different looks. I think the one I made was about 12" in diameter, so the plan above represents that. Whatever you do, keep the walls (and especially the center post) about 1" thick, maybe even a little more so, since you'll be doing a lot of filing to smooth out the corners and you'll want all the wood you can get at that point. Sorry for the lovely drafts above.
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May 27, 2010 22:33
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ChaoticSeven posted:Really, the best way is to get appropriate sizes of PVC and make a little vertical stand. Dowels slide into the PVC. That is PERFECT ! Thanks a lot for the idea, I really like it.
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May 28, 2010 12:57
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Look what found its way into my shop!   It's destination, a walnut mission style coffee table:  I'm trying to decide whether to cut the knots out or leave them, they are pretty huge but I wanted all the figure from the burl that these boards had. Unfortunately, the knots turned out bigger than I anticipated.
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Jun 1, 2010 13:43
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I haven't worked with wood for half a decade but I have a two pretty ambitious projects I'd like to finally tackle with some unusual materials I've had lying around for about a year now. I own a few stretches of flooring ripped from an abandoned bowling alley. To be specific, it is the actual alley flooring itself with lane markings and everything. Right now it is rather uselessly covering the floor of a basement storage room (elevated, of course) that I'd someday like to see as the basis of a bed in one of my guest rooms. This is a huge project that I'm not ready for, so I'll introduce my other, less ambitious project where I'll need the most immediate help I want to convert this small panel into a very short table, perhaps to later accompany the unique bed which I plan on being elevated only a foot high. The biggest challenge I can tell with modifying this wood (and, in fact, with moving the larger panels) is that it has been assembled with a very strong glue. However strong the glue is though, the sheer weight of the wood will cause the entire structure to collapse upon itself if not properly supported. This leads me to my first challenge  This rusted length of metal is all that keeps this panel together, aside from the glue which you can clearly see in it's own speleothem-like formations. The glue is HARD AS gently caress and I have no way of identifying it. I'd love to hear from anyone familiar with bowling alley construction just what this material is.  A closer shot of the connection between the support beam and the wood, along with the glue. I have a very basic idea of what I should do here but, being that I've never encountered this composition of wood and glue as a source material, along with the general rarity of the material itself, I really don't want to gently caress this up. What would you guys recommend to replace the support beam as a basis for the legs of the table? What about the problem of the excess glue removal? The surface is in excellent shape but could use a new layer of polish, and the sides are very rough.
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Jun 1, 2010 19:05
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MarshallX posted:I'm trying to decide whether to cut the knots out or leave them, they are pretty huge... My personal preference would be to not have them on the table top. parthenocarpy posted:...it is the actual alley flooring itself with lane markings and everything. I've read of people working with this stuff and it always sounds like a pain in the rear end but other than what I've googled I know nothing about it. I wish you luck though and hope you post about it as you go.
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Jun 1, 2010 22:48
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wormil posted:My personal preference would be to not have them on the table top. I ended up keeping them in my glue up. I made a neat book match style with two knots that lined up pretty nicely. I'll epoxy them and be done with it.
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Jun 2, 2010 03:14
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