|
kylej posted:Like z3n said, you're applying new bike logic to used bikes. Used motorcycles don't depreciate like cars. I bought my Ninja 250 in mint condition for $2200. I sold it 4500 miles later (with worn tires) for $2000. If you buy a used SV, EX250 or 500 you will save a ton of money and heartache if you do drop it. Hell, I've seen mint Ninja 650s with almost no miles for $3200-3500 on Craigslist. If you bought an EX650 you would have a fuel injected, modern bike with full fairings and bright colors. The general public will think you ride a Ducati. Let someone else take the hit on new. I'll leave it up to the experienced riders though. Do you guys think I should buy myself a cheap, used 250 and get myself used to a bike before upgrading to the gladius/SV of any sort?
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 00:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 04:58 |
|
|
it would be a terrible idea to buy a brand new bike for your first one.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 00:28
|
|
|
This question was kinda asked on page 25, but what would be involved in removing the half fairing from a 2001 SV650S to make it look like a naked SV650? Google has come up with a lot of people attempting the reverse, and I've read that the wiring harnesses are different. Also, I gather the SV650S gauges would have to be replaced because they're gigantic? Would there be a shop online that sells the OE sv650 parts for this, or would ebay be better?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 00:32
|
|
|
Typik posted:See the thing with the Gladius is, if I did wreck it, I'd put my heart and soul into fixing it. If I bought something cheap like a 250 I can't see myself having the same motivation. However, when it comes to issues of money, if I can make a bigger gain than loss on fixing something and selling it, I'd likely do it.. Let's put out 2 things here: 1 is: New riders drop bikes all the time. Low speed tip overs, misjudged something, stalled at the wrong time, whatever. There's also the worry of douchebags, a poor choice of parking spot, etc. 2 is: When you drop a bike, it's going to significantly devalue it if it's never been dropped before. Especially if that bike is new. And if that bike is new, replacement parts are going to be stupid expensive, an unlucky drop (say, on to a curb) can easily total a bike. A good beginner bike will cost you literally nothing if you drop it in a typical low speed accident. You'll swear, pick the bike up, and move on with your life. Dropping a brand new gladius means you're shelling out a good chunk of money for replacement parts, or suffering a huge hit in value. And you're gonna suffer a hit in value regardless, because you dropped the bike, and no one wants a new dropped bike. Finally, unless you've ridden in the past, you have honestly no idea what you're getting into and what you really want out of riding. You may discover that you really wanted to ride offroad, or do touring, or start trackdays, or stunting, or who knows what the gently caress. So spending 8k on a bike straight out the door when you don't know what you want out of riding yet isn't the best choice either, because you're gonna be stuck with it or stuck taking a big loss on it. mewse posted:This question was kinda asked on page 25, but what would be involved in removing the half fairing from a 2001 SV650S to make it look like a naked SV650? Google has come up with a lot of people attempting the reverse, and I've read that the wiring harnesses are different. Also, I gather the SV650S gauges would have to be replaced because they're gigantic? Naked headlight, naked fairing stay, and naked gauges, and off you go. I'd do it up custom with cheaper gauges, because it's hard to find SV650N gauges, personally. Edit: If you want to do the bars too, you'll have to get an N model upper triple, handlebars, and I think the N model has longer cables.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 00:40
|
|
|
mewse posted:This question was kinda asked on page 25, but what would be involved in removing the half fairing from a 2001 SV650S to make it look like a naked SV650? Google has come up with a lot of people attempting the reverse, and I've read that the wiring harnesses are different. Also, I gather the SV650S gauges would have to be replaced because they're gigantic? http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=122572
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 00:51
|
|
|
Typik posted:See the thing with the Gladius is, if I did wreck it, I'd put my heart and soul into fixing it. I'll give you some advice though, based on recent personal experience with my Gladius. When you drop it, make sure it falls on the right side. The exhaust and bar end will support it and you won't damage anything else. Those are real easy to replace. 
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 01:08
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Naked headlight, naked fairing stay, and naked gauges, and off you go. schreibs posted:http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=122572 Thanks to both of ya
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 01:17
|
|
|
I bought my 2nd gen Sv with a gsxr for swap already done. The speedometer will somedays read correctly and other days the speed jumps around with 10 to 15 mph range of the speed I'm actually doing. For instance if I'm holding steady at 60 on a road my speed will bounce around from 47 mph to 65 mph. From what I've read for a gsxr front end swap there should be magnets on my front rotor and a hall effect sensor spliced in. But what do I do for the speed jumping around? I searched on svrider but didn't pull up any threads specific to the situation I got so far.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 01:18
|
|
|
Sounds like a problem with the gauges more than anything.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 03:22
|
|
|
Coredump posted:I bought my 2nd gen Sv with a gsxr for swap already done. The speedometer will somedays read correctly and other days the speed jumps around with 10 to 15 mph range of the speed I'm actually doing. For instance if I'm holding steady at 60 on a road my speed will bounce around from 47 mph to 65 mph. From what I've read for a gsxr front end swap there should be magnets on my front rotor and a hall effect sensor spliced in. But what do I do for the speed jumping around? I searched on svrider but didn't pull up any threads specific to the situation I got so far. Did you check the setup to make sure you're getting a good connection and there's no problems with that?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 05:47
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I...how...what. no shop manual, i'll have to find something. My alignment is off because I had alot of damage due to a crash 3 years ago, it was never fully fixed but the shop got it as close as possible.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 11:57
|
|
|
Typik posted:See the thing with the Gladius is, if I did wreck it, I'd put my heart and soul into fixing it. However, your heart and soul is not what you keep in your wallet. That's where you keep your bike payment. So, you buy new for $8000 ($350/mo). Then you discover some of the things on this list: 7. Not putting a board under the kickstand on asphalt on a hot day. 10. Revving the engine, releasing clutch, and putting feet on pegs when the light turns green, but the bike's in neutral. 61. Pushing your bike into the garage and letting it get leaned just a little away from you, pulling you on top of it to the ground. 86. Swinging your legs too enthusiastically over the bike with tight trousers on and kicking it over. 111. Starting bike while standing to the left of the bike, squeezing clutch lever, then remembering too late that the bike is in gear. Realize that the bike has enough power to drag you 30' across the parking lot. 119. Stop for gas, carefully shut off ignition and take key out (to unlock tank), carefully remove helmet and set it over mirror, carefully remove gloves and place on instruments, open jacket, step off bike ... forget to put sidestand down. 40. Getting pissed off for dropping it in the first place, yanking it vigorously off the ground, only to have it dropped on the _other_ side. Can you afford to make your bike payment every month, *and* buy hundreds of dollars in replacement parts when you finally do drop it? Or are you willing to ride a bike that's been salvaged? You'll have to carry Collision insurance on a bike that's financed, which means you *can* report the drop to the insurance company, and they'll write you a check to repair it - or they'll write the bike off as 'too expensive to repair', and will salvage it. You'll have the opportunity to buy it back from them with the salvage title - and I hope that you don't owe more on the bike than it's worth at that point. That comes right out of your pocket. I saw a 2009 TW200 on Craigslist over the winter. It was stupid cheap ($1200 on a $4900 bike). The insurance wrote it off on a driveway tipover. The only damage was cosmetic. All the plastics and pegs had cosmetic-only scratches that you couldn't even see from the non-detail-of-the-scratches pictures. Typik posted:Well see the thing is is that I want a bike that'll last me a good few years. I plan on taking care of whatever bike I get as best as possible, people keep suggesting I get a cheaper, used bike first, but the thing is, I don't have enough money to just buy a bike, resell it when I feel I have the skill to upgrade, and resave up all of the money lost in what use I put into it. Plus, if the ninja broke down on me, or I wrecked on the ninja, I feel like I'd hardly get any return on the cash I spent, and that just wouldn't work out for me.  My first bike was a 'pre-crashed' BMW R1100RS with almost 178,000 miles on it, and complete service records. Bought for $1350 (delivered across town) in October. Sold ~300 miles later in identical condition for $1150 in February. I could likely have just sat on it until riding season came around and made rather more on it. I dropped it turning it around in the parking lot the first day I got on it, and I fell off of it doing about 7 MPH on the last warm day we had in October - had I bought new, I'd DEFINITELY have been crying at the loss in value (about $3000) on a heretofore pristine bike - doubly so a BMW - but you're looking at a brand new $8000 ($6999 + Tax) bike, so the difference between the two bikes isn't *that* much that it can be dismissed. My second bike is an '82 Yamaha SR250 with a mildly dented tank that I picked up for $500, and will likely sell for $1100 after investing $200 in new tires, chain, tubes, and a battery.  ...and I'm buying my *third* bike (in 8 months) in a couple of weeks. Used is definitely the way to go. Rather than a $8000 new Gladius, why not have a look at the 15 or so in the country on Craigslist. There's one in Houston that's $4000. The other $4000 will *definitely* buy you a plane ticket to go get it, and the gas and lodging to ride it back to wherever you live. Plus, you'll have your first Motorcycle Story. =) Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 19:53 on May 21, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2010 18:43
|
|
|
Well I was going to buy the Gladius used. If I said differently, my bad. Either way I decided i'm just going to buy a Ninja 500 or 250 first and just work my way up. Sounds good right? I get my bike sooner, and can keep riding while saving up the money to upgrade again later down the road.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2010 21:37
|
|
|
Very good. Get a 250
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2010 23:12
|
|
|
Typik posted:Either way I decided i'm just going to buy a Ninja 500 or 250 first and just work my way up. Sounds good right? I get my bike sooner, and can keep riding while saving up the money to upgrade again later down the road.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2010 00:24
|
|
|
Anyone have thoughts on raising the rear of the SV specifically after a GSXR fork swap? Was sitting on it just now and it felt really low, granted the seat wasn't on it but still seemed low. I would have to grab some new dog bones to raise it as I have a 636 shock on there now so I cant just raise it at the shock(I know it's not the greatest my next investment should be a Penske). Should hopefully be rideable soon, starting the wiring for my vapor gauges tomorrow, so I will probably wait until then to make the final decision. But what is the generally excepted wisdom on this I know the GSXR forks change the geometry a bit.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2010 01:05
|
|
|
Did an oil and filter change today, filled it up with 3.9 quarts instead of the recommended 2.9. Rode it for 20 miles before I realized what I had done. How much damage could have been done to it?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2010 05:08
|
|
|
^^^It's fine, just drain the extra out before you ride it any more. Didn't you check the sight glass when you filled it?Sick_Nukes posted:Anyone have thoughts on raising the rear of the SV specifically after a GSXR fork swap? Was sitting on it just now and it felt really low, granted the seat wasn't on it but still seemed low. I would have to grab some new dog bones to raise it as I have a 636 shock on there now so I cant just raise it at the shock(I know it's not the greatest my next investment should be a Penske). Should hopefully be rideable soon, starting the wiring for my vapor gauges tomorrow, so I will probably wait until then to make the final decision. But what is the generally excepted wisdom on this I know the GSXR forks change the geometry a bit. Try riding it first. I wouldn't raise the rear yet...the drop in the front will make the geometry much more aggressive, and raising the rear will make it even more quick steering and potentially unstable. It does make the bike feel a bit lower because you're taking around 2 inches out of the front (iirc) when you swap over to the GSX-R forks. Too much rear ride height (or too low in the front, if you drop the triples down on the forks) can also cause the bike to be very unstable after the apex as you drive out of a corner, not a very good feeling. Usually for street riding, stock rear ride height and the GSX-R forks is a good setup, for the track, you may want to play with it more.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2010 05:38
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Try riding it first. I wouldn't raise the rear yet...the drop in the front will make the geometry much more aggressive, and raising the rear will make it even more quick steering and potentially unstable. It does make the bike feel a bit lower because you're taking around 2 inches out of the front (iirc) when you swap over to the GSX-R forks. Too much rear ride height (or too low in the front, if you drop the triples down on the forks) can also cause the bike to be very unstable after the apex as you drive out of a corner, not a very good feeling. Usually for street riding, stock rear ride height and the GSX-R forks is a good setup, for the track, you may want to play with it more. Cool, that actually makes sense that lowering the front and raising the rear would have the same effect and in this case since I just lowered the front probably not a good idea to raise the rear right away. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2010 14:06
|
|
|
Anyone know of the 03 ZX6R shock will fit a 1st gen SV? Been doing some reading and the spring diameter is 82mm, a site I read on said the 1st gen could take a 75-80mm. I didn't pay much for this shock ($12 inc shipping), but before I tear into this thing and waste time I wanted to ask first. Edit : After reading through a post on svrider apparently someone had a pretty good time installing the 03-04 vs others for the ZX6R, looks like I may be in good shape. mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 18:12 on May 26, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2010 18:02
|
|
|
I've got an 03 SV650N i'm about to put an 03 gsxr750 front end on but i'm still not sure what to do about the rear suspension. I'm really light, only around 145 with full leathers on. Should I be looking to replace the rear shock and if so, what's a good one to go with without going penske or ohlins? I see people recommending GSXR and ZX10 shocks but those seem to be too stiff for someone of my weight.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2010 12:41
|
|
|
Ambihelical Hexnut posted:After two years of riding both on and offroad with my KTM enduro (heavy downpour in 70mph freeway traffic that suddenly stops and you're on knobbies YEAAA) I figured an SV650 would be a good transition to streetbikering. this post makes me want to buy an SV650 to commute on instead of my DRZ400  The DRZ is quite lacking in alot of ways on the road except in heavy traffic i can rush through traffic like a bicycle courier, or better.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2010 13:50
|
|
|
King of all Machines Operate posted:I've got an 03 SV650N i'm about to put an 03 gsxr750 front end on but i'm still not sure what to do about the rear suspension. I'm really light, only around 145 with full leathers on. Should I be looking to replace the rear shock and if so, what's a good one to go with without going penske or ohlins? I see people recommending GSXR and ZX10 shocks but those seem to be too stiff for someone of my weight. I'd stick with the stock shock initially. Unfortunately, there isn't really a good "compromise" shock...just wait and find a used penske or ohlins. You can buy a ZX/GSX-R shock and get it revalved and resprung, but then you're in the 400$+ range where you could have just bought a used ohlins. Or wait around on SVrider until you see a shock swap that someone has already had redone. An SV with wide bars on it is a pretty drat nice commuting rig.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2010 14:48
|
|
|
I mounted the Z shock on my SV. However, I HATE, let me repeat, HATE HATE HATE the method used to retain the battery and box. So after searching around a bit I have ordered a set of A123 cells and will run 8 of them in parallel for a custom battery pack that will be much smaller than the stock battery. So after that I can return my bike back to stock look instead of keeping the spacers to push the battery box away from the shock. Edit : Oh, and, WOW does that shock make a difference. I can feel it by just sitting on the bike, it is a much better feel. Can't wait to get this battery built. Man I really hate the lock of these spacers. Also picked up a R/R from a 2006 CBR to replace the stock turd. mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 17:05 on May 28, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 28, 2010 16:52
|
|
|
Ambihelical Hexnut posted:PS: gently caress CARBS I AM NEVER BUYING A NON-FI BIKE AGAIN I'm a bad bike owner. Last fall I never winterized my 04 SV650... it sat in a garage with the battery in place, a half tank of gas, and no sta-bil or anything like that. This spring I charged the battery, changed the oil, and it started right up like it hadn't even been an hour since I last rode. I dunno if that's cause FI kicks rear end or just dumb luck, but I was pretty happy.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2010 00:42
|
|
|
`Nemesis posted:I'm a bad bike owner. This is exactly how my '03 gets "winterized". I usually park it in late Oct or early Nov with a full tank of gas, and then change the oil in March before I start riding again. Never gives me any trouble at all!
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2010 04:47
|
|
|
Just a quick check here to see if anyone has the starter cable (aka choke cable) for a 1st gen SV? Part # is 58410-20F00. Trying to find one quickly so I can take the bike with me on my little get away this coming weekend. Dealers are going to take till next week to get it (PATHETIC!!!!)
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2010 04:17
|
|
|
In terms of GSXR front end swaps, does anyone know how good the various years are compared to each other? I picked up an 03 GSXR 750 front end for 200 and that came with the forks, triples, wheel, and calipers. I still need rotors and a fender (which apparently is much harder to find for that year :\) and to rebuild the brakes. There's an 06 GSXR 600 front end on ebay right now for around 450 shipped, and that's a complete front end with wheel and clipons. Is the 06 front end better enough to justify selling the parts I have now and just buy the complete swap or would it be fine just to stick to the parts I have now? That said, if anyone has an 00-03 600/750 or 00-02 1000 front fender let me know!
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2010 11:35
|
|
|
I just checked and mine has the 06 gsxr front end. The guy also put on r1 calipers, so you might be able to do that to the 04 front end?
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2010 13:29
|
|
|
The most important thing isn't the year of forks, it's if they're set up for you or not. The 06 front end has more bling (radial mount calipers) but isn't actually any "better"...they're both cartridge fork front ends. Coredump posted:I just checked and mine has the 06 gsxr front end. The guy also put on r1 calipers, so you might be able to do that to the 04 front end? Not possible...the 03 750 uses standard mount calipers and the 06 uses radial mount.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2010 15:03
|
|
|
Well, looks like I just bought an 06 600 front end, 05 1000 upper triple, and TLR clip ons. Hopefully I can sell the 600 upper triple and clip ons to make some of that money back. Got some ASV refurb levers for $40 shipped. Still need to figure out the speedo and make a mount for the hosed up radiator that's held on with zip ties. Ignoring the rear shock for now, Hoping i'm a light enough rider (145 or so with full gear) that it should be good enough for now. Stickers over the dented/rashed side of my tank and my SV is as good as new!
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2010 04:23
|
|
|
This problem has finally started to get annoying enough that I'd like to fix it. When my gladius is at low speed and usually second gear, it stumbles at low throttle. From barely-open to maybe 10% throttle, the bike will lose power for a second, and then abruptly put it back on, usually with a little bucking if I don't have the clutch feathered. Happens most often when I go from braking to maintenance throttle when coming into a turn, or slowing down to match heavy traffic. It's annoying in a straight line, but downright scary in turns. Is there anywhere I should look for the problem, or is this likely to be a purely ECU-related issue? The bike is out of warranty, so a replacement ECU is probably not something I can afford. Maybe a power commander type deal would work, but I don't think there are any for the Gladius yet.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2010 16:05
|
|
|
Well, you can check the basics first...air filter, spark plugs, and see if a basic tune up fixes it. From there, I'd be looking into some sort of fuel management software, because you can't tune out something like that on FI without one. Also, have you checked your chain slack recently?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2010 16:26
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Well, you can check the basics first...air filter, spark plugs, and see if a basic tune up fixes it. From there, I'd be looking into some sort of fuel management software, because you can't tune out something like that on FI without one. Yeah, checked the basics, and tightened the chain last week. (I was feeling a little chain lash, but fixing that didn't help.) I *might* need a new filter. It doesn't look dirty, but recommended interval is 6000 and I'm at 8. Still, this has been going on for a while. PowerCommander doesn't seem to have a module for the Gladius. Anywhere else I can look for one, or is there some way to backup and custom flash the factory one? Edit: Well hey, looks like there is a PC for the Gladius. Guess that's one option. I'd still prefer to "fix" the factory one. Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Jun 2, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2010 16:42
|
|
|
There's really no way to flash the stock ECU, unfortunately...you just gotta go with an aftermarket piggyback module.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2010 17:05
|
|
|
Yeah, it's looking as much, thanks. Gonna be tough to convince the wife to let me spend the $350, after I just bought a new seat and brake lines for the warrior.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2010 17:09
|
|
|
Another quick question, how overbuilt are these radiators? My k3 has it's radiator pretty smashed up after a drop but I managed to ride it through maybe 30 miles of twisties home after zip tying the radiator back to the frame and temperatures seemed slightly higher than normal but mostly ok. Except for changing one of the hoses that has a tiny leak and making a mount for the radiator is it pretty much ok to just leave as is?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2010 21:08
|
|
|
King of all Machines Operate posted:Another quick question, how overbuilt are these radiators? My k3 has it's radiator pretty smashed up after a drop but I managed to ride it through maybe 30 miles of twisties home after zip tying the radiator back to the frame and temperatures seemed slightly higher than normal but mostly ok. Except for changing one of the hoses that has a tiny leak and making a mount for the radiator is it pretty much ok to just leave as is? Pretty overbuilt. If it's not leaking, chances are it'll be ok, although to be on the safe side, I'd probably ship it off to a place like http://www.motorcycleradiators.com/ to get it straightened and pressure tested.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2010 22:46
|
|
|
Mylers did a good job of repairing and straightening my radiator after a drop last summer. They have really quick turnaround as well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2010 22:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 04:58 |
|
|
Z3n posted:Pretty overbuilt. If it's not leaking, chances are it'll be ok, although to be on the safe side, I'd probably ship it off to a place like http://www.motorcycleradiators.com/ to get it straightened and pressure tested. There's no need to send it off somewhere. Any decent sized town will have a radiator shop filled with crusty old dudes that are loving radiator wizards. I have an original radiator for my '67 Mustang that is basically nothing but bronze solder at this point; done for $45. I'm pretty sure those guys don't actually make money, they just do it because they love it and charge money to keep up appearances.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2010 03:41
|
|
