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My SAAB got backed into by some idiot in a Civic last monday...scraped all the way down the side and ripped off my rear bumper while loving up my freshly painted wheel...
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May 30, 2010 01:12
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My gf's 1999 9-3 had what I think is the window roller shattering issue happen to her front passenger window. When she was rolling it down, there was a bang and the back corner rotated forward and dipped to the center of the window frame. I've ordered the rollers and am going to follow the DIY here: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117558 Anyone done this before? How brittle is the Saab/GM plastic? When I did something similar on my 1990 Miata, I broke about 3 or 4 plastic clips getting the door card off.
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Jun 2, 2010 15:49
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Nuclear Tourist posted:So yeah, today I downed enough ritalin to work myself up into buying this: Your car looks awesome, congratulations. If you're talking about the thing at the top of the center dash that has all the information on gas, temp, etc, that thing is called the Saab Information Display(SID). They break like no other. There are a few guides on the internet on how to fix them if you just google. I tried to do it on mine and wasn't too succesful, but I know there are people who will get it working just fine for around 100 bucks on Ebay.
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Jun 2, 2010 23:09
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Karl Barks posted:Your car looks awesome, congratulations. If you're talking about the thing at the top of the center dash that has all the information on gas, temp, etc, that thing is called the Saab Information Display(SID). They break like no other. There are a few guides on the internet on how to fix them if you just google. I tried to do it on mine and wasn't too succesful, but I know there are people who will get it working just fine for around 100 bucks on Ebay. Thanks! And yes, that's exactly the thing that's dead. Per your recommendation I just did a search for it on ebay and saw this place which offers to fix the thing and send it back to you, as long as you're willing to rip it out of your dashboard yourself: link Very tempting I must say, would be swell to have at least one of those displays fully functional. I think I'll go out tomorrow and see if it's possible to gingerly pry it out with a thin little nail file or something. What kind of implement did you use to remove the unit from the dash?
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Jun 3, 2010 00:20
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Nuclear Tourist posted:Thanks! And yes, that's exactly the thing that's dead. Per your recommendation I just did a search for it on ebay and saw this place which offers to fix the thing and send it back to you, as long as you're willing to rip it out of your dashboard yourself: link I just remember using something very thin and just slowly wiggling it so that the unit just barely popped out, then pulling it out from there. http://www.saab9-5.com/howto/sidrepair.htm Here is a site on how to fix it if you wanna give it a try yourself before sending it off. When I did it, it only fixed the time on the left side, but mine isn't too bad. Also, while it does say it's for the 9-5, they're practically the same thing.
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Jun 3, 2010 00:25
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Ok, I managed to yank the SID module out of the dash (that was surprisingly easy). I'll try the DIY solution in that 9-5 guide, updates to follow on how badly I mess up! Edit: I opened the thing up and had a look, and it appears the ribbon cable is partly torn at the point where it connects with the main circuit board. I also noticed a tiny hole on the ribbon cable that looked slightly burned, like there had been a little short or something. Tried to be methodical about it and took some pictures of the damage, only to realize that I had forgotten to put the camera memory card back in.  I'll piece it back together and put it back in the car for now, if some other solution doesn't magically appear I think I'll send it to the ebay repair place next week and hope for the best. Nuclear Tourist fucked around with this message at 12:05 on Jun 3, 2010 |
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Jun 3, 2010 09:46
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If there's a burn hole on the ribbon, the PO probably tried (and failed) to fix it already. Mine was also hopelessly broken in the same fashion. I have had great results with BBA remanufacturing. They deal on eBay or through their website. They offer a lifetime warranty on the repair. I had them fix my SID 3 years ago and it hasn't dropped a single pixel yet! Well worth it! Whatever you do, don't use Kramer micro repair. Most people only get a handful of pixels back, and have it fail shortly afterwards with absolutely no recourse. BBA also does remanufactured throttle bodies (if you ever experience surging) and alarm modules (if you get service theft alarm messages on the SID, or have the alarm randomly go off). Waaaay cheaper than new stock parts, and also carry a lifetime warranty! stipud fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Jun 3, 2010 |
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Jun 3, 2010 18:28
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Yeah, BBA is looking like an increasingly good deal. Even though I live in Sweden every domestic SID repair place I've looked at is charging about twice as much than BBA. Oh well!
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Jun 3, 2010 19:58
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Nuclear Tourist posted:2000 Saab 9-3. It's gorgeous. Congratulations. You are in the 'sludge' zone. Make sure you've got the PCV update installed. Change your oil more often than every 10k; I change it in my 2k 9-5 about every 5k, at most. Make drat sure your oil light comes on when you first start the car to show that it's working, and if it ever comes on during idle/high revs/etc, it's time to stop driving, immediately. The SID dying is a very common problem, and as you are aware, is quite easy to replace. Edit: Not meant to be a plug, but check out SaabNet. Chat/basic forums are incredibly 1996, but they're free, and invaluable InitialDave posted:This guy has gone pretty Of course it takes a lot of work to gently caress it up (making your own adaptors/etc at times), but do not gently caress with the SaabOpenProg software here unless you have a very understanding dealer nearby with both a Tech2 and spare T-7 equipment. T5Suite/T7suite are considered fairly stable. ssh fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jun 3, 2010 |
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Jun 3, 2010 20:17
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This guy has gone pretty  on all the wiring/electronics of that era Saab: http://pikkupossu.1g.fi/tomi/projects/projects.html
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Jun 3, 2010 20:28
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ssh posted:It's gorgeous. Congratulations. You are in the 'sludge' zone. I'll definitely be changing the oil regularly. According to its service book it had its oil + oil filter replaced in october last year, so I suppose it's about time again soon. Nuclear Tourist fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Jun 3, 2010 |
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Jun 3, 2010 22:44
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kimbo305 posted:My gf's 1999 9-3 had what I think is the window roller shattering issue happen to her front passenger window. When she was rolling it down, there was a bang and the back corner rotated forward and dipped to the center of the window frame. I repaired the rollers on my '95 9000 with no ill-effects. The rollers had worn to the point where the cable had slid off (or some weird crap) and bound up in a tangled mess. I then replaced the rollers and bushing with a $40 kit. Then I had a specialist rewind the tangled mass of cable. The window has worked fine since. Taking it apart was no problem at all. I somewhat took my time and nothing broke or had snapped. It was pretty easy.
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Jun 4, 2010 06:49
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Nuclear Tourist posted:I'll definitely be changing the oil regularly. According to its service book it had its oil + oil filter replaced in october last year, so I suppose it's about time again soon. Drop the pan and clean out the sludge. My new motor hadn't been done, and it had tonnes of junk in the cone shaped pickup. Ill be dropping the pan again after another oil change to make sure its all gone.
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Jun 4, 2010 06:56
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What kind of oil do you people use, I assume some good quality synthetic would be in order? Maybe with some sludge-dissolving compounds, or does that risk breaking up any potential sludge and causing it to clog up other parts of the engine?
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Jun 4, 2010 09:29
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Tsu posted:I repaired the rollers on my '95 9000 with no ill-effects. The rollers had worn to the point where the cable had slid off (or some weird crap) and bound up in a tangled mess. I then replaced the rollers and bushing with a $40 kit. Then I had a specialist rewind the tangled mass of cable. The window has worked fine since. I ended up using the NG900 instructions for taking off the door card: http://www.saabcentral.com/~munki/technical/interior/front_door_card.htm Almost an exact match. The only thing that threw me off was the brads holding on the A-pillar corner cover. If only I'd saw it was the driver's side door... The plastic was good to work with. I accidentally stepped on and broke the lateral end clip on the door card though. Will have to hit up a local jy for a replacement. On the inside, for posterity, the access holes are pretty tight, so works easiest if you can still roll the lift up and down. WRT to the 9-5 instructions, the 9-3's lifter is inverted -- when the window is going down, the X squashes under the bottom edge of the window, compared to the 9-5, where the X droops and the bottom edge of the window goes down past the X. So the roller that was busted for me was the top rear one. But thanks to it going, the front roller had come off, too. I couldn't see the bottom roller, but feeling it seemed to show that it was ok. I popped off the two top rollers and slip on the new ones with securing clips in place. Then I pressed in the lifter arm pins into the rollers. This was made much easier by lowering the window a bit. It would be hell if the regulator were stuck or something. Even with a fairly clear access to them, it took a lot of pressure to pop them in. That's what made me decide that I shouldn't bother with the bottom one. Worse comes to worse, I'll just do it again.
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Jun 4, 2010 18:00
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Nuclear Tourist posted:What kind of oil do you people use, I assume some good quality synthetic would be in order? Maybe with some sludge-dissolving compounds, or does that risk breaking up any potential sludge and causing it to clog up other parts of the engine? Mobil1 0W-30 http://www.mobil.com/usa-english/lubes/pds/glxxenpvlmomobil1_0w-30.asp
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Jun 4, 2010 19:11
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Does anyone have experience with the SportCombi with the V6? I found one in stick, CPO and the allure is strong. Am I shooting myself in the face if I drop some coin on it? edit: it ain't AWD. KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jun 4, 2010 |
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Jun 4, 2010 20:08
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Does anyone have experience with the SportCombi with the V6? I found one in stick, CPO and the allure is strong. Am I shooting myself in the face if I drop some coin on it? What year, and which V6? The 3.0s had a nasty problem with a nice little leak near the center that would take about 8 hours to disassemble. 2.8s are pretty solid.
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Jun 5, 2010 00:48
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Does anyone have experience with the SportCombi with the V6? I found one in stick, CPO and the allure is strong. Am I shooting myself in the face if I drop some coin on it? I didn't even know they made an AWD SportCombi
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Jun 5, 2010 06:04
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The ad's gone, plus I've come to my senses.
Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Jun 7, 2010 |
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Jun 6, 2010 18:02
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Hagetaka posted:I didn't even know they made an AWD SportCombi They don't, I'm a big idiot. It's FWD. And yeah, it's the 2.8.
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Jun 7, 2010 15:37
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:And yeah, it's the 2.8. Those are pretty solid. Make sure you check all of the records, though. One of the known problems with the 9-3 w/ 2.8 is that the break booster valve doesn't work right, so you won't necessarily stop unless you have that replaced.
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Jun 7, 2010 18:51
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Isn't their an awd sportcombi in the form of that black 9-3 aero special edition thing they released a year ago? I mean there is probably only like 300 of them but they do exist. Also the 9-3x is coming out soon supposedly.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:10
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I moved house and in the new neighborhood there are some nicer cars. The upshot is that I got to run alongside a 9-3 Turbo X the other day. It's a good looking, but really subtle car. It makes a great noise. I heard they only sent 600 to the USA, but I don't know how many (if any) made it to Canada. I hope they make more stealth bombers like that one and get a handle on their dealership network. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jun 7, 2010 |
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Jun 7, 2010 23:15
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Karl Barks posted:Isn't their an awd sportcombi in the form of that black 9-3 aero special edition thing they released a year ago? I mean there is probably only like 300 of them but they do exist. Also the 9-3x is coming out soon supposedly. There is a Turbo X SportCombi. Not sure if any of them made the states, or not. I've never seen one.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:17
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nevermind, can't read
Nuclear Tourist fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Jun 8, 2010 |
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Jun 7, 2010 23:57
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I saw a Turbo X at my Saab dealership, and if I remember correctly, the price was north of 40 grand. But with Saab's legendary depreciation, it probably costs about 47 cents now.
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Jun 8, 2010 00:57
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ssh posted:There is a Turbo X SportCombi. Not sure if any of them made the states, or not. I've never seen one. Yeah, Augusta had one. It sat on the lot for a long time for such a low-number car.
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Jun 8, 2010 01:29
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Petekill posted:I saw a Turbo X at my Saab dealership, and if I remember correctly, the price was north of 40 grand. But with Saab's legendary depreciation, it probably costs about 47 cents now. There was a non-combi here in Reno with sub-10k for $17k a few months ago. I almost considered more debt. I really want a V6 to add to the collection. Hagetaka posted:Yeah, Augusta had one. It sat on the lot for a long time for such a low-number car. I'll be damned. Thanks. I test drove a Lynx in Billings while I was having my under-warranty oil changed while on vacation. That was a peppy little beast. Edit: Talking to a local lady about her 9-3 2.8T Convertible. It's seafoam green, but I can live with that. 
ssh fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jun 8, 2010 |
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Jun 8, 2010 04:30
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Figured out why the Saab was smoking today: Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. oh... looks like broken teeth  It's also got about 1/2" play back and forth so it's definitely long gone. I don't even know if it could be rebuilt. I don't know what happened to the chunks - I blew out the intercooler in case, but don't think I got anything. Fortunately, I have a new TD04! YES! so I plug it up, and used some Earl's hardware banjo bolts because I needed smaller banjos for the coolant connections to the TD04. This swap isn't easy, the lines don't QUITE line up. Just enough to piss you off but some bending is necessary for the coolant and oil lines. I spent from 8AM to 5PM getting it all together and as soon as I poured water in it started to leak from the new banjo bolts. No problem, I left them kind of loose might as well tighten them up a little bit right?  Click here for the full 1500x1100 image. gently caress I just pulled it off the ramps and left it parked. You can see what happened - the crush washer wasn't PERFECTLY in the center so there was a leak, I honestly didn't put that much force on it and snap! Now I want to buy the right parts, found them at e-europarts but they cost $21! each. This is the link:http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=90490325 Any place I can get them for cheaper? I honestly don't want to bother with other banjos that may or may not work. Now I have to wait until next weekend and all I got for a long day of work was sunburn.
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Jun 13, 2010 03:06
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So, Akebono ceramic pads: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/results.jsp?autoMake=Saab&autoModel=9-3+2.0T+Sedan&autoYear=2006&autoModClar=With+Rubber+Valve+Stems Better dust-wise than the OEM? Any complaints about ceramic pads from anyone?
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Jun 14, 2010 03:47
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Hagetaka posted:So, Akebono ceramic pads:  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Been running them in my 2K for 15k. I like them. Haven't had much dust to speak of (just the usual dirt in the desert), and it stops well enough. I had OEM in the 2K8 which were worn/dead by 10k, and have replaced them with Akebono, but it's not quite as happy as the older car is. [Edit: Also featured, my new-to-me oak table.  ]However, though, you are 2K6, same basic as my 2K8. I've been having a hell of a time with my 2K8 with both stock, and Akebono. It stops like a loving tank. Going to bleed it on Thursday and see if I can get any better stopping power. Let me know how you fare. ssh fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Jun 15, 2010 |
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Jun 15, 2010 18:12
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Victory   Got my repaired SID back today. As soon as I plopped it in it told me to check the brake lights, fill up the coolant and windshield washing fluid. Thanks! All that was left of the coolant was a tiny little puddle on the bottom of the overflow tank, so I hope there isn't a leak somewhere. Next step: oil change.
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Jun 30, 2010 12:21
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Nuclear Tourist posted:Victory I hope to hell you replaced the lights beneath the sid while you had it out. They may not be dead yet, but they will be. ..unless you're already setup for the LEDs, in which case I hate you for it. Half of my console is dead; I am not looking forward to removing it to replace the, uh.. 43 bulbs.
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Jun 30, 2010 15:52
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Ouch, that must be annoying as hell when you're driving during the night. As far as I can tell all my LED's still work, I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. The climate control display is half-dead though, so it's a bit difficult to tell what I'm doing when I'm trying to set up the air conditioning. But that's a rather minor complaint, I suppose.
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Jun 30, 2010 16:34
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Nuclear Tourist posted:Ouch, that must be annoying as hell when you're driving during the night.  Son, do you know how fast you were going? No officer, my speedo is only lit to 75!
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Jun 30, 2010 18:27
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I managed to finally stuff the TD04 in my car! The secret is ordering the banjo bolts online and looking REALLY HARD for them because drat are they hard to find. I drove it into work today, spools up nice but I don't get the boost I used to get from the T25. I'm thinking it's either a boost leak or software/other install issue. It also spools really loud - sounds like the car may actually have been "born from jets". Probably because I still need to hook my new intake up to the stock airbox. I need to hook up the PCV and verify the BPC valve is hooked up correctly - check for boost leaks and I'll be done. The thing just HAULS compared to when it had the old turbo I posted earlier. 40 to 75 or 80 happens way too fast- but passing on the drat two lane country highways is way better. I guess I'll post some pics later when I've got it more hooked up.
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Jul 2, 2010 23:26
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Captain Crunk posted:I managed to finally stuff the TD04 in my car! You haven't reprogrammed it and you stuck the TD04 in it already? You should be able to flash it up - but there may be other things to take into consideration before trying to directly Aeroize it. What's your VIN?
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Jul 2, 2010 23:30
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Out there question- if I wanted to Aero-ize my brakes on my '06 Arc, would it just take the larger rotors and calipers, or would the rest of the system (master/slave cylinder, etc.) need work too?
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Jul 3, 2010 00:56
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Hagetaka posted:Out there question- if I wanted to Aero-ize my brakes on my '06 Arc, would it just take the larger rotors and calipers, or would the rest of the system (master/slave cylinder, etc.) need work too? Honestly, I wouldn't bother with that. The new Cermanic/Organic pads are pure poo poo. I had them on my 2K8. I ended up just replacing the pads with the old style Akebonos, and it's a world of difference. Sure, there's more dust and more wear, but the goddamn thing stops in less than a mile. Of course if you want to go hog wild, that's an option too.
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Jul 3, 2010 02:46
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