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Lord Commissar posted:I need some ideas for movement trays for my 10mm Black Powder guys. What're the bases like? Maybe hollowed-out foamcore?
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May 31, 2010 21:03
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Chenghiz posted:What're the bases like? Maybe hollowed-out foamcore? They're GF9 Econobases, 16x16mm.
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May 31, 2010 21:08
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Wow that Wesp is amazing. I ordered the Open Fire set a few days ago (after reading this thread through) as I want to get into some historicals and FoW seems the place to start. Can someone tell me, if i choose an army/company or whatever from say Fortress Europe, and I go to a club to play and some guy has his north Africa desert rats, we can still play each other? Or can you only play armies from the matching book. Obviously its not historically accurate, but is this how tournaments are played? Or is a theme chosen? Also, I remember reading somewhere, maybe PV posted it a while ago, but does anyone have links to some hardcore WW2 mini painting forum? I remember hearing about one where everyone is really good and go nuts with converting for accuracy and painting details. I wanna check that out.
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May 31, 2010 23:38
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big_g posted:Here's where I am with the Wasp I love the look of some of the WW2 guns of this ilk. I've got a ridiculously chunky L61 Sturer Emil (that I kinda hosed up by a] trying to kitbash it into a warhammer 40k vehicle and b] paint really badly)
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May 31, 2010 23:41
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Tentacle Party posted:Wow that Wesp is amazing. Most tournaments are done by period - early/mid/late. you can battle forces from any book as long as they are from the same time period. I am sure you can try to mix the periods up but I am pretty sure late war armies would kick everyone earlier's asses.
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Jun 1, 2010 00:41
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^^^^ Pretty much this. Late war stuff tends to be "cheap" by comparison to early and mid war stuff (not that there is an early war yet....). For example, in 1944 a Tiger I E costs 215 points, while in 1942-1943 it costs 385 points for the same tank with the same skill level crew.
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Jun 1, 2010 02:06
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This month's Wargames Illustrated comes with a free exclusive osprey book on Napoleon's french guards. A pretty cool extra for a magazine that only cost me 12 of my moon dollars.
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Jun 1, 2010 07:26
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No Pun Intended posted:This month's Wargames Illustrated comes with a free exclusive osprey book on Napoleon's french guards. A pretty cool extra for a magazine that only cost me 12 of my moon dollars. A lot of people on TMP etc. were whining that WI would become just like White Dwarf when it was bought up by battlefront, but instead it turned into what White Dwarf should be. I painted up some Choson Koreans today, I am really not sure about how they turned out. I'll put up some pictures when I get home.
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Jun 1, 2010 07:36
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lilljonas posted:A lot of people on TMP etc. were whining that WI would become just like White Dwarf when it was bought up by battlefront, but instead it turned into what White Dwarf should be. Pretty much
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Jun 1, 2010 08:32
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Yeah, it's a drat fine magazine really. Battlefront: playing GW better than GW do it. I'm vaguely tempted to get it for the free Osprey but I dunno, Napoleonics ain't my thing and not being able to flick through it means I don't know if there's anything of interest in there. Ah well.
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Jun 1, 2010 14:28
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Couple more pics of the nearly nearly done Matilda and jumping on the FoW band wagon some of my couple year old Tigers.    
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Jun 1, 2010 20:40
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Wow, those are really nice! The weathering on the matilda is great, really nice scale. Did you use an airbrush for either? I recieved my Open Fire kit yesterday, and surprise surprise one of the schurzen are broken and entirely missing. Oh well, I guess they are only for learning.
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Jun 2, 2010 04:47
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Currently making a start on my Langton 1:1200 scale ships for Trafalgar. Probably the trickiest things Ive painted in a long while. Fiddly to do and also hard to find accurate source material.
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Jun 2, 2010 05:36
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Serotonin posted:Currently making a start on my Langton 1:1200 scale ships for Trafalgar. Just wait until you get to the rigging, you'll get plenty of use for cursewords.
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Jun 2, 2010 07:26
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lilljonas posted:Just wait until you get to the rigging, you'll get plenty of use for cursewords. To be honest I am unsure if I will bother. I have rat lines that I will add on, but for now Im not going to do the riging. I may come back to it once they are all paitned. Also I had the idea of not using thread for my rigging. I use the bristles from a nylon broom as attena for my 6/10mm tanks, and I reckon its thin enough to use as rigging material.
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Jun 2, 2010 10:34
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Lord Commissar posted:They're GF9 Econobases, 16x16mm. DO you magnetize the bottoms for storage/transport? If so (and you should), get some "flex-steel" and cut it to the size you want for movement trays. Flex-steel - http://www.litkoaero.com/page/LAI/CTGY/FMS The stuff cuts like heavy paper, so scissors work fine. If you have a paper cutter, that's even better for straight cuts, right angles, etc.
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Jun 2, 2010 17:20
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Tentacle Party posted:Wow, those are really nice! The weathering on the matilda is great, really nice scale. Did you use an airbrush for either?
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Jun 2, 2010 17:28
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Tamir Lenk posted:DO you magnetize the bottoms for storage/transport? I haven't magnetized them yet, but it's my plan. Thanks for the link! Should work perfectly. Tentacle Party posted:Wow, those are really nice! The weathering on the matilda is great, really nice scale. Did you use an airbrush for either? I had the same issue with my Open Fire! box. I sent Battlefront an email and they sent me a replacement tank. 3 Action Economist fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Jun 2, 2010 |
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Jun 2, 2010 18:48
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Arquinsiel posted:Take a picture if you can, I'd be interested to see what it looks like and if it's recoverable. If not you can always email Battlefront and ask if you can send it back to be replaced. I dont think its recoverable now. I decided to make them into a LiebePanzer company instead.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. I wonder how many historical forums I can troll with this?
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Jun 2, 2010 23:47
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I think I want to start my fleet(s). Is there a good 'starter' list of ships to buy for various navies? I found a US supplier of Langton ships, so I don't have to pay international shipping and exchange rates, but I'm not sure what I should get to start with. I'd like enough to at least play a few games. EDIT: 3 Action Economist fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jun 3, 2010 |
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Jun 3, 2010 00:03
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I just went with what Langton recommended for the fleets, and added a French ship to make them equal in points. I also opted to go with my own "build" of those ships (so I could pick the exact ships I wanted), which was still cheaper with shipping, bases and ratlines included.code:
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Jun 3, 2010 01:36
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Tentacle Party posted:I dont think its recoverable now. I decided to make them into a LiebePanzer company instead. If that's the model you got, then they're all like that. I think it's supposed to represent battle damage.
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Jun 3, 2010 01:41
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Thats actually the undamaged one. The damaged one has lost the top half of one shurzen, so its inline with the top of the tracks in a kind of jagged break. I might be able to plasticard it up but it would look horrible. It's broken like this: 
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Jun 3, 2010 02:11
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Tentacle Party posted:Thats actually the undamaged one. The damaged one has lost the top half of one shurzen, so its inline with the top of the tracks in a kind of jagged break. I might be able to plasticard it up but it would look horrible. Lord Commissar posted:I had the same issue with my Open Fire! box. I sent Battlefront an email and they sent me a replacement tank. Seriously. Send them an email, get a free tank. Use the "broken" one as an additional, veteran, battle-damaged tank (you'll probably need to make a gun out of a paperclip or brass tube, though, as they'll only send you the body of the tank).
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Jun 3, 2010 02:22
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I can't remember if the individual blisters have it, but if they're the same as the Platoon box then the StuG's come with a cast and welded gun mantled option, and the box has the howitzer option. If you can find a blister in your FLGS and there is two gun barrels in it then I highly reccomend you get it and talk to battlefront about a replacement body. At that point you'll have four StuG III, which is a full Assault Gun Platoon or 1 short of a full Panzer Platoon based around StuGs. Pretty good value for the price of it. [EDIT]Unboxing the platoon box: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/unboxing-stugiii-g-platoon-flames-war [/EDIT]
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Jun 3, 2010 04:23
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So I'm reading up on Ambush Alley and I find myself getting interested in it. How much is needed to run a few basic games of it? I've only ever played WH40k and Warmachine in the past, and have no experience with other miniatures. How much would some 15mm or 20mm figs for AA run? I tried checking the manufacturers in the OP but most of their websites are either confusing trainwrecks, don't have modern stuff, or both. 
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Jun 3, 2010 09:16
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A couple of WIP shots of a Langton French 120 gunner and a Sané Class 38 gunner. Fairly pleased with them for a first attempt, but reckon I can massively improve on the next batch I paint.   Needs antoher coat of matt on the ships (leaving the sea gloss) and obviously the masts arent finished yet! Serotonin fucked around with this message at 09:45 on Jun 3, 2010 |
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Jun 3, 2010 09:32
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Galaga Galaxian posted:So I'm reading up on Ambush Alley and I find myself getting interested in it. How much is needed to run a few basic games of it? I've only ever played WH40k and Warmachine in the past, and have no experience with other miniatures. How much would some 15mm or 20mm figs for AA run? I tried checking the manufacturers in the OP but most of their websites are either confusing trainwrecks, don't have modern stuff, or both. For 15mm moderns try Peter Pig, Old Glory or QRF. For 20mm try Liberation or Britannia. These figures are all fairly cheap. QRF package their troops in real world equivalent fireteams, and they charge £2 for 8 figures (2 fireteams). Vehicles are about £4 for a little one like a Hummer through to £6 for a M1 Abrams. Still pretty cheap compared to what you are used to paying! How many do you need- thats a good question. I play with USMC so I use no more than a squad of USMC in my games , so you are talking about 4 men per fire team, 3 fireteams plus officer in a squad, so no more than 13 'regular' troops. You might want to treat yourself to a couple of vehicles if you want to make the games interesting. I have a HumVee and a LAV25. As for insurgents we bought a couple of big bags of Old Glory Mujahadeen which were about £20 for 60 iirc. To be honest this was over kill and an impusle buy, as Ive never seen more than 30 insurgents on a table at once. Any more and things are proper hosed for the regular troops! You should be able to get enough troops on the table for a good szied game that will tkae about an hour or so to play for around £10-15 depending if you want to field some vehicles (you dont have to) Serotonin fucked around with this message at 09:51 on Jun 3, 2010 |
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Jun 3, 2010 09:41
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Serotonin posted:To be honest I am unsure if I will bother. I have rat lines that I will add on, but for now Im not going to do the riging. I may come back to it once they are all paitned. You might want to reconsider that. The rigging does not only make the ship look better. More importantly, proper rigging adds A LOT of structural integrity to the top heavy masts. I even dropped a ship to the floor once and the sails remained stuck on due to the rigging. If you just add bristles for the look of it it won't add that strength at all.
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Jun 3, 2010 13:06
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lilljonas posted:You might want to reconsider that. The rigging does not only make the ship look better. More importantly, proper rigging adds A LOT of structural integrity to the top heavy masts. I even dropped a ship to the floor once and the sails remained stuck on due to the rigging. If you just add bristles for the look of it it won't add that strength at all. Is there a decent (and free) guide out there somewhere for rigging? The guide in the Trafalgar book is okay, but sometimes it's confusing as gently caress. However, I'm not all that optimistic because, this being an historical wargame, I fear there won't be many web-savvy people who have done any decent write-ups with full color, high res pictures from multiple angles.
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Jun 3, 2010 13:23
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lilljonas posted:You might want to reconsider that. The rigging does not only make the ship look better. More importantly, proper rigging adds A LOT of structural integrity to the top heavy masts. I even dropped a ship to the floor once and the sails remained stuck on due to the rigging. If you just add bristles for the look of it it won't add that strength at all. Hmm. Well I will leave it to last when my fleet is fully painted then.
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Jun 3, 2010 13:57
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Lord Commissar posted:Is there a decent (and free) guide out there somewhere for rigging? Rod Langtons book is the best guide I have seen.
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Jun 3, 2010 13:57
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Serotonin posted:Rod Langtons book is the best guide I have seen. That's not free, but I guess if I want it done right....
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Jun 3, 2010 14:06
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Lord Commissar posted:That's not free, but I guess if I want it done right.... http://www.larsonweb.com/Transfer/Miniatures/Sail/NAPSHIPS.htm this guy has some stuff on it.
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Jun 3, 2010 14:13
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Lord Commissar posted:Is there a decent (and free) guide out there somewhere for rigging? I followed the Trafalgar guide and my experience was that it was confusing as gently caress until you had tried rigging one ship and made all the mistakes. Once I had some experience to back it up, it worked. But yeah, there's really not much good pages online about 1:1200 ships compared to all the hundreds of pages about tanks.
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Jun 3, 2010 14:58
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lilljonas posted:I followed the Trafalgar guide and my experience was that it was confusing as gently caress until you had tried rigging one ship and made all the mistakes. Once I had some experience to back it up, it worked. But yeah, there's really not much good pages online about 1:1200 ships compared to all the hundreds of pages about tanks. Sounds like a good project for you, lilljonas. :p We could even put it in the OP.
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Jun 3, 2010 15:17
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Lord Commissar posted:Sounds like a good project for you, lilljonas. :p I actually have an unpainted ship in a box somewhere. I just have to work my way through 200 6mm infantry and some planes first. 
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Jun 3, 2010 15:39
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Galaga Galaxian posted:So I'm reading up on Ambush Alley and I find myself getting interested in it. How much is needed to run a few basic games of it? I've only ever played WH40k and Warmachine in the past, and have no experience with other miniatures. How much would some 15mm or 20mm figs for AA run? I tried checking the manufacturers in the OP but most of their websites are either confusing trainwrecks, don't have modern stuff, or both.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:36
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All this Trafalgar stuff sounds awesome. I think I have an article in some relatively recent wargames mag that has good ideas for adjustments that make good house rules I can try to dig it out if any one is interested? Anyway sorry to bother you with more of the same but some progress shots of the Wespe with some rain streaking and MUD.    
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Jun 3, 2010 21:46
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big_g posted:All this Trafalgar stuff sounds awesome. I think I have an article in some relatively recent wargames mag that has good ideas for adjustments that make good house rules I can try to dig it out if any one is interested? It's in a Wargames Illustrated from about half a year ago or so. You really shouldn't play Trafalgar without the better collision damage rules and firing arc rules. It stops ridiculous kamikaze ship-of-the line combat, for once. The new weather rules are fine, if you want the randomness you can keep the roll the same but it really makes sense to apply weather changes in the NEXT turn, so you have some realistic time to take precautions.
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Jun 3, 2010 22:39
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