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How black will it get, though? I love charcoal because it can achieve such a rich, dark blackness you don't get with pencil or graphite. Is there any pencil (aside from a charcoal pencil) that has more of a matte finish?
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Jun 1, 2010 10:54
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with graphite it has more to do with how you apply it, you can get a bit more matte finish compared to the silvery shiny finish you get if you grind it into the paper but you have to do it more gently, and even then it won't look like coal - I usually stick with just regular compressed to avoid complications, graphite is just a pain in the rear end
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Jun 1, 2010 11:23
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Sorry this is unrelated but I don't want to make a new thread in SHSC or something. Mozilla Thunderbird - I accidentally archived all my emails in my inbox. How do I get them back? I can still see them in "All Mail" but it's mixed with my sent mail which is annoying. All I can find on google is how to archive the mail, not how to "unarchive" it 
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Jun 1, 2010 14:13
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Any recommendations for white-out when it comes to inking comics? I need to buy a bottle for my cartoon class next week.
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Jun 2, 2010 00:06
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I've got a question regarding video editing software. This is the first time I've ventured into CC, though - is this an OK thread to ask in?
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Jun 3, 2010 18:44
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Karthe posted:I've got a question regarding video editing software. This is the first time I've ventured into CC, though - is this an OK thread to ask in? Yes.
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Jun 3, 2010 21:36
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I'm finally looking to move away from Windows Movie Maker for my video editing needs, and I came across Sony's Vegas Movie Studio HD. I'm liking the program so far after tooling around in it for an hour or two, but playback on the timeline bothers me in that it continues to move forward in time even after it's passed the very last bit of film/sound that I'm working with. Is there a way to get the playback cursor to stop at the end when I'm finished previewing my video?
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Jun 3, 2010 22:13
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I don't use Vegas on any sort of regular basis, but depending on your interface settings your playhead should stop either at the end of your sequence or between in and out points. I'd check Vegas' help documents.
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Jun 3, 2010 22:31
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anaaki posted:Any recommendations for white-out when it comes to inking comics? I need to buy a bottle for my cartoon class next week. If you don't give a poo poo about archival quality then use a regular ol wite out pen (for things you'll just be saving as scans), but it'll yellow over time Otherwise, pro-white. It can be hard to control but is archival n junk like that. You could use nice gouache too. Same deal.
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Jun 4, 2010 01:46
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Can someone offer me some advice on going from pencil work to a finished digital piece, or point me to a decent tutorial? I'm great with pencils, but I seem to lose a lot in scanning and painting in Photoshop.
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Jun 4, 2010 11:10
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I've got an iBook G4 with a gross dirty keyboard because I'm apparently a disgusting pig. I want to wash the sumbitch in the sink. I know how to disconnect it and all that. There isn't anything in here that would be damaged if I get it wet and properly dry it before plugging it back into the computer, is there? These things go for over a hundred from any reputable seller. Obviously I don't want to break it.
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Jun 5, 2010 00:54
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When did this turn into SH/SC? (You can wash a keyboard as long as all power is removed, you let it dry for a good long time (like 2 days) and the keyboard doesn't have any capacitors or other components that hold a charge. Personally, I'd just use a Q-tip and canned air.)
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Jun 5, 2010 01:19
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Doctor Zero posted:When did this turn into SH/SC? It obviously didn't. If you really want to wash your iBook remove the keyboard and just wash that, iFixit should have a guide.
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Jun 5, 2010 17:40
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I looking around for some good free scriptwriting software, or at least one with a good trial so I can put something down I've been working on. Part of my search revealed a couple online repositories (scripped, and scriptbuddy). Are these any good? Are you really the only person who has access to the information in your script? Or, is there a good tutorial that can help me setup word to script write? EDIT: I just downloaded Celtx. Has anyone used that before? So far it looks to be what I was looking for. Stumpus fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jun 5, 2010 |
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Jun 5, 2010 20:04
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Stumpus posted:I looking around for some good free scriptwriting software, or at least one with a good trial so I can put something down I've been working on. Part of my search revealed a couple online repositories (scripped, and scriptbuddy). Are these any good? Are you really the only person who has access to the information in your script? CeltX is pretty much the standard for free screenwriting software. I don't personally care for it but it's fine. I don't know anything about scripped or scriptbuddy though, or even quite what you mean by "online repository." But if you want to back up your work securely, just get a flash drive or something. Scripts aren't that big.
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Jun 5, 2010 20:38
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suggestions for online business card printing? preferably someone who will work with me a bit over the phone
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Jun 7, 2010 00:59
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Beat. posted:suggestions for online business card printing? preferably someone who will work with me a bit over the phone What do you need worked with over the phone? Quality bang-for-buck wise I prefer uPrinting. They do offset at relatively low quantities. Just got in 3 each of 1,000 cards with rush shipping to my door for just over $100 and the quality is better than the last job I got from a local print shop. Edit: Lots of people will recommend Overnight. I would only go with them if you need spot UV as their process is simple and they do it for free. Quality wise I've been much happier (at better prices) with uPrinting. Also got some 11x17 posters from them that were simply outstanding. Not Memorable fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Jun 7, 2010 |
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Jun 7, 2010 17:20
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I could have sworn there was a thread in CC a while back for people asking advice on how to price gigs they got. Could I do this here?
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Jun 10, 2010 18:36
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Elephantgun posted:Quick one: It might not be the same, but I posted my own method for scanning linework several pages ago: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3043233&userid=121383#post366163283 A long time ago, there was a thread in here on painting that had some pretty awesome info for beginning painters on stuff like color palettes, brands, etc. However, it has since died and disappeared. Does anyone have any links to resources on color palettes and oil painting supplies? I'm looking to get started again, but only have enough money for a few colors. I can make an educated guess as to what colors to get, and I've done some research on brands and supplies, but the advice of the people in this thread who have been painting for quite a while would be really helpful so I don't waste a lot of money buying stuff I don't need.
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Jun 11, 2010 22:36
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Oh, whoops, I shoulda payed attention to the thread. Elephantgun, Duplicate the scanned layer, then run the filter (under 'other' on the drop down list) named 'High Pass' on the duplicate. On the window that popped up, adjust the slider bar so you can see the lines you scanned in against the gray. Then, once that's done, change the blending mode of the filtered layer to 'overlay.' For some cosmic reason it'll sharpen up- here's the difference on a spider I took a photo of. Original  Click here for the full 1031x940 image. After  Click here for the full 1031x940 image.
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Jun 11, 2010 23:02
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Whats that website that had a simple decent looking paint program that emulated brushstrokes and texture? It was linked from GBS awhile ago and I lost it.
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Jun 14, 2010 05:17
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This probably links into moss piglet's question. What's the best free/cheap program to get into digital inking? I have GIMP, Inkscape, and Paint.net all installed and everything, but I wanted to pick one program and stick with it. I'd probably be going for a comic-ish style, like Jimmy Palmiotti or Mike Mignola. Unfortunately, all my Googling resulted in a bunch of tutorials for the different programs on applying filters whereas I want to learn freehand. I have a tablet and I'd be willing to plunk down for ArtRage if that's the best one. I just wanted to pick one program and hit it hard to get the basics down, then expand.
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Jun 14, 2010 08:10
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CloseFriend posted:This probably links into moss piglet's question. What's the best free/cheap program to get into digital inking? I have GIMP, Inkscape, and Paint.net all installed and everything, but I wanted to pick one program and stick with it. I'd probably be going for a comic-ish style, like Jimmy Palmiotti or Mike Mignola. Unfortunately, all my Googling resulted in a bunch of tutorials for the different programs on applying filters whereas I want to learn freehand. I have a tablet and I'd be willing to plunk down for ArtRage if that's the best one. I just wanted to pick one program and hit it hard to get the basics down, then expand. Inkscape is probably your best bet. For comic style inking, a vector program will give you great results and complete control over your line quality. The learning curve is extremely steep though (it's just not an intuitive process for most people) but do realize that you will get it eventually.
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Jun 14, 2010 14:42
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gmc9987 posted:
I was getting ready to post this too. I want to get started with watercolour again but I'm at a loss as to what the best place to get my materials. zekezero fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Jun 20, 2010 |
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Jun 19, 2010 02:28
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This isn't a technical question but I guess it's fine to put here.. I've always been terrible at drawing. The only way I can make something resemble the object/picture/whatever I'm copying is to erase and re-do it time and time again. I'd like to work at getting better to the point where I can draw little pictures of whatever.. but will it just be a waste time? Basically, can someone who is naturally bad at drawing improve enough to be good?
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Jun 20, 2010 00:20
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kinkster posted:This isn't a technical question but I guess it's fine to put here.. The most important thing to do is to just draw, keep drawing as much as possible. Don't worry if something (or everything at first) turns out looking a bit poor, just redo or move on. If you want to read about things that could help you draw better, you might want to have a look at some of the Loomis books, haven't myself yet other than flipped through one and gazed a bit at another. http://alexhays.com/loomis/ is the only place I know they're at. I've also heard good things about Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain. There also is (or was, might've slipped into the archives by now) a thread on learning to draw, it should have helpful things in it. Besides, if you enjoy drawing (and I assume you do), how is it a waste of time? 
Alakala fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Jun 22, 2010 |
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Jun 20, 2010 05:01
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Would this be the thread for soliciting software recommendations? For my job, I occasionally need to draw out map-like things, like this. Usually very basic stuff: nothing that I would need intensive CAD for. I just need a very basic drawing program that can handle the following: - Can have various line styles with various weights - Good implementation of text - Relatively easy/user friendly (this is a lesser priority than the other two) - Windows 7 compatibility (and preferably XP too) I don't care too much about color. Adobe Illustrator would be the obvious choice, which I've used it before, but I feel like that would be extreme overkill for my purposes. I don't need it to be freeware, but I don't feel like spending the money for Illustrator when I won't be using it all that often.
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Jun 21, 2010 04:56
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JimTheSarcastic posted:Would this be the thread for soliciting software recommendations? For my job, I occasionally need to draw out map-like things, like this. Usually very basic stuff: nothing that I would need intensive CAD for. Inkscape is an open source vector illustration program. However, despite how much I hate paying for things /love the open source ideal, it is not even close to Illustrator in terms of ease of use and robustness. But if you aren't doing anything that complicated it should work fine.
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Jun 21, 2010 17:00
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vonnegutt posted:Inkscape is an open source vector illustration program. However, despite how much I hate paying for things /love the open source ideal, it is not even close to Illustrator in terms of ease of use and robustness. But if you aren't doing anything that complicated it should work fine.
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Jun 22, 2010 01:27
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kinkster posted:This isn't a technical question but I guess it's fine to put here.. Drawing is a skill that simply takes practice. You may not have the natural talent that others do, but it is possible to train yourself. In order to do that, try drawing constantly. Buy one or two books on drawing (not a dozen you'll never read). It depends what sort of drawing skill you're looking to develop, but I would actually recommend one of the kid friendly books, like one of the ones for superheroes. They teach a variety of simple techniques, and generally will have sections showing very very very basic anatomy, facial expressions, drawing objects like cars and buildings, shading and shadows, and perspective. If you spent an hour a night going through the basic exercises in a book like that, you'd see an improvement in just a week.
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Jun 22, 2010 01:45
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I want to sculpt a larger-than-life head with full fine skin/facial detail on the outside, but be thin-shelled and hollow. So far I'm thinking fiberglass might be the best idea, but I have a few questions: 1. can fiber glass inside a plaster (or whatever else) mold create fine details and smooth surface? 2. what would be a good material for sculpting the master? I suppose I could use a giant mass of clay, but that's a lot of clay for a huge head... I'd be fine building an armature of some kind, but can you just put clay over top of that? 3. any other ideas for better materials/techniques to do this?
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Jun 22, 2010 03:21
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My friend's niece drew a line-drawing portrait of him on her iPad, producing a 748x748 .jpg that I'd like to print out and frame for him. I was hoping for something in the 3x3" to 5x5" range, but I don't know where I'd go to get it printed or what kind of stock would be right. He loves this portrait, so aiming for decades of life would be good. I'll spend $ on this, but if there's not a big difference, cheaper is preferred. If there's no good chain store to do this at, I'm in Oakland, CA and would do this anywhere in the bay area. Recommendations on shops and stock?
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Jun 23, 2010 18:43
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bisonbison posted:My friend's niece drew a line-drawing portrait of him on her iPad, producing a 748x748 .jpg that I'd like to print out and frame for him. 748x748 is pretty small. Commonly accepted print-size for images is something like 300 dpi, so the image is going to end up about 2.5x2.5. However, it can probably be scaled up to a small degree, especially since it's more of a gift for a doting father rather than a proof for a picky client. Going over 5x5 might be problematic, you'll probably start seeing individual pixels. As far as stock goes, any acid-free archival paper will work. I would suggest going to Kinko's or another print shop and asking about what they offer. You'll be able to get a feel for the paper and so forth. One word of advice: glossy paper is going to show color more intensely than a matte paper. Personally I prefer matte for art, but I always have to take into account that it will dull the colors slightly. It shouldn't cost too much (you can probably get several copies for ~$20), so maybe have some prints made on a couple different papers, or at a couple different sizes so you can personally decide if the print quality is high enough. Pricing is going to be determined by the size of the image, paper stock, and type of printing. I would opt for inkjet over color laser, it's easier to match colors truly on inkjet.
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Jun 23, 2010 19:44
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Dearest arty friends: I'm teaching at a local art camp for 6-10 year olds next month and they want to do a clay project. However, we don't have the time or a materials available to do a kiln-fired clay project. Any suggestions for an air-dry clay that will dry quickly (like, overnight?) that can also be painted with tempera or acrylic?
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Jun 23, 2010 21:29
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anaaki posted:Dearest arty friends: If you have a kitchen, you can bake up Sculpy in an oven pretty quickly.
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Jun 24, 2010 19:47
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Not Memorable posted:If you have a kitchen, you can bake up Sculpy in an oven pretty quickly. Unfortunately not. It's at a VFW hall, and it'll be 25 kids, which would mean 25 projects to bake.
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Jun 26, 2010 04:14
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anaaki posted:Unfortunately not. It's at a VFW hall, and it'll be 25 kids, which would mean 25 projects to bake. Maybe some Victorian salt clay? It will dry in two days at room temperature, but if you're in a hot place and leave it in the sun, it might go faster. http://www.make-stuff.com/kids/clay.html It's the last clay mentioned on the page.
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Jun 26, 2010 04:27
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I've been doing a series of collages. They're random books and magazine cutouts on a masonite panel. I have been using mod-podge to glue the actual elements to the board, and upon completion, I glaze the entire surface with a layer of thinned mod-podge. Buuut, it looks really lovely. Mod-podge makes a great glue but it does not work well as a finishing glaze. What should I use to seal my collages? I want something matte, that dries evenly and doesn't bubble or ripple or yellow over time.
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Jun 26, 2010 07:18
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jediBAMF posted:I've been doing a series of collages. They're random books and magazine cutouts on a masonite panel. For finishing you can try different things. Acrylic gel (not acrylic medium) in whatever finish you want, in this case matte to get really even coats I water it down and do several thin coats. You can also use the gels as glue, the matte can be good because its less eye catching than some kinds of glues. This is nice because depending on the brush you get texture to your finish, or no texture if you dont want. There are various aerosol based acrylic matte finishes, in varying degrees of quality (krylon makes one, but theres like 3 or 4 big brands.) You can also get damar in matte, which is different. Available in spray or liquid bottle, damar is oil based so you can never add any more acrylic on top after you finish it. I used to use gloss damar to finish some of the stencil work I did on canvases or board, looked great. YMMV.
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Jun 26, 2010 09:53
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anaaki posted:Unfortunately not. It's at a VFW hall, and it'll be 25 kids, which would mean 25 projects to bake. Mm. Well, still might not work but keep in mind you CAN put more than one piece of sculpy in the oven at a time, you know. Just keep the projects small.
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Jun 27, 2010 17:43
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