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Sirotan posted:Its so sad. What's more sad is that it's already overrun with morons who think it's not a big deal because they're "just guinea pigs."  On a lighter note, I'm visiting my parents this weekend and I get to see their cute piggies. This time is the time I am definitely going to get my parents to build a better cage so they can both live together -- or at least, try. Can anyone give me advice on cage-building? Also, in regards to bonding, one of the pigs is a few months old and the other a few years. The older one humps the crap out of the poor little guy. I know this is a dominance thing and they're working out their issues, but the poor little guy clearly hates it and tries to escape. I'm pretty sure I should just let them be as long as there's no vicious fighting, but it makes me sad because little pig is distressed. 
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May 28, 2010 18:26
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Serella posted:What's more sad is that it's already overrun with morons who think it's not a big deal because they're "just guinea pigs." I tried my best. Luckily I've gotten a few reinforcements from PI.Serella posted:On a lighter note, I'm visiting my parents this weekend and I get to see their cute piggies. This time is the time I am definitely going to get my parents to build a better cage so they can both live together -- or at least, try. Can anyone give me advice on cage-building? Really the best guide you are going to find is here: http://guineapigcages.com/howto.htm This is exactly how I made my cage(s) with the only difference being I use a hot glue gun instead of tape to connect the sides of the coroplast. As far as pig behavior goes, its best to just leave them alone to sort out their social hierarchy. If they aren't fighting to the point of drawing blood then ultimately they are fine. The only other thing you can do is separate them permanently which really isn't good for anyone, pigs or owners.
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May 28, 2010 18:44
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I got a new camera that can take decent macro shots so I want to share some of Bitey. 
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May 29, 2010 00:53
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That guinea pig poisoning story is so sad. What kind of sick bastard would do that? It doesn't help that a bunch of jackass goons in the thread are making light of it. I'm hardly one to be thin skinned, but posting pictures of cuy crosses the line.
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May 29, 2010 02:23
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I think it's a little ridiculous to be offended by seeing a picture of a cooked animal that is eaten in many parts of the world, but I agree that the thread has gotten pretty ugly.
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May 29, 2010 02:27
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I know in my mind that it's silly to be offended by it, but I simply can't help but feel disturbed when I see a picture of a guinea pig dead or suffering. I don't even blink if it's a picture of a human though.
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May 29, 2010 02:29
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Awesome Kristin posted:I got a new camera that can take decent macro shots so I want to share some of Bitey. MORE PICTURES So this is Peanut.  "Oh please, just leave me alone," he thinks.  Probably because we do things like this...  Usually we just torment it with food that's slightly outside its reach.       I don't think he likes us very much...  But Dusty likes us just fine.  And when he sees us bothering the hamster he says PAY ATTENTION TO MEEEEEEEEE  Wish we had a nice close-up camera like Kristin. **No hamsters were harmed in the making of this post.
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May 29, 2010 03:56
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Awww. Makes me miss my chinchilla. Sadly I had to let my mom take care of her. 
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May 29, 2010 04:24
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RazorBunny posted:I think it's a little ridiculous to be offended by seeing a picture of a cooked animal that is eaten in many parts of the world, but I agree that the thread has gotten pretty ugly. I was annoyed when I saw it because obviously the person posted it like "HAR HAR DED GINNY PIGS," when it has nothing to do with what happened. It's one thing when animals being raised for food, and another thing completely when animals are killed in a terrible way for no reason. Typical immature GBS. And omg, so jealous of all the people with chinchillas. They're just fat little balls of adorable. It's ridiculous how cute they are!
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May 29, 2010 22:30
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Awesome Kristin posted:I got a new camera that can take decent macro shots so I want to share some of Bitey. Bitey is adorable 
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May 30, 2010 02:59
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Aww I just love Bitey's awesome hairdoo! I have a question about sneezing mice. I brought my 2 girls home yesterday and today they seem to be sneezing rather frequently. Maybe I just didn't notice yesterday at the pet store cause it was rather loud, but I'm concerned that they could have an upper respiratory issue. Anyone have advice? Other than the sneezing they're active and curious and eating well (they like fruit but aren't so keen on bread, and they loooove birdseed). I'm trying to get them to stay still for photos with no luck. I'll hopefully have some to share tomorrow.
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May 30, 2010 04:50
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I took some more Bitey pics for you.  
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May 30, 2010 05:53
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Awesome Kristin posted:Oh that teeny nose! I need to find some props for taking cute robo pictures stat.
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May 30, 2010 10:11
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He looks like a scrapper with those little torn-up ears of his
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May 30, 2010 20:59
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I'm considering getting a pair of chinchillas and have a couple of questions: 1. High maintenance cost of rodents was mentioned - could someone give an average monthly guesstimate? 2. I do save some $8000 a year through sheer frugality, but I don't feel like adding over $200 to monthly expenses. 3. Could someone recommend a breeder? Should I go for a local one? I live near Syracuse, NY. 4. Why are females significantly more expensive than the males? 5. Is there any difference between breeds of various colors or is it just a color mutation? 6. Are they disturbed by loud sound? I play several instruments and would like to continue doing so. I can synch my schedule to that of the pets if need be.
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May 31, 2010 04:51
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pokie posted:I'm considering getting a pair of chinchillas and have a couple of questions: I only have secondhand chinchilla experience since I don't have my own, but I can do my best to answer a couple of those. 2. I really don't think it'll cost you $200 a month to take care of a pair of chinchillas. My sister's goes through a bag of food every couple of months or so because he only eats a tiny amount a day, like a shot glass's worth. Chinchillas have fragile digestive systems and need a lot of fiber, so they can't eat just pellets. Things like timothy hay and some small treats might set you back, but a bag of pellets can last you quite a while. Aside from potential vet bills, your start-up cost will probably be the most you'll spend on a chinchilla at once. (And don't forget to set aside some money for said potential vet bills, as well as finding a good exotic vet in your area.) 4. My guess would be because they're the babymakers. v  v5. It's just color mutation. Some are rarer than others, but colors like mosaics and standards aren't different breeds. 6. As with most small animals and rodents, yes. Imagine being as small as a rodent and hearing the loud boom of a drum kit, but having nowhere to run to escape it. Not very fun. Sifl doesn't mind TV or music, but he doesn't listen to anything louder. As well as syncing up your schedule, it would also be a good idea to play your instruments in a different room than where your chinchilla is.
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May 31, 2010 18:22
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I'd like to add that you should do as much research as possible. From what I've seen there is a lot of misinformation out there and even pet stores will tell you things that just aren't true. Don't buy the "chinchilla food" from stores unless it is only pellets. Any of the foods with corn and peas and random junk in it is just terrible for chinchillas and can cause nasty digestive problems. Also, as with any rodent, watch what you put in the cage for odor control. Any woods with oils can harm their respiratory systems. I don't remember the safe ones but I'm sure someone here knows. I would try the paper looking stuff first, but watch if they eat it or not. Another thing is plastic. Tons of stores sell those cages with plastic tubes (for ferrets) as well as those chinchilla igloos and other toys. They chew like crazy. The hay you give them helps a bit, but for the most part you need to get sticks for them to chew on. If there's plastic in the cage they will probably chew on that and possibly get it in their system. I'd stay away from plastic. There are plenty of wood and chinchilla safe toys/hideouts to choose from. I'd also not leave the dust bath in the cage all the time. This keeps them from chewing the plastic, as well as from bathing too much and getting really dry and dirty. When choosing hammocks and stuff make sure it's fleece sewn by someone who knows it will be for chinchillas. If it is cotton an not made properly, they can chew it up and ingest the string and fibers from it and cause problems. And about multiples. As with any rodent, definitely try to get them already bonded. Chinchillas are picky and there's no guarantee they will like each other. So get them together or be prepared to have two cages and two different playtimes. They may not like really loud noises but they love to see what's going on in the house and get bored quickly. If you have them in the livingroom or where they can see things going on they'll be happier. As long as it's not loud all day every day since they're mostly nocturnal. Mine used to love watching tv and would bark at me if she got bored or lonely. Sorry if I went over obvious things or if you already did all that research. Just want to make sure more chinchillas are happy. There are too many impulse pet store chinchillas that are miserable in one story super pet cages eating junk food.
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May 31, 2010 21:22
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As for bedding, I'd stick with Carefresh, aspen, or worst-case scenario, kiln-dried pine. If you choose pine, make absolutely sure it's kiln-dried, as that gets rid of the phenols in the soft wood that can be harmful to your pet's health. Absolutely NEVER use cedar, that poo poo is very bad for animals.
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May 31, 2010 21:46
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Thanks, everyone. I would still like to know about breeders if anyone knows about them.Awesome Kristin posted:Sorry if I went over obvious things or if you already did all that research. Just want to make sure more chinchillas are happy. There are too many impulse pet store chinchillas that are miserable in one story super pet cages eating junk food. No problem, buddy. I've had cats since I was a kid, and have kept rather exotic tarantulas for almost a decade (https://wi.somethingawful.com/96/9628676fd6198b59a37ff1038a3c783f40847c13.jpg). I am selling them now since crickets are a pain in the rear end to get in my area and they are pretty hard to move while I keep moving relatively often. Anyway, I am considering getting a pair of baby chinchillas now, and I have done some reading on them to the best of my ability.
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Jun 1, 2010 07:14
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pokie posted:
Your biggest expense will be startup- the chinchillas themselves, the cage, exercise wheel, food, toys, ect. It could be anywhere from 200-400, probably. Standard chinchillas usually start at $75 and mutations can be as much as $250. I would guess my monthly expense for two chins is around $10-15 because I bulk order timothy hay online. I get 25ish lbs for around $50.00 including shipping. The hay you find in pet stores is price-gouged all to hell and is terrible quality once you've seen nice timothy. I usually only order hay twice a year, as it lasts forever if you let it breathe. A ten lb bag of pellet food usually lasts me two months between both of my chins. pokie posted:3. Could someone recommend a breeder? Should I go for a local one? I live near Syracuse, NY. I would only recommend adopting chinchillas from a local breeder. Like Awesome Kristin said, pet stores are largely ignorant of proper chinchilla husbandry, and typically do not provide information about the animals' age or family/genetic history, which is important if you want a healthy chinchilla that hasn't been traumatized for most of its life. This goes a long way toward finding an animal with a normal, malleable temperament that can bond with you later down the road. Search this directory by NY, and you'll see a few listings. Check out the websites. http://www.chinchillaclub.com/breeder/ pokie posted:4. Why are females significantly more expensive than the males? I don't know but I'd guess Part-Time Robot is right. pokie posted:5. Is there any difference between breeds of various colors or is it just a color mutation? Mostly just color, but I will add that fur quality- and possibly overall genetic health- is usually much greater in the Standard Agouti coats. I have a Standard and a medium Tan (cross between beige and ebony), and the Standard's fur and body build are much nicer. That said, the Tan was my first, and I enjoy his personality more. That will vary greatly among individuals, though. pokie posted:6. Are they disturbed by loud sound? I play several instruments and would like to continue doing so. I can synch my schedule to that of the pets if need be. I'm going to disagree with this. They will become accustomed to whatever noise becomes routine in their environment. Mine have no problem with the vacuum or loud, bass-heavy music. They can sleep obliviously through both. That said, if you play drums or something in a room so small that it hurts your own ears, it will hurt theirs. Chinchillas are actually used in hearing studies because they have nearly the same range of hearing we do. ------------------------------ Other things to consider: They can live 10-15 (maybe even 20) years. It's a big commitment. Are you prepared to always have air conditioning below 75F? Most don't like to be held, but will eventually come around to letting you pet their bellies and under their chins. It can take months and months to bond with them because they're so independent. While chinchillas are nearly hypoallergenic themselves due to their dense fur, you might want to figure out if you're allergic to their bath dust and timothy hay first. I think those are fairly common allergens. I will second getting a pre-bonded same-sex pair. They are picky and chinchilla introductions are nerve-wracking. If space, longevity, cost, temperature, or the chinchilla's standoffish nature is a deterrent, I'd recommend looking at degus! They are fabulous rodents, and much more sociable toward humans. I had one for eight years named Dagget, and he'd ride on my shoulder and always make an excited high-pitched squeal when I came home. Here's a blurry Max:  And Osker:  PS: I just started a chinchilla Tumblr! http://littlechincha.tumblr.com/ tl;dr: There are a lot of things to consider and research is important!
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Jun 2, 2010 06:56
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Eeeeeeeee Max & Osker are so cute, I want to cuddle them to death. Do chinchillas like being handled and cuddled? Hoplosternum fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jun 2, 2010 |
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Jun 2, 2010 07:13
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Hoplosternum posted:Eeeeeeeee Max & Osker are so cute, I want to cuddle them to death. That all comes down to individual chin personality.
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Jun 2, 2010 07:59
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Hoplosternum posted:Eeeeeeeee Max & Osker are so cute, I want to cuddle them to death. It's a highly individual thing, but as a species they tend not to. The fosters I've dealt with have been very happy to receive chin scratches and face rubs, but if you attempted to pick them up they'd start barking at you and one lovely puffball would then try to spray urine at me.
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Jun 2, 2010 12:03
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My chins will let us rub/scratch their ears, chin/jaw, chest and belly, and they love that poo poo so much. They're not big on cuddling, AT ALL, though if we're holding them we can pet them to sleep on our chests. They're nothing like a dog (or my limited experience with a ferret) when it comes to attention. And when we let them out to play they don't really wanna go back in the cage, but they don't wanna play with us so much as with each other... It can be frustrating not to see any blatant affection from the chins, but i know they love us, and they're cute as hell.
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Jun 2, 2010 16:49
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Ishkibibble_Fish posted:If space, longevity, cost, temperature, or the chinchilla's standoffish nature is a deterrent, I'd recommend looking at degus! They are fabulous rodents, and much more sociable toward humans. I had one for eight years named Dagget, and he'd ride on my shoulder and always make an excited high-pitched squeal when I came home. Great! Thanks for the very detailed response. I have no problems with longevity and independence. I have outlived a couple of my spiders that lived for 7 years and I never really interacted with them physically. Granted, chins are a different story, but I can totally handle display-only pets, so that's no problem. As for my music, all my instruments are electric, so I can use headphones, although they sound much better at moderate volume when amplified, which I prefer. I've got some follow up questions: 1. What diet do you use? Which websites do you you order pellets/hay from? 2. Is it easy to relocate chins? 3. If I get an auto feeder and leave conditioning on, can they survive on their own for a week or so? I do travel sometimes and there is no guarantee that I can get a pet sitter.
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Jun 2, 2010 19:16
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pokie posted:3. If I get an auto feeder and leave conditioning on, can they survive on their own for a week or so? I do travel sometimes and there is no guarantee that I can get a pet sitter. No. There's really no way to autofeed hay, which needs to be the bulk of their diet. You can't just load them up and hope they don't run out. Sudden dietary changes like a week of having only pellets could put them into GI stasis. That can be treated easily if you catch it fast enough, but if you're gone for a week you're just going to come home and find a dead chin. Additionally, these are very active animals who aren't going to sit quietly for a week. The longer they're left alone and unable to engage in their usual exercise routines, the more likely they are to try escaping their cage or engaging in other displacement behaviors which could end up with them being trapped or injured. If they knock their water bottle off the cage while you're at work, that's one thing; you'll be home in 8-12 hours to fix it. But a week? All I can think of are how many ways that could end badly. However, most exotics vet who see chins also offer boarding. Oxbow and Kleenmama's Hayloft are the two best sites for hay and pellets.
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Jun 2, 2010 19:41
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If you're going to be gone for that long at a time I would definitely recommend having someone knowledgeable come by every day or so to let them out for play time. Chins need at a minimum an hour a day outside their cage to run around and play. They get bored pretty easily, plus you want them to be getting good exercise. As for travel, I would use cat carriers to bring them by car anywhere. And you have to make sure the temperature is around 75F or less since they can overhead really easily. You might not have to order the pellets online if you can find a feed store near you. Sometimes they have big bags of food for good prices. Mazuri is the brand everyone recommends but Oxbow is good as well. Never get Kaytee brand anything. They are just horrible when it comes to quality. Also, unless you have a good specialty pet store I would order the dust online. The stuff you see at petsmart is too coarse and doesn't clean them very well. Blue Cloud dust is pretty much the standard when it comes to chins. This place has the brands you need so you can see prices of stuff. http://www.chinworld.com/
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Jun 2, 2010 19:43
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pokie posted:
I feed Mazuri chinchilla diet because I can sometimes find it in local Petsmarts. (I live in the Chicago area). Oxbow is good too, and you could also order either online; it's probably cheaper like the hay. I buy timothy from Kleenmama's Hayloft: http://www.kmshayloft.com. The 3rd cut is the best, and actually all that my boys will eat now, picky bastards. Blue Cloud dust IS awesome. There's a very palpable difference between that and the gritty, silica-containing Kaytee one sold in pet stores, which just doesn't clean their fur well. I just ordered dust and a bunch of supplies from http://www.qualitymutationchinchillas.com/. They have a huge selection of awesome stuff and a good reputation among hobby breeders and 'chin people.' They are located near Portland, though, so shipping could be expensive, depending. pokie posted:2. Is it easy to relocate chins? I've done it twice- one 800 mile relocation and a more recent 1,400 mile relocation. It is certainly not easy, but very doable. It just takes planning. You have to make sure your vehicle will stay cool, and the animals will remain out of the sun. If your trip takes more than one day, you have to figure out where you'll spend the night(s). There are pet-friendly motels but I don't have any experience with them. There is also transporting the cage, which was my biggest hassle, as it was not easily broken down. Honestly, both of mine instantly pass out in the car for the entire trip, and aren't disturbed by music at all, which is nice. I wouldn't recommend shipping/ flying with them for any reason. pokie posted:3. If I get an auto feeder and leave conditioning on, can they survive on their own for a week or so? I do travel sometimes and there is no guarantee that I can get a pet sitter. I would say a week is too long. A number of things could go wrong. If you have really good leak-free water bottles and a way to keep a lot of hay off of the floor of the cage, three days is very doable. After that, I'd say they'd really need out-of-cage exercise. Mine have been just fine when I left for three days, but it's always best to have someone you trust check in on them. Hoplosternum posted:Eeeeeeeee Max & Osker are so cute, I want to cuddle them to death. Totally depends on the individual, but if you work with them, they'll come around. Max was super shy as a kit, but now loves being scratched on the head/ears/neck/chin/belly. He will lift his front paw and practically twist all the way around to give me better access to his belly. Many don't like being touched on their backs because of the instinctual prey response- that's where birds would grab them, I guess. I would say both of mine tolerate being held or cuddled, but do not love it. They'd just rather be running around on the floor, and I think this is true of most chinchillas. ------ Another resource: the forums at chins n' hedgies http://www.chins-n-hedgies.com/forums/ are absolutely terrible but there is a practically limitless knowledge-base there. Great for general research or to get cage set-up ideas. Many breeders also post there and sell supplies, so you could even look in the classifieds.
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Jun 2, 2010 21:18
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The website that Ishkibibble_Fish posted is where I learned everything I needed to know, as well as found a breeder to get my chinchilla from. I'd recommend looking at toys and accessories that the people on there put in the classifieds. I got all kinds of neat packages of random toys for Boo, as well as her favorite thing ever. Her fleece tube. She wouldn't touch her hammock after I got this for her. 
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Jun 2, 2010 21:41
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I need a fleece tube asap, our chins like the hammocks, but its always so awkward for them to get in and out...that looks perfect.
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Jun 2, 2010 23:30
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Oh no one's mentioned this but if you get males, be prepared to see them... well.. pleasuring themselves.
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Jun 3, 2010 00:07
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Awesome Kristin posted:Oh no one's mentioned this but if you get males, be prepared to see them... well.. pleasuring themselves. I have read that this is almost always self-grooming to prevent or dislodge hair rings. Either way, yes, it's disturbing. More disturbing is that if you get males you'll have to perform periodic hair ring checks on them yourself. Severe hair rings can actually lead to death, but I think that's pretty rare. Mine do a good job of keeping themselves clean, but I have manually removed one hair ring. Females are more likely to spray urine at you, though. Males have the capability, but generally do not. So it's really a trade off: creepy peen maintenance vs unexpected urine assault.
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Jun 3, 2010 00:53
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The females get all lovey and frisky when they're in heat, haha!
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Jun 3, 2010 01:00
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Ishkibibble_Fish posted:Either way, yes, it's disturbing. It's hard to beat watching guinea pigs contort themselves so they can eat a poop directly out of their butt. Plus, with males, the same-sex indiscriminate dominance humping sometimes literally leads to someone getting hosed in the ear.
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Jun 3, 2010 02:19
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Sweets, it seems like there are a lot of good resources out there for me to peruse. I am moving in two months, which should be enough time to conclude how serious I am about this. One last question: somebody told me that chins have quite a smell to them - is that true?
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Jun 3, 2010 04:32
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pokie posted:Sweets, it seems like there are a lot of good resources out there for me to peruse. I am moving in two months, which should be enough time to conclude how serious I am about this. No. If you keep the cage clean they smell like...nothing. They smell the least of any rodents I've ever kept.
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Jun 3, 2010 05:11
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Speaking of which, how do you clean the cage and how often?
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Jun 3, 2010 05:26
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pokie posted:Speaking of which, how do you clean the cage and how often? I'd just empty the shavings or whatever you use for bedding and replace it completely. Probably best to do it once a week or so but you can usually tell when it looks like it's getting too messy or there's too much poop. They poop a lot.
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Jun 3, 2010 05:32
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Awesome Kristin posted:I'd just empty the shavings or whatever you use for bedding and replace it completely. Probably best to do it once a week or so but you can usually tell when it looks like it's getting too messy or there's too much poop. Your post works... well with your avatar. Are the shavings pretty cheap to replace? I remember that wooden substrate for spiders got a little pricey even if I shopped around.
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Jun 3, 2010 05:49
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This stuff works well as long as they don't eat it. I used wood shavings and it wasn't expensive at all. If they pee in one corner then you can clean that spot up more often than the full cage and just add a handfull of new bedding to that and you might be able to put off cleaning the whole cage a bit longer but the poop really builds up.
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Jun 3, 2010 06:05
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