BMW Thread: this is the bmw thread. we drive blue cars

havelock · # ? Jun 2, 2010 21:54

Znyp posted:

They don't fold down completely flat, no. I guess you can stomp them down abit more than in this random picture, but not a whole lot.

Can't you get the 1-series at all in the US?

Ok, I'll try to reseat the cable again. It's brand new though, but maybe it's bad.

That's pretty flat

I'd love to have the 1 series as an option against a WRX/STi, just like I wish Audi would bring the S4 Avant over so I could have performance and about 30mpg highway.

Adbot · # ? Jun 6, 2024 11:07

ozziegt · # ? Jun 2, 2010 22:06

wolrah posted:

The issue wasn't wheel to rotor, it was rotor to hub assembly after the wheels were already off. The wheels were a bit rusted on, but those never have much of a chance since I switch them out twice a year. I do need to take the rust off the hub though, I just hit them with brake cleaner, applied a thin coating of antiseize, then put the rotors on. Hopefully one of my inverters will run a Dremel properly so I don't have to go buy a manual wire brush.

I found this little tidbit upon some Googling.

quote:

Now the fun part, where we get to look like a pro mechanic. Grab the nearest metal hammer, baby sledge, or (in my case) a dead blow hammer, and hit the rotor once at the 3 o'clock position, then at the 9 o'clock, followed by six, and 12. If you're lucky, the rotor will brake away from the hub after the six o-clock hit. This is the way the BMW techs do it, and it works. Note that using anything but a dead-blow hammer will likely damage the rotor and make it unsuitable for reuse.

CornHolio · # ? Jun 3, 2010 00:27

So, my oil pressure light started flickering again over the weekend.

Some history: I found out last year that the PO had pulled the oil pressure light from the cluster. Upon replacing it, I found that when it was hot out, and the engine was fully warmed up, the light would sometimes flicker at idle.

I freaked out at first, thinking it was my oil pump going bad. It's not that though. As it turns out, the wire leading to the oil pressure switch on the back of the filter housing had lost a chunk of insulation against the block. It must have only happened when the block was hot or something, because it seems it was achieving a slight ground against the block and completing the circuit, but only slightly and only sometimes.

I put some tape around the wire, and lo, it worked great. Didn't see that light for some time.

It started up again over the weekend. Today I tore the airbox off and sure enough, the tape had come off. I put some fresh tape on there (which doesn't stick worth a drat) and it's acting perfectly again. This weekend I'm going to loom the son of a bitch up with some small .25" loom we have at work. I might tie wrap it against something to keep it away from the block, too.

What sucks is, I lost the little metal retainer that goes on the harness plug. It's in my engine compartment somewhere but my metal bendy picker-upper thing couldn't find it. I hope it doesn't come loose. :ohdear:

Has anybody else seen anything like this? It looks like that bit of harness is an offshoot of some larger harness that runs under the intake manifold, so replacing the harness is out of the question.

BloodBag · # ? Jun 3, 2010 01:16

CornHolio posted:

So, my oil pressure light started flickering again over the weekend.

Some history: I found out last year that the PO had pulled the oil pressure light from the cluster. Upon replacing it, I found that when it was hot out, and the engine was fully warmed up, the light would sometimes flicker at idle.

I freaked out at first, thinking it was my oil pump going bad. It's not that though. As it turns out, the wire leading to the oil pressure switch on the back of the filter housing had lost a chunk of insulation against the block. It must have only happened when the block was hot or something, because it seems it was achieving a slight ground against the block and completing the circuit, but only slightly and only sometimes.

I put some tape around the wire, and lo, it worked great. Didn't see that light for some time.

It started up again over the weekend. Today I tore the airbox off and sure enough, the tape had come off. I put some fresh tape on there (which doesn't stick worth a drat) and it's acting perfectly again. This weekend I'm going to loom the son of a bitch up with some small .25" loom we have at work. I might tie wrap it against something to keep it away from the block, too.

What sucks is, I lost the little metal retainer that goes on the harness plug. It's in my engine compartment somewhere but my metal bendy picker-upper thing couldn't find it. I hope it doesn't come loose.

Has anybody else seen anything like this? It looks like that bit of harness is an offshoot of some larger harness that runs under the intake manifold, so replacing the harness is out of the question.

Could you maybe cut, re-solder, and heat-shrink that bad boy?

Oh god, did I just open up the soldering vs. crimping debate up itt?

CornHolio · # ? Jun 3, 2010 01:20

PurpleFender posted:

Could you maybe cut, re-solder, and heat-shrink that bad boy?

Oh god, did I just open up the soldering vs. crimping debate up itt?

There isn't much room to get in there, at least not without taking the alternator out. I did think about it though. I know people that could probably do that.

I'm going to try the loom because it's cheap and simple and logically it should do the trick. There's some kind of vacuum hose nearby and I'm going to put a very loose tie wrap connecting the two so the wire can't go anywhere near the engine block.

Even though I know exactly what's going on (I hope) I rev my engine a bit when that light starts flickering.

wolrah · # ? Jun 3, 2010 01:33

ozziegt posted:

I found this little tidbit upon some Googling.

That DIY is exactly why I have a dead blow hammer in the first place. It's more detailed than the Bentley manual by a long shot.

e: I'm just at this point blaming it on different metals. I have no idea if that's right, but it makes decent sense here in salt central of Ohio.

VibrioCholera · # ? Jun 3, 2010 14:48

This may be an oddball question but I'll ask you guys since the other forums out there are pretty bogus for BMW questions.

We're going to be hauling a 3200 lb race car in a 20' aluminum enclosed trailer. We do not want to buy a pickup truck and were looking at SUVs. The Explorer is too much like a drat pick up truck so those sort of SUV are now out of the question.

The one we really like is the 2011 BMW X5 35d (AWD). It has 425lb. -ft of torque and 265hp @ 1750 RPM. It is rated to tow 6000lbs with a Class III trailer hitch. For some reason the M is rated to tow 6600 lbs. Going back a bit, the standard V8 is also rated 6000lbs.

I think it would be seeing a little over 6000lbs, closer to 6750 realistically. I've read multiple forums and people say the X5 pulls wonderfully and some people are dragging along pretty large boats. It's average towing distance would be once a week of 40 miles (20 each way) and the occasional 200 mile round trip tow. This isn't going to be a work truck. I've also heard of "seriously don't pull more than 75% of its rating.")

I know there's the crowd of people for good reason saying OMG NO YOU'LL DIE. The other option is the Volkswagen Tourareg which is cheaper and rated @ 7700 lbs. It's obvious this car is advertised as being much more off-road capable and tow friendly but it's not the preferred choice between the two. Anyway you look at it we want a diesel.

Any input from people here who have any experience with doing any of this?

Brock Landers · # ? Jun 3, 2010 20:05

VibrioCholera posted:

This may be an oddball question but I'll ask you guys since the other forums out there are pretty bogus for BMW questions.

We're going to be hauling a 3200 lb race car in a 20' aluminum enclosed trailer. We do not want to buy a pickup truck and were looking at SUVs. The Explorer is too much like a drat pick up truck so those sort of SUV are now out of the question.

The one we really like is the 2011 BMW X5 35d (AWD). It has 425lb. -ft of torque and 265hp @ 1750 RPM. It is rated to tow 6000lbs with a Class III trailer hitch. For some reason the M is rated to tow 6600 lbs. Going back a bit, the standard V8 is also rated 6000lbs.

I think it would be seeing a little over 6000lbs, closer to 6750 realistically. I've read multiple forums and people say the X5 pulls wonderfully and some people are dragging along pretty large boats. It's average towing distance would be once a week of 40 miles (20 each way) and the occasional 200 mile round trip tow. This isn't going to be a work truck. I've also heard of "seriously don't pull more than 75% of its rating.")

I know there's the crowd of people for good reason saying OMG NO YOU'LL DIE. The other option is the Volkswagen Tourareg which is cheaper and rated @ 7700 lbs. It's obvious this car is advertised as being much more off-road capable and tow friendly but it's not the preferred choice between the two. Anyway you look at it we want a diesel.

Any input from people here who have any experience with doing any of this?

More than just engine power goes into tow ratings. Chassis strength and (most importantly) brake performance factors in. The uprated brakes on the M are probably why it's rated at 6600lbs. Maybe look at a Land Rover in addition to the Touareg? Not the best reliability track record, but both are rated to tow ~8000lbs and are more "car-like".

wolrah · # ? Jun 3, 2010 20:16

VibrioCholera posted:

Any input from people here who have any experience with doing any of this?

When looking at modern SUVs for towing purposes, there are two main classes. Those with solid rear axles and those with independent rear suspension. The latter are then further split to FWD/front-biased AWD and RWD/rear-biased AWD. I don't believe there are any 50/50 AWD SUVs, but I'd probably lump them in with the rear-biased for this purpose if they do exist.

Solid rear axles are the best for towing, end of story. They don't have alignment issues under load and anymore as far as I am aware are only found underneath body-on-frame vehicles like GM's GMT900 siblings and the Toyota Sequoia. If you plan to tow larger trailers regularly, no matter how much you may dislike its "truckishness", you want this.

Next in line are the rear-biased IRS vehicles. I would only consider these sufficient for regular towing if equipped with an air suspension system which will properly level the vehicle under load (also fixing the alignment which would be out under compression). Exceptions exist for purpose-built vehicles like the Hummer H1, but nothing on your average dealer's lot will differ.

Front-biased SUVs are basically small cars and should be treated as such. Not worth towing anything that needs a class 3 or higher hitch.

Since the X5's towing capacity goes up with every larger motor, it would seem the chassis is more than ready as far as BMW is concerned, but I'd bet the brakes on the higher models are larger and better suited for the use. BMW seems to be marketing their US diesels from an efficiency perspective rather than pulling power. I'm just speculating there of course, but the bottom line is your desires don't exactly line up with good towing, so you may have to sacrifice the diesel or gain some truckishness to have a good experience.

e:f;b on the important bits

VibrioCholera · # ? Jun 4, 2010 00:37

That's what I figured. Fantastic information all around from both of you. Thanks.

(I ask drag racing and towing questions in a BMW thread... heh.)

Currently looking at just going the used truck route at this point and if we want another car just get a 5 series and save money in the long run. (X5 35d are scarce around here. All of them have to be shipped across states to find package we want.)

Thanks again, looking at used trucks right now. Use the difference saved and purchase a 5 series later if we still want something better.

wolrah · # ? Jun 4, 2010 01:03

VibrioCholera posted:

Thanks again, looking at used trucks right now. Use the difference saved and purchase a 5 series later if we still want something better.

If you have the driveway/garage space, this is always the best answer. A solid reliable tow rig can easily be had in the sub-$10k range, leaving at least $41,000 of the cost of an X5 35d. Find a good used diesel truck under $8k and pair it up with a 335d to get two diesels for the price of one. :v:

Gatts · # ? Jun 4, 2010 05:47

http://www.davewalterbmw.com/VehicleDetails/682830023

I'm looking at a 2008 7 series. A while back I had been recommended an Audi A8 but I can't help and think I'd rather have a BMW. Any drawbacks to a used 2008 model? Does this model have issues after mileage? I think that looks like a good deal, personally.

Brock Landers · # ? Jun 4, 2010 14:35

Gatts posted:

http://www.davewalterbmw.com/VehicleDetails/682830023

I'm looking at a 2008 7 series. A while back I had been recommended an Audi A8 but I can't help and think I'd rather have a BMW. Any drawbacks to a used 2008 model? Does this model have issues after mileage? I think that looks like a good deal, personally.

It's still under full warranty until 4 years/50,000 miles, then certified for 6/100,000. That's the only way to (practically) own a 7-Series.

KaiserBen · # ? Jun 4, 2010 15:23

Is an '00 M5 a horrible idea? It's got 75k miles, some mods (Dinan chip + suspension, Dr. VANOS upgraded solenoids), was maintained by a trustworthy local shop, and appears to be in great shape. I'm confident that I can handle minor issues and even a few more major ones myself, but I'm just wondering if this car would be total death to my wallet.

Kenshin · Kenshin Jan 10, 2007

KaiserBen posted:

Is an '00 M5 a horrible idea? It's got 75k miles, some mods (Dinan chip + suspension, Dr. VANOS upgraded solenoids), was maintained by a trustworthy local shop, and appears to be in great shape. I'm confident that I can handle minor issues and even a few more major ones myself, but I'm just wondering if this car would be total death to my wallet.

Only 75k miles? Nice.

ozziegt · # ? Jun 4, 2010 15:53

KaiserBen posted:

Is an '00 M5 a horrible idea? It's got 75k miles, some mods (Dinan chip + suspension, Dr. VANOS upgraded solenoids), was maintained by a trustworthy local shop, and appears to be in great shape. I'm confident that I can handle minor issues and even a few more major ones myself, but I'm just wondering if this car would be total death to my wallet.

Just make sure all the maintenance issues have been fixed. O2 sensors, cats, maf sensors, thermostat, etc. People say those cars are money pits, so I would stay away personally, but I have a friend who has one and he says it's been pretty reliable.

It does have the maintenance costs of an $80k car. Oil changes, brakes, tires, etc. are expensive. If you have to replace the cats you are looking at a couple grand just for parts.

KaiserBen · # ? Jun 4, 2010 16:23

ozziegt posted:

Just make sure all the maintenance issues have been fixed. O2 sensors, cats, maf sensors, thermostat, etc. People say those cars are money pits, so I would stay away personally, but I have a friend who has one and he says it's been pretty reliable.

It does have the maintenance costs of an $80k car. Oil changes, brakes, tires, etc. are expensive. If you have to replace the cats you are looking at a couple grand just for parts.

O2 sensors have been replaced, I don't think the cats have. MAF sensors are cheap enough (~$115 each, and I can replace them). Oil changes and such are expensive, but not entirely implausible (~$80-100 in oil + filters every 7500-10k miles). Brakes aren't too bad ($3-400/axle for rotors/pads) and it has nearly new fronts, ~half left on the rears. The VANOS issues were my main concern, as I have no experience with the system, and know it can be quite pricy to repair; however, this car has had the solenoids upgraded (which is reported to fix most of the issues), but hasn't had the pressure accumulator installed (which fixes the rattle at startup). The dealer says "they all do that, it's normal and not harmful" but I'm not sure I believe them on that.

Anyone have any personal experience with M5s, preferably E39 era, or know of any other major concerns I've missed?

baram. · # ? Jun 4, 2010 17:44

Brock Landers posted:

I own a 1991 318iS (By the way, the iS denotes 'coupe', the 'i' is a sedan with the E30/E36 era) and drive it daily.

couple pages back but I'm just now catching up. Is that about the iS being a coupe true? I always thought the iS was a sportier model with the spoiler? I've got a 90 325i and it's a coupe and came with the spoiler, although not installed.

Also I'm finally getting around to doing the clutch overhaul on this vehicle and I'm struggling. Any tips on how to get to / remove the rusted as hell exhaust flange bolts off the headers to drop the exhaust? Probably gonna wind up taking heat to them. Can't really get a socket on from the bottom and there's not much room for leverage going down from the top with a wrench.

Brock Landers · # ? Jun 4, 2010 18:01

Baram posted:

couple pages back but I'm just now catching up. Is that about the iS being a coupe true? I always thought the iS was a sportier model with the spoiler? I've got a 90 325i and it's a coupe and came with the spoiler, although not installed.

Also I'm finally getting around to doing the clutch overhaul on this vehicle and I'm struggling. Any tips on how to get to / remove the rusted as hell exhaust flange bolts off the headers to drop the exhaust? Probably gonna wind up taking heat to them. Can't really get a socket on from the bottom and there's not much room for leverage going down from the top with a wrench.

iS designated "coupe" for BMWs up to and including the E36. With the E46, coupes were designated 'ci' and convertibles were designated 'ciC'. You had the option of a Sport Package on all models, but they weren't badged differently.

Heat is your best bet, but if that doesn't work, you're looking at cutting them off.

Brock Landers · # ? Jun 4, 2010 18:07

KaiserBen posted:

O2 sensors have been replaced, I don't think the cats have. MAF sensors are cheap enough (~$115 each, and I can replace them). Oil changes and such are expensive, but not entirely implausible (~$80-100 in oil + filters every 7500-10k miles). Brakes aren't too bad ($3-400/axle for rotors/pads) and it has nearly new fronts, ~half left on the rears. The VANOS issues were my main concern, as I have no experience with the system, and know it can be quite pricy to repair; however, this car has had the solenoids upgraded (which is reported to fix most of the issues), but hasn't had the pressure accumulator installed (which fixes the rattle at startup). The dealer says "they all do that, it's normal and not harmful" but I'm not sure I believe them on that.

Anyone have any personal experience with M5s, preferably E39 era, or know of any other major concerns I've missed?

I'd be most concerned about carbon buildup:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/57536-faq-carbon-build-up-issue-first-attempt.html

The short version is carbon build-up in the engine triggers a CEL (which means you'll fail inspection in some states) and can't be fixed unless BMW tears down the engine and cleans out the secondary air passages to the tune of $5000-8000. Pictures here:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/128129-secondary-air-system-carbon-build-up-removal-pictures.html

revmoo · # ? Jun 4, 2010 18:17

******ed ignition timing

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester · # ? Jun 4, 2010 21:17

saw a bmw today i've never seen even in pictures before. passed it on the road so only got a quick look. it looked like a 2002 from the front, although kinda shorter. thought it was a convertible at first, but then passed it and saw a body with a top, and then saw the sides/rear and saw that the rear window was this huge wraparound thing. so the rear window was like also the side windows. it looked awesome. what the hell was it?

Sterndotstern · # ? Jun 4, 2010 21:29

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

it looked awesome. what the hell was it?

Maybe just wishful thinking on my part...?

Dyscrasia · # ? Jun 4, 2010 21:42

Sterndotstern posted:

Maybe just wishful thinking on my part...?

Thats a nice looking car, what is it?

Found it, an E9 6 series I think.

Dyscrasia fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Jun 4, 2010

Loco · # ? Jun 5, 2010 02:59

2-door e36 dude checking in. I got a few issues with my doors I'm trying to troubleshoot, and was wondering, how important is that "vapor barrier" between the door and the door panel? Because I removed mine while investigating a door window issue and it is a mess. It's got lots of that tar-like adhesive that's just a horror to clean and I don't feel like trying to put it all back. So right now I'm just not using the vapor barrier, but will I regret this?

multiprotocol · # ? Jun 5, 2010 03:58

AST 4100 suspension installed. It's stiffer than Richard Simmons watching Stone Phillips do yoga - even at full soft. Driving to Montreal and back is going to be quite the experience, I doubt I'll be sitting for a week afterwards. Pictures to be taken tomorrow; I still have to adjust the front sway quite a bit and do some brake work (left front caliper seems to be slightly seized, natch).

Sterndotstern · # ? Jun 5, 2010 04:13

Loco posted:

So right now I'm just not using the vapor barrier, but will I regret this?

Yes. Put it back.

It prevents dust, moisture & condensation, fumes, etc from entering the passenger compartment. The black gooey stuff is very similar to weatherstrip adhesive, and if you want to put it back correctly, either reapply it to the existing adhesive or add more weatherstrip glue.

Doctor Grape Ape · # ? Jun 5, 2010 07:28

I had to make my own vapor barriers since mine ripped:

1) Thick, clear plastic sheeting (I'm sure I got it at Lowes probably years ago)
2) Weather stripping

Put the weather stripping around the door where the old stuff was, apply your plastic, trim the excess and cut the hole for the door handle, speaker and whatever else has to pass through.

Loco · # ? Jun 5, 2010 08:34

I'll try to get it back on.. it's a mess is all. Gooey and poo poo. On my passenger door, the panel fell off and so did the vapor barrier. Piece of poo poo old bmw. Thanks for the replies.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester · # ? Jun 5, 2010 11:40

Dyscrasia posted:

Thats a nice looking car, what is it?

Found it, an E9 6 series I think.

i recall the rear window being more wraparound, but maybe it was my imagination. that must be it. i like that car.

Groan Zone · # ? Jun 5, 2010 12:23

multiprotocol posted:

AST 4100 suspension installed. It's stiffer than Richard Simmons watching Stone Phillips do yoga - even at full soft. Driving to Montreal and back is going to be quite the experience, I doubt I'll be sitting for a week afterwards. Pictures to be taken tomorrow; I still have to adjust the front sway quite a bit and do some brake work (left front caliper seems to be slightly seized, natch).

Sup driving to Montreal buddy. However I'm on stock suspension minus the Meyle control arms. Driven 8 hours to Ohio many many times without being sore afterwards.

multiprotocol · # ? Jun 5, 2010 12:53

Firefox Asexual posted:

Sup driving to Montreal buddy. However I'm on stock suspension minus the Meyle control arms. Driven 8 hours to Ohio many many times without being sore afterwards.

Are you going for F1? If so, we definitely need to get an AI beer-drinking session organized.

Brock Landers · # ? Jun 5, 2010 15:00

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

i recall the rear window being more wraparound, but maybe it was my imagination. that must be it. i like that car.

It does look more wraparound from the back:

Teabag Dome Scandal · # ? Jun 5, 2010 15:15

Baram posted:

couple pages back but I'm just now catching up. Is that about the iS being a coupe true? I always thought the iS was a sportier model with the spoiler? I've got a 90 325i and it's a coupe and came with the spoiler, although not installed.

Also I'm finally getting around to doing the clutch overhaul on this vehicle and I'm struggling. Any tips on how to get to / remove the rusted as hell exhaust flange bolts off the headers to drop the exhaust? Probably gonna wind up taking heat to them. Can't really get a socket on from the bottom and there's not much room for leverage going down from the top with a wrench.

If I'm not mistaken, on the e30 being a coupe and the spoiler was an option for the them without it being an is. The is got a different suspension, sport seats and a LSD I think as well as being a coupe.

CornHolio · # ? Jun 5, 2010 15:45

God drat I always forget just how good E9s look.

KaiserBen · # ? Jun 5, 2010 17:10

Brock Landers posted:

I'd be most concerned about carbon buildup:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/57536-faq-carbon-build-up-issue-first-attempt.html

The short version is carbon build-up in the engine triggers a CEL (which means you'll fail inspection in some states) and can't be fixed unless BMW tears down the engine and cleans out the secondary air passages to the tune of $5000-8000. Pictures here:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/128129-secondary-air-system-carbon-build-up-removal-pictures.html

That sounds like a problem. Does it actually affect drivability (I don't see how it would, but I can't say I'm an expert on emissions systems)?

I live in VA, so no emissions inspections, but the light would get annoying.

I said come in! · # ? Jun 5, 2010 17:34

CornHolio posted:

God drat I always forget just how good E9s look.

Yes, that is a very pretty car.

Groan Zone · # ? Jun 5, 2010 17:39

multiprotocol posted:

Are you going for F1? If so, we definitely need to get an AI beer-drinking session organized.

You know it. And beer-drinking is yes.

Brock Landers · # ? Jun 5, 2010 20:39

KaiserBen posted:

That sounds like a problem. Does it actually affect drivability (I don't see how it would, but I can't say I'm an expert on emissions systems)?

I live in VA, so no emissions inspections, but the light would get annoying.

From what I've read, it doesn't affect drivability at first, it just triggers the light. As time goes on, it can, but not always. The real issue is failing emissions and having to pay thousands because of the stupid light. Warm emissions are unaffected, the secondary air system is just for startup/cold emissions.

Adbot · # ? Jun 6, 2024 11:07

Sterndotstern · # ? Jun 5, 2010 20:42

Brock Landers posted:

From what I've read, it doesn't affect drivability at first, it just triggers the light. As time goes on, it can, but not always. The real issue is failing emissions and having to pay thousands because of the stupid light. Warm emissions are unaffected, the secondary air system is just for startup/cold emissions.

I believe Active Autoworks sells air pump sims if you want to delete the system entirely. Don't let soot concerns keep you away from the M5 of your dreams.