What did you do to your ride: forensic welding

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > What did you do to your ride: forensic welding

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Dagen H: Mar 19, 2009; Hogertrafikomlaggningen

Gr3y posted:

Check the diagram I posted above. I'm pretty sure that's the big brass tube thing on my carbs.

Are the ones you're refrencing the same keihins that are on my bike?

Same carbs, yep. The brass tee goes between carbs 1 & 2...you're gonna have to split 'em and put it in.

E: I'm off work tomorrow; I'll label your pics and add some of my own, then do a megapost. If anyone objects, just speak up and we'll take this to another thread.

Dagen H fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Jun 9, 2010

# ? Jun 9, 2010 03:50

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# ? May 12, 2024 03:22

Gr3y: Jul 29, 2003

Bucephalus posted:

Same carbs, yep. The brass tee goes between carbs 1 & 2...you're gonna have to split 'em and put it in.

E: I'm off work tomorrow; I'll label your pics and add some of my own, then do a megapost. If anyone objects, just speak up and we'll take this to another thread.

Ughh... I hate it when other people are right. Got that thing back in so we're down to just a couple of springs and brackets. I'll swing by a Honda dealership tomorrow to pick up another t-section.

Also let me be a lesson to you: If you're attempting a repair you've never done before, document everything. If I had been smart and taken a couple of dozen pictures as I did the tear down I'd have been done with this ages ago.

# ? Jun 9, 2010 04:15

Marv Hushman: Jun 2, 2010; Freedom Ain't Free

Z3n posted:

I'd flip it. Some tires are zero belt construction and can be run either way, the dunlop ntecs come to mind, but most are directional, especially non-track tires with tread.

Also your bike was probably dropped at some point and the clutch perch bent, causing vertical play in the lever.

Curses! Jacked by poka yoke design principles once again. Non-trivial flip, as the speed sensor mounts directly to one side of the wheel. What speed, I wonder--tariff-era bikes were all capped at 80 mph

Tire's gotta come off. Oh well, it's an opportunity to clean and inspect all the front end hardware, to include that TRAC anti-dive thingy. It's more of a dive-assist, truth be told.

# ? Jun 9, 2010 14:59

Z3n: Jul 21, 2007; I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

Marv Hushman posted:

Curses! Jacked by poka yoke design principles once again. Non-trivial flip, as the speed sensor mounts directly to one side of the wheel. What speed, I wonder--tariff-era bikes were all capped at 80 mph Tire's gotta come off. Oh well, it's an opportunity to clean and inspect all the front end hardware, to include that TRAC anti-dive thingy. It's more of a dive-assist, truth be told.

Oh yeah, you can't flip motorcycle rims like that. You have to pull the tire and remount it the correct direction.

I hear those anti dive modules are hell, essentially locking up the front forks under braking. If it's not solidly locking the forks, it's probably disabled (for good reason).

# ? Jun 9, 2010 17:02

Dagen H: Mar 19, 2009; Hogertrafikomlaggningen

Okay, let's light this candle.

We've already taken care of D. G is just the choke cable clamp, it's screwed to the rear carb rail, like so:

Visible in the background is the plastic tee you're missing. The hose that attaches to the tee clips into the round notch next to the choke cable clamp.

C looks like one of the springs that goes between the throttle shafts on 1/2 or 3/4, like so:

Next up: B. The hole in it without a bushing fits onto rod 6. Pull the little cotter pin and remove the upper washer, spring, and bushing. There should be another washer under the bushing; it stays on. Then slide B over the rod so that the little tab and the side of the lever with the bushed hole are facing inward toward the carb. Reinstall the bushing (you've got it upside-down), spring, upper washer, and cotter pin.

The bushed hole in B aligns with threaded hole 9. Next comes spring E, which hooks around little boss number 10. Then lever F, with the the little roller doohickey riding on lever 13 and the notched end pointing toward rod 6 (see above photo). The other end of spring E hooks over lever F. You'll have to hook the spring on first and then rotate the lever counter-clockwise into alignment, putting the spring under tension. Then the whole B-E-F assembly is secured to the side of the carb with a screw theaded into 9.

Now with that out of the way, it's time to fit everything together. Tube 2 fits into hole 12, and tube 11 fits into hole 3. The plastic tee fits into rubber joints 4 & 8.

Now comes the fun part. The perpendicular hook on spring A latches onto the little tab on lever 13, and the parallel hook on the other end latches onto lever 1 (there's a little notch there). With carbs 2 & 3 fit together, the ends of the spring should align with each other. Once again, you'll have to get the spring attached first, than rotate the levers into alignment so that the spring is under tension. Alternatively, you may be able to get one end on and then pull the other end around with a small screwdriver or pick and hook it into place.

Now comes the real bitch. See that adjuster screw on lever 5? Under the spring are 2 washers. One of the washers goes under lever 7, and the other goes above it. You have to pry the 2 washers apart with a small screwdriver and slide the adjuster screw into the slot while keeping all of the tubes and linkages in proper alignment. Edit: The adjusters between 1/2 and 3/4 fit the same way; do you have them installed correctly? :ohdear:

Once you get that, hurry up and slap the rails back on before you bump it and it all falls back apart!

Good luck, please let me know if my camera and I can be of further assistance.

Dagen H fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Jun 9, 2010

# ? Jun 9, 2010 18:14

Armacham: Mar 3, 2007; Then brothers in war, to the skirmish must we hence! Shall we hence?

On my KLR I just installed an HID headlight kit( to save wattage, not to blind people. I bought the lowest wattage I could find and its 4300K which is pretty much a normal headlight color and not the stupid blue), and checked the valves. They are all well within spec, right in the middle of the range, so I don't have to go buy shims.

Even with almost 35000 miles the inside of this engine looks clean as hell. The cams look brand new.

All thats left on my current list for this week is coolant change, water pump impeller seals and a front tire change

# ? Jun 9, 2010 19:28

N183CS: Feb 21, 2007; MOMS WITH GUNS

I found the vacuum leak on my F650, so it doesn't surge anymore. I almost don't want to sell it now. Took the R100 out for a little local tour.

I started to install the new Renthal grips to replace the giant meatfist sized grips but they are kicking my rear end, I better go fight them some more.

# ? Jun 9, 2010 20:22

Phy: Jun 27, 2008; Fun Shoe

started the KLR for the first time in almost a year. I'm a bad parent. Think I oughta clean the carb - it took a bunch of spins on a freshly charged batt to get it thumping, and it had been difficult to start in the cold even when I was riding it regularly - or at least more difficult than usual.

# ? Jun 9, 2010 23:46

NitroSpazzz: Dec 9, 2006; You don't need style when you've got strength!

N183CS posted:

I found the vacuum leak on my F650, so it doesn't surge anymore. I almost don't want to sell it now. Took the R100 out for a little local tour.

I started to install the new Renthal grips to replace the giant meatfist sized grips but they are kicking my rear end, I better go fight them some more.

Dammit I DO NOT need another motorcycle

# ? Jun 10, 2010 00:24

Commodore 64: Apr 2, 2007; The sky was the color of a television tuned to a dead channel that was orange

Pressure washed 30 years of grime, dirt and dust off the C70.

Removed the bent gearshift pedal and my Dad showed me the damage to the engine case.

He sealed it up with epoxy 30 years ago and I was about to take it off to get it welded, but I found a used one on eBay for $30.

For shits and giggles we sprayed starter fluid in the carb and tried to kick it to life.

It ran for 5 seconds. :coal:

Commodore 64 fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jun 10, 2010

# ? Jun 10, 2010 01:02

sklnd: Nov 26, 2007; NOT A TRACTOR

Put new throttle cables on the KLR. Throttle returns great now.

Took a spin to start bedding in the front brake pads. After a few stops my front brake felt about like it did on the old rotor, which I suppose is a good sign.

Since everything is running now I guess I should get the bike titled in Colorado tomorrow morning.

# ? Jun 10, 2010 02:05

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

Unfucked that screw with the help of a friendly mechanic at a local shop. No charge. I'll be heading back their way later if I decide to get the carbs synched.

Bled and refilled the brakes, but they're still mediocre. The mechanic looked at my rotors and suggested replacing them. Expensive proposition. I'm now debating replacing those rotors (and also putting new fork oil and possibly springs in), or flipping the bike as is and scooping up the next decent SV650 that pops up on Craigslist.

# ? Jun 10, 2010 02:49

Hot Buttered: Apr 27, 2008; ...check it and see!

Filled the bars on the Duke full of lead shot to see if I can tone down some of the insane vibration that come through them. Also have some Pro-grips in the mail. It came stock with hefty brass bar end weights, so the only next step are those Vibranator things. The torture rack of a seat needs attention next, but I can't see dropping $800 for a custom. Anyone had any success with padded or gel shorts?

Said vibration, with a healthy dose of rubber fatigue, also snapped all my turn signal stalks in half. Removed those in preparation for the new ones that are also in the mail. Been riding more than I have in years and am falling in the love with the Duke all over again. It's a just a bike that's totally unsuited to rural Florida. I've been bombing the 3 curvy roads within an hour and a half of my house on a regular basis though. Next will be some mild power uppers: airbox lid, jetting, and coring the stock pipes. That'll have to wait until after a trip to Oregon next month though.

# ? Jun 10, 2010 02:56

Z3n: Jul 21, 2007; I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

benwards posted:

Unfucked that screw with the help of a friendly mechanic at a local shop. No charge. I'll be heading back their way later if I decide to get the carbs synched.

Bled and refilled the brakes, but they're still mediocre. The mechanic looked at my rotors and suggested replacing them. Expensive proposition. I'm now debating replacing those rotors (and also putting new fork oil and possibly springs in), or flipping the bike as is and scooping up the next decent SV650 that pops up on Craigslist.

What's wrong with them? Are they below the spec? Check ebay for some used, straight rotors.

Hot Buttered posted:

Filled the bars on the Duke full of lead shot to see if I can tone down some of the insane vibration that come through them. Also have some Pro-grips in the mail. It came stock with hefty brass bar end weights, so the only next step are those Vibranator things. The torture rack of a seat needs attention next, but I can't see dropping $800 for a custom. Anyone had any success with padded or gel shorts?

Said vibration, with a healthy dose of rubber fatigue, also snapped all my turn signal stalks in half. Removed those in preparation for the new ones that are also in the mail. Been riding more than I have in years and am falling in the love with the Duke all over again. It's a just a bike that's totally unsuited to rural Florida. I've been bombing the 3 curvy roads within an hour and a half of my house on a regular basis though. Next will be some mild power uppers: airbox lid, jetting, and coring the stock pipes. That'll have to wait until after a trip to Oregon next month though.

You can try getting a local upholstry shop to refoam and recover it for you, or a few hundred bucks to a number of shops can get you a custom one, unless there's something special about the duke?

# ? Jun 10, 2010 03:11

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion