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Gr3y posted:Check the diagram I posted above. I'm pretty sure that's the big brass tube thing on my carbs. Same carbs, yep. The brass tee goes between carbs 1 & 2...you're gonna have to split 'em and put it in. E: I'm off work tomorrow; I'll label your pics and add some of my own, then do a megapost. If anyone objects, just speak up and we'll take this to another thread. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Jun 9, 2010 |
# ? Jun 9, 2010 03:50 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 04:19 |
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Bucephalus posted:Same carbs, yep. The brass tee goes between carbs 1 & 2...you're gonna have to split 'em and put it in. Ughh... I hate it when other people are right. Got that thing back in so we're down to just a couple of springs and brackets. I'll swing by a Honda dealership tomorrow to pick up another t-section. Also let me be a lesson to you: If you're attempting a repair you've never done before, document everything. If I had been smart and taken a couple of dozen pictures as I did the tear down I'd have been done with this ages ago.
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# ? Jun 9, 2010 04:15 |
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Z3n posted:I'd flip it. Some tires are zero belt construction and can be run either way, the dunlop ntecs come to mind, but most are directional, especially non-track tires with tread. Curses! Jacked by poka yoke design principles once again. Non-trivial flip, as the speed sensor mounts directly to one side of the wheel. What speed, I wonder--tariff-era bikes were all capped at 80 mph Tire's gotta come off. Oh well, it's an opportunity to clean and inspect all the front end hardware, to include that TRAC anti-dive thingy. It's more of a dive-assist, truth be told.
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# ? Jun 9, 2010 14:59 |
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Marv Hushman posted:Curses! Jacked by poka yoke design principles once again. Non-trivial flip, as the speed sensor mounts directly to one side of the wheel. What speed, I wonder--tariff-era bikes were all capped at 80 mph Tire's gotta come off. Oh well, it's an opportunity to clean and inspect all the front end hardware, to include that TRAC anti-dive thingy. It's more of a dive-assist, truth be told. Oh yeah, you can't flip motorcycle rims like that. You have to pull the tire and remount it the correct direction. I hear those anti dive modules are hell, essentially locking up the front forks under braking. If it's not solidly locking the forks, it's probably disabled (for good reason).
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# ? Jun 9, 2010 17:02 |
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Okay, let's light this candle. We've already taken care of D. G is just the choke cable clamp, it's screwed to the rear carb rail, like so: Visible in the background is the plastic tee you're missing. The hose that attaches to the tee clips into the round notch next to the choke cable clamp. C looks like one of the springs that goes between the throttle shafts on 1/2 or 3/4, like so: Next up: B. The hole in it without a bushing fits onto rod 6. Pull the little cotter pin and remove the upper washer, spring, and bushing. There should be another washer under the bushing; it stays on. Then slide B over the rod so that the little tab and the side of the lever with the bushed hole are facing inward toward the carb. Reinstall the bushing (you've got it upside-down), spring, upper washer, and cotter pin. The bushed hole in B aligns with threaded hole 9. Next comes spring E, which hooks around little boss number 10. Then lever F, with the the little roller doohickey riding on lever 13 and the notched end pointing toward rod 6 (see above photo). The other end of spring E hooks over lever F. You'll have to hook the spring on first and then rotate the lever counter-clockwise into alignment, putting the spring under tension. Then the whole B-E-F assembly is secured to the side of the carb with a screw theaded into 9. Now with that out of the way, it's time to fit everything together. Tube 2 fits into hole 12, and tube 11 fits into hole 3. The plastic tee fits into rubber joints 4 & 8. Now comes the fun part. The perpendicular hook on spring A latches onto the little tab on lever 13, and the parallel hook on the other end latches onto lever 1 (there's a little notch there). With carbs 2 & 3 fit together, the ends of the spring should align with each other. Once again, you'll have to get the spring attached first, than rotate the levers into alignment so that the spring is under tension. Alternatively, you may be able to get one end on and then pull the other end around with a small screwdriver or pick and hook it into place. Now comes the real bitch. See that adjuster screw on lever 5? Under the spring are 2 washers. One of the washers goes under lever 7, and the other goes above it. You have to pry the 2 washers apart with a small screwdriver and slide the adjuster screw into the slot while keeping all of the tubes and linkages in proper alignment. Edit: The adjusters between 1/2 and 3/4 fit the same way; do you have them installed correctly? Once you get that, hurry up and slap the rails back on before you bump it and it all falls back apart! Good luck, please let me know if my camera and I can be of further assistance. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Jun 9, 2010 |
# ? Jun 9, 2010 18:14 |
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On my KLR I just installed an HID headlight kit( to save wattage, not to blind people. I bought the lowest wattage I could find and its 4300K which is pretty much a normal headlight color and not the stupid blue), and checked the valves. They are all well within spec, right in the middle of the range, so I don't have to go buy shims. Even with almost 35000 miles the inside of this engine looks clean as hell. The cams look brand new. All thats left on my current list for this week is coolant change, water pump impeller seals and a front tire change
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# ? Jun 9, 2010 19:28 |
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I found the vacuum leak on my F650, so it doesn't surge anymore. I almost don't want to sell it now. Took the R100 out for a little local tour. I started to install the new Renthal grips to replace the giant meatfist sized grips but they are kicking my rear end, I better go fight them some more.
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# ? Jun 9, 2010 20:22 |
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started the KLR for the first time in almost a year. I'm a bad parent. Think I oughta clean the carb - it took a bunch of spins on a freshly charged batt to get it thumping, and it had been difficult to start in the cold even when I was riding it regularly - or at least more difficult than usual.
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# ? Jun 9, 2010 23:46 |
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N183CS posted:I found the vacuum leak on my F650, so it doesn't surge anymore. I almost don't want to sell it now. Took the R100 out for a little local tour. Dammit I DO NOT need another motorcycle
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 00:24 |
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Pressure washed 30 years of grime, dirt and dust off the C70. Removed the bent gearshift pedal and my Dad showed me the damage to the engine case. He sealed it up with epoxy 30 years ago and I was about to take it off to get it welded, but I found a used one on eBay for $30. For shits and giggles we sprayed starter fluid in the carb and tried to kick it to life. It ran for 5 seconds. Commodore 64 fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jun 10, 2010 |
# ? Jun 10, 2010 01:02 |
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Put new throttle cables on the KLR. Throttle returns great now. Took a spin to start bedding in the front brake pads. After a few stops my front brake felt about like it did on the old rotor, which I suppose is a good sign. Since everything is running now I guess I should get the bike titled in Colorado tomorrow morning.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 02:05 |
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Unfucked that screw with the help of a friendly mechanic at a local shop. No charge. I'll be heading back their way later if I decide to get the carbs synched. Bled and refilled the brakes, but they're still mediocre. The mechanic looked at my rotors and suggested replacing them. Expensive proposition. I'm now debating replacing those rotors (and also putting new fork oil and possibly springs in), or flipping the bike as is and scooping up the next decent SV650 that pops up on Craigslist.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 02:49 |
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Filled the bars on the Duke full of lead shot to see if I can tone down some of the insane vibration that come through them. Also have some Pro-grips in the mail. It came stock with hefty brass bar end weights, so the only next step are those Vibranator things. The torture rack of a seat needs attention next, but I can't see dropping $800 for a custom. Anyone had any success with padded or gel shorts? Said vibration, with a healthy dose of rubber fatigue, also snapped all my turn signal stalks in half. Removed those in preparation for the new ones that are also in the mail. Been riding more than I have in years and am falling in the love with the Duke all over again. It's a just a bike that's totally unsuited to rural Florida. I've been bombing the 3 curvy roads within an hour and a half of my house on a regular basis though. Next will be some mild power uppers: airbox lid, jetting, and coring the stock pipes. That'll have to wait until after a trip to Oregon next month though.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 02:56 |
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benwards posted:Unfucked that screw with the help of a friendly mechanic at a local shop. No charge. I'll be heading back their way later if I decide to get the carbs synched. What's wrong with them? Are they below the spec? Check ebay for some used, straight rotors. Hot Buttered posted:Filled the bars on the Duke full of lead shot to see if I can tone down some of the insane vibration that come through them. Also have some Pro-grips in the mail. It came stock with hefty brass bar end weights, so the only next step are those Vibranator things. The torture rack of a seat needs attention next, but I can't see dropping $800 for a custom. Anyone had any success with padded or gel shorts? You can try getting a local upholstry shop to refoam and recover it for you, or a few hundred bucks to a number of shops can get you a custom one, unless there's something special about the duke?
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 03:11 |
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Z3n posted:What's wrong with them? Are they below the spec? Check ebay for some used, straight rotors. They're so shiny I could use them as mirror. Super slick. I guess I should do due diligence and degrease the pads before I consider more permanent solutions.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 04:04 |
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I can't actually find anyone that makes a seat for a 2001 KTM Duke II, so I figured my only option was to have one custom made, which runs several hundred dollars from what I've seen. The main problem is that the seat is too narrow. It's just wide enough to put crazy pressure on the tailbone. I'm good for about 100 miles, then I'm squirming. This guy's website is interesting though: http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/pics.htm What he did with the DRZ seat would probably work with mine.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 04:05 |
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benwards posted:They're so shiny I could use them as mirror. Super slick. I guess I should do due diligence and degrease the pads before I consider more permanent solutions. Check the wear thickness and if they're ok then hit them with some brake cleaner and high grit sandpaper. Degreasing the pads would be good too. Hot Buttered posted:I can't actually find anyone that makes a seat for a 2001 KTM Duke II, so I figured my only option was to have one custom made, which runs several hundred dollars from what I've seen. The main problem is that the seat is too narrow. It's just wide enough to put crazy pressure on the tailbone. I'm good for about 100 miles, then I'm squirming. Ahh, ok. Yeah, I'd DIY it myself, I'm strongly considering giving it a shot on my DRZ.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 04:19 |
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Z3n posted:Check the wear thickness and if they're ok then hit them with some brake cleaner and high grit sandpaper. Degreasing the pads would be good too. I've got 1000 grit sandpaper, is that appropriately high?
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 04:47 |
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benwards posted:I've got 1000 grit sandpaper, is that appropriately high? Yeah that'd be fine. Maybe even a little bit too fine. But you're just trying to knock any deposits that have built up off. Then hit it with some brake cleaner/alcohol to get any additional particles off.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 16:55 |
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Found out how many 500ml cans of beer make a single level in the tank bag: 8.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 20:29 |
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Will I get laughed out of the thread if I start talking about moped work? Although the vast majority of my maintenance/upgrades are done by now. Once I get a new project I'll have a lot more to post, I'm sure.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 21:11 |
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2 wheels? Engine? Seems good. Or just make your own project thread.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 21:18 |
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ShaneB posted:Will I get laughed out of the thread if I start talking about moped work? Although the vast majority of my maintenance/upgrades are done by now. Once I get a new project I'll have a lot more to post, I'm sure. mopeds own, don't worry
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 21:25 |
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ShaneB posted:Will I get laughed out of the thread if I start talking about moped work? Although the vast majority of my maintenance/upgrades are done by now. Once I get a new project I'll have a lot more to post, I'm sure. Sorry about your DUI.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 21:29 |
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ShaneB posted:Will I get laughed out of the thread if I start talking about moped work? Although the vast majority of my maintenance/upgrades are done by now. Once I get a new project I'll have a lot more to post, I'm sure. Mopeds kick rear end and anything with two wheels and preferably a motor is fine. I started pricing out a GSXR front end for my SV today and was sad...then I looked at what stock SV front ends are selling for and wasn't sad any more.
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# ? Jun 10, 2010 22:29 |
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ShaneB posted:Will I get laughed out of the thread if I start talking about moped work? Although the vast majority of my maintenance/upgrades are done by now. Once I get a new project I'll have a lot more to post, I'm sure. Sorry, Cycle Asylum is only for real men who ride real bikes. Real men.
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 00:04 |
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Hot Buttered posted:Filled the bars on the Duke full of lead shot to see if I can tone down some of the insane vibration that come through them. Also have some Pro-grips in the mail. It came stock with hefty brass bar end weights, so the only next step are those Vibranator things. The torture rack of a seat needs attention next, but I can't see dropping $800 for a custom. Anyone had any success with padded or gel shorts? Took it for a quick spin today to see if there was any effect and the lead shot + better grips seemed to improve things a bit. Nothing miraculous, but it might help. Need a longer ride to know for certain. The pegs feel like a buzzsaw now. I think that probably means the bars have toned down enough for the pegs to take center stage in my mind. Also, the stalks on the stock turn signals were so disintegrated that I didn't notice that they have a little nub that sticks into the bodywork to stop them from spinning. The generic ones I ordered don't. Gonna have to get creative. Just the rubber stalks would run me $100 from KTM. I find this unacceptable. Z3n, This guy looks like he might be a pretty good deal as far as seats go, but I think widening a dirt-style seat goes a little above and beyond what he normally does. I haven't contacted him yet. http://greatdaytoride.com/Home_Page.php
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 02:09 |
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Hot Buttered posted:Z3n, I've definitely heard good things about the spencer seat mod, I just tend towards DIY so I like to do things myself.
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 02:45 |
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Understood. If you do end up DIY'ing the thing, I'd really appreciate it if you put some pics and a report up. Our seats are very similar and I'm thinking of doing it myself as well.
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 04:22 |
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Hot Buttered posted:Understood. If you do end up DIY'ing the thing, I'd really appreciate it if you put some pics and a report up. Our seats are very similar and I'm thinking of doing it myself as well. I might do it this weekend. I've got 3k mile trip ahead on the DRZ, so I think it'd probably be a good idea for me to fix that loving stock seat.
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 05:06 |
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Z3n posted:3k mile trip ahead on the DRZ ow my butt hurts just thinking about that. I have one of these myself previous owner had good taste
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 05:33 |
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Attempted to install replacement cam chain tensioner bits, failed miserably. Now the hole in which the tensioner plunger goes is seriously hosed in some critical way, because neither the new nor the old one will fit. Fixing this will likely require either some delicate work with a dremel, or a new engine case. Possibly both, in that order .
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 07:28 |
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Took my baby for a ride, enjoyed the poo poo out of the new pipe (spent much of the ride being thankful that I wear earplugs and also thinking to myself "OH poo poo THIS SOUNDS AWESOME!", you can hear all these awesome burbles on decel with the throttle just cracked), and got some new tyres fitted. Bridgestone BT45s. Is there any reason that after having the tyres changed, the front brake feels really effective now? I could swear the lever doesn't have to move very far at all before the front brake is doing its thing, and I don't think it was like that beforehand. I'm struggling to think of a reason for this, so maybe I'm just imagining it?
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 13:19 |
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Z3n posted:I might do it this weekend. I've got 3k mile trip ahead on the DRZ, so I think it'd probably be a good idea for me to fix that loving stock seat. A few of the DRZ guys around here got some cheap seat cover from wal-mart or something that they wrap around the top of the seat. They say it makes the seat a lot more comfortable.
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 14:53 |
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Z3n posted:the spencer seat mod Spencer did both seats on my ST1300, and my wife and I are very happy with the work.
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 15:43 |
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I don't think Spencer will widen a seat, though. He just goes with the stock design.
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 16:56 |
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Took my baby for a ride, enjoyed the poo poo out of the new pipe (spent much of the ride being thankful that I wear earplugs and also thinking to myself "OH poo poo THIS SOUNDS AWESOME!", you can hear all these awesome burbles on decel with the throttle just cracked), and got some new tyres fitted. Bridgestone BT45s. They probably unintentionally back bled your brakes when they put the front wheel back on. It's easiest to install the rotor if you force the pistons back into the calipers, and doing so will force any air in the lines back up into the reservoir, making the brakes firmer. sectoidman posted:Attempted to install replacement cam chain tensioner bits, failed miserably. Now the hole in which the tensioner plunger goes is seriously hosed in some critical way, because neither the new nor the old one will fit. Fixing this will likely require either some delicate work with a dremel, or a new engine case. Possibly both, in that order . How did you do that? Sometimes you have to angle them at a funny angle to get them in. Also, you need to make sure it's completely retracted before you try and install it. Got any pictures? NitroSpazzz posted:A few of the DRZ guys around here got some cheap seat cover from wal-mart or something that they wrap around the top of the seat. They say it makes the seat a lot more comfortable. I want the seat wider and super firm...I like the corbin setup of a rock hard, slightly dished seat, so that's what I'm going to try and emulate.
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 17:22 |
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Started riding from NJ to Maine...in a dream I had. For some reason I turned around halfway because I forgot my battery tender.
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 18:11 |
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Rode the XR650L from Encinitas in North County San Diego up the 76 to see if I could find some Emu Farms/ Emu Stands to buy Eggs and Emu Jerky. Didn't find any, but the trip was still great.
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# ? Jun 11, 2010 22:01 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 04:19 |
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Bought $20 footpegs for my engine guard and put them on. Was kind of a pain in the rear end because of the cheap chinese piece of poo poo wrenches I had to use (my nice socket wrench wouldn't fit). Also when I tightened them down, all the chrome flaked off. But they are in good spots to rest my feet when I need to stretch so meh. whatever. bye
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# ? Jun 12, 2010 00:29 |