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Locks don't say anything other than the 'locked ->' part of it. Contacting the seller is close to impossible and a pain in the rear end. It's an old house that has been updated over the years.
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Jun 1, 2010 03:36
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I'm going to be epoxying my garage floor probably this weekend, and I have a couple questions: 1) If my floor is already flat, no cracks or anything, do I still need to rent a grinder and grind it down, or can I stick to broom + acid etch? 2) I'm going to be using the Rustoleum Industrial (solvent-based) kit from Lowe's, and I'd like to put a clear coat on top of it. I see that they have some grit I can mix into the clear coat. How hard is it to clean stuff up with that grit in it? It seems like it'd be like sweeping things off of sandpaper. Is the grit even worth doing?
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Jun 1, 2010 20:38
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As long as we're discussing window anatomy, I've been installing new windows in my house and during the installation of one a piece of plaster fell and damaged it. I have no idea what to call this part, or if I'd even be able to get a replacement. Any idea? 
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Jun 1, 2010 20:55
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While cleaning out my fiance's parents' house over the weekend, we found a table. Here's a terrible photo of the legs: The top is 42" x 42" and has three leaves. It's in kind of rough shape - it had been stored out in an uninsulated garage/shed sort of building, but at least it was up off the ground, unlike the other even nicer table that was rotted away, and the 1930s Fairbanks-Morse radio (the bottom left model here) that had been sitting in the dirt for decades and was missing most of the veneer, or the mission-style chairs that had fallen apart and half rotted away.. ANYWAY The table is pretty solid. There's no rotting or separated joints or anything, but it is basically just bare, unfinished wood at this point. I'd like to restore the table so we can use it in our ~*new house*~. What's the basic procedure for that? Just give it a good sanding and cleaning, and then re-coat it with like a polyurethane sealant?
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Jun 2, 2010 16:17
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I posted in Ask/Tell, but on the off chance that someone here might know more: I'm looking at putting together a photovoltaic system to completely and independently power a shop, so the requirement is 50 amps, 240, single phase. Are there reputable outfits I should look into as far as equipment suppliers? Cosmetics aren't really a concern, either.
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Jun 2, 2010 17:07
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Mr. Wiggles posted:I posted in Ask/Tell, but on the off chance that someone here might know more:  Not to dissuade you or anything, but what's your motivation on this? It's going to be obscenely expensive; far more so than running a generator would be. Is it feasible to use PV for lights and light loads, and a generator when you're working? Highly inductive loads like motors, especially on startup, are very tough on inverters. You'll need to look closely at the horsepower of your largest tools and ensure your equipment can handle it.
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Jun 3, 2010 02:11
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sorry if this was already talked about. I just received my new granite countertops for my kitchen! I am looking for a sealer, and I don't know what I am looking for. Are all sealers made equal? What brands are the best (if any)? I was looking around at Home Depot and Lowes, and all I could find was sealer for granite flooring. Is there special sealer for counters, food grade type stuff? Or do you just use the same stuff as what is used on the floors?
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Jun 3, 2010 03:56
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A lot of bathrooms have vanity lights (above the mirror) and a dimmer light close to the shower. My wife wants to have that light replaced with a decorative chandelier, and while I'm comfortable with the installation and wiring, I don't know if there's something I should know about those light, as far as humidity and all that. Is there a building code associated with bathroom lights? EDIT: disregard. I modified my search to include "building code" and see that the lights have to be vapor/water proof, which I assumed. Awesome. I get to tell my wife that I don't have to wire the lights up. I probably will, however, end up installing it without the lights, because she thinks it's so pretty.
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Jun 3, 2010 04:14
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jovial_cynic posted:A lot of bathrooms have vanity lights (above the mirror) and a dimmer light close to the shower. My wife wants to have that light replaced with a decorative chandelier, and while I'm comfortable with the installation and wiring, I don't know if there's something I should know about those light, as far as humidity and all that. Is there a building code associated with bathroom lights?
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Jun 3, 2010 10:42
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grover posted:They only have to be waterproof in the shower. After you get a certain distance away (can't recall offhand; it's not far), there's no restriction. Practically speaking, though, there's going to be a lot of condensation on a bathroom so you have to be mindful of that. You sure about that? There are three classifications: wet, damp, and dry. Stuff in the stall not only has to be listed for wet, but also for use in a shower stall. I was pretty sure that everything in the bathroom itself has to be listed for damp.
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Jun 3, 2010 12:58
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The Human Cow posted:I'm going to be epoxying my garage floor probably this weekend, and I have a couple questions: I can only speak anecdotally, but my wife and I did this a few years back, and it still looks great. 1) We just pressure washed our floor -- just water, no detergents or anything. Then we etched and waited 24 hours before rolling on the covering. 2) You don't need to add the flakes, though personally I like them (I have a friend who used fewer flakes in his garage, and he thinks he should have added more). Clean up has been fairly easy, though to be honest we're not hardcore about wiping it down or anything.
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Jun 3, 2010 15:06
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My wife and I are closing on our first home in less than a week, and now it's time to drive ourselves crazy fixing the things that the previous owner didn't. The screen door to the walk in basement got ripped off the house (frame and all) during a wind storm awhile back and it's at the top of our priority list when me move in. I'm fairly handy but I'm not sure how deeply I should get involved with this repair. I do have access to all sorts of power tools from my dad, I just don't really know how much wood i should be replacing. Obviously the wood has rotted behind the missing frame, should i suspect the the door frame itself is rotting too, or is there no way to tell without taking it apart. Sorry if the pictures aren't detailed enough, but they are the pics we took during the initial walk through, so we can't get anymore until we own it (on the 8th!) Click here for the full 600x800 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. BubsFart fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Jun 4, 2010 |
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Jun 4, 2010 01:10
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:You sure about that? There are three classifications: wet, damp, and dry. Stuff in the stall not only has to be listed for wet, but also for use in a shower stall. I was pretty sure that everything in the bathroom itself has to be listed for damp. BTW, I looked up the code for distance. IRC E3903.10 says lights can't be within 3' horizontal or 8' vertical of a tub or shower unless specifically designed and listed for it. Outside of that, you can hang a chandelier or track lighting or whatever you want. grover fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Jun 4, 2010 |
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Jun 4, 2010 02:53
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grover posted:I'm sure whatever you can find on ebay is awesome I'm pulling in quotes from local outfits in the 50k range installed, which is why I was thinking more of just getting the components. Surge won't be a big deal with the right size battery bank, I don't think. But then there's a whole range out there. If we can cut the price down to 30K or less it's much more worth it to DIY it.
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Jun 4, 2010 04:19
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Mr. Wiggles posted:I'm pulling in quotes from local outfits in the 50k range installed, which is why I was thinking more of just getting the components. Surge won't be a big deal with the right size battery bank, I don't think. But then there's a whole range out there. If we can cut the price down to 30K or less it's much more worth it to DIY it. 30k to do the work of a 1k generator? Is it really worth it?
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Jun 4, 2010 20:39
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Cakefool posted:30k to do the work of a 1k generator? Is it really worth it? Well it's environmentally friendly and is more reliable than a generator.
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Jun 4, 2010 21:08
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Well it's environmentally friendly and is more reliable than a generator. Generator powered by methane from your septic tank, beyond thunderdome style.  Well if you can afford 30k to power a workshop, good for you, please post the project thread. There seem to be many cheaper methods however, unless you're way off grid. What about a CHP system for the house? Windmills? handy nearby waterfall for hydroelectric power?
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Jun 5, 2010 10:48
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I've got two questions for you guys. First, I've been looking for a list of materials that will break down and dissolve when coated with or immersed in kerosene. Dispite my furious googling, I can't seem to find such a list. My next question should be a bit easier. I'm looking for a solenoid valve that will trigger at 12 volts and hold back up to 80 PSI of liquid. So far all of my searching has yeilded garbage with the occasional listing for one of these valves, but at $80+. Are there any valves out there that are cheaper? Unfortunately I'm on a budget, so something in the $30-or-less range is going to necessary for this one.
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Jun 5, 2010 16:22
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neogeo0823 posted:I've got two questions for you guys. First, I've been looking for a list of materials that will break down and dissolve when coated with or immersed in kerosene. Dispite my furious googling, I can't seem to find such a list. First question: Kerosene is a nonpolar solvent like benzene and acetone. Stuff is usually listed by its solubility in things, not the other way around; so look at what "stuff" you're thinking of, then look at its MSDS or Physical Data Sheet for solubility in acetone/benzene/etc. Second Queston: I went through the McMaster-Carr online catalog and found some valves in the $25-45 range. This is a $38 1/8" NPT 170PSI valve for example.
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Jun 5, 2010 17:39
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:First question: Kerosene is a nonpolar solvent like benzene and acetone. Stuff is usually listed by its solubility in things, not the other way around; so look at what "stuff" you're thinking of, then look at its MSDS or Physical Data Sheet for solubility in acetone/benzene/etc. Ah, I didn't think to do that. I'll have to do the research from that angle then. As far as the solenoid valves, I swear I looked at that exact same page and somehow missed those. I wonder if there's any common use for valves like that that would allow me to salvage one for even cheaper. For example, I've heard that most, if not all, cars use a solenoid valve on their fuel lines. Maybe I should pay a visit to the junkyard.
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Jun 6, 2010 00:28
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Well it's environmentally friendly and is more reliable than a generator. If you want the highest reliability possible, get two $1k generators.
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Jun 6, 2010 00:58
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Yes yes but I already have generator and grid power available. Really, I was just looking for some recommended suppliers for the gear. That's all.
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Jun 6, 2010 02:22
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I've got an office in my finished basement. For some reason it doesn't have a register in this room. In order to keep cats/children out of the room when I'm not in it I close the door. During the winter this isn't a huge deal as it doesn't get too cold, but during the summer it gets fairly warm in the office compared to the rest of the basement, so I'd like to install a register. The good news for me is that the HVAC ducts run through the storage room right next to my office, so it's not going to be a lot of duct to run. Is it as simple as getting some duct, a register vent, some HVAC tape and some tin snips to install this? It's less than 3 feet to the wall from the ductwork and a littler over 7 if I place the vent at floor level (Which I assume is preferred)
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Jun 7, 2010 04:07
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I want to cut some bolts down flush with the nut. I tried the Dremel (not happening), I tried a hacksaw (going nowhere). What can use to quickly cut these suckers down? I have a Sawzall, is there a blade I can get for that?
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Jun 7, 2010 08:31
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wormil posted:I want to cut some bolts down flush with the nut. I tried the Dremel (not happening), I tried a hacksaw (going nowhere). What can use to quickly cut these suckers down? I have a Sawzall, is there a blade I can get for that? Get yourself an angle grinder; the right tool for the job makes ALL the difference! Cheap ones run about $20 and make short work of the odd small job like this. grover fucked around with this message at 10:56 on Jun 7, 2010 |
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Jun 7, 2010 10:51
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grover posted:For something like this, your dremel *should* work. Just not cutting? If the steel is that hard, you'd likely have issues with sawzall metal blades, too. With the Dremel, one of two things happen - the cutting wheel wears down within seconds barely scratching the bolt or it just shatters. The hacksaw blade didn't phase them either, it just wore down the teeth. I've been wanting an angle grinder anyway, good enough excuse as any.
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Jun 8, 2010 03:03
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I'm putting engineered bamboo flooring in my kitchen. I wan to float it over the existing vinyl tile because removing the tile is a huge pain, and there are 2 layers of sheet vinyl below the tile. The flooring is a little under .375" thick and the tile floor is amazingly level. The kitchen is above grade (basement below) so I don't need it for moisture barrier purposes. I'm also not so concerned about how the floor sounds when you walk on it. Do I still need an underlayment? I want to keep the increased floor height as low as possible to minimize step up at floor transitions and also to not trap my dishwasher.
bgack fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Jun 8, 2010 |
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Jun 8, 2010 17:47
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bgack posted:... also to not trap my dishwasher. Even the minimum height of the flooring will make it a little more difficult to remove the dishwasher for repair, take my word on that. I don't have an answer to the underlayment question, some diy shows say it is unnecessary, some say it is always necessary. My friend who sells flooring for living tells me it is necessary, but then she makes a commission. My flooring came with a spongy layer on the bottom and I laid it as is, worked out fine.
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Jun 9, 2010 03:58
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I want to make a pet gate for my back deck; basically something that I can put up and will stay in place so my dog won't go off the deck. I figured I could just use lattace and put a frame around it. My problem is I'm trying to figure out an easy way to secure it so it can block the stairs but still be easy to remove. I don't want to have to drill anything as the dog is pretty small (toy Yorkie) so it doesn't need anything super heavy duty. Ideally I'd like to find something that'll hold the gate in place with friction but I have no idea what to look for. I've seen baby gates with spring loaded rubber feet on the sides that can be extended slightly with a lever to friction fit the baby gate to a stair case. This would be ideal, but I have no idea what those are called and I assume they're custom made for that baby gate.
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Jun 9, 2010 06:11
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Does anyone know where I could purchase something like a Ziploc seal (just the seal, not a bag) by the yard? I'd like to make a temporary/resealable airtight seal, but would need around 3 yards of continuous "Ziploc" seal. Alternatively, would anyone know of a way to make an airtight/watertight seal on some tarp without using tape?
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Jun 9, 2010 07:02
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bgack posted:I'm putting engineered bamboo flooring in my kitchen. I wan to float it over the existing vinyl tile because removing the tile is a huge pain, and there are 2 layers of sheet vinyl below the tile. The flooring is a little under .375" thick and the tile floor is amazingly level. The kitchen is above grade (basement below) so I don't need it for moisture barrier purposes. I'm also not so concerned about how the floor sounds when you walk on it. Do I still need an underlayment? I want to keep the increased floor height as low as possible to minimize step up at floor transitions and also to not trap my dishwasher.
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Jun 9, 2010 10:46
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grover posted:You need underlayment with these floors, no question. Some flooring (like wormil's) comes with the underlayment already glued to the bottom; if yours doesn't, you need to lay it down first. FYI, you should be extending your floor under the dishwasher, range, refrigerator, etc- anything that's not a cabinet. If you just stop, it will look horrible. It does not come with one attached. Are you saying one is needed for the longevity of the floors to level out imperfections or for the solid feel/sound? I am definitely running it under the fridge, we don't have a standalone range (cooktop/inwall oven) but I will have to see about running it under the dishwasher. Hopefully I have the ~.5" clearance under the counter.
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Jun 9, 2010 14:50
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Mr. Apollo posted:I want to make a pet gate for my back deck; basically something that I can put up and will stay in place so my dog won't go off the deck. I dunno, but searching Amazon for 'baby gate' produced this gem
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Jun 9, 2010 19:27
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Richard Noggin posted:I dunno, but searching Amazon for 'baby gate' produced this gem
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Jun 9, 2010 21:55
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Mr. Apollo posted:I'll check that one out. The problem I have is that the railing on either side of the stairs are really thin so the baby gates I have looked can't "grip" onto both sides. That's why I was looking at making my own so it would just fit exactly between the railings. Baby gates come with small brackets you can screw into both sides and set the thing into if your location can't accomodate the gate without them. Pet stores even have $30 "pet gates" which are the exact same thing.
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Jun 9, 2010 22:05
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bgack posted:It does not come with one attached. Are you saying one is needed for the longevity of the floors to level out imperfections or for the solid feel/sound? Underlayment comes in big rolls which you tape together at the seams. It's pretty thin stuff, maybe 1/8" thick at the most.
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Jun 10, 2010 00:45
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My wife and I recently purchased a house with cedar siding. It's approximately 20 years old at this point, the siding is greyed and does have an occassional crack in it. As everyone told use when we were looking at it that we'd have to stain it, we had a place called Seal Smart come and take a look and quoted us way more than we could possibly afford to seal the entire house, but gave a 25 year guarantee and said it would actually last the life of the house. He also showed us a spot in a corner of the house where there was some dark discoloration and said that this black mold and the sealer would keep that away too. I've since done some research and can't find an equivalent sealer to use that would offer this type of longevity, and the more research I do the more I wonder if it's even necessary or correct to do this? I like the color of the natural cedar as he cleaned a couple spots on the house to show us what it would be like after they scrubbed it and applied the sealer, but can I just pressure wash it every few years when the color dulls or will this lead to wood rot? We're in a very shady spot in northwest Indiana so it gets a bit humid in the summer. So much conflicting information! What do you guys think? While I'm at it with the wood talk, we have woodpeckers as well. Is there anything I can spray on the house to keep them away and what would you recommend to fill in the existing holes? I can't get a straight answer on this either, I get all the way from wood glue to expanding foam. Definately want to take care of this house and do it all the right way. Thanks in advance!
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Jun 11, 2010 03:36
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I have a decent sized cement patio (maybe 20X25 feet) that extends out from my basement walkout and wraps around the side of the deck base. It's plain poured concrete. I'd like to do something to it to liven it up and make it look better while simultaneously being a cheap as possible. Also, I live in an area with lots and lots of oak trees. They drop leaves all over the patio area and stain it black. I need to bust out the pressure washer and painstakingly strip it back to cement(like with 3" wide passes from a 2800 PSI sprayer) every year. So, I want easier cleanability, durability, AND cheap. I know, likely ain't gonna happen. My first thought was epoxy cement coating, but that's apparently for garage/basement floors only and won't stand up to the rigors of outdoor life in western WI. Apparently there are "cement stains" as well, but part of what I'm looking for is ease of cleaning (if I can get it). The most expensive option would be to put pavers over top of the cement. That would look much better, but would raise the patio up so my step leading out from the basement would be about 4" tall, plus it doesn't address the cleanability. Any suggestions? I'd like to put a patio furniture set out there as well as a half-assed "outdoor kitchen" at some point.
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Jun 12, 2010 13:04
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According to this page concrete paints generally wear after a few years of foot traffic anyway. What about using an outdoor rug? Or several of them? 20x25 might be too big, but an outdoor rug would be easy to clean and offer a quick way to enhance the appearance of your patio. A brief check online shows that 8' x 9' outdoor rugs are $70 at the Home Depot. In fact I think I have two of the Natco indoor/outdoor rugs (they came with the house) and they look pretty nice.
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Jun 12, 2010 14:59
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I have a ROSS Loudmouth guitar amp, and after 6 months of sitting in storage, it's having a problem. When I plug it in (regardless of on/off position of power switch), it trips the house breaker. It doesn't, however, trip the internal fuse. I know that there's a short, but I can't see any obvious loose wires or any thing, and the fact that the internal fuse isn't being tripped is throwing me off. If uploading pictures will help, I will, but in the meantime, if there's something obvious I should look for, let me know. I'd like to get this amp working again.
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Jun 12, 2010 16:25
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