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Jun 12, 2010 22:01
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PaintVagrant posted:Cant get them, Im not sure if they are discontinued or what Definitely not. I can still order them through my local store, but the MSRP on those is outrageous.
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Jun 13, 2010 00:29
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Dear painting and modeling thread: today I painted an eyeball that doesn't look like poo poo. It has the small problem of being in the wrong place on the model's face, but that's something I can live with, since you can't notice that minor deviation from 18" away. e: wow, that cloak looks way more metallic than it actually is. In person, it's a satin finish deep brown-red.
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Jun 13, 2010 01:07
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PaintVagrant posted:Lord Den?
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Jun 13, 2010 02:46
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Goons I need some advice. I recently came into possession of a Rogue Trader era space marine dreadnought. Should I bulk up the shoulders a bit and add some plating to make it a little closer to the modern dreads, or paint it and leave it as-is?
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Jun 13, 2010 03:28
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Hey stabbington, if I can make a suggestion it would be to work your colors lighter on that model, and try to push for some contrast. It looks like some areas have a bit of a highlight or build-up, but its pretty low contrast overall. You did a pretty good job of picking out the trim on the figure, maybe bump it up with another highlight!
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Jun 13, 2010 05:43
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bhsman posted:Lord Den? I assume you mean Battle Angel Alita's Den? I was going to post that earlier, but then I actually looked at Den and aside from being a robot centaur with vaguely similar helmets, they're totally different.
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Jun 13, 2010 05:54
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Yeah, it needs more contrast. I'll probably do a final highlight pass tonight or tomorrow. I really need to set up a light tent so I can take decent photos of things, my desk lamps end up blowing things out like crazy, especially in the afternoons with sunlight flooding in my window.
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Jun 13, 2010 05:58
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Here are some crappy pics of my unfinished gaming table/terrain, being used for an infinity game. Ill post more pics in the alt-games thread. 
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Jun 13, 2010 05:59
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Bhyo posted:As sad as it is, I've wanted a model in the display cabinets since I was 12. The massive list of compliments helped too. I want to work at a gaming shop just so I can do this 
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Jun 13, 2010 07:26
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Alright, last time I post this poo poo until I take a picture of the entire finished army. Highlighting: stepped the gently caress up (I am even more in love with meredius blue than I am with coal black, a thing I had thought impossible). 
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Jun 13, 2010 07:39
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Goons halp! My primer did the crackle thing on me. Searching for stripping plastic models brings up 30 different opinions, but I forget which one earned the goon seal of approval. edit: live in Japan, so simple green is probably not a good answer
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Jun 13, 2010 13:38
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LA's Totally Awesome is another one if the options help
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Jun 13, 2010 14:44
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PaintVagrant posted:Here are some crappy pics of my unfinished gaming table/terrain, being used for an infinity game. Ill post more pics in the alt-games thread. Did you already post a quick painting recipe for those walls?
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Jun 13, 2010 15:54
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stabbington posted:Alright, last time I post this poo poo until I take a picture of the entire finished army. Highlighting: stepped the gently caress up (I am even more in love with meredius blue than I am with coal black, a thing I had thought impossible). I am going to need to keep that blue highlight for black in mind, it looks awesome.
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Jun 13, 2010 17:27
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That looks a lot nicer stabbington! Cakefool, its a few pages back, but its basically texture bone spray bone highlight airbrush airbrush orange airbursh brown airbrush a little black weather with sponge, scorched brown devlan mud drips
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Jun 13, 2010 17:35
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Cakefool, do you want another of those Cities of Death floor bits with the trap door and AdMech skull thing?
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Jun 13, 2010 18:12
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sicarius posted:Definitely not. I can still order them through my local store, but the MSRP on those is outrageous. I found 'em on Miniatures Market for ~130ish.
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Jun 13, 2010 18:40
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Posting this in here for a possibly larger audience: Other than some minor cosmetics (mould lines, heads for the gunner and driver), my Ork trukk conversion is complete. What do you guys think of it in its almost finished state?  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x1365 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. I am very happy with how this engine/exhaust worked out, it was the part of the kit I had no knowledge or plans of fitting into place. I lucked out on it being an easy cut and fit  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Mad Max references have been noted already, and may exist in the future.
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Jun 13, 2010 20:18
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That assault trukk is totally effing badass. Nice job man.
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Jun 13, 2010 20:23
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that trukk is awesome FractionMan
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Jun 13, 2010 20:37
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Paintingoons, I need your help!  I know the lighting isn't optimal, but I need some input. I'm not happy about the skin (most rest of the model isn't finished either) and I can't really put my finger on it. Maybe the contrast on the highlight is to harsh? Could I fix it with a watered down purple wash? I'm not used to spending that much time on skin, I usually just do a coat or two followed by a wash, but that didn't give me the result I wanted. gently caress, I wish I had some empty pots, having to mix all the layers as I go takes loving forever! edit: not sure about the green either, but I had to stear clea of light and dark browns so the the entire model (+ base) is the same color Not a viking fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Jun 13, 2010 |
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Jun 13, 2010 20:37
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Shallow posted:Cakefool, do you want another of those Cities of Death floor bits with the trap door and AdMech skull thing? No thanks, after a long & difficult operation a surgeon managed to open my wallet so I bought the whole manufactorium set. I managed to use both sides of a single tile for those doors. Also, FractionMan, I had a similar thought a while ago - cram the engine/drivers under the floor & do a complete flatbed/flying carpet thing. That would have required me to buy the kit though, so meh. Yours looks ace!
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Jun 13, 2010 20:48
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How many of those chimney things do you get in a Manufactorum, anyway?
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Jun 13, 2010 20:49
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4 long chimney halves of 2 different designs, 2 90' bend halves.
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Jun 13, 2010 21:00
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So I've made a bad decision: converting Mark III Iron Armor for my Death Guard to roll around in, killing fools. I found a pretty good method here: http://www.mywargame.com/pre-heresy-model-and-painting-resources/ Then I remembered that I suck at greenstuff with my stubby little clumsy hands. After making a mess of two pairs of Space Marine pants, lightning struck! All the greenstuff shenanigans were simply to cover over wiring and smooth the foot into one part rather than a stepped thing. 1.5 minutes with a xacto knife later, victory is mine! Though I still need to do the chest (plasticard plate/groin card) and find something to use for studs, but woot! Will post pictures when they are not terrible.
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Jun 13, 2010 22:21
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Well, I spent today busting out with the crackle medium and airbrush, trying to find out if I could make this stuff work on my Vypers. The answer is, I think, no. Rather than an 'antique' look, I ended up with this:  Click here for the full 1065x624 image.  Click here for the full 611x1198 image. Which basically looks more like a lovely paintjob than anything else. It actually makes for a reasonable weathering effect, and I can see using it on Ork vehicles or something similar to basically look like a quick paintjob flaking away. I think that it would look better if I used a much closer color, Khaki maybe, snakebite leather, maybe even white, but I don't know if I have the patience or time to do it all over. What do you guys think? Should it go straight into the Simple Green, or is it worth working on the detailing and see what the end product is like before I call it quits?
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Jun 13, 2010 23:36
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Ashcans: Id probably ditch that as an eldar paintscheme, but Id use it on orks/chaos/etc. I think a plague marine army painted with those colors would look super badass more progress on my table: everything is based    
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Jun 14, 2010 00:25
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Ashcans posted:What do you guys think? Should it go straight into the Simple Green, or is it worth working on the detailing and see what the end product is like before I call it quits? I think this would work a lot better in patches, like battle damage or heat distortion from pew pew lasers.
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Jun 14, 2010 00:33
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Ashcans posted:Well, I spent today busting out with the crackle medium and airbrush, trying to find out if I could make this stuff work on my Vypers. The answer is, I think, no. Rather than an 'antique' look, I ended up with this: Alright, it won't work for Eldar but it'll definitely work on my chaos. Can you give me a rundown (as detailed as you can be) on how you did it/what you used? That kind of effect on my Soul Grinder's armor plates is exactly what I'm looking for.
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Jun 14, 2010 01:27
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Thanks for the input, guys. I'm kind of frustrated by this whole thing, but at the same time I am glad that I tried it out. Up until now I have basically been copying methods and techniques from other people, so trying to hash something out on my own has been interesting. And even though it's not going to work for my Eldar, I think I can use it for my Orks one way or another. Into the drink with you, vyper! crime fighting hog posted:Alright, it won't work for Eldar but it'll definitely work on my chaos. Can you give me a rundown (as detailed as you can be) on how you did it/what you used? That kind of effect on my Soul Grinder's armor plates is exactly what I'm looking for. Sure thing. I kept pretty good notes because I wanted to be able to replicate the whole thing if it worked out at all. From the plastic up: 1) Undercoat with black gesso. This can be a pain on larger surfaces, so sometimes I have to rework it a bit and make sure its not leaving any gaps. I doubt the undercoat makes too much difference in the end, so spray or whatever you like. 2) Single coat of Graveyard Earth, thinned regularly. 3) Two coats of Vermin Brown. I thinned this down a little more than usual, because I was trying to preserve the detail. At this point you should have a fairly nice, solid brown, pretty much the color you see coming through in all those cracks and gaps. This will show through, so its important that its not streaky or anything. 4) Single coat of PVA glue. This is thinned down a lot (like 5:1), there should barely be any visible whiteness when you're applying it. Its basically to create a 'seal' coat over the paint. Wait for that to dry completely. 5) Apply a coat of Vallejo Crackle Medium. This is weird stuff. You need to apply just a single coat, not too thick, and you don't want to rework it once you've painted it down. I use a large, soft brush, and try to do it in as few strokes as possible. Fortunately its very glossy when you put it on, so you can see anywhere you missed. Wait 25-30 minutes. In the meantime, prep your airbrush. 6) Apply final coat with airbrush. For me that was Bleached Bone, thinned at about 3:2 paint:water - I arrived at that ratio by screwing around with my airbrush and paint. You want it to be hitting thick enough to get coverage in a single pass - because of the way the crackle works, you can't really respray to get better color. You need to do the whole thing in a few seconds, as few sweeps as possible. 7) Let the whole thing dry for ~1 hour. The cracks appear gradually, and it takes them a while to 'fix' in place, so poking at it or moving it around can screw it up. The final product is actually more durable than you might think, but I would still hit it with a dullcoat to protect it. If you use a matte finish you might be able to go back and paint over it again - don't try and paint the finished product without doing this, because of something about the medium it will flake and tear pretty easily and make a mess of the whole thing. I've tried to touch up edges and things in previous tests and you risk screwing up the entire surface. Washes and (I think) glazes are also a no go, although you might be able to use them after its dullcoated. I think thats everything. Let me know if you have any questions and I guess I can try to help out!
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Jun 14, 2010 02:54
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Shavnir posted:I found 'em on Miniatures Market for ~130ish. The sad thing is, that's still too much. I'd rater get the Army Transport pluck foam from TWS honestly. I have one WM bag already - I just can't justify spending $300 on bags really.
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Jun 14, 2010 03:14
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Ashcans posted:From the plastic up: You're the man, Ashcans. I'll try this out as soon as I build my spray booth!
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Jun 14, 2010 03:21
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sicarius posted:The sad thing is, that's still too much. I'd rater get the Army Transport pluck foam from TWS honestly. I have one WM bag already - I just can't justify spending $300 on bags really. The margin on the battlefoam bags is razor thin, 130 is them (mini market) making like 10-15 dollars on a 150 dollar bag. Them shits is just pricy. I got lucky and caught a sale at the distrib, which is why I can hock the few that I got pretty cheaply
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Jun 14, 2010 04:05
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PaintVagrant posted:The margin on the battlefoam bags is razor thin, 130 is them (mini market) making like 10-15 dollars on a 150 dollar bag. Them shits is just pricy. That sucks. They're just too expensive to ever have more than one really - in that case. Maybe once I've got 4 forces I will grab another, but when they're almost the cost of a 25 point battlegroup, it becomes hard to justify in multiples. Time to get some Army Transport. That being said - are there any real alternatives to these two? With BF being too expensive I have to turn to AT, but I'm often underwhelmed by their carrying capacity.
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Jun 14, 2010 05:15
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sicarius posted:That sucks. They're just too expensive to ever have more than one really - in that case. Maybe once I've got 4 forces I will grab another, but when they're almost the cost of a 25 point battlegroup, it becomes hard to justify in multiples. Time to get some Army Transport. There's KaiserRushforth. Their big cases seem to do all right, and they're sponsoring the goon oath thread.
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Jun 14, 2010 05:56
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FractionMan posted:Posting this in here for a possibly larger audience: I like it. My only suggestion is to put some sort of ram at the front so those gits don't drive off while you are trying to board them.
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Jun 14, 2010 07:32
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Crosspost from the oath thread: Click here for the full 699x750 image.  Click here for the full 1000x750 image.  Click here for the full 1119x370 image. I'd really like to learn how to paint better, so tell me what I'm doing wrong on these guys? I don't think they're bad, considering how long it's been since my last painted miniature, but if you're going to do something do it well, right? (Also I swear those bases look a lot more metallic in person.)
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Jun 14, 2010 12:40
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Seeing that space crusade gretchin makes me go all crazy nostalgic for heroquest. Godamnit. Hrmpf.
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Jun 14, 2010 13:06
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enri posted:Seeing that space crusade gretchin makes me go all crazy nostalgic for heroquest. Godamnit. Space Crusade and Heroquest were gateway drugs. I blame them totally for turning me into a giant nerd. Look what I dug out and repainted (overzealous gluing on chest performed by 12 year old me, not 26 year old me):  Such ugly models, I can't help but love them though  I'd pay good money for a Space Crusade dreadnought.
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Jun 14, 2010 14:56
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