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Frag Viper posted:If you own an older Jeep, sooner or later you're going to have to replace your cracked exhaust manifold. I've been putting this off for awhile. Like years actually. I couldn't take the noise, the performance, or the lovely mileage so I broke down and bought the parts and did the fix a day ago because my mechanic quoted me 440 bucks for the fix and im unemployed and broke. That is a beautiful XJ. Thankfully mine hasn't cracked its exhaust manifold yet. However my old XJ with its 2.5l had cracked its exhaust manifold twice.
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Jun 9, 2010 00:55
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I put swaybar disconnects on this weekend, and I was looking at them exclaiming "Why are they at such a goddamn terrible angle, THAT'S STUPID". I put the studs on the axle end(bottom) backwards or outboards instead of inboards, amazing once I switched them around they were easy to connect and disconnect and not tight as gently caress, and at a stupid angle. I blame hot shop and cold beer.
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Jun 9, 2010 01:07
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Everyone, say hi to Renix. Renix, say hi to everyone.   As mentioned previously, Renix has been waiting for a new gas tank and some fuel injectors for quite a while now. I think these pictures make it pretty obvious as to why:   So, I painted the gas tank:  Then, I put in the fuel injectors, and the gas tank:  And here's where poo poo gets lame. I forgot to take a picture of the installed gas tank, and upon taking a test drive I found that I had improperly installed one of my fuel injectors and it was spraying gas all over the intake (and exhaust!). Next week I need to put a muffler on it, so that's when I'm going to take apart injectors again and see what I did wrong. I thought that I saw a piece of an injector sitting on the intake, but when i went to grab it, it fell with out hitting the ground, so I'll see what condition the #2 injector is in when I pull it apart. Hopefully that the issue and I can get it replaced by the company.
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Jun 9, 2010 18:56
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I'll give this a shot, it's mostly third hand information so it may be a total flop. I've got a friend with an '03 Jeep Wrangler. The original I4 in it blew up so they put in a new one. That's where the problems started. Engine went in fine went to start it and the typical hard starting/bad idle/eventual dying of a mistimed engine. Retime it? Same thing. They used the old ECU so perhaps there's some sort of ECU reset that needs done? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated!
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Jun 9, 2010 20:41
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Taelrin posted:I'll give this a shot, it's mostly third hand information so it may be a total flop. Have you tried disconnecting the battery completely and then turning the key? After you do this hook the battery back up and try starting it. If thats a no go, try pulling codes. Frag Viper fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Jun 10, 2010 |
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Jun 10, 2010 05:36
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Just got a P0700 code on my 2003 WJ Limited. The barely noticeable difference is when I try moving the shifter, it's kinda harder to push. Though if I press the brake pedal a bit harder, nothing seems to be wrong when shifting from D into R and vice versa. Everything else seems to be fine. Is this a sign of impending doom for the transmission or what? Should I have the dealer look at this right now, or can it wait?
awesome-express fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jun 10, 2010 |
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Jun 10, 2010 22:24
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awesome-express posted:Just got a P0700 code on my 2003 WJ Limited. The barely noticeable difference is when I try moving the shifter, it's kinda harder to push. Though if I press the brake pedal a bit harder, nothing seems to be wrong when shifting from D into R and vice versa. Everything else seems to be fine. Is this a sign of impending doom for the transmission or what? Should I have the dealer look at this right now, or can it wait? You'll need to have the TCM scanned. quote:P0700 (M)
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Jun 11, 2010 00:33
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Sorry if I sound stupid or something, but how do I go about doing that? I've got an OBDII cable if that helps 
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Jun 11, 2010 00:59
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awesome-express posted:Sorry if I sound stupid or something, but how do I go about doing that? I believe the dealer is the only one with that tool.
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Jun 11, 2010 01:10
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Jesus christ. Took my jeep in to a shop to have the steering pump replaced with a new one I've had laying around. Shop tells me the jeep is idling weird because of a "loose intake gasket." I ask them to tighten it down and replace the pump, apparently that's $650 worth of work? What the gently caress?
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Jun 11, 2010 01:15
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awesome-express posted:Sorry if I sound stupid or something, but how do I go about doing that? Either a transmission shop or the dealer will have the correct scan tool. Boomerjinks posted:Jesus christ. Took my jeep in to a shop to have the steering pump replaced with a new one I've had laying around. Shop tells me the jeep is idling weird because of a "loose intake gasket." I ask them to tighten it down and replace the pump, apparently that's $650 worth of work? While the intake bolts can be a certified pain in the rear end to get to, I don't see how they could have charged that much for labor.
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Jun 11, 2010 01:26
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I'm a masochist, so I thought I'd buy a second Jeep to supplement my '05 Rubicon. It's a 1972 Commando C104 with a 258 and a 3-speed. I'm not familiar with these at all, but it seems to have a spring over lift to fit 30x9.5R15s. It has no power brakes, no power steering, no power windows, no power locks, and no power. I have yet to drive a vehicle that even remotely compares in fun factor. Forgive my lovely cellphone picture. 
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Jun 11, 2010 18:07
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That is pretty loving awesome. Congratulations. The 99 XJ I've had for a month makes me want one of those Commanche pickups but they are pretty much all rusted out.
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Jun 11, 2010 19:25
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Gorgeous
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Jun 11, 2010 19:30
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I'm insanely jealous. That's gorgeous.
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Jun 12, 2010 00:33
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Those are only 30s? Truck makes them look huge. I've only ever seen one of those in person in my whole life. Congrats.
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Jun 12, 2010 02:13
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That looks really low for being SOA, are the springs flat?
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Jun 12, 2010 17:44
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What do I need to know about buying hard tops? I heard one kind of top can fit many but I think only the year matters? Not sure. I got a 2002 Sahara wrangler and I found this dude with a couple just lying around. Going to bring it over tomorrow to see if it fits since he doesn't know much either. We're just a bunch of uneducated wrangler owners drat. Also what's a fair price?
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Jun 13, 2010 16:43
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Veeb0rg posted:While the intake bolts can be a certified pain in the rear end to get to, I don't see how they could have charged that much for labor. Apparently the phone crackled while he was giving me the price, guy only charged me $90. So it turns out the place I picked because it had a reputation for being a great deal and doing terrific work was a great deal and did terrific work!
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Jun 13, 2010 19:19
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Tipme posted:What do I need to know about buying hard tops? I heard one kind of top can fit many but I think only the year matters? Not sure. I got a 2002 Sahara wrangler and I found this dude with a couple just lying around. Going to bring it over tomorrow to see if it fits since he doesn't know much either. We're just a bunch of uneducated wrangler owners drat. If your Jeep didn't come wired for a hardtop, you'll need to buy the correct wiring harness for the top; otherwise, the rear wiper and defroster are useless.
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Jun 13, 2010 19:29
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So I have a WJ, and recently I had an oil change dude tell me that my rear mail seal is juuuuust beginning to seep out just a tiny bit of oil. It wasn't enough to actualy "drip" and my engine still was 100% full of oil after about 4000 miles so it's in its infancy now. I did want to ask you guys though, how long do these things usually take to get to the point where it needs replacing? My WJ is unique in that it actually has the 4.0L I6 engine that's so famous in Jeep circles and I seem to recall people mentioning this issue with older Cherokees. My WJ is pushing 95K miles right now. Any general info on this?
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Jun 13, 2010 23:31
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VH4Ever posted:So I have a WJ, and recently I had an oil change dude tell me that my rear mail seal is juuuuust beginning to seep out just a tiny bit of oil. It wasn't enough to actualy "drip" and my engine still was 100% full of oil after about 4000 miles so it's in its infancy now. Jeeps are self lubricating, ignore it. My WJ had a slight (but dripping) leak when I got it at 89k, it went away after about 15k, is at 140 now and still fine.
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Jun 13, 2010 23:52
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VH4Ever posted:So I have a WJ, and recently I had an oil change dude tell me that my rear mail seal is juuuuust beginning to seep out just a tiny bit of oil. It wasn't enough to actualy "drip" and my engine still was 100% full of oil after about 4000 miles so it's in its infancy now. I have a 4.0 as well, with the same slight rear seal leak. I have yet to replace mine because of  , but my understanding is that the rear seal is a two-piece seal that you can change just by removing the oil pan. I even found a guide with some pictures: http://www.jeepin.com/features/rearmain/
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Jun 14, 2010 00:14
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My YJ's been marking its territory since I got it at 97k. 155k now, and it's about the same.
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Jun 14, 2010 00:54
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As they get older the Jeep understands the need to begin self-lubricating it's chassis. This prevents rust.
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Jun 14, 2010 02:44
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trouser chili posted:As they get older the Jeep understands the need to begin self-lubricating it's chassis. This prevents rust. I would be very wary of a Jeep that didn't have an oil leak somewhere.
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Jun 14, 2010 15:07
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Doctor Zero posted:I would be very wary of a Jeep that didn't have an oil leak somewhere. Hahaha, these responses are great so far. Yeah, I sort of brushed it off myself but I did want to run it by the experts before I quit worrying entirely. I might be driving a posermobile of a Jeep but it at least has the engine and tranny of a Jeep warrior and they do have their own specific way of aging gracefully don't they? I can't wait to see what's in store for me when I finally realize my long-held desire of buying a late 80s-early 90s Grand Wagoneer. Woo hoo.
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Jun 14, 2010 15:32
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My 4.0 Cherokee does the same thing. I can always see a little bubble of oil just hanging there, but there's never a drop on the ground. 125k miles and still going strong. But yeah, you should only have to worry if something's not leaking. As long as it's leaking, it still has fluid.
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Jun 14, 2010 15:40
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sanchez posted:Jeeps are self lubricating, ignore it. My WJ had a slight (but dripping) leak when I got it at 89k, it went away after about 15k, is at 140 now and still fine. My XJ did the exact same thing. Had it looked at to see how bad the leak was (not bad) and it seems to have gone away. Not even a drip in the driveway anymore.
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Jun 14, 2010 16:03
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trouser chili posted:As they get older the Jeep understands the need to begin self-lubricating it's chassis. This prevents rust.
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Jun 14, 2010 19:52
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Doctor Zero posted:I would be very wary of a Jeep that didn't have an oil leak somewhere. Oh god, don't start it. It's must be out of oil!
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Jun 14, 2010 21:43
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VH4Ever posted:
$2,500 engine rebuild and a six month wait to get a good nickel-plated timing cover and oil filter adapter from Bulltear because your found the rear main bearings wiped to copper. Seriously, be careful with the AMC v8. I love the engine, but if they've been running low oil pressure for long they'll eat the main bearings, starting from back to front. Oil pressure is often low because of several factors. Number one is the oil pump cavity itself is made of aluminum. There are two gears that spin inside the cavity, transporting oil around the outside of the gears along the pump cavity face. That face gets scored up easily, being that it's made of aluminum. Once scored, oil pressure is lost. Another source of lost oil pressure is the oil filter adapter. The gears also ride along the face of the oil filter adapter, it's also made of aluminum. Another problem with the oiling system is again in the oil filter adapter. The filter adapter has a faulty oil filter bypass, which can allow poo poo into the oil pump, which scores the walls of the oil pump cavity. The final problem is that the motor just doesn't oil the rear main bearings very well. Oil doesn't get back there. First fix is a nickel-plated timing cover from bulltear.com. Oh, did I forget to mention the oil pump is cast into the timing cover? Ok well the oil pump cavity is cast into the timing cover. Anyway the guy is meticulous, but very slow. Expect to wait and wait and wait for your timing cover. There is only one manufacturer of timing covers these days and they're often poorly made. This guy at bulltear gets them, inspects them, corrects them if needed/possible and then nickel-plates them for durability. Second fix is a nickel-plated oil filter adapter again from bulltear. You can order this together with a timing cover. I also highly suggest their "HRC" oil pump gears, they fix a problem with the oil pump gears that causes them to flex under load, which also causes scoring of the oil pump cavity. The final problem can be remedied with a mod one can perform only during a rebuild. I've done it on my 401 during it's rebuild. It involves tapping two holes in the lifter vally and a line run from one to the other. This transports high pressure oil from the front of the engine to the rear. 
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Jun 14, 2010 22:05
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trouser chili posted:$2,500 engine rebuild and a six month wait to get a good nickel-plated timing cover and oil filter adapter from Bulltear because your found the rear main bearings wiped to copper. Guhhhhh I think my eyes went crossed! It really is a love/hate/love relationship with old Jeeps isn't it? I'm guessing no "improvements" were made to any of these old V8 engines during Chrysler's (brief) stewardship of the Wagoneer? Honestly it almost makes me want to pick up a restored Wagoneer second-hand from somewhere like Wagonmaster.com or somewhere similar. Seeing as how I'm moving to San Antonio, TX in a few months and Wagonmaster is located in nearby Kerrville, I guess that's not an impossible scenario. Some of those Wagoneers are even converted to have fuel injection.
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Jun 15, 2010 02:33
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VH4Ever posted:So I have a WJ, and recently I had an oil change dude tell me that my rear mail seal is juuuuust beginning to seep out just a tiny bit of oil. It wasn't enough to actualy "drip" and my engine still was 100% full of oil after about 4000 miles so it's in its infancy now. Rear mains will always do this, like everyone's saying. Ive replaced one on a friends XJ, and its something id never want to do again (for free anyways). I have 155k on my XJ and it will drip once in awhile, but its nothing that concerns me. Also be sure that it is your rear main. Some times the valve cover will leak from the rear and drip down, giving the appearance of a rear main thats leaking. Seriously though, its one of the biggest pains in the rear end to replace.
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Jun 16, 2010 01:38
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VH4Ever posted:Guhhhhh I think my eyes went crossed! It really is a love/hate/love relationship with old Jeeps isn't it? I'm guessing no "improvements" were made to any of these old V8 engines during Chrysler's (brief) stewardship of the Wagoneer? Wagonmaster irks me because they charge waaaaay too much and are using an International Harvester name to brand their service. THIS is a Wagonmaster.  It's the Chevy Avalanche about 30 years before Chevy built it. Anyway, you can add multipoint fuel injection to any AMC v8, Edelbrock makes it and it's a good system from what I can tell. Personally I'm very happy with an Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb and an HEI ignition system on my 401. The drat thing screams. Edelbrock also makes aluminum heads for the AMC v8, I'd love to try them with the MPFI, but man does that take some money. Maybe someday.
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Jun 16, 2010 02:16
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What size tubing do I need to bleed my 99 Grand Cherokee brakes? 1/4"?
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Jun 16, 2010 02:24
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Doctor Zero posted:What size tubing do I need to bleed my 99 Grand Cherokee brakes? 1/4"? Not sure the size, but its the standard aquarium tubing you can get in any pet store.
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Jun 16, 2010 04:18
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trouser chili posted:Wagonmaster irks me because they charge waaaaay too much and are using an International Harvester name to brand their service. THIS is a Wagonmaster. Haha, yeah exactly the reason why I want to buy it off someone else and let THEM eat the price premium! Are there places like that but cheaper? Or do you have to do the work yourself to pay that much less? PS I like that Wagonmaster there, never knew those existed
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Jun 16, 2010 04:28
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Jeep People, My 1996 XJ is making a combination of a squealing noise and grinding when steering is turned to full lock. What is wrong and what is this going to cost me? Thanks!
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Jun 16, 2010 21:38
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Wamsutta posted:Jeep People, Sounds like a power steering pump or other hydraulic issue. When you turn the wheel to full stop it triggers a bypass so your power steering pump doesn't lock up (I believe it's a positive displacement pump). I generally avoid every turning the wheel to full stop and holding it unless it can't be helped. I turn it all the way then back off a smidge. Or I could be retarded and full of poo poo. I haven't look at one in 10+ years.
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Jun 16, 2010 22:52
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