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I installed the removable roll cage bars, mounted up my RA1s, threw my race seat in, mounted up my Impact (ruh roh!) 5 point belts and mounted freshly re-certified fire extinguisher into my 951 in preparation for this weekend's Cascade Lakes Hillclimb.  Then I went to IKEA! 
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Jun 11, 2010 00:21
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| # ? May 11, 2024 05:44 |
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FIXED IT. I've been having a ground issue that was making the oil pressure holy poo poo light come on and vary wildly. This is right after replacing a toasted fuel pump relay wire that caused a lot of headaches. Yesterday the ground problem got ridiculous, and the car wouldn't start unless you fiddled around a lot and got the dash to turn on (although it would always crank, but other things wouldn't work, namely blinkers and windows and such). The little lightbulb above the head turned on finally, and I realized that if it'll crank no problem, not start and the windows are slow/stop, the body ground is broken. Sure enough, it was just barely resting against a busted ring terminal. The whole car was trying to ground through the engine. The tab on the cowl that the engine strap is connected to was hot to the touch and the paint around it was black 
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Jun 11, 2010 00:43
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hedge posted:A little spring cleaning: Great work there. What pads did you use and what was your technique? I usually use Lake Country CCS pads. I like them but it takes quite a few. White cars are so much fun to detail because you won't go nuts looking for all the imperfections. The only problem with them is clay bar. Holy crap you see everything versus claying a black car. It's a trade off I guess. I'd love to get into using a rotary with lambs wool for serious spots such as hoods but I don't have one with selectable speeds. 
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Jun 11, 2010 00:57
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Today I dropped the passenger tank from the 74 pickup. It's been non-op since I got the truck in 1997, and the one time I tried to get something out of it, it plugged the fuel filter and likely caused my motor to fail. Since then the motor has been rebuilt, and I've removed the mechanical switchbox and left the engine plumbed to the operational driver's side tank only. About a week ago the passenger side decided it wasn't getting enough attention, and began leaking. Now this thing is filled with the foulest smelling cherry red fluid you've ever seen or smelt. I have no idea what it is, other than to say it's terrible. It burns the skin on contact, and the vapors attack the eyes and nose. Also, like everything on this 36 year old truck, the tank fought me. It did not want to come out easy. I ended up removing the bench seat (the fill tube runs behind the seat) and I broke a bolt that holds one of tank straps. Ultimately I was victorious, but at some cost. The broken bolt was broken intentionally after the nut it was fastened into decided to break it's welds. Since I had no-way of getting to the nut, the bolt had to be sheared off. Not sure what I'm going to do there. The tank decided since it was getting attention to begin leaking even faster, dousing me in burning red fluid. Despite a shower in fast orange I still smell it, and my skin still burns in places. Since I still smell it, it's also making me want to vomit. For fun after the tank was dropped I pulled the sending unit, inside I found the depths of hell. I'm seriously not sure if this thing is salvageable. It looks terrible in there, full of rusty bits and chunks everywhere. Whatever fluid is in there actually ATE the fuel sender's tube. It's actually appears melted away at the end. Tomorrow I'm going to call a few radiator shops and see if they'll work with it.
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Jun 11, 2010 03:56
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I put a CD player and two new pairs of speakers in my 1998 Dodge Intrepid. Sounds good!
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Jun 11, 2010 04:21
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28.8mpg, and I wasn't going downhill for an hour.   Also, Panama was playing on the oldies station. I think that helped.
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Jun 11, 2010 05:21
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I took my seat out. Why? Because a big rear end spider crawled under it before I could kill/catch it. And I didn't want to fight with a spider in the middle of my commute. And did I kill/catch it after I took the seat out? Nope. It dissapeared. t 
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Jun 11, 2010 05:27
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New tyres all round:.jpg) Sure they're budget Pirellis that get mixed reviews but they're still a drat site better than the budget Firestone that used to be on there
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Jun 11, 2010 06:04
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trouser chili posted:Today I dropped the passenger tank from the 74 pickup. It's been non-op since I got the truck in 1997, and the one time I tried to get something out of it, it plugged the fuel filter and likely caused my motor to fail. Since then the motor has been rebuilt, and I've removed the mechanical switchbox and left the engine plumbed to the operational driver's side tank only. Throw some works toilet bowl cleaner in it and rotate it around so it hits all the sides. Don't leave it in too long or it'll eat through... Check my jeep truck thread for pics of how well it works on tanks.
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Jun 11, 2010 08:04
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ssh posted:28.8mpg, and I wasn't going downhill for an hour. One day I'll have a working SID too... one day...
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Jun 11, 2010 10:16
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Replaced some butt connectors that connect the ECU to two sensors, one TMAP & one MAP. These were crimped in when the GMPP upgrade was installed by the dealership on the Solstice GXP. Ran into surging the last week, forums indicate that the connectors caused the same problem for others. Sure enough, soldering them in solid resolved the issue.
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Jun 11, 2010 10:39
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Nuclear Tourist posted:One day I'll have a working SID too... one day... The ribbon cable is fairly easy to replace, and you can just pop the SID right out of the dash. I'd try myself, first - depending on how hosed it is, you're not going to make it (much) worse. This is for a 1st gen 9-5, but flow is essentially the same.
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Jun 11, 2010 14:59
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I noticed a weird last night noise in from the driver's rear wheel in the 1998 Intrepid I bought a couple days ago. I jacked up the driver's rear corner and spun the wheel. It made a terrible sound and then kind of stopped. I pulled off the wheel, caliper and rotor and a bent-up little clip fell out from inside the rotor hat. It was part of the drum-in-hat parking brake. I vacuumed the car out before I went to work. The previous owner must have loved to eat in the car because there were all manner of crumbs under the front seats. I couldn't get my vacuum to reach all of them so I just unbolted the seats. The carpets are clean now. Dark colored carpets drive me nuts because you can see every single little grain of sand in the car. Here is a picture of the CD player I installed yesterday:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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Jun 11, 2010 16:07
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ssh posted:The ribbon cable is fairly easy to replace, and you can just pop the SID right out of the dash. I'd try myself, first - depending on how hosed it is, you're not going to make it (much) worse. Yeah, I sent the whole SID unit to BBA Remanufacturing a few days ago to see if they could fix it. The ribbon cable looked partly torn where it connected to the circuit board and there was also a tiny little burn hole in it, maybe from a botched soldering job. Hopefully they can repair it, kinda jarring to be driving around with a yawning hole in the dashboard. \/\/ I know, I won't drive it unless absolutely necessary until I get the thing back. Nuclear Tourist fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jun 11, 2010 |
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Jun 11, 2010 17:38
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Nuclear Tourist posted:Yeah, I sent the whole SID unit to BBA Remanufacturing a few days ago to see if they could fix it. The ribbon cable looked partly torn where it connected to the circuit board and there was also a tiny little burn hole in it, maybe from a botched soldering job. Hopefully they can repair it, kinda jarring to be driving around with a yawning hole in the dashboard. Not to further derail this thread - I forgot you mentioned the cable was fried through. Be careful - without the SID, not only do your blinkers not make the click-click noise, but in my experience, the horn will not want to work, either.
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Jun 11, 2010 18:30
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PBCrunch posted:I jacked up the driver's rear corner and spun the wheel. It made a terrible sound and then kind of stopped. Does your parking brake still work? The same thing happened to me and it was because the backing plate to the drum had rusted out. I'd check just to make sure there isn't more damage.
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Jun 11, 2010 18:41
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It worked yesterday. I think something got out of shape when I was beating the rotor hat with a hammer breaking it loose from the hub. A misplaced whack of the hammer also popped a wheel stud out. I reseated the stud, but the back end of the stud may have broken some stuff loose in the parking brake system. I don't recall anything really being rusty while I was back there.
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Jun 11, 2010 18:56
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I had a test pipe welded onto my 951S yesterday. I had poor cold vacuum (still kind of do, but removing the cat helped probably 70%), and the turbo was really lazy to spool. Did I mention that the turbo needs rebuilt and I'm eating about a quart of oil per fill up, and probably has been for years now... Now throttle response is improved (or rather, the throttle now actually responds to input below 3000rpm in 3rd or 4th gear), a slightly throatier sound, the ability to shoot 5 foot fireballs out the tailpipe  , and just a much nicer all around driving car. $100, which is probably $30-50 too much but whatever, they weren't busy and did it right then and there and were done in under 30 minutes. Beats the hell out of the $330 Bursch pipe or $500 Lindsey or SFR systems, especially for someone with no supporting mods (yet).
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Jun 11, 2010 19:04
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PBCrunch posted:It worked yesterday. I think something got out of shape when I was beating the rotor hat with a hammer breaking it loose from the hub. A misplaced whack of the hammer also popped a wheel stud out. I reseated the stud, but the back end of the stud may have broken some stuff loose in the parking brake system. I don't recall anything really being rusty while I was back there. Arg, for the life of me I can't find the picture of the thing that fell out. I'm pretty sure it was the #8 part seen here: http://autopartmaster.com/en/?action=catalog_show&cat=chrysler&t_id=1069&id_pic=6759 The pinging rattle I heard was the #8 bouncing around in there, and the loud grinding that suddenly flared up was the #9 pin grinding under the brake shoe. I'm wondering if the clip you found was #8.
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Jun 11, 2010 19:09
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It was one of these clips, but it was all bent out of shape, probably from violence inside the rotor hat. Thanks for the picture Autozone! And again, this didn't happen in a vacuum, I just did brake work on all four corners of the car and I had to use IMPACT FORCE to remove all four brake rotors. All of them were stamped "Made in Canada" so I think maybe they were original equipment (at 200k miles?!?) or whoever last had brake work done on this car took it to the dealer or used OEM parts. I just recently had to deal with some parking brake drum-in-hat hardware on my 1995 Lexus SC400 when I took the rear spindles off for wheel bearing replacement. I got it all back together but I never adjusted the star wheel when it was re-assembled so the p-break doesn't work on that car right now. I had an idea in my head that they were self-adjusting, but NOT SO. I have been too busy to take all the brakes off again to mess with it. On the side I looked at this morning the shoes were kind of loose and floppy inside. I don't know if this was because of the missing hardware or not, but I'm not going to drive the car until I replace the whole set of little clips and whatnot. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jun 11, 2010 |
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Jun 11, 2010 19:19
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VibrioCholera posted:Great work there. What pads did you use and what was your technique? I usually use Lake Country CCS pads. I like them but it takes quite a few. White cars are so much fun to detail because you won't go nuts looking for all the imperfections. The only problem with them is clay bar. Holy crap you see everything versus claying a black car. It's a trade off I guess.
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Jun 12, 2010 05:56
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Participated in my first real car show. Broke a lot of things in the process.
eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jun 13, 2010 |
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Jun 13, 2010 04:19
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Re-adjusted my new Nitto NT555's psi from 30 all around to 36 up front (245,35,19) and 38 in the rear (275,30,19) and was happy to notice a tighter grip around corners than my much more expensive Michelin PS2's. *This was on a '03 SMG M3 with the CSL BBS's
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Jun 13, 2010 09:27
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I changed the oil on my dad's 96 V8 Thunderbird yesterday. I had done this before, about a year ago, and it was a snap. This time, I tried getting the oil filter off, and had trouble finding it (forgot where it was, plus something else). In retrospect this should have been clue number 1. Then when I did manage to get my hand in there and find a grip, I discovered that no matter how I turned the thing, or what direction I tried to take it by, I couldn't get the oil filter out of the engine bay. It was in a cage with the valve cover blocking it at the top, the pulleys at the front, the frame and the sway bar at the bottom. Funny, I didn't remember it being like that before. Turns out the motor mounts are bad, and I had to jack the engine up to get the oil filter out. My dad no longer gives a poo poo about this car beyond basic maintenance. Regardless...what harm can be done by ignoring this particular problem? (He is currently ignoring bad boots on his front upper ball joints.) Oh, and while I was shuffling things around under the car and trying to maneuver the jack in place to lift up the engine, I let some oil spill from the filter, then I rested my head in it. I washed my hair twice and it's STILL oily. I also figured out TWO possible reasons that the rear turn signals on my scooter weren't working (at least one of them was disconnected around the middle of the bike, under the gas tank; and they have the wrong bulbs in them). I also found one bike shop a quarter mile from here where I ordered a new battery cheaper than I could get one online, and another not 300 feet from here where I can get a cheap helmet that actually fits my giant melon head. Now I just need to find a mesh jacket and I think I'm set. VideoTapir fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Jun 13, 2010 |
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Jun 13, 2010 10:15
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VideoTapir posted:I washed my hair twice and it's STILL oily. Dawn dish soap.
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Jun 13, 2010 16:26
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I got my rebuilt valve body for the BMW back on Wednesday, and installed it, along with all the new seals this weekend. It went mostly pretty smoothly, although it was a giant bitch to get the gear selector rod seals out, and refilling the transmission was a big messy pain in the rear end. The 5HP30 trans is supposed to be "lifetime fill" so there's no dipstick. Which means that you have to fill it from the bottom with the car running, and the transmission has to be between 30 - 50C when you do it. I found out the hard way that my lovely fluid transfer pump (used once before) now wanted to leak all over the place and not pull vacuum properly. gently caress. It was too late to get a replacement, so I had to make do with it anyway. So, per my printed instructions off the Internet, I filled the pan till it dribbled out the fill hole, started the motor up, and kept pumping the fluid in as the transmission pump circulated it. Cycled slowly through all the gears a number of times to make sure it got everywhere it needed to go, and periodically checked the temp with an IR heat gun on the transmission pan. It got to the point where it wouldn't take any more, and started coming out of the fill hole at a pretty good rate, meaning I was done and it was ready to close up. I then decided it would be a great idea to turn the motor off before I went back under there and reinstalled the fill plug.  Cue TONS of fluid pouring out and soaking everything and me going   as I frantically rush to start the car back up so I don't lose all of my $15/liter fluid all over the driveway. I managed to get it started fast enough where I didn't lose too much, but god drat did that little incident make a huge mess.Anyway, back on the road as of today, and running great. I previously had leaks at both selector rod seals and the electrical plug (all the common leak spots for the 5HP30) which are all plugged up now, so hopefully I won't have to worry about losing fluid anymore. Now, I've got the space / ramps / jackstands freed up so I can start ripping into the SVXes.
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Jun 14, 2010 04:04
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Paint shop called, my bumper is done and the replacement foglight is on order. Looking forward to it. 
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Jun 14, 2010 17:45
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I used the 3M headlight restoration kit:    Holy crap this stuff works. I can hardly believe it - my headlights look brand loving new. I can't wait to try them out at night! 
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Jun 17, 2010 00:22
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Went over a level crossing and ripped off my rusty exhaust and them drove 20 miles home with open headers
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Jun 17, 2010 01:41
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CornHolio posted:I used the 3M headlight restoration kit: What makes this better than any old plastic polish?
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Jun 17, 2010 03:25
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VideoTapir posted:What makes this better than any old plastic polish? I don't know about most polishes but this came with a bunch of different sanding pads as well as polish. The kit's only $9.00 on amazon though and is comes with coarse, fine and a super-fine sanding pad, a foam polisher and rubbing compound. Plus the sander wheel thing. I think it's a pretty good deal. Whole process took about a half hour on my car. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Jun 17, 2010 |
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Jun 17, 2010 03:31
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Paint shop called, my bumper is done and the replacement foglight is on order. Looking forward to it. I was tempted to get the entire car reshot in a different paint colour (Forest Green, like the NA bugeyes) but it would probably cost a fortune (the bumper alone was more than enough money). Next up on the mods is to get the stupid lowering springs taken off and replaced with the OEM WRX springs so I can finally clear the apartment parking lot entrance without scraping. I should probably take care of the anti-lift kit at this point as well, so I don't have to pay for an alignment twice. After that, I'll probably be looking for new tires (still rolling on the RE92s that came with the car, and they're getting frighteningly worn through even moderate city driving) and possibly wider wheels. edit: Here is a picture. It's a pretty good job; they even fixed the crookedness of the bumper. They still have to put a missing clip on the right hand side.  Before, you can see some of the damage in this picture from when I first got it, but it was getting a lot worse near the end to the point where an entire sheet of paint came flying off at highway speeds from the front diffuser bit. Rock chips would just take huge chunks off. 
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Jun 17, 2010 17:25
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My 1986 Subaru XT's turbo coolant hose blew today while driving through a parking lot. I smelled coolant and shut off the engine, I lost about two quarts of coolant. If for some reason the head cracked (Common failure on EA-82t engines) it's EJ22 time! Or EJ18, EJ22t.
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Jun 19, 2010 20:39
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Fired it up after letting it sit in the rain for a few days to find it running on about 2 1/2 cylinders. It goes in for an MOT Monday.  It is Spanish though, and as long as it's dry and sunny come Monday it should be ok.
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Jun 19, 2010 23:06
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Put new tires on it! General Exclaim UHP's, so far they're night and day compared to the previous 5-6 year old (guessing) hard as poo poo budget bin tires. Oh, and when I went to set the ebrake when I got home, it went PING when it got to where I normally leave it, and I had to really pull it up to keep the car from rolling. That will be investigated tomorrow. Not my car, but helped my dad trace down electrical problems with the spitfire. So far the blinkers now work, all the brakelights work, and we have no idea why its occasionally blowing headlight fuses. I think thats just 'cause its british though. Tomorrow its pull the dash off and trace wires time! The headlights are bastardized, as is the footwell light, and the tach stops working when you turn on the headlights. That, and a million wires that lead to nowhere, is tomorrows job. Fathers day will be awesome! At least the car is essentially rust free, in Ontario. 
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Jun 20, 2010 03:14
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Replaced the 100,000 mile old ingition wires with a cheap accel kit I got for 16 bucks. New HGK copper sparkplugs, new rotor and cap. Basic tuneup. Trying to track down my random hard start issue so next are my spare injectors going off to witchhunter and a new fuel filter.
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Jun 20, 2010 03:43
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400K kms service- Timing belt, pulled the radiator and washed all the mud out of it, new coolant, new oils, bolted the turbo back to the manifold (nuts backed off and it fell off!) blocked off Exhaust Gas Recirc, Fuel filter, cleanded and re-oiled the foam air filter, Replaced two uni joints on the rear prop shaft, tightened diff pinion back up, greased everything, then cut and re-welded my exhaust so it doesn't touch the bodywork, chassis AND rear step! That was yesterday, today i made new flaps for inside the wheel arches to try and keep a bit more mud in the wheel arches and a lot less out of the engine bay!
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Jun 20, 2010 11:52
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Finished changing a couple sensors on the transmission and took it on a 100 mile trip as a prelude to a 1500 mile journey next week.
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Jun 20, 2010 17:05
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Checked my cabin filter, vacuumed the inside, found, dealt with a couple minor annoying squeaks. Took it for a little drive to check out a 9-3 that needs a little work, but price was decent. Hit 170,000 on the trip back home. Still need to put some foam between the headliner and the goddamn moon roof - that little wiggle is driving me bat poo poo, and I will not drive with the cover closed just to silence it. 
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Jun 21, 2010 00:18
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| # ? May 11, 2024 05:44 |
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Got my new wheels on...had to roll the fenders a bit but all good now. Volk TE-37 9.5 +40 front 10.5 +45 rear.  Click here for the full 1963x1575 image.  Click here for the full 1621x1296 image.
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Jun 21, 2010 04:05
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