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Bud Manstrong posted:You haven't had the banjo bolt checked since the TSB came out? You were running the stock turbo, right? I was a lazy fucker, and I used synthetic with low OCIs. I'm not sure oil starvation actually caused my issue though. I'll find out when I get it off in a while.
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Jun 16, 2010 23:40
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today at work was hilarious. The owner of another performance subaru shop brought his car to us because they couldn't get it to start after a motor build. the first problem was that the fuel lines were connected wrong at the tank, and not even at the pump, after the guy took the wrong cover off and put it back together wrong. So we get fuel to the motor, and it doesn't sound right cranking over, as though the timing was set wrong. So the covers come off, and sure enough the belt is on wrong. additionally, the timing guide was loose and the tensioner was missing a washer, which makes it not actually tension the belt. put the tensioner and belt on right, and start the car. loud loud bad noises and you can hear the lack of compression in two cylinders while cranking. So this subaru performance shop owner gets to have us tear apart his motor and fix it. guess they won't be at the big subaru meet this weekend in san diego. And this is right after I finished fixing a clutch install the same shop hosed up.
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Jun 17, 2010 06:26
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So, has anyone taken their Forester off-road? How good does it handle?
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Jun 17, 2010 14:03
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My CV boot is torn on the passenger side of my 04 WRX. I'm a pretty DIY guy with cars but never messed around with an axle before. Do I want to just buy a whole new axle (remanufactured, probably under $100) or actually deal with taking apart the bearings and stuff?
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Jun 17, 2010 17:48
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ZombiesAhead posted:My CV boot is torn on the passenger side of my 04 WRX. I'm a pretty DIY guy with cars but never messed around with an axle before. I believe you answered your own question there. Do you want to spend $100 to buy a re manufactured axle, or go through the trouble of taking apart the axle and repairing it yourself. Part swap vs Part repair. http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/5%20-%20CHASSIS.PDF Page 148
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Jun 17, 2010 17:56
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subaru posted:CAUTION: As long as you have snap ring pliers and half a brain, this is the hardest part about rebuilding a CV. Also, people I know have used rebuilt assemblies from chain auto parts stores and ended up doing the job repeatedly due to low quality parts failing.
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Jun 17, 2010 18:03
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nm posted:I tried to have a dealer do it right after I bought it, but I don't think they did it. I remember having them pull both banjo bolts on mine as soon as I had to chance just so I didn't have to have that freaking out in the back of my head.
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Jun 17, 2010 18:26
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ab0z posted:As long as you have snap ring pliers and half a brain, this is the hardest part about rebuilding a CV. I guess I could struggle through this the long way (which would be fun) but I just don't have the time now. You really think the remanufacture parts are garbage?
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Jun 17, 2010 18:50
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ZombiesAhead posted:I guess I could struggle through this the long way (which would be fun) but I just don't have the time now. You really think the remanufacture parts are garbage? not necessarily as a rule, but frequently yes. If it's just the boot that's bad, get a boot and some of the magical special grease from subaru. You'll save a bunch of money and learn something useful. The actual dis assembly of the axle isn't that hard, and you have to completely remove it whether you replace the boot or the whole thing.
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Jun 17, 2010 18:53
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jamal posted:today at work was hilarious. The owner of another performance subaru shop brought his car to us because they couldn't get it to start after a motor build. Can we guess the shop? Does the name begin with a G? ZombiesAhead posted:My CV boot is torn on the passenger side of my 04 WRX. I'm a pretty DIY guy with cars but never messed around with an axle before. How soon did you catch it? I noticed a slit in my CV Boot and just replaced that with new grease and boot. If I had not caught it early and it was torn to shreds with no grease, I'd probably go with a new axle.
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Jun 17, 2010 21:00
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The pre-purchase inspection for my WRX said that the inner right CV boot was leaking some grease, so I stopped off at an independent Subaru mechanic a few months later and they told me they just had to replace some kind of clip on the axle and the boot was fine. I guess I got lucky.
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Jun 17, 2010 21:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The pre-purchase inspection for my WRX said that the inner right CV boot was leaking some grease, so I stopped off at an independent Subaru mechanic a few months later and they told me they just had to replace some kind of clip on the axle and the boot was fine. I guess I got lucky. What year? The 2002's had a TSB about installling a collar on the axle to prevent it from flinging grease on the turbo which caused it to smoke.
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Jun 17, 2010 22:24
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Drained my rear diff fluid last night. Holy crap those bolts were a bear to get off. Had to borrow a 2 foot cheater bar from my neighbor as my 18" breaker and 240 ft lb torque wrench weren't enough to get those drat bolts off. Fluid was decently tan in color so glad I did it.
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Jun 17, 2010 22:29
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bull3964 posted:What year? The 2002's had a TSB about installling a collar on the axle to prevent it from flinging grease on the turbo which caused it to smoke. edit: oh god, the rear diff fluid too Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jun 17, 2010 |
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Jun 17, 2010 22:33
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I wasn't sure how long it's been torn - probably only a month or two but I drive on some pretty gnarly, dirty roads. I've got a remanufactured axle coming into NAPA tomorrow morning but I've got a big problem:  I snapped the head off the 14mm horizontal bolt holding the ball joint in. I PB blasted over the course of an hour, hit it with my impact wrench, and finally used a breaker bar and felt it twist right off. 1. What's plan B? Disconnect the strut? I'd need an alignment after, right? 2. Is that broken bolt ever coming out of the hub assembly or am I going to need to find a whole new piece? ZombiesAhead fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Jun 17, 2010 |
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Jun 17, 2010 22:34
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Iron Squid posted:So, has anyone taken their Forester off-road? How good does it handle? Oh, mine was pretty decent. Plus 220kph on a gravel road is fair whack hauling rear end
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Jun 17, 2010 22:35
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ZombiesAhead posted:2. Is that broken bolt ever coming out of the hub assembly or am I going to need to find a whole new piece?  That's what I dread the most about working on my car. You can always drill out the bolt and re-tap it...
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Jun 17, 2010 23:25
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 Hi RockAuto, We found this 1970 Subaru 360 van in early 1975. The price of gas had just skyrocketed to (gasp) 45 cents a gallon! My wife thought it was cute, and I thought it would be practical. So we bought it, and more than 35 years later we still drive it every day. It has a 360cc 2-stroke engine (21 ci) that got 25 hp in 1969. This lets us keep up with traffic and pass lots of gas stations. Thanks again for the parts you stock and keep available for Subaru 360s (you are one of the very few who actually list parts for them) and so many other vehicles! The SUBARU 360 DRIVERS' CLUB has also helped us and other Subaru 360 drivers keep our favorite vehicles on the road. Ed in Arizona
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Jun 18, 2010 00:24
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I hope this hasn't been asked already so apologies if I missed it in the previous 100 odd pages. What fuel is everyone using for their Subarus? I have a Legacy GTB and use 98 RON fuel whenever I can but occassionally have to use 95 RON. I've been told that because my car is JDM that it's mapped for 100 RON fuel which is, I think, only available in Japan so 98 RON is the closest I can get to this. So, what model do you have and which fuel type do you put in her?
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Jun 18, 2010 00:48
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Iron Squid posted:So, has anyone taken their Forester off-road? How good does it handle? There is a guy on USMB that wheels his. Seems like it's pretty capable. He takes it to on some jeep meets and surprises people with it.
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Jun 18, 2010 00:56
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Only problems with wheeling an impreza based subaru is the open drivetrain/lack of low range and high centering. A friend of mine has some experience wheeling his impreza (forester is based off the impreza, but has taller suspension), close enough I guess.  Lifted with 1 inch spacers (similar to if he had just thrown forester suspension on it). General Grabber truck tires. He said it was fine out in the Utah Desert, but here in Maine, he's had some trouble... Utah:  http://www.youtube.com/user/skiermandude#p/u/5/xgVnoitPcvI Maine: 
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Jun 18, 2010 03:56
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I love the offroad Imprezas. Someone on DirtyImpreza had this really butchered 06 wagon that he moved the suspension mounting points and did a whole new rear subframe. Looked awesome. e: It's the Jackson Rally "Dirty Wagon." I'm sure someone posted about this here before.  http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f115/jackson-rally-project-dirtywagon-43190/ Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Jun 18, 2010 |
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Jun 18, 2010 03:59
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ZombiesAhead posted:I wasn't sure how long it's been torn - probably only a month or two but I drive on some pretty gnarly, dirty roads. well gently caress. Unless you have a nice drill press setup and some good taps, probably get on car-part.com immediately and find a whole knuckle at a nearby yard. Sorry to hear of your misfortune.
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Jun 18, 2010 04:37
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ab0z posted:well gently caress. Unless you have a nice drill press setup and some good taps, probably get on car-part.com immediately and find a whole knuckle at a nearby yard. Sorry to hear of your misfortune. Oh man I am notorious for this... I'm leaving the country for almost a year in two weeks though so I think I'm just going to put the wheel and axle nut back on and pretend this never happened... Not even going to try to drill/tap I'm just gonna buy a knuckle when I eventually have to deal with this.
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Jun 18, 2010 05:46
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Hopefully this isn't something for the "Stupid car questions" thread... My 03 Forester (about 56k on the clock, 5 speed) has started making strange noises from the front suspension, but only in a specific temperature range. If the outside temperature is between about 30 and 60 degrees, something in the front suspension makes a loud "chirp!" sound if I hit a sharp bump like a frost heave or pothole. The ride quality is perfectly fine when the noise occurs, the springs and struts look fine from what I can see, and doing a "bounce test" on the front bumper doesn't produce the noise and doesn't indicate anything abnormal with the struts rebounding. I've checked to see if there's anything loose under the hood, and that didn't turn up anything either. Any ideas what might be causing this?
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Jun 18, 2010 06:07
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ZombiesAhead posted:I wasn't sure how long it's been torn - probably only a month or two but I drive on some pretty gnarly, dirty roads. Drill it out from the ther side. If you're lucky it will spin out before you trash the threads or balljoint. Even if you do drill out the threads you can just put a bolt and nut through it. In other news, today I had the wrx I was driving to the tuner put a smoke screen down the freeway for a few miles and light on fire. Stupid oil on the stupid header wrap. Luckily it went out on it's own while we were dcranbling to find a way to put it out. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jun 18, 2010 |
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Jun 18, 2010 06:09
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jamal posted:Drill it out from the ther side. If you're lucky it will spin out before you trash the threads or balljoint. Even if you do drill out the threads you can just put a bolt and nut through it. Oh crap I didn't think of that. That's a great idea! You can access both sides so it would work fine aside from looking a little ghetto.
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Jun 18, 2010 06:15
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Posted it before...but... ...I love my car.
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Jun 20, 2010 08:54
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I suppose I can post here now. I'd been eyeballing the 2009+ WRX's for a while; and finally came across exactly what I was looking for. 2009 WRX Premium with Navigation Dark grey Absolutely babied and perfect condition with 16k on the clock. It's 110% perfect. Quite happy with the find and what I paid for it. Annnd I'm loving it. Cobb Stage 1 worth the $600? Dont really want to get too over-the-top with mods on this one for a while, but a flash is a-ok.  
Walked fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jun 20, 2010 |
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Jun 20, 2010 16:21
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Do not waste money on the AP. Find a trusted tuner in your area, or have someone flash an XPT map on your car.
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Jun 20, 2010 18:25
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An Accessport already came with my car, but they never applied the flash from it for some reason (according to what they told me, which may be bullshit). Would it be worth applying the flash for free, or should I really seek out a good open source tuner? Right now I haven't even hooked it up to see if the boost gauge works. It's one of the old style Accessports too, before they looked like a melted iPod.
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Jun 21, 2010 06:04
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The stage 1 map only adds about 1 psi to the total boost, but it completely changes how the power comes on. Rather than waiting till high rpm to give you full boost, the car achieves full boost at around 3-3500 rpm. Made my '03 feel like a completely different car. With no other mods (aside from a catless up pipe, it's a reliability mod!) my car *feels* incredibly fast. The WRX went from a reasonably quick car when you wring the tach towards 7k to a REALLY fast car from 3-7k. I can't wait to apply stage 2 once I get a TBE. Here's another way to justify purchasing the AP v2. It will act as a gauge cluster for you. An Electronic gauge cluster. So say you want a boost gauge, you don't have to splice into your vacuum hoses to run another vacuum hose into your cabin (or to a sender, and then a wire into the cabin). It uses the cars built in sensors to tell you what's going on. If you don't want to just see boost, but you want to see what the turbo is doing to achieve the boost target, you can go to Turbo Dynamics and see what the car is trying to do (add boost, lose boost) at any give RPM/throttle position. Or it can show you your vehicle speed, intake temp, coolant temp, fuel economy, timing advance, barometric pressure, absolute pressure, etc etc etc etc etc. Don't just think of it as a "tuner" it is so much more than that. Mine was worth every penny (buy it used if you can). I will however completely agree that if you want to get the absolute most out of your car go to a professional tuner, but if you don't mind spending the money 1 time to get slightly conservative maps, the AP is the way to go. And rather than paying a tuner to get you a stage 1 map, stage 2, whatever you can get the AP. Nnear me, EQ tuning, they charge $175 to flash your car with an off the shelf map for your mods, $250 to spend 1 hour max to slightly tune the flash to your car, and $400+ to spend 2-3 hours to fine tune the tune to your car. No doubt it will be a good tune after that, but what if you then change something, change exhaust, change turbo, change intercooler, change injectors, change up pipe, etc etc etc etc etc. Another $400+? Could have gotten the AP, gone with their stage flashes, and when you get your "final" mod, THEN go to the pro tuner to get it dialed in tight. If you feel like you need to. Amandyke fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Jun 21, 2010 |
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Jun 21, 2010 07:13
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Hammer Floyd posted:Posted it before...but... Where was that taken at?
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Jun 21, 2010 08:52
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I have a friend with a 2003 Subaru Outback, 4-cyl engine (I think) and 5-speed manual. His compressor has failed. I work for an A/C place and can get him a compressor through us but I need the Subaru part number for the compressor. The dealer needs the VIN first, which I don't have handy. If there is only one compressor for this year/engine (and I don't know that there is, maybe that's why the dealer needs the VIN?) can somebody get me the p/n?
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Jun 21, 2010 15:05
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Cat Terrist posted:Where was that taken at? In the middle of Alaska, a small native town called Waggach'kpyangtong. It hadn't been visited since 1956 when the great british explorer... ...Nah, I'm bullshitting. South-East Melbourne Suburbs.
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Jun 21, 2010 15:58
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CornHolio posted:I have a friend with a 2003 Subaru Outback, 4-cyl engine (I think) and 5-speed manual. His compressor has failed. I work for an A/C place and can get him a compressor through us but I need the Subaru part number for the compressor. The dealer needs the VIN first, which I don't have handy. If there is only one compressor for this year/engine (and I don't know that there is, maybe that's why the dealer needs the VIN?) can somebody get me the p/n? http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Air+Conditioning+Compressor&year=2003
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Jun 21, 2010 16:36
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azflyboy posted:Hopefully this isn't something for the "Stupid car questions" thread... End links/end link bushings? Front end bushings somewhere?
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Jun 21, 2010 16:59
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Amandyke posted:http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Air+Conditioning+Compressor&year=2003 Thanks!
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Jun 21, 2010 17:06
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Walked posted:I suppose I can post here now. I'd been eyeballing the 2009+ WRX's for a while; and finally came across exactly what I was looking for. Nice car! Find a AP used (they sell for 400 pretty regularly on any of the big forums), use the Cobb OTS (off the shelf) map, and then save some cash for a protune. Even the Cobb off the shelf map is fantastic though, as mentioned before, totally different car. The great thing about the AP is that you can uninstall it easily prior to bringing in your car. The same can't be said for most other tunes - that alone makes it worth it in my opinion (nevermind the boost gauge, data logging, launch control, and so forth that come with the AP).
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Jun 21, 2010 17:10
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Thanks! Really good insight - sounds dead on for what I want. Questions, though,have arisen. First subaru, so maybe it's normal, maybe not! Gears 1-4 most notable, have a notable chatter/almost chirp between 2500-3500rpm. Easiest way to replicate is accellerate lightly throug that range in first/second, or to simple let off the gas totally while in that range in 3rd/4th. Issue? Normal? It's kinda loud, thinkin I should have it looked at.
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Jun 21, 2010 18:38
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