|
The Will posted:BMW e30 - the brake warning light is on, and I've been told that this is almost certainly due to a faulty brake sensor. They seem very cheap to buy, but how do I know which one to replace? Or do I do all four at the same time? Buy sensor, try both plugs to see which one makes the light go off. You need to leave the key in the accessory position for around a minute to get the light to go off. edit: There are only two sensors, on opposing sides of the car, front and back. On my car there's one on the passenger rear and driver's front. revmoo fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jun 16, 2010 |
#
?
Jun 16, 2010 18:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 01:16 |
|
|
The Will posted:BMW e30 - the brake warning light is on, and I've been told that this is almost certainly due to a faulty brake sensor. They seem very cheap to buy, but how do I know which one to replace? Or do I do all four at the same time? Is it constantly on? Or did it just start coming on? If it only lights when you hit the brakes, the sensor is doing its job properly and you need to replace your brake pads and resurface your rotors. If it's constantly on, it probably got disconnected. I don't see how a wear sensor could possibly just break without the brake pad being worn.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2010 19:47
|
|
|
In which case you would get the pads and the sensor. :P (gah, I am starting to realize how much I've done maintenance wise on the e46 M3... Still under 2k including labor, though.)
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2010 21:35
|
|
|
Yeah I don't think they usually come on by accident. You probably need new pads and probably new rotors too. The brake sensor is funny, it's basically a $10 light on your dash. Every time it comes on you're out $10 or so to make it go away. You're better off checking pad depth yourself and doing the job before it's necessary...which negates the benefit of a pad wear sensor. Oh well, it's only $10 (less if you shop around) Brakes were a pricey job on my E36; $500 to do the whole car (parts only)
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2010 23:32
|
|
|
revmoo posted:
Seriously? Front Disc $55.48 x 2 (Zimmerman) Rear Disc $41.21 x 2 (Zimmerman) (Zimmerman are the quality, more expensive ones - you can save probably $50 total by getting cheaper rotors) Mintex front pads (I have them, they're great) $47.26 Mintex rear pads $38.48 Brake pad sensor front, $9.43 (not required) Brake pad sensor, rear $9.47 (not required) So assuming you get the sensors and the more expensive Mintex pads and Zimmerman rotors, cost is still only $298.02 for everything. Maybe a tad more if you opt for new caliper bolts and brake fluid. You might want to check your vendor  As an aside, a cross-post from the 'what did you do to your ride today?' thread: I used the 3M headlight restoration kit:     Holy crap this stuff works. I can hardly believe it - my headlights look brand loving new. I can't wait to try them out at night! 
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 00:36
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:I used the 3M headlight restoration kit: That looks fantastic. Care to share some details - price, labor involved, etc?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 00:42
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:That looks fantastic. Care to share some details - price, labor involved, etc? The kit is $9.00 and it took me a half hour of my time. You need a drill (preferably corded, I bought a corded Kawasaki to get the RPMs I needed but I don't know if it's entirely necessary; I didn't even own a real drill so I figured I needed one anyway) and some masking tape to protect the area around the headlight. You basically sand it with a series of sanding pads, then clean it and polish it. For the price it's incredible.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 01:22
|
|
|
I started to do this once and realized the 3M kit I bought was missing a disk, meaning I had taped off my headlights for nothing that day. I haven't gotten around to it again, I'm half considering just dropping the $125 on a set of Depo/DJAutos with regular halogens in them and selling off the stupid HID kit.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 01:38
|
|
|
So something weird happened today on my E36. The gauge cluster cut in and out a couple of times while driving, but my trip information didn't reset or anything. Could this be a loose connection in the back, or something else?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 03:20
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Buy sensor, try both plugs to see which one makes the light go off. You need to leave the key in the accessory position for around a minute to get the light to go off. Righto, Thanks all for the advice. The light is always on, flickers off for minutes at a time, comes on for a while, goes off for a while, etc. I'll buy a new sensor, d/c one of the old ones and replace, then turn the car on but without the engine running for a minute or two to see if the dash warning light goes out. Thanks again! EDIT: Another pants-on-head retarded question - where is the switch for my foglights? They're there - but I can only seem to turn on my inner/outer headlight pairs in varying brightnesses. Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 11:37 on Jun 17, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 11:30
|
|
|
I emailed Dice with no luck for support. Has anyone here ever had any luck using the Dice iPod adapter for the BMW? (Mine's on an E46). I ask a lot of questions. I know. Recently it stopped working all together. Radio controls no longer work, no text display, and the audio is at like 25% maxed out. Have no idea what it could be.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 12:47
|
|
|
Go to Bavariansoundwerks.com. They have a very detailed support team for the DICE kit. I just installed mine on the e46 M3 and it worked like a charm. Try disconnecting battery, then disconnecting it from the amp, and reconnecting. Connections always seem to be the culprit.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 13:36
|
|
|
madrugan posted:Go to Bavariansoundwerks.com. They have a very detailed support team for the DICE kit. I just installed mine on the e46 M3 and it worked like a charm. Try disconnecting battery, then disconnecting it from the amp, and reconnecting. Connections always seem to be the culprit. This happens to be where I bought it from. Thanks. I usually try to avoid emailing retailers for help because they direct me to the manufacturer. Mine is in an E46 M3 as well. Have you ran into any issues with speakers rattling by chance? My door speakers seem to have rattles in each side. I pulled apart the passenger door and I'm missing some clips that hold the door in but do not think thats the reason it is rattling. Do the Harmon Kardon speakers wear out? (Going on 9 years old now.)
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 14:51
|
|
|
VibrioCholera posted:This happens to be where I bought it from. Thanks. I usually try to avoid emailing retailers for help because they direct me to the manufacturer. Mine is in an E46 M3 as well. Have you ran into any issues with speakers rattling by chance? My door speakers seem to have rattles in each side. I pulled apart the passenger door and I'm missing some clips that hold the door in but do not think thats the reason it is rattling. Do the Harmon Kardon speakers wear out? (Going on 9 years old now.) Mine are doing the same thing. It is the upper clip thats missing and making my tweeters sound like they are blown. Use duct tape to secure and pad the loose clips. Worked for me.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 18:53
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:So something weird happened today on my E36. The gauge cluster cut in and out a couple of times while driving, but my trip information didn't reset or anything. Could this be a loose connection in the back, or something else? When I bought my '94 325i 5 years ago it did this the first day, and then maybe three or four times the first six months of ownership. I kept the car until just a few months ago, and it never did this again. In fact I forgot it ever happened until I read your post. I guess this doesn't help you at all.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 19:36
|
|
|
I loathe my warranty company. They've essentially told me, "your blown SMG pump is a pre-existing condition. We know BMW's techs disagree, and we have no proof to back up our position, but it just has to be. Claim denied. Have a nice day."
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 22:19
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:I loathe my warranty company. This, right here, is a scam. Lawyer up, hoss.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 22:21
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:I loathe my warranty company. This is why you don't buy warranties from 3rd parties
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 22:24
|
|
|
What does the warranty contract say about pre-existing conditions? But yeah, get a lawyer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 23:19
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:This, right here, is a scam. Lawyer up, hoss. Sure is, but the warranty company has better paid lawyers than he will. I've never EVER heard a good outcome from dealing with a 3rd party warranty company. They'll cheerfully take your money and find any way in they can to not pay out including, in this case, outright lying. Sorry to hear about it Orange. Is the car basically un-drivable/unsellable at this point?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 01:21
|
|
|
Brock Landers posted:Sure is, but the warranty company has better paid lawyers than he will. I've never EVER heard a good outcome from dealing with a 3rd party warranty company. They'll cheerfully take your money and find any way in they can to not pay out including, in this case, outright lying. Sorry to hear about it Orange. Is the car basically un-drivable/unsellable at this point? I have a legal insurance plan through work, so I can use that to get a lawyer with minimal out of pocket expenses. The tricky part is my contract has a binding arbitration clause, which consumerist.com claims has a 98% chance of finding in the company's favor, regardless of who's in the right. I've talked to the lawyer, but am still holding him in reserve until my last effort's are hit. I've also figured out the e-mail addresses for their senior execs and e-mailed thirteen of them. Surprisingly, one has responded already (about 10pm their time), so I'm hoping that will go somewhere. As far as the car goes, it's stuck in first gear and that's that. It can't be started and needs wheel-dolleys to move. To their credit, McKenna BMW has basically said they'll store the car at no charge until this is all resolved.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 02:53
|
|
|
Is there any way to aim or otherwise regulate the flow of windshield washer nozzles? I just replaced both of them on my E36 and now 4 high-pressure jets of washer fluid blast hilariously over my roof and behind me. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 05:24
|
|
|
Take a needle and stick them in the nozzles to aim them. Trial and error.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 05:46
|
|
|
McMadCow posted:Is there any way to aim or otherwise regulate the flow of windshield washer nozzles? I just replaced both of them on my E36 and now 4 high-pressure jets of washer fluid blast hilariously over my roof and behind me. My old Honda Civic did that, I thought it was an especially good way to punish tailgaters on the freeway. I recommend keeping one mis-aimed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 05:56
|
|
|
McMadCow posted:Is there any way to aim or otherwise regulate the flow of windshield washer nozzles? I just replaced both of them on my E36 and now 4 high-pressure jets of washer fluid blast hilariously over my roof and behind me. Just did this job myself. I was pissed as hell that they don't come aligned from the factory. I used a roofing nail to align them, took about 20 mins.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 15:31
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Just did this job myself. I was pissed as hell that they don't come aligned from the factory. I used a roofing nail to align them, took about 20 mins. So what am I actually doing? Sticking the nail/pin into the nozzles and just forcing it around until the jets point where I tell them to?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 17:28
|
|
|
Yup. It's a ton of trial-and-error because it's hard to be very precise. You'll push it up too far and then down too far to compensate. Having someone inside the car to push the lever wouldn't be a bad idea. The nozzles seem to be on some sort of ball joint so while it feels like you're breaking them they should move pretty freely.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 19:36
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:As an aside, a cross-post from the 'what did you do to your ride today?' thread: I tried two different headlight restore kits today, one from a company called CCP (local NE Ohio company, found at Summit Racing) that used a drill attachment like the 3M kit you used and a Rain-X kit with hand-operated pads from the local Autozone but between the two of them I got jack poo poo in terms of gain. I even took the lenses off (yay for facelift sedans being easy) and brought them inside to work on at my desk for about an hour. I'm going to have to try the one you used next I guess, otherwise it looks like about $150 to replace them or around $600 to upgrade to projectors in the process.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 21:34
|
|
|
Is your greying due more to smogging, or scratches/pitting? I ended up buying new bosch lens covers from a group buy for $45 a few months ago after the rain X and the 3m didn't work. My originals were scratched to hell. Price of both almost equaled the OEM replacements (yes, I know its rare to find that price now). I've been doing OEM replacement a lot, instead of restoration, simply because my 2002 e46 M3 has had parts updates that I feel more comfortable with. Rubber, screws, plastic pieces, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 21:46
|
|
|
Brock Landers posted:I've never EVER heard a good outcome from dealing with a 3rd party warranty company. They'll cheerfully take your money and find any way in they can to not pay out including, in this case, outright lying. As a tech, I hated dealing with aftermarket warranties. They would use some shitdick universal flat-rate manual that was always much lower than BMW's system, or they would deny a claim over some stupid technicality (apparently, a final stage resistor is not the same as a fan speed control switch, even though it is  ).
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 22:01
|
|
|
wolrah posted:I tried two different headlight restore kits today, one from a company called CCP (local NE Ohio company, found at Summit Racing) that used a drill attachment like the 3M kit you used and a Rain-X kit with hand-operated pads from the local Autozone but between the two of them I got jack poo poo in terms of gain. I even took the lenses off (yay for facelift sedans being easy) and brought them inside to work on at my desk for about an hour. I'm going to have to try the one you used next I guess, otherwise it looks like about $150 to replace them or around $600 to upgrade to projectors in the process. The best, also most laborious method is using sandpaper. Plastic stores such as a local company, TapPlastics has a wide variety of paper selections. I helped a friend restore his lenses on his WRX (terrible amount of contours/curves to work around) and through 5 stages, ultimately ending on 2000/2500 wet, we had excellent results that really shined through after a polish/glazing compound.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 22:06
|
|
|
Alright, I got my car back from the dealer today. Apparently the play I have in my LCABs is normal. They put my car on a hoist and showed me what play was where, and then showed me an E46 (with liquid-filled bushings) and sure enough the play was similar. They also inspected (and allowed me to inspect) the steering guibo and the bentness of the rims. Overall I'm content now. The looseness I feel is either normal or a worn steering rack, which the tech said wasn't worn enough to warrant replacement. I highly recommend Basney BMW in South Bend for a BMW dealer. I also got a free car wash! Also, they do a headlight restoration available for $65 
CornHolio fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jun 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 00:30
|
|
|
Recently I found a 1987 325e coupe for sale at $1700 CDN. Black/black, sunroof, 167,000 miles, 5 speed. Anything I should know before I go look at it? I looked it up quite a bit and I see it comes with the 2.7 I6. E30's have notorious cooling systems that should be replaced every 50,000 miles too, right? I'll ask him about that. Just want a heads up on anything. I do all mechanical work myself so if parts aren't too expensive, it shouldn't be bad to work on.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 02:08
|
|
|
Thats like 20-30$ under just getting new lenses... Unless they are also refreshing the rubber seals/trim, too.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 02:09
|
|
|
MrZig posted:Recently I found a 1987 325e coupe for sale at $1700 CDN. Black/black, sunroof, 167,000 miles, 5 speed. Slap an I head on that sucker and you've got a hot little stroker 325. Otherwise, sounds good. Check the rust spots.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 02:24
|
|
|
madrugan posted:Is your greying due more to smogging, or scratches/pitting? I ended up buying new bosch lens covers from a group buy for $45 a few months ago after the rain X and the 3m didn't work. My originals were scratched to hell. Price of both almost equaled the OEM replacements (yes, I know its rare to find that price now). The bad areas look almost like the cracking of a dry lake bed, but it's so shallow I can barely even feel it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 06:30
|
|
|
I am about to hop in my new-to-me 89 325iS. Picked it up for $3940, 150k on it (FUNCTIONAL STOCK E30 ODOMETER, OH MY GOD [Knock on wood]), Z3 shifter, Wilwood brakes, 15" SpecE30-legal wheels, Bilstein HD's, and Cosmo springs with adjustable drop hats. I'm not thrilled about the spring setup, but it's growing on me.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 12:16
|
|
|
Just finished doing front pads and rotors on my e46 m3. This was the first DIY that I didn't hit a major issue on, though I haven't tried to drive yet so we'll see what happens. The only fun part was getting the old rotors off (took many hits with the dead blow hammer). Mad Russian's DIY guide was really helpful in case someone else is contemplating this job. ( http://m3.madrussian.net )
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 16:28
|
|
|
What a thread... New 330Xi owner here. 2006, 24k. But the radio's dead. Not knowing much about the MOST bus, I bought a used radio with no luck. Now, after reading a bit, I'm to understand that any device on the bus that is dead brings it all down. Now I do have access to and ODBII scanner. Will that help me isolate whether it's the L7 amp or the TCU? I do have the BMW assist error (Phone with slash thru it)  
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 17:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 01:16 |
|
|
You need a BMW diagnostic tool to find out what's wrong with the MOST bus. Buying a used control module is a gamble with newer BMWs, because they're usually married to the car when they're coded and programmed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 19:42
|
|