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Xenomrph posted:Sorry for the double-post - are there any handy guides for painting different kinds of WWII-era camo? Thanks again! I've seen stencils for sale, but buying decals would probably be cheaper if you don't need a lot.
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May 26, 2010 21:53
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Ensign Expendable posted:I've seen stencils for sale, but buying decals would probably be cheaper if you don't need a lot. edit-- checked Squadron.com, they had some decal sets that could work, but not in white.  They had white for drippy/messy numbers, but not for clean numbers like I'd want.
Xenomrph fucked around with this message at 22:19 on May 26, 2010 |
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May 26, 2010 22:04
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Well, my big project is nearly finished. Expect photos soon. In the mean time, random question: a random tip I heard for building say, a airplane, is to spray it with the color that the underlying metal is before painting over it. By doing this, you subtly change the finish on the paint on top, making it more realistic. Good idea/ bad idea? Also: sorry if this has been posted before: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxYRa0pqxlw (A model that took 12 years to make.)
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May 26, 2010 22:46
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Xenomrph posted:Either one would work, to be honest. Any idea where I could buy some? Like, would a hobby supply store have one? Online stores like the War Store, etc? Microscale.com has tons of numbers and alphabets in various colors (including white).
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May 27, 2010 08:13
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SkunkDuster posted:Microscale.com has tons of numbers and alphabets in various colors (including white).  Thanks!Also, any tips on types of sponges to use for painting weathering effects/rust, etc?
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May 27, 2010 09:50
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Xenomrph posted:Jackpot, awesome. Ask your female friends and relatives if they have some make-up sponges that they don't use anymore, or not to throw them away next time they are used up. Or just buy one yourself, if you want to spend the money.
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May 27, 2010 11:02
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Nebakenezzer posted:Well, my big project is nearly finished. Expect photos soon. In the mean time, random question: a random tip I heard for building say, a airplane, is to spray it with the color that the underlying metal is before painting over it. By doing this, you subtly change the finish on the paint on top, making it more realistic. Good idea/ bad idea? Basecoat colour does affect the final look of the topcoat colour, yes. Priming white or black gives a completely different finish, as does priming with a bright silver. Some of the light that would normally penetrate the topcoat (let's say blue) & be absorbed by the black primer will be reflected by the white (or silver) & shine back through, making the final top colour brighter (or slightly metallic-looking).
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May 27, 2010 18:43
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I've been doing a bit of weathering.   It might not be entirely realistic. I like to think of it as 'impressionist'. edit: 
Unkempt fucked around with this message at 15:57 on May 31, 2010 |
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May 29, 2010 11:31
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I also practiced my weathering/wear and tear/battle damage. I think I overdid it a bit.
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May 30, 2010 02:13
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Ensign Expendable posted:I also practiced my weathering/wear and tear/battle damage. I think it looks pretty good. There are still a few too many shiny bits. Though maybe that's just the camera?
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May 30, 2010 05:02
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It's a 1/76, so it's tiny. Spots that seem to be reflecting light like the one under the view port on the side are really hard to spot without magnification.
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May 30, 2010 05:25
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The Airfix German desert recon kit? I had good fun building those two cars.
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May 31, 2010 04:12
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Yeah, that's the one. I mostly have 1/35 models, but the German armoured cars are too nifty to miss, especially for five bucks.
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May 31, 2010 04:41
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There's a lot of really nice kits at 1:76 and 1:72 scale out there, and the difference at that size is comparatively minimal. They're cheap and good fun to build in an evening just to unwind or whatever.
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May 31, 2010 14:19
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Unkempt posted:I've been doing a bit of weathering. Ensign Expendable posted:I also practiced my weathering/wear and tear/battle damage.  Unrelated question, but does anyone have tips for doing "realistic" mud splatter on tanks? Like, on the treads, near tread guards, etc.
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May 31, 2010 18:31
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That's about as detailed as the model actually is. It's a pretty tiny and simple Airfix kit that's a couple of decades old by now. When I'm weathering tank tracks I tend to try work out what the likely path of mud and dust will be when kicked up by the movement of the tracks. Normally this ends up with me having a lot of forward-pointing slashes of mucky colours on the sides of the tank and up the back, unless the mud guards are really big.
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May 31, 2010 19:04
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Xenomrph posted:That looks really awesome. Can you give any tips on how you did the rust on the doors? Like, how did you achieve that effect, what colors did you use, etc. Thanks! I sprayed it all red-brown first for the basic colour, then put on a few small blobs of some nearly dried-out old dark yellow paint I've got and left that to dry. Gave it a bit of a sand with fine wet and dry, then put some Copydex (latex glue) over the rust spots. Spray the top coat, leave that to dry then just rub off the bits where the glue was. I did some dry brushing after that too. I need to make some windows for it but haven't got a clue how. I got some OHP acetate but I think it's too thin. I might just leave it as it is and pretend the windows are either broken or really, really clean.
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May 31, 2010 20:53
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Xenomrph posted:I think it looks pretty neat, but the paint almost looks a little thick - maybe it's just the camera, but the paint seems to be obscuring some of the sculpted details on the model (rivets, viewports, armor lines, etc). Like, I could understand that effect if you wanted the model to look like it just got towed out of a swamp after being submerged for 40 years or something, but I'm not sure if that's the effect you were going for. This is an old and pretty cheap kit. I don't even remember if the viewports actually had the slit on them or not. The detail is more visible in the back where there are hatches and exhaust vents.
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Jun 1, 2010 00:43
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It's too bad some Airfix kits are so old, they cover some subjects that are not done by anyone else. I think I may get their Short Sutherland, even though it's old and out of date.
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Jun 1, 2010 01:34
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Yeah, there are some very interesting old kits out there. I want the Zvezda cossacks kit, but it's not even on their website
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Jun 1, 2010 04:09
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Speaking of Russian makers and web sites, Amodel makes a ton of stuff - if you've ever wanted an eastern bloc plane, they probably make it - but they don't have any sort of web site.
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Jun 2, 2010 01:22
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Xenomrph posted:I think it looks pretty neat, but the paint almost looks a little thick - maybe it's just the camera, but the paint seems to be obscuring some of the sculpted details on the model (rivets, viewports, armor lines, etc). Like, I could understand that effect if you wanted the model to look like it just got towed out of a swamp after being submerged for 40 years or something, but I'm not sure if that's the effect you were going for.     Not hugely impressive, but given the age and the fact that it's at most three inches long it's well worth the price (5 bux, as part of a set).
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Jun 4, 2010 02:15
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Question, I need some 25-35mm diameter wheel/tyre combos, something like on that scout car above. I only need a couple, I'm in the UK, any suggestions?
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Jun 4, 2010 20:46
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Arquinsiel posted:Just because I was taking pictures of this lot anyway, here's the same car unpainted:
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Jun 7, 2010 10:52
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Are there acrylic paints out there that look "wet" after they dry? Like, if I wanted to paint "fresh blood" or "wet mud" on a model or something? Thanks! Ninja  -- Sorry about the double-post.
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Jun 7, 2010 21:42
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Go for gloss paint mixed with gloss medium on a matte surface to look wet. The gloss paint is shiny and the medium adds volume.
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Jun 7, 2010 22:36
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Xenomrph posted:So that front "license plate", was that a decal? Or did you hand-paint that? That kit comes with decals for the plates and the crosses. I got that effect by painting over the decal and then scraping the paint off with a knife.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:16
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Xenomrph posted:So that front "license plate", was that a decal? Or did you hand-paint that? http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~tuelean/Gallery/Miniatures/WIP/ShermanPlatoon/P1010004.JPG http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~tuelean/Gallery/Miniatures/WIP/ShermanPlatoon/P1010011.JPG The thumb is for scale, I swear.
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Jun 8, 2010 02:58
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Vaporware posted:Go for gloss paint mixed with gloss medium on a matte surface to look wet. The gloss paint is shiny and the medium adds volume. Future floor polish with a tiny amount of Simple Green is pure sex when it comes to making a finish look wet. It looks exactly the same fresh onto whatever you're coating with it as it does after curing. 
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Jun 9, 2010 01:39
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How many of you ever worked with making molds? I need to make copies of a M1A1 tank that is sized 1/160 for my military train. The only problem is I need about 30 tanks, and at 12.99 a pop its a little high. Any chance of making a copy using a resin product for cheaper than 12.99? I don't mind doing some clean up, as long as it doesn't take more than say 15 minutes per mold.
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Jun 9, 2010 06:38
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Depends, the mold kit will be around $30 and the resin will be $30. It's cheaper, but it may or may not turn out a very detailed product depending on how much time you spend setting up the mold. For a first timer, grab trial size smooth-on Oomoo(?) 1 to 1 ratio silicone and smoothcast 300 or 325 resin. TheFuglyStik posted:Future floor polish with a tiny amount of Simple Green is pure sex when it comes to making a finish look wet. It looks exactly the same fresh onto whatever you're coating with it as it does after curing. Never heard about the simple green addition, what does it modifiy?
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Jun 9, 2010 15:07
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BrokenKnucklez posted:How many of you ever worked with making molds?
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Jun 9, 2010 15:08
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Vaporware posted:
Simple green kills surface tension, which is why it is a good idea to add some kind of soap like simple green in the water you use to dilute paint. Personally I just paint Vallejo gloss varnish over the stuff I want to have a wet finish. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Jun 9, 2010 |
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Jun 9, 2010 15:21
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Arquinsiel posted:The internet says that these are a pretty good match at 1/160 scale. Thanks! My google-fu isn't the best, but hey, those should work and at 3.99 a piece is good enough for me. Just need to load em all up on flat cars now.
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Jun 10, 2010 17:40
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Thanks! My google-fu isn't the best, but hey, those should work and at 3.99 a piece is good enough for me. Just need to load em all up on flat cars now.
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Jun 11, 2010 02:27
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I just stumbled across this rust effects stuff, anyone know if it's any good/worth the money?
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Jun 13, 2010 07:48
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MIG stuff is good, but expensive.
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Jun 14, 2010 14:18
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Xenomrph posted:I just stumbled across this rust effects stuff, anyone know if it's any good/worth the money? Along those lines, I've been curious about RUSTALL. Anybody tried this stuff? Also where do you guys order your models online? I was looking for an AH-64D Apache and found a place that sold a nice looking kit (I think it was a Hasegawa) and when you selected the product, it showed accessories such as photo-etched brass parts available for the model you were looking at. Problem is, I can't remember what that site was.
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Jun 14, 2010 15:50
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Take that political correctness! I think it's from the mid ninties, but still.
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Jun 21, 2010 22:57
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Nebakenezzer posted:Take that political correctness! I don't get it.
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