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CornHolio posted:So there seems to be a huge Volvo junkyard at the following address (pull it up on Google Earth, it's awesome) Huh. This is about an hour away from me, never heard of it though. It would be great to find a place with an abundance of 240 parts in SW MI. I have yet to find a local yard with a 240 in it at all now that I think about it...
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Jun 21, 2010 04:32
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CornHolio posted:So there seems to be a huge Volvo junkyard at the following address (pull it up on Google Earth, it's awesome) That's Jim Corwin. He's a nut. My first 240 came from him. I think he is "retired" and no one has been able to make contact with him. I saw an ad or two on IPD offering Bertones for sale out of New Buffalo as the seller was "retiring." Tips on how to deal with him: don't be a woman; huge sexist. J-Cor Enterprises was his business name. I might be able to scrounge up an old phone number. I have a D-jet issue of my own (the 73 164E). Overheating, I suspect. Lost power on Michigan 12 on the way to a wedding. Thank goodness for AAA. I had it towed to the shop (then returned to start it up after the reception. I'm ordering replacement tstat and this advances my timetable for upgrading alternator and adding puller fans to place in front of the radiator. Any advice on any of this. Shoot.
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Jun 21, 2010 04:35
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Crispulus posted:
Megasquirt it.  I've been redlining my car more and more and it seems to perform better and run smoother every day. I guess I should stop babying cars.  Just ordered a set of silicon radiator hoses and head bolts. Gonna take the block to a machine shop to see if it needs to be re-bored. Gonna also replace the bearings and crank parts (at the shop, not gonna do it myself; gently caress that). Ordering an e-fan, Nippon-Denso 100A alternator, and IPD rear cam seal plate tomorrow. All I'm missing now is my intermediate shaft, square tooth crank gear, and crank position sensor (I have the bracket, just need the actual unit). Well, all I'm missing from what I don't know that I'm missing. Hah. Once everything is in my hands, parking the car and doing the swap. Once the engine runs, I'm gonna swap out the back end with a '93 end so my speedometer works. I wish you fucks lived closer to SoCal so I could have a hand to hold along the way. 
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Jun 22, 2010 10:12
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So, I've got a weird issue with my 245. When driving on roads that have fairly pronounced crowning or grooving as a result of wear, I get a moaning noise from my right front wheel that isn't dependent on speed-it just appears at one pitch and goes away when I turn the steering wheel slightly. Is this a symptom of a failing wheel bearing? It cropped up a couple months ago, and would only occur occasionally then, but on my drive back to school yesterday, it was nearly constant, and would only go away when the road curved enough to turn the wheel more than 10 degrees off center. On the plus side, my turbo parts pile keeps growing-I've got a nice braided stainless oil feed hose on the way, and I received a 5-bar oil pressure gauge and sender last week, so once I get my turbo (which is being reclocked, last I checked), I'll just need a return line, some intake hoses, a computer, and a downpipe. From an ignition standpoint, I think I'm going to use the Bosch distributor from my B21FT until I turn up the boost past stock levels. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Jun 22, 2010 |
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Jun 22, 2010 10:12
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Xovaan posted:
I know I'm quoting the SoCal Bricker but... I've noticed some serious MI and OH Brick-A-Goons about and I would just like to note that in August there will be some Volvos at the Gilmore in MI. HINT. http://vcoa.org/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=45
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Jun 23, 2010 07:29
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That VCOA page posted:Special How to Drive a Model T class Holy poo poo holy poo poo. Well, that's only... a couple thousand miles. 
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Jun 23, 2010 08:07
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Splizwarf posted:Holy poo poo holy poo poo. Well, that's only... a couple thousand miles. I saw that. I'm so excited for August.
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Jun 23, 2010 16:40
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The inline Fuel pump on my 89 240 stopped turning off after the key is removed. It used to run for about 15 seconds after the key was removed and now it is constant. I am thinking this must be the fuel pressure regulator but I just wanted to check with you guys in case there is a more likely culprit or if someone has experienced this before. Any one familiar with this? One additional note: the fuel pump relay system failed a few months ago. The problem turned out not to be the relay itself the the wire supplying ground to the relay. The fix was to cut the ground wire to the relay harness and screw that to the frame (the relay was also replaced).
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Jun 23, 2010 18:40
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ch1mp posted:The inline Fuel pump on my 89 240 stopped turning off after the key is removed. It used to run for about 15 seconds after the key was removed and now it is constant. I am thinking this must be the fuel pressure regulator but I just wanted to check with you guys in case there is a more likely culprit or if someone has experienced this before. Any one familiar with this? The FPR is a mechanical part and has no influence on whether the fuel pump runs or not. I'd be double-checking your relay circuit, since it should shut off immediately when the key is turned off. It sounds like you had some problems before that may or may not have been exacerbated by the repair.
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Jun 23, 2010 22:04
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82Daion posted:The FPR is a mechanical part and has no influence on whether the fuel pump runs or not. Any way, I swapped out the FPR from the parts car (I assume it was good) and still no change.
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Jun 24, 2010 04:04
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ch1mp posted:Oh. I guess I was assuming that the fuel pump has some sort of pressure activated switch that turns it off when it runs against too much pressure and that a bad FPR wouldn't allow sufficient pressure to activate that switch. Basically, when vacuum is applied to the FPR, it allows fuel to build to a certain pressure in the rail, and allows the excess to flow back to the tank. If it went bad, you'd have mixture issues, but the fuel pumps would still work just fine. In a 240, when you switch on the key, the fuel pumps turn on for a short interval to prime the system, and then shut off. When you start cranking the engine, the the relay switches on, and the fuel pumps start doing their thing. If the engine starts, they keep pumping. If the car doesn't start, the pumps shut off again. I don't have a wiring diagram for an LH2.4 car in front of me, but the fuel pump circuit in my bastard 240 is triggered by the coil being energized when you turn the key on/crank it. If the wire you moved around wasn't originally grounded to the body, it's quite possible that the circuit isn't triggering (or more accurately, de-triggering) any more.
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Jun 24, 2010 04:39
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ch1mp posted:The inline Fuel pump on my 89 240 stopped turning off after the key is removed. It used to run for about 15 seconds after the key was removed and now it is constant. I am thinking this must be the fuel pressure regulator but I just wanted to check with you guys in case there is a more likely culprit or if someone has experienced this before. Any one familiar with this? :we need a Gas Fight emoticon: 82Daion posted:In a 240, when you switch on the key, the fuel pumps turn on for a short interval to prime the system, and then shut off. ch1mp, does your car still do this correctly?
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Jun 24, 2010 09:45
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If it doesn't prime, try squeezing the fuel pump relay and it should fire. Of course that's if the FPR is bad.
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Jun 24, 2010 10:58
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Splizwarf posted:ch1mp, does your car still do this correctly? No. Right now it just runs constantly - key or not. I have to disconnect the battery when I park. Classy eh? I know that at some point it used to prime from key on and then stop when primed. To be honest, I can't remember if this still happened after I manually grounded the fuel pump relay harness but I think that it did. I did the relay harness at least 4 months ago and the only issue that I noticed during that time was about 15 seconds of fuel pump operation after key out. Splizwarf posted::we need a Gas Fight emoticon: 
ch1mp fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jun 24, 2010 |
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Jun 24, 2010 17:39
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Splizwarf posted::we need a Gas Fight emoticon: 
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Jun 24, 2010 20:27
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I'm looking at V70's and actually currently only finding XC70's. Are there any years to avoid? I've found a 98 (which i like alot), a 2002, and a 2004 so far.
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Jun 25, 2010 13:32
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zenless posted:I'm looking at V70's and actually currently only finding XC70's. Are there any years to avoid? I've found a 98 (which i like alot), a 2002, and a 2004 so far. Generally avoid '01 and '02, and '99-'00 to a lesser extent. '98 is considered a very good year, because it's the last year of the 850 platform before they started integrating everything electronically. The '98-'00 cars are just a facelifted 850, but the facelift is very nice. In '99 they switched to drive by wire and used a throttle body that is a guaranteed $500 failure at some point. They didn't fix that until 2003. They did extend the warranty to 10 years and 200k miles, but that's over for '99 and '00 cars. The automatic transmissions from '00 forward are recommended to never change the fluid, which means they all die fairly early as well, and this was made worse in '01 with the stop-neutral feature (car shifted into neutral at every stop, shifting back in when you pushed the gas). AWD models from all these years are extra money to maintain, the parts are expensive and are a little less reliable than they oughta be. I'd avoid one just for that reason. I love my '01 but it's a manual, and it's got a CEL for the throttle body problem right now. I'm waiting till I get back from Vacation to get it fixed.
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Jun 25, 2010 15:14
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zenless posted:I'm looking at V70's and actually currently only finding XC70's. Are there any years to avoid? I've found a 98 (which i like alot), a 2002, and a 2004 so far. Try to get an AWD one if you're OK with the mileage an AWD V70 gets. AWD V70 + iPD sway bars + Ram air intake + ECU upgrade = 
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Jun 25, 2010 15:35
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zenless posted:I'm looking at V70's and actually currently only finding XC70's. Are there any years to avoid? I've found a 98 (which i like alot), a 2002, and a 2004 so far. I had a 98 XC70 which was a good car but high on gas consumption. The MAF went 3 months in but was cheap to fix. I traded it for a manual 97 850 AWD and would have kept it if that car hadn't become available. I like the instrument layout and the body styling on the XC70 just a bit better than the 850s.
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Jun 25, 2010 18:29
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I've got a 98 S70 I love, just want to get the V70 instead of having to get a family minivan. And no the v70 wouldn't replace the s70, getting rid of another car that the V70 would ultimately replace. It'd be nice to have the two cars that take alot of similar parts. But based on what's been said i think i'll avoid the XC70. I don't see needing the AWD for anything. Even in our icy New England winter the S70 handles like a champ (though if i get enough for my 'old' car i plan on buying a sway bar for it). Until I can get my current car paid off and sold (paid off in a couple months i think), i'll just settle for looking at Volvo porn. I'm at work but now i really want to see what comes up when one googles 'volvo porn'.
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Jun 25, 2010 20:37
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zenless posted:I'm at work but now i really want to see what comes up when one googles 'volvo porn'. 
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Jun 25, 2010 22:44
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Money Walrus posted:Heh, I remember that picture from around something like 10 years ago. Unfortunately i'm convinced it was staged. Still fun though.
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Jun 25, 2010 23:16
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zenless posted:Heh, I remember that picture from around something like 10 years ago. Unfortunately i'm convinced it was staged. Still fun though. Considering there's absolutely no friction for the hands or body.. and I can see a belt outline - I'd say, yeah, that's a fairly safe bet.
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Jun 26, 2010 01:29
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ssh posted:Considering there's absolutely no friction for the hands or body.. and I can see a belt outline - I'd say, yeah, that's a fairly safe bet. Shush, you. Jeez.
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Jun 26, 2010 03:25
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Some of you may know I drive a 1996 850 GLT. I would have loved to go for a turbo or T5 model, but the GLT was free whereas the turbo was $6000 (I still have yet to pay for a single car I have owned). I don't want to bother selling the GLT for a turbo model, because I don't have THAT much spare money. However, if I could get a good deal on a new turbocharged engine I've got everything I need to do an engine swap. I know people have put Corvette V8's in their 850's before, is there any chance anyone here's done a Volvo engine swap? I'm just trying to find what there is out there that I could realistically get and put in my 850.
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Jun 26, 2010 19:26
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ACID POLICE posted:Some of you may know I drive a 1996 850 GLT. I would have loved to go for a turbo or T5 model, but the GLT was free whereas the turbo was $6000 (I still have yet to pay for a single car I have owned). Well your 850 is wrong wheel drive if you are planning a V8 swap (those v8 swaps you are thinking of are in 740's), unless you plan on redoing the entire rear end (You will find that the delta link rear suspension is an absolute bitch, which is why my car is on jack stands right now *shakes fist* ) There is a place called Erie Vovo (not a typo)that will sell you a white block for the cheapest I've found.... but you might as well just turbo the engine you got.
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Jun 26, 2010 20:23
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So, this is what I pulled off of my rear suspension in comparison to whats going in.... see something missing? AH! There it is! Still attached to the arm... Side view of the bushing in place  I managed to cut that out  But the bolt and the piece around it is still on and the head of the bolt is rounding. If there were a way to bring that arm out of the other arm, lower it and get something on there that way it would be much easier but I don't want to disassemble the entire rear end. Got any suggestions?
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Jun 26, 2010 20:32
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ACID POLICE posted:I'm just trying to find what there is out there that I could realistically get and put in my 850. Comedy option: riced-out Honda VTEC. Sviatoslav posted:the head of the bolt is rounding. Penetrating oil, heat, then vicegrips, a pair you don't mind hitting with a hammer. And a hammer, a metal one, at least 2 pounds. 3 pounds is better. Put them on oriented so that you can hit the big side, not the side that springs open. Put them on so tight you're hoping you don't break the hinge. Oh, and a new bolt.
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Jun 27, 2010 10:47
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Splizwarf posted:Comedy option: riced-out Honda VTEC. The problem is that its in here: and I can't fit a socket or vice grips in there. What I need to is loosen the arm and swing that part out to work on it with room. By the way that picture is no longer accurate. I cut away the rubber side of the bushing so its only the bolt going into the arm. Tomorrow should be a fun day. Anyone got advice on maneuvering the trail arm around with a minimal amount of work?
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Jun 27, 2010 18:41
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Sviatoslav posted:The problem is that its in here: Couldn't tell it was inside, my bad. Perspective is hard to figure out in that picture.
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Jun 27, 2010 20:53
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So it turns out that the fuel pump will not turn off if the fuel pump relay is FULL OF WATER!! wtf So a new relay returned the system to its previous state which is for the fuel pump to run for about 5 seconds after the key is removed. This does not seem correct. This leads me to believe that the green wire from the relay that I cut and hard grounded to the frame is in fact some kind of ground signal as opposed to a simple ground. I'm not great with wiring diagrams but that wire seems to be going to pin 20 of the computer - N on the diagram below:  Click here for the full 1136x1516 image. I am starting to conclude that my computer is borked. 
ch1mp fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jun 28, 2010 |
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Jun 28, 2010 03:05
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ch1mp posted:So it turns out that the fuel pump will not turn off if the fuel pump relay is FULL OF WATER!! The relay in question is your main relay, not a fuel pump relay, although it does control the pump. That blue wire with a green stripe (or green with blue, as it may be) should not be grounded to the chassis at all, as it appears to be providing power or signal (through a diode in the relay) to your injectors, MAF, and IAC. Or something like that. Regardless of its function, it needs to be reconnected to the relay harness. quote:One additional note: the fuel pump relay system failed a few months ago. The problem turned out not to be the relay itself the the wire supplying ground to the relay. The fix was to cut the ground wire to the relay harness and screw that to the frame (the relay was also replaced). In light of the info in your last post, I want to revisit this. I'm very interested in what you mean by "the fuel pump relay system failed." What symptoms led you to that conclusion, and what led you to believe that grounding that particular wire would fix it? SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Jun 28, 2010 |
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Jun 28, 2010 05:51
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82Daion posted:In light of the info in your last post, I want to revisit this. I'm very interested in what you mean by "the fuel pump relay system failed." What symptoms led you to that conclusion, and what led you to believe that grounding that particular wire would fix it? Sure, but I'd like to qualify that this is all new to me and I'm learning as I go - I make no claim of automotive competency. So last winter the car died while driving. There was no power supply to fuel pump at the fuse block. I was able to get the car home by jumping power from the blower motor fuse power to the fuel pump fuse power. After some internet research on similar problems, the fuel pump (or main) relay was nominated as a likely culprit. I installed a new relay with no result so I had a friend who is a mechanic come and look at it. He determined that the relay was not receiving ground on the appropriate pin (pin 2 I believe)and therefore not allowing power to the fuel pump. His solution was to cut the green wire feeding into the relay wiring harness and attach it to a screw on the body of the car so as to ground it. This did indeed allow the car to run without jumping fuel pump power at the fuse box. At the time I considered it solved and thought no more of it until this recent problem of the fuel pump running continuously. In hindsight I see now that this was a simple minded approach: alldata posted:The system relay (located behind passenger side kick panel) is a combined function relay. It combines the fuel pump and fuel injection relay into one unit. The system relay provides current to the fuel pumps, suppressor relay, idle air valve, air mass meter, oxygen sensor pre-heating resistor and to other ECU controlled functions or components. This leads me to believe that the ecu is at fault - unless it is something to do with the engine speed signal but I don't see how that would account for the original failure when the fuel pump would not even prime.
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Jun 28, 2010 19:10
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Was representin' with a '93 940 Wagon. Owned it for half a year before it threw a rod at the worst possible time imaginable, and I had to just scrap the entire thing because I literally didn't have time to worry about it. Replaced it with a Ford Explorer which isn't 1/1000 as awesome. Plus it was a beast for carrying my hockey equipment around. It was slow, handled like a boat, had an ugly blue interior, but something about it made it my favourite car to date. On the upside, the mechanic I sold it to said he was going to fix it up nice for his daughter so that was pretty  Really hope to ditch this Explorer and get back into a brick again soon. Something in an 850 mmmm yes please! some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jun 29, 2010 |
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Jun 29, 2010 01:00
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Fun story. I was driving to work when I noticed my battery wasn't receiving a charge. After I parked I tried to turn on again to see if I should call the sec. dept. to jump me for the road home trip, no go. I look at the belts and sure enough they are a little on the loose and brittle side. I ordered replacements and had security jump me for the home trip. I didn't want to have it die in traffic so I kept revving it high at lights and such. When I got home I went to pop the hood so I could trickle charge it and noticed the exhaust to the turbo and the turbo were bright freaking orange. That actually was a little cool.
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Jun 29, 2010 06:06
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Martytoof posted:it threw a rod at the worst possible time imaginable, and I had to just scrap the entire thing because I literally didn't have time to worry about it. A story! 
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Jun 29, 2010 06:06
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Driving to a wedding. Didn't make wedding  Not MY wedding Also was moving between houses so I really just needed a car that worked and I didn't really have the time to arrange a motor swap. Had it towed from the interstate to a Volvo mechanic who gave me an estimate and a timeframe, but then offered me something like 1400 when I told him I'd probably just have to buy something else to move my stuff. Interestingly enough I only paid 1800 for it to begin with so I was happy to take his offer. The car was pretty much in amazing condition though, other than a giant hole in the engine block, so I didn't feel too bad taking his money.
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Jun 29, 2010 06:19
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ch1mp posted:
Well, it wouldn't hurt to check the wire that provides that signal-if the computer can't tell that the engine is spinning, then it won't turn on the pumps. That's one of the things that the ECU uses that signal for, if it's anything like LH2.2. Crispulus posted:I didn't want to have it die in traffic so I kept revving it high at lights and such. When I got home I went to pop the hood so I could trickle charge it and noticed the exhaust to the turbo and the turbo were bright freaking orange. Must be a K-Jet thing-my friend's 245T does the same thing when it's under heavy load.
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Jun 29, 2010 06:25
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Crispulus posted:Fun story. I was driving to work when I noticed my battery wasn't receiving a charge. After I parked I tried to turn on again to see if I should call the sec. dept. to jump me for the road home trip, no go. I look at the belts and sure enough they are a little on the loose and brittle side. I ordered replacements and had security jump me for the home trip. Pics next time.
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Jun 29, 2010 22:28
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I just seem to be King Annoying-Problem Day. All of Pearl's (1973 164E) driver side running lights are out. The one on the bumper, the two side lights, and the rear light. WTF?! I discovered this at 1150PM so I really hope this is a fuse issue when I wake up tomorrow. Also, If I was a philander (read: I have a good thing going) I would have completely been laid by two hippies chicks that fell in love with Pearl as I pulled up to a beer garden / Irish-style pub. Ether Frenzy posted:Pics next time. I didn't think of it until it almost went back to dark, and all I had was a camera phone. I sent it to my email and tried to make it more clear but.. it isn't really happening. I have half a mind to intentionally do this but I have a feeling it would be a bad idea. Here's what I got anyways; 
Crispulus fucked around with this message at 09:52 on Jun 30, 2010 |
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Jun 30, 2010 09:10
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