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I may be imagining things but was there not a recall to fix an issue where the mirror could fall out, sounds like this may be the issue or your shutter has failed?
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Jun 14, 2010 17:10
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Wooten posted:Did the mirror fall out? Upon a closer look and a bit of searching - yeah, i believe it is the mirror. I don't know how it came detached as there's no sign of damage around it or anything.
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Jun 14, 2010 17:13
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Nausea posted:Upon a closer look and a bit of searching - yeah, i believe it is the mirror. I don't know how it came detached as there's no sign of damage around it or anything. Known issue. Canon will fix it.
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Jun 14, 2010 17:17
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Nausea posted:I don't know if this thread is the place to ask, but i couldn't figure out a better place. My camera is hosed up and i'm curious about a few things. You have to send it in to Canon for the mirror reinforcement, it's an issue with the 5d ones. http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=715155 http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/840032 http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2699/4047679861_115cda0b16_o.jpg Picture of what it looks like^ e: God drat you guys are fast.
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Jun 14, 2010 17:19
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Holy poo poo, that's a huge relief. I thought i just had terrible luck. Although, i guess it doesn't really change my luck that much. Thanks for the fast help.
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Jun 14, 2010 17:33
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Nausea posted:I was in the middle of a shot, when i heard a loud snap out of loving nowhere. It appears something came disconnected. I have no idea what i'm really talking about, but it's a small, square piece of glass with an equal section of black rubber-like material that comes out with it. The strange thing is, it still took a photo after this, though not a normal one. Yes, that was a poor description. Did the glass fall out of the lens mount, or out of the viewfinder? How big is "small"? Does anything look significantly different inside the camera? What is "not a normal photo"? I'm betting it's the little piece of half-mirror that sits under the main mirror and reflects light into the AF sensors. [e] beaten. but, dude: why can't you identify the mirror in your SLR? Do you never take the lens off? Do you have no idea how an SLR works? [e2] durrr, superbeaten. Didn't see it was a new page 
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Jun 15, 2010 04:20
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I'm looking at doing some very long time lapses at night to try and get the whole earth/stars spinning feel. However after only a relatively short time there is the problem of dew or condensation forming on the lens/camera. How can I combat this? Simply wiping the lens won't really work because its going to move the camera and I really dont want to have to sit next to it the entire time.
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Jun 17, 2010 11:40
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Fists Up posted:I'm looking at doing some very long time lapses at night to try and get the whole earth/stars spinning feel. However after only a relatively short time there is the problem of dew or condensation forming on the lens/camera. How can I combat this? Simply wiping the lens won't really work because its going to move the camera and I really dont want to have to sit next to it the entire time. How long is very long and where do you live? Condensation is caused by air cooling in the area of an object causing it to be oversaturated with water and causes the water to seek a place to deposit itself. If your camera is warmer than the surroundings, it won't condense (unless it's just extreme! humidity) I have shot 2 hours of long exposure on a tripod in the fall in the midwest and not had an issue. I could see just after a storm on a hot muggy night in Florida being a different issue.
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Jun 17, 2010 14:30
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I'm in Sydney and I'm talking over a number of hours. Its just that once the sun starts rising theres pretty much water everywhere.
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Jun 18, 2010 07:11
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Fists Up posted:I'm in Sydney and I'm talking over a number of hours. Its just that once the sun starts rising theres pretty much water everywhere. As the temp starts to rise (as the sun rises) that's when you get the real condensation. I wouldn't worry about it that much. Just stay in the area, and check it every 5-15 minutes and you should be fine. You really shouldn't leave your camera unattended overnight anyway. If you are in a civilized area, I'd be worried about someone walking off with your gear. If you aren't, I'd be worried about animals loving with your gear.
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Jun 18, 2010 13:18
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KennyG posted:As the temp starts to rise (as the sun rises) that's when you get the real condensation. I wouldn't worry about it that much. Just stay in the area, and check it every 5-15 minutes and you should be fine. Over the course of a one hour shot of the moon setting over the bay, I had to keep leaving the van and going back to literally kick away a large banana rat that just wouldn't leave me or my gear alone. I don't get more than a few seconds away from my tripod ever.
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Jun 18, 2010 13:42
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It would be sitting in the backyard. Where no one can really see it. Unless there's people who like to go walking through people's houses at 4am. As for animals...there might be a curious possum who wouldn't do much. Or if a bat flew overhead and did a big poo poo on it 
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Jun 19, 2010 00:54
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TheAngryDrunk posted:A parfocal lens retains its focus when zooming in or out. Almost all lenses today are parfocal. My F-mount Tamron 17-50 isn't parfocal for one. It's quite easy to spot: it autofocuses past the infinity marking at 17mm, but it's right on at 50.
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Jun 20, 2010 22:06
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I just got my Canon S90 today, so now to learn to use it. Starting as a total beginner, should I just get the two books at the end of the op? I'm just looking for one or two sources.
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Jun 24, 2010 05:23
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idiotsavant posted:I just got my Canon S90 today, so now to learn to use it. Starting as a total beginner, should I just get the two books at the end of the op? I'm just looking for one or two sources. Get understanding exposure which does a very good job of explaining things like ISO and Aperture. Then just read your manual!
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Jun 24, 2010 06:49
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Fists Up posted:Get understanding exposure which does a very good job of explaining things like ISO and Aperture. Then just read your manual! You beat me to it. Reading the manual is great, because while it doesn't tell you everything, it at least puts some good questions in your mind (usually along the lines of 'why don't you explain this better?' or 'where the hell is the rest of the information about this feature?') and you can search for the answers elsewhere.
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Jun 24, 2010 07:49
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SquallStrife posted:That only works with linear polarisers.
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Jun 24, 2010 23:04
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Friend is in need of a point and shoot in the $300-350 range, doesn't care about brand. Hopefully something that'll give her some manual capabilities, but I doubt she'll care so it's not vital. Recommendations?
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Jun 25, 2010 19:51
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Canon S90 or SD4000IS fits the bill
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Jun 25, 2010 20:29
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jackpot posted:Friend is in need of a point and shoot in the $300-350 range, doesn't care about brand. Hopefully something that'll give her some manual capabilities, but I doubt she'll care so it's not vital. Recommendations? You finally motivated me. I just put together a quick "What P&S should I buy" thread since I've seen that question come up every few days for the last six months.
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Jun 26, 2010 07:01
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Hey all, just a quick question that I'm sure many of you wise photography/videography people have a quick answer to. How can I get a bird's eye view (i.e., straight down) angle on a tripod? Is it possible or would I need to get a different piece of equipment? I've seen a tripod on Amazon that has a center column that will bend horizontally when at maximum height, but it costs $150 and doesn't come with a head (Link). One site I checked out suggested removing the vertical extension rod most tripods have and inverting it, but the picture on their website made it look like there would be hardly, if any, room for the camera to tilt downwards and face the ground. Any help is appreciated!
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Jun 26, 2010 10:13
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Scarboy posted:Canon S90 or SD4000 fits the bill I would go for the SD4000 if you care about video - 720p vs the S90's VGA. The SD4000 also has a super slow-mo mode, about 3.5fps continuous shooting at full res and other nifty features. Basically S90 = last year's model, SD4000 = cutting edge tech, with a backlit sensor. Only thing the S90 trumps the SD4000 on is RAW - which the SD4000 doesn't have. Over here in Eurotrashland it's called the IXUS 300 HS...
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Jun 26, 2010 10:49
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hypernova posted:Hey all, just a quick question that I'm sure many of you wise photography/videography people have a quick answer to. How can I get a bird's eye view (i.e., straight down) angle on a tripod? Is it possible or would I need to get a different piece of equipment? I've seen a tripod on Amazon that has a center column that will bend horizontally when at maximum height, but it costs $150 and doesn't come with a head (Link). One site I checked out suggested removing the vertical extension rod most tripods have and inverting it, but the picture on their website made it look like there would be hardly, if any, room for the camera to tilt downwards and face the ground. The more you want it to do, the more expensive the tripod will be. But, if the center extension is reversible, you can "hang" the camera from the tripod, letting you shoot straight down. The horizontal extenders, like mine has are good, but they unbalance the tripod, so the legs have to be very widely spread.
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Jun 26, 2010 17:28
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Also depending on how wide your lens is, you'll have to worry about getting your tripod legs in the shot.
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Jun 26, 2010 17:31
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I've got a question about DSLR sensor damage. I cleaned the sensor a couple of weeks ago, and I tested it to find there were still specks of dirt in the picture. So I cleaned it a second time, and now I've got U-shaped streaks in the centre of my pictures. Is it worth cleaning my sensor for a third time, or do those streaks mean that I've just destroyed my camera? To be honest, I won't be too gutted if I have to shell out for a new camera. It's a Nikon D40x, and if I'd read this forum when looking for my first DSLR I would have bought something else.
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Jun 27, 2010 16:51
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Does anyone know any good places to get a photo book printed? I have looked at shutterfly, photoworks, the kodak gallery site, and a bunch of others, but most of them all seem to be 8 x 11 with default cheesy layouts. I just want a nice coffee table hard cover photo book of some sort.
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Jun 27, 2010 19:02
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Pickman posted:I've got a question about DSLR sensor damage. I cleaned the sensor a couple of weeks ago, and I tested it to find there were still specks of dirt in the picture. So I cleaned it a second time, and now I've got U-shaped streaks in the centre of my pictures. How did you clean it?
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Jun 27, 2010 19:50
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evil_bunnY posted:My F-mount Tamron 17-50 isn't parfocal for one. It's quite easy to spot: it autofocuses past the infinity marking at 17mm, but it's right on at 50. My Canon EF 28-135 has different markings for a range of focal lengths. The kit Canon 18-55 and EF Tamron 17-50 seem to stay focused if you zoom though.
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Jun 27, 2010 21:11
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dakana posted:How did you clean it? I used a sensor cleaning solution and some cleaning swabs. I opened the camera, used a rocket blower to clear away dust and applied the solution to the swabs before cleaning the sensor. I'm being optimistic and hoping that the streaks are the result of solution residue, and not scratches.
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Jun 27, 2010 21:14
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I know its been mentioned a lot, but I took some pretty good panda pictures in China and I wanted to sell some of them... would microstock sites be the best option? Which one would be the best and should I do RF?
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Jun 27, 2010 23:29
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Pickman posted:I used a sensor cleaning solution and some cleaning swabs. I opened the camera, used a rocket blower to clear away dust and applied the solution to the swabs before cleaning the sensor. I'm being optimistic and hoping that the streaks are the result of solution residue, and not scratches. They could be scratches but it's unlikely. Are they actual lint-free sensor-cleaning swabs, or are you using Q-tips or something? The strategy for cleaning a sensor is wipe once with one side of the swab, flip over, wipe with the other, discard. Anything else and you're just redistributing the dust. U-shaped streaks sounds like there was some organic residue that got smeared. Take a look at the sensor and see if you can see it. I was examining the sensor of my 300D once and absentmindedly blew on it  and got a tiny little drop of saliva on it. It hardened in place and I had to actually scrub at it with an overly-wet swab, but it eventually dissolved off without scratching the filter.
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Jun 28, 2010 01:51
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Munkaboo posted:I know its been mentioned a lot, but I took some pretty good panda pictures in China and I wanted to sell some of them... would microstock sites be the best option? Which one would be the best and should I do RF? "Best microstock" is kind of a booby prize, you might try Getty through Flickr but even that's not a great commission rate. I'd personally rather not sell my images at all than offer them through microstock; it's a poo poo thing to do to the industry and I value my images more than their rates.
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Jun 28, 2010 02:34
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Munkaboo posted:I know its been mentioned a lot, but I took some pretty good panda pictures in China and I wanted to sell some of them... would microstock sites be the best option? Which one would be the best and should I do RF? If you've got a bunch of stuff, I'd try Alamy. You need a relatively large starting collection, though, and they're anal about not wanting near-identical images. So if you've got a bunch of similar images of pandas and that's it... not the best choice. With more breadth, though, Alamy's a pretty decent agency and pays a good commission. If you're on PhotoShelter, you can always sell there on your own, and also see if there are any virtual agencies where they might be a good fit. Edit: Looks like Alamy slimmed down their starting requirements considerably. You'll still have better results if you've got a lot of stuff, but you need a whopping 4 images to open an account now. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Jun 28, 2010 |
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Jun 28, 2010 02:48
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I have been with several stock agencies and all I can say is that Getty is the only one that's ever written me a check on a regular basis. With 60ish images I average ~$100/mo with 2-4 sales. Sometimes less, sometimes a lot more, but pretty consistent. 30% of something is a lot better than a 100% of zero. Also Getty is pretty zero-effort because they do the keywording for you. I had a collection with Masterfile a few years ago and sold close to nothing. Same images on Getty sell on a regular basis. Alamy is totally worthless, as is any unedited collection. Photoshelter is good if you have a small niche and market it to clients who buy that kind of work.
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Jun 28, 2010 03:32
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orange lime posted:They could be scratches but it's unlikely. Are they actual lint-free sensor-cleaning swabs, or are you using Q-tips or something? The strategy for cleaning a sensor is wipe once with one side of the swab, flip over, wipe with the other, discard. Anything else and you're just redistributing the dust. Thanks, that might be it actually. I'll try cleaning it again - maybe the rocket blower didn't get rid of the dust, or maybe it blew dust onto the sensor. I used lint-free swabs, but is it possible to use Q-Tips without scratching the sensor? I've run out of swabs, but I have loads of Q-tips for some reason, I thought it might be good to put them to use.
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Jun 28, 2010 10:50
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Pickman posted:I used lint-free swabs, but is it possible to use Q-Tips without scratching the sensor? I've run out of swabs, but I have loads of Q-tips for some reason, I thought it might be good to put them to use. You won't scratch anything probably, but Q-tips leave huge amounts of tiny particles that tear away as you scrub. So don't use Q-tips
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Jun 28, 2010 13:10
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Pickman posted:Thanks, that might be it actually. I'll try cleaning it again - maybe the rocket blower didn't get rid of the dust, or maybe it blew dust onto the sensor. Also, oil. You can pick up oil inside the camera, and spread it around...if you don't carefully put the swabs straight in and on to the glass. Get some swabs made for your sensor size, don't use qtips.
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Jun 28, 2010 14:14
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MythObstacleIV posted:Does anyone know any good places to get a photo book printed? I have looked at shutterfly, photoworks, the kodak gallery site, and a bunch of others, but most of them all seem to be 8 x 11 with default cheesy layouts. I just want a nice coffee table hard cover photo book of some sort. jackpot fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jun 28, 2010 |
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Jun 28, 2010 15:49
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MythObstacleIV posted:Does anyone know any good places to get a photo book printed? I have looked at shutterfly, photoworks, the kodak gallery site, and a bunch of others, but most of them all seem to be 8 x 11 with default cheesy layouts. I just want a nice coffee table hard cover photo book of some sort. jackpot posted:I used blurb.com when creating a wedding book for my family, and they do a nice job. They won't be professional quality (i.e. if you do a $3,000 wedding they're probably going to expect better than this), but neither is the price. If I remember right a 40-page, 13x11" book cost around $60, and ours looked real nice, no flaws. You download their layout program and once you get the hang of it you can put pages together in any kind of custom layout you want. I had pretty much the same experience with adoramapix. Same price range and quality to do a wedding album with custom layout and multiple size options.
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Jun 28, 2010 17:18
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I just got a SB600 to use with my D70 and it came with one of those cap diffuser things that I always use, but the SB600 has one of those wide-flash adapters that pops out. My question is, should I use the wideflash adapter underneath the diffuser cap thing (what's the real name?) What exactly does the wide-flash adapter accomplish? I know that it sets the SB focal length to 14mm by default, but I don't really understand what it actually does, and how useful it is?
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Jun 30, 2010 02:10
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