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What sort of woodworking do you want to do? I'd jump on the bandsaw over a scroll saw but it depends what materials and the size of materials you're going to use.
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Jun 25, 2010 15:00
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Not an Anthem posted:What sort of woodworking do you want to do? I'd jump on the bandsaw over a scroll saw but it depends what materials and the size of materials you're going to use. Beginner projects, for now. Shelves, cutting boards, such as that. Nothing too major or fancy until I at least get the hang of it. I would eventually like to move on to bigger things, however.
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Jun 25, 2010 16:00
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Getting decent in my wood turning classes, almost done turning my first bowl in some cracked spalted white oak, teacher said he doesn't think he got as nice a finish his first try on a bowl which is 99% bullshit because the guy can turn a bowl with his toenails asleep, but its a really nice confidence bolstering compliment. Doing my first projects in the spindle class and later do some tool handles and he's been talking about some DIY HSS tool making..
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Jun 26, 2010 01:04
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Devorum posted:I'm considering getting into woodworking now that I have the space to do so, and am wondering what is required for an initial set up. My order of importance given those choices would be: Table saw, band saw, planer, miter saw, belt/disk, RAS, scroll saw. You might not even want the RAS at all depending on the model. There are some dangerous and/or lovely ones out there.
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Jun 27, 2010 02:46
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Devorum posted:I'm considering getting into woodworking now that I have the space to do so, and am wondering what is required for an initial set up. Radial arm saws are one of those machines that people seem to either love or fear, I love them although I don't currently own one. Take it all if you have room, if not, then my preference would be: table saw, belt/disc sander, planer, miter saw, band saw, then radial arm saw. Scroll saws are something you either need or you don't; they never just 'come in handy'.
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Jun 27, 2010 07:29
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wormil posted:Radial arm saws are one of those machines that people seem to either love or fear, I love them although I don't currently own one. Take it all if you have room, if not, then my preference would be: table saw, belt/disc sander, planer, miter saw, band saw, then radial arm saw. Scroll saws are something you either need or you don't; they never just 'come in handy'. Ok, I think I'm going to go with the table saw for now. It's probably the best deal out of the lot, as well. It's equivalent to this model: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921833000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType= His has more HP, and he is selling it to me for less than half the price he paid a few years ago.
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Jun 27, 2010 15:53
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I'm looking to pick up a router and there are a few different models I've been eyeballing. I'm hoping you fine people can help point me in the right direction - The contestants are: http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-690LR-Amp-Fixed-Base-Router/dp/B00005QEVQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277688566&sr=1-5 http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5615-24-1-75-Horsepower-Multi-Base-BodyGrip/dp/B000QV35AK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277688566&sr=1-3 http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVS-2-1-Variable-Speed-Router/dp/B00004TKHV/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277688566&sr=1-9
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Jun 28, 2010 03:51
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WildFoxMedia posted:I'm looking to pick up a router and there are a few different models I've been eyeballing. I'm hoping you fine people can help point me in the right direction - The contestants are: Unless this is going to be dedicated onto a router table, you really want to have a plunge router option. Otherwise you'll be buying another router in fairly short order.
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Jun 28, 2010 04:17
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Anubis posted:Unless this is going to be dedicated onto a router table, you really want to have a plunge router option. Otherwise you'll be buying another router in fairly short order. So would the Milwaukee work then? It includes both plunge and fixed bases.
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Jun 28, 2010 04:27
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ChaoticSeven posted:There are some dangerous and/or lovely ones out there. There is such a thing as a non-dangerous RAS? I figured they were called Radical Harm Saws for a reason. Radio Alarm Saw  WildFoxMedia posted:So would the Milwaukee work then? It includes both plunge and fixed bases. Not saying the Milwaukee won't work, but Porter Cable also makes a fixed/plunge kit for the 690 series of routers. The thing I like about 690 series is that it is the standard when it comes to routers, so almost every accessory you can think of will fit without using any adapters. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Jun 28, 2010 |
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Jun 28, 2010 04:54
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WildFoxMedia posted:I'm looking to pick up a router and there are a few different models I've been eyeballing. I'm hoping you fine people can help point me in the right direction - The contestants are: I have the Milwaukee, it's a good router. It comes with clear sub-bases, which are really nice with my Leigh dovetail jig. That kit was below $100 last fall, so you might wait a bit if you're not in a hurry. The next time it gets that low I may buy another one so I can have one dedicated to the dovetail jig.
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Jun 28, 2010 12:11
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SkunkDuster posted:There is such a thing as a non-dangerous RAS? I figured they were called Radical Harm Saws for a reason. Plenty. Old Dewalt cast iron saws, Delta/Rockwell Turret Saws (12" or larger), any almost any of the European varieties like Maggi, Stromab, etc. Radial arm saws usually are considered dangerous because the Sears Etc. Marketing Machine did its best to sell as many as possible to people who did not know how to use them (average consumers) and told these people that they could do everything (not exactly false, but also not exactly safe). A quality heavy radial arm saw is a fantastic machine for crosscuts, ripping, and molding/shaping. Lightweight RAS's are pretty worthless in my opinion. The things that normally scare the poo poo out of people: 1. Having the saw "run" at you while crosscutting. The problem here is either incorrect alignment of the carriage, yoke, or arm (or a combination) and/or using an improper blade. RAS crosscuts should be made with a negative hook blade preferably, and a 5 degree hook at maximum (not recommended by me). 2. Kickback while ripping. This is from incorrect blade alignment, plain old wood tension, bad technique, or trying to rip a piece that is too short. For boards with high tension, consider rough-ripping them on the bandsaw and then using the RAS or TS to perform a finish trimming rip. For all else, use your anti-kickback devices and make sure things are aligned properly. Notice how proper alignment features prominently in the two areas that cause people the most trouble. Also notice the tendency of humans to ignore the instruction manuals that come with the items they buy. This is why people are scared of Radial Arm Saws. Back to the original poster's question about what items to get, my preference would be: RAS (as long as it isn't a crap one), Planer, Bandsaw
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Jun 28, 2010 18:21
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Table Update: Pretty much done all of the fabrication, just have alot of cleanup to do. Pretty disappointed in my table saw, I have a ton of chipout issues on the shoulders of my tenons (the corners) due to misalignment or a dull blade. Not a big deal, I can just put them in unseen areas, but still annoying. I have some tenons to beef up due to loose fits as well. 
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Jun 29, 2010 15:05
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MarshallX posted:Table Update: That table looks incredible. I may have missed it earlier in the thread so I apologize if I am asking a question you already answered, but what kind of wood is that?
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Jun 29, 2010 19:31
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WildFoxMedia posted:That table looks incredible. I may have missed it earlier in the thread so I apologize if I am asking a question you already answered, but what kind of wood is that? Solid Walnut with some Burl at the end
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Jun 29, 2010 19:45
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Why would a radial arm saw be more scary than a tablesaw? It seems to me that as long as you keep your limbs out of the path of the blade carriage, you'll be ok no matter what happens, whereas with a tablesaw, you have to actually push your workpiece (and by extension, your hands) towards the blade, making accidents far more likely.
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Jun 29, 2010 23:39
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nobody- posted:Why would a radial arm saw be more scary than a tablesaw? It seems to me that as long as you keep your limbs out of the path of the blade carriage, you'll be ok no matter what happens, whereas with a tablesaw, you have to actually push your workpiece (and by extension, your hands) towards the blade, making accidents far more likely. Don't use that "logic" stuff anywhere near a woodworking forum, frustration will be the only result.
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Jun 30, 2010 00:20
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WildFoxMedia posted:I'm looking to pick up a router and there are a few different models I've been eyeballing. I'm hoping you fine people can help point me in the right direction - The contestants are: I've got the Porter Cable one (with both bases) and like it a lot. When ever you can, don't spend the money on a brand new one. Search for reconditioned ones from the factory. Usually 20-30% cheaper and basically the same warranty. If I can find factory reconditioned I always do that and have never (knock on wood) had a problem. I think they actually are better than brand new because instead of a machine or low paid worker just assembling parts you get one that a person with more skill/experience has taken apart and replaced parts and tested. At least thats what I tell myself, ymmv. Porter factory recon $30 cheaper http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Porter-Cable-693LRPKR-Router-Plunge/dp/B001BK6HU0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277957191&sr=1-6
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Jul 1, 2010 05:17
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I got this Delta jointer for free. I can't find a model number anywhere so I'm going to call Delta to see if they can tell me. Does this look like it's worth cleaning up and making space for?  
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Jul 2, 2010 14:40
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 Click here for the full 540x720 image. tadaaaa curly maple
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Jul 3, 2010 02:08
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Elston Gunn posted:I got this Delta jointer for free. I can't find a model number anywhere so I'm going to call Delta to see if they can tell me. Does this look like it's worth cleaning up and making space for? Restoring old machines is a hobby unto itself and hobbies often defy logic. It's something I might like to do one day. I can't comment on this specific machine but there is a whole forum of guys who can... http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net/
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Jul 3, 2010 07:44
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wormil posted:Restoring old machines is a hobby unto itself and hobbies often defy logic. It's something I might like to do one day. I can't comment on this specific machine but there is a whole forum of guys who can... Also check out http://www.owwm.org for more active forums, and the sister site, OWWM.com for info about specific old machines.
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Jul 3, 2010 16:20
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GEMorris posted:Also check out http://www.owwm.org for more active forums, and the sister site, OWWM.com for info about specific old machines. That was the one I was looking for, I had forgotten the link and grabbed the wrong one off google.
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Jul 3, 2010 23:51
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Any tips/tricks on drilling a long hole through a 2x4? The piece is 32 inches long. Longest bit I could find in 1/4 inch was 18 inches without paying a stupid price for something I just need to drill 4 through holes with. So I need to not only drill a long, straight hole but from each direction meeting in the middle like a dang TBM making a tunnel. I'm thinking of using a few carpenter's squares clamped onto the wood to give me a guide to keep the drill straight (don't have tall drill press). Any other ideas?
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Jul 5, 2010 23:11
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Tindjin posted:Any tips/tricks on drilling a long hole through a 2x4? rip a slightly oversized board in two. dado out the hole that you need, then carefully align the pieces and glue it back together. Anything else seems like lunacy.
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Jul 5, 2010 23:18
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Why do you need a 32" hole? There's probably a really easy way to do what you want.
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Jul 6, 2010 02:18
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Not an Anthem posted:Why do you need a 32" hole? There's probably a really easy way to do what you want. It's to fit a 5/16 threaded rod (drill bit is actually 3/8 not 1/4) for a contraption that I'm making. It's basically a vertical frame that will be moved up/down. I could mount them outside of the frame and use a guide rod but want them to go through the wood for astetics.
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Jul 6, 2010 04:20
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Tindjin posted:It's to fit a 5/16 threaded rod (drill bit is actually 3/8 not 1/4) for a contraption that I'm making. It's basically a vertical frame that will be moved up/down. I could mount them outside of the frame and use a guide rod but want them to go through the wood for astetics. You need either a boring machine or rip the 2x4 in half and router the groove in both pieces.
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Jul 6, 2010 06:18
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you can buy 17 inch auger bits and drill from either end. Or if you're a bit handy with your metalworking you could grind the end of your studding into an improvised bit and drill through with that.
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Jul 6, 2010 11:18
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wormil posted:I doubt you can get it from Lowes or Home Depot but maybe, never been to Sherwin Williams but I do know that most paint stores carry a lot more chemicals than just paint. You can order it from various woodworking websites if not available locally. I think mine are 2 oz bottles but that is probably equivalent to 2 quarts of stain. If you get it on your clothes it will never come out. The dye is just that and will not seal the wood so you'll probably want a finish over the top. For a bed, you probably don't need anything as durable and unforgiving as poly... I would use lacquer or shellac. Lowes does sell brushable lacquer. Finally got around to doing this yesterday. The spray was super easy, and it had no problem getting dark. I did the first seal coat with a sanding sealer lacquer and it was dry in 30 minutes. This way kicks rear end, thanks for the tips.
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Jul 6, 2010 12:14
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I'm gonna buy my first lathe mostly for bowl turning, although I'm gonna try to do some spindle work for chair construction. I found a great deal on a grizzly 8691 3/4 hp lathe but the bed is "formed" rather than cast and the only thing I've found on that is over time the head and tail can go out of alignment through bending, POSSIBLY. This is my first lathe though, and its 100$. Thoughts? I just picked up a used 8pc craftsman hss spindle toolset for 35 and the guy randomly threw in a sorby scraper and an extra toolrest. Gonna regrind the chisels at work and maybe pick up this lathe this weekend. My thoughts are .. its kind of perfect, ~14" throw means I can do big gnarly bowls instead of doing them on a faceplate outboard, do them with extra support. The only thing that bothers me is the formed bed.
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Jul 9, 2010 14:59
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Building a farm table, and need some advice on finishing. My table top is coming from leftover rough hewn lumber the amish used when they replaced our barn floor. My two end pieces look like this. I don't think I want any sort of clear coat on the table, but not sure how I should finish it, and how I should go about protecting the rough edges. 
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Jul 10, 2010 12:27
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I'd personally knock off the bark and do a buildup of tung oil on the edge underneath the bark
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Jul 10, 2010 16:32
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I have a request for all you wood workers. I'd like a quote on the wooden frame of a briefcase. Here are the specs: Size: 2'x 2'x 1 1/2" Joints: Either finger or dove tail Material: Clear pine Quantity: 2 Top: 2'x 2' x 1/4" ply no knots Routing: I need two small slots routed out in one of the frames for the locks. Gussets: I need two small Gussets in each corner towards the bottom. How much would something like this cost me? It is basically going to be the guts for a briefcase which I will be covering in leather so it does not need to look perfect. As long as the measurements are correct, it is sturdy, and it all fits together right I will be happy. Can I also get a quote for poplar, maple, ash, or alder? Thanks in advance -AM
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Jul 10, 2010 16:39
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unprofessional posted:Building a farm table... I would wire brush the rough edges to remove any loose material. Without a waterproof coat (poly, varnish, or lacquer) your table will get water rings and depending upon the hardness of the wood, will probably be marred through normal use. It is also a little more difficult to clean a table without a finish. Imagine if you spill milk, Kool-Aid, mustard or cranberry sauce, it will stain and maybe stink. Walking Spanish posted:I have a request for all you wood workers. I'd like a quote on the wooden frame of a briefcase. Here are the specs: I would encourage you to contact a local woodworker but I doubt the cost will vary much between the woods you have chosen. wormil fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jul 11, 2010 |
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Jul 11, 2010 01:06
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wormil posted:I would wire brush the rough edges to remove any loose material. Without a waterproof coat (poly, varnish, or lacquer) your table will get water rings and depending upon the hardness of the wood, will probably be marred through normal use. It is also a little more difficult to clean a table without a finish. Imagine if you spill milk, Kool-Aid, mustard or cranberry sauce, it will stain and maybe stink. The hilarious thing is my best friend is a master carpenter and wouldn't do it for less than 300. I called him an rear end in a top hat and hung up.
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Jul 11, 2010 07:08
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Walking Spanish posted:The hilarious thing is my best friend is a master carpenter and wouldn't do it for less than 300. I called him an rear end in a top hat and hung up. Doesn't sound unreasonable to me. Basically it's building two boxes then cutting them in half plus the routing. What were you expecting it to cost?
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Jul 11, 2010 08:53
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wormil posted:Doesn't sound unreasonable to me. Basically it's building two boxes then cutting them in half plus the routing. What were you expecting it to cost? i do itemized quotes because I want to know exactly what you are billing me for so I can see what dollar per hour rate you are charging me. His was 75
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Jul 11, 2010 14:36
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$75 an hour for a specialized skill being put to use on specialized tools is not really unreasonable. That's why it costs so much at the mechanic; not everyone has a car lift and all the wrenches and whatnot. The very fact that you have to ask someone (i.e. you don't have a woodshop and/or the time to do it yourself) is exactly why he charges $75 an hour.
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Jul 11, 2010 15:54
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A $50 to $70 an hour shop rate is pretty common. There are lot's of shops with higher rates than that. You set a shop rate to target the work you want to get, and weed out the stuff you don't want to do or can't afford to do. I don't make a living or really advertise my woodworking (aside from a single SAMart thread) and I still get generous job and commission offers that would literally end up with me going in the hole after materials, time, consumables, electricity, machine wear, bit wear blah blah blah. I've gotten these on the forums, but the worst always come from friends and family. They always think they know you, and people that know you tend to underestimate the worth of your time and skills. They see the machines and somehow imagine you toss a board at them and press a switch to make cool stuff pop out in a few minutes. I've made 3 pieces for my Grandfather in the past year that I've only taken 50% of what I should have charged anyone else. I did it because I owe him a lot personally. But if I did it for everyone, just because I "know them", I'd be flat rear end broke, I wouldn't have the money to fix or replace machines that break, or bits that wear, or buy finish or sandpaper or wood or pay the electricity bill. The last thing you want, professional or not, is word getting out that you do things "cheap". After a bit that's all you'll ever get to do and barely scrape by or file bankruptcy while your buddies enjoy those cheap custom cabinets you tried to match Lowes prefab poo poo on. ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Jul 12, 2010 |
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Jul 11, 2010 23:10
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