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Dr JonboyG posted:I hope the car has actually been to the Nordschleife. Otherwise it's like wearing a medal you didn't get awarded. That's why the decal is not in its proper location as well.
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Jun 30, 2010 00:35
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(((k))) posted:Do you know what the date ranges are? From what I can tell it's sep 08? 07/08 - 08/08 with a FEW September's affected as well. The build date is on the door panel of the driver's side.
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Jun 30, 2010 02:09
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blargle posted:How hard are those to install? I was going to use red paint instead (there's a big thread on Nasioc with instructions). The vinyl overlays scared me off because they looked much more difficult to install correctly, someone said they take 30 minutes to install with a hairdryer. I highly, highly advise painting them. It's much easier and they won't fade (I've had two friends who's overlays went orange, at which point we painted them). Painting is really easy, just make sure you tape them off on the car. Here's mine post-painting. It took a couple of hours on a nice dry day. 
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Jun 30, 2010 03:14
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm experiencing a lot of vibration in my car when I've got the air conditioner on and I'm sitting at a light; it feels like the idle keeps dropping repeatedly and then spinning back up and making a general racket of itself. From what I can see, a dirty IACV is to blame for a lot of Subarus, but my car (06 WRX) is drive by wire. Is there still an IACV for a drive by wire car, or is it just some line of code in the ECU and my problem lies elsewhere? When the car is "cold" (in fast idle) the throttle response is excellent, the engine loves to rev and the car acts pretty much perfectly. However, about halfway through my commute it just becomes a rumbling vibrating chore. This appears to be regardless of whether or not I run the AC. I've got drive by wire so no IACV. I've seen it recommended that the MAF be cleaned, but I would assume that the mechanic I did my 48k km service with cleaned the MAF as part of the air filter replacement. Anything else I can look at, especially with the (limited) data logging facilities of an AP v1? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Jun 30, 2010 |
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Jun 30, 2010 05:14
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I've seen it recommended that the MAF be cleaned, but I would assume that the mechanic I did my 48k km service with cleaned the MAF as part of the air filter replacement. Never assume gently caress all with mechanics. If you didn't tell them, they ain't loving doing it (most times). Air filter replacement does not mean tear apart the intake tract and clean any debris/dirt.
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Jun 30, 2010 11:04
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If a mechanic took it upon themselves to clean my MAF while doing an air filter change we'd be friendz 4 life. No one goes above and beyond like that.
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Jun 30, 2010 13:30
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8ender posted:If a mechanic took it upon themselves to clean my MAF while doing an air filter change we'd be friendz 4 life. No one goes above and beyond like that. I do for your car 
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Jun 30, 2010 14:20
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Sockington posted:I do for your car You're selling it back to me for the same price when you're finished right? 
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Jun 30, 2010 14:30
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You guys are already friends for life. It's like 8ender and Sockington went to war, 8ender got shot, and then Sock had to nurse him back to health by sticking tampons in his wounds and firing wildly at approaching Russians. Except for Subaru Imprezas. I'm not good with similes. 8ender posted:If a mechanic took it upon themselves to clean my MAF while doing an air filter change we'd be friendz 4 life. No one goes above and beyond like that. Looks like I have my weekend project; hopefully they still sell MAF cleaner at Auto Value. I just remembered that I found an old air/fuel sensor in my box of parts I got from the PO; when I asked him about it a few months ago, he said it was to deal with the "slow idle," but it did nothing to fix the problem. It would be kind of funny if he went to all that effort only to have to clean the intake air sensor. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Jun 30, 2010 |
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Jun 30, 2010 14:54
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I got my PA inspection done today and I passed just fine, but I notice I have the following printed on my emissions report. "Based on the information gathered during an attempt to perform an On Board Diagnostic test, NO Signal was available from the On Board Diagnostic computer system. This vehicle should produce a signal from the On Board Diagnostic computer system. This vehicle needs to have the above problem corrected prior to next year's emissions inspection." The guy at the place where I had the test done (National Tire and Battery chain store) said that "some cars just do that and there's nothing to worry about." However, I am worried about it a little bit as I don't want to have an issue next year when I get the car inspected again. Can anyone shed some light on what may cause this or if it can be safely ignored?
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Jul 1, 2010 01:03
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I'm looking for some decent seat covers for my '04 Forester that aren't going to gently caress with the side airbags in the unlikely event that I actually need them. Preferably something that is moisture resistant like neoprene or something. Trying to keep the actual seat from being destroyed after being outside and sweaty all drat day. Any recommendations?
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Jul 1, 2010 17:15
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bull3964 posted:The guy at the place where I had the test done (National Tire and Battery chain store) said that "some cars just do that and there's nothing to worry about." However, I am worried about it a little bit as I don't want to have an issue next year when I get the car inspected again. Can anyone shed some light on what may cause this or if it can be safely ignored? If there was no signal from the onboard computer that would mean that your ECU was dead. But if your car works, obviously it's not. More than likely this guy just didn't have the key in the ON position when he was trying to read from the OBD2 port. So he's an idiot. Not your problem.
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Jul 1, 2010 18:17
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Amandyke posted:If there was no signal from the onboard computer that would mean that your ECU was dead. But if your car works, obviously it's not. More than likely this guy just didn't have the key in the ON position when he was trying to read from the OBD2 port. So he's an idiot. Not your problem. He could also have a pushed pin on the diagnostic port. Or an open somewhere between the ECU and the diagnostic port.
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Jul 1, 2010 20:50
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I loaded the Cobb "Stage 1" map onto my 06 today. Seems to make a bit of a difference, especially at idle, which sounds and feels really different. The replacement throttle mapping is a boon for stop and go traffic too. e: Also noticing that my intermittent idle problem seems to go away for the most part if I turn the climate control fan to "off," which of course disables climate control. It still happens when the car sits in traffic long enough to kick off the rad fan. I'm thinking I should test my alternator, but also that it probably isn't a great idea to do it with my Canadian Tire handheld multimeter. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Jul 2, 2010 |
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Jul 2, 2010 00:47
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I loaded the Cobb "Stage 1" map onto my 06 today. Seems to make a bit of a difference, especially at idle, which sounds and feels really different. The replacement throttle mapping is a boon for stop and go traffic too. Since the problem happens after your car heats up it really sounds like the inputs that go into the ECU when it goes from open-loop to closed loop after warm up are not working correctly. That basically means MAF sensor unless i'm retarded and if I am I will be corrected quickly. Clean it, test it, if outside of spec replace it. Or just replace it outright
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Jul 2, 2010 07:51
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Bob Sapp Please posted:I'm looking for some decent seat covers for my '04 Forester that aren't going to gently caress with the side airbags in the unlikely event that I actually need them. Wet Okole makes awesome seat covers with velcro break aways for side air bags. They're a bit pricey, but worth it imo. I had a set in my old 4runner and plan to get sets for both my STI and my 00 Forester.
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Jul 2, 2010 08:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm thinking I should test my alternator, but also that it probably isn't a great idea to do it with my Canadian Tire handheld multimeter. Jam each lead into the battery terminals. At idle, you should see at least 13.x volts. Running/under load, it should be in the high 13's or low 14v. If you see 12.xx anything, then the alternator isn't charging poo poo.
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Jul 2, 2010 11:13
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Anyone know a tuner or mechanic in the DC area that will do an open ECU tune? I've been told that's probably a better plan than an accessport.
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Jul 2, 2010 14:28
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Dr JonboyG posted:Anyone know a tuner or mechanic in the DC area that will do an open ECU tune? I've been told that's probably a better plan than an accessport. Usually the entire idea behind an open ecu tune is that you can do it yourself. Are you getting the intrix cable? If so why not poke around their forums and get a map that fits with your mods (if any), flash it yourself, and then use rom raider to make a few updates if you feel the itch. That said, you can get a free version of AccessTune from Cobb which allows you to modify your maps as well. I've been thinking about getting it, but have so far been too lazy to fill out the form.
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Jul 2, 2010 16:31
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Mat_Drinks posted:Wet Okole makes awesome seat covers with velcro break aways for side air bags. They're a bit pricey, but worth it imo. I had a set in my old 4runner and plan to get sets for both my STI and my 00 Forester. Those look pretty sweet. Thanks!
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Jul 2, 2010 16:56
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Amandyke posted:Usually the entire idea behind an open ecu tune is that you can do it yourself. Are you getting the intrix cable? If so why not poke around their forums and get a map that fits with your mods (if any), flash it yourself, and then use rom raider to make a few updates if you feel the itch. gently caress no, I want to pay someone who knows what they're doing, I have neither the time nor the inclination (and most importantly the aptitude) to do it myself.
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Jul 2, 2010 18:01
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Dr JonboyG posted:gently caress no, I want to pay someone who knows what they're doing, I have neither the time nor the inclination (and most importantly the aptitude) to do it myself. From what I've read these appear to be a few reputable shops: http://www.dpstuning.com/ http://www.machv.com/
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Jul 2, 2010 18:28
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Yeah, getting a real tuner with a dyno is by far the best option. Where are you? Accessports are great if you don't mind spending the extra cash, and tuners who sell them will usually cut you a deal if you buy an ap and tune at the same time.
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Jul 2, 2010 18:34
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jamal posted:Yeah, getting a real tuner with a dyno is by far the best option. Where are you? In DC - will give Mach V a call.
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Jul 2, 2010 18:51
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So I'm looking at this. http://tricities.craigslist.org/cto/1785986909.html  Click here for the full 1263x985 image. Guy that's selling it is a good friend of a friend. I got to ride in it yesterday. (Stepped on a nail with my left foot day before yesterday, decided to pass on the test drive for the moment.) Engine bay looks clean, sounds good, rides good, plenty of tread on the tires. The current owner bought it with all the mods, hasn't added anything to it. He says there's no problems with it, has all the maintenance records since he bought it. I said I'd want compression/leakdown tests and an independent inspection done before I actually bought it, owner had no issues with that. My only questions are is there anything out of the norm that I should look (or ask) for, and how does UTEC stack up against an AP? I have an opportunity to get an AP for free if I end up buying the car.
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Jul 2, 2010 21:36
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 Click here for the full 1280x853 image. Might as well ugly up the thread with the help of my minivan
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Jul 2, 2010 23:30
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Sockington posted:Jam each lead into the battery terminals. At idle, you should see at least 13.x volts. Running/under load, it should be in the high 13's or low 14v. I jammed one lead into the positive post of the battery terminal and the other into the nearest convenient grounding point on the chassis (which was grounded off of negative). I forgot to do the battery directly between reading this post and going outside. I'll try cleaning the MAF soon then and see if the problem goes away. I tried gently rapping on the MAF with my knuckles to see if I could get it to stumble or stall, but nothing came of that. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Jul 3, 2010 |
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Jul 3, 2010 00:26
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Syd posted:
Awesome car. I almost bought one of these instead of my STI, but figured I'd get a LGT next time around.
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Jul 3, 2010 02:51
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Seat Safety Switch posted:
See though? A little probing and one thing crossed off the list of possible problems.
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Jul 3, 2010 05:05
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Dr JonboyG posted:In DC - will give Mach V a call. You won't regret going to Dan at Mach V. He's a bit pricey, but on par with most tuners in the area and the service there is really good. They are a friendly bunch, and one of my friends is a mechanic there so give him business!
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Jul 3, 2010 07:13
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zephyrthebreeze posted:So I'm looking at this. If I remember correctly the UTEC has some nicer options then the AP, including the ability to have a little button where you can switch maps on the fly (for valet or different fuel mapping options). That's a great looking car, just make sure you've got a rainy day fund in case something like the oil pickup decides to fail and the engine shits the bucket.
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Jul 3, 2010 19:15
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So I don't really post TOO often in this thread, but I thought I'd share the details of my new project car since I think it's pretty amusing  I managed to find an 00 Forester S in manual (00 being the first year of the L/S in the forester) for pretty cheap  Click here for the full 702x648 image. Currently I'm collecting parts, but so far I've got 04 STI struts, springs, and top hats, Whiteline end links, WRX front brakes, STI exhaust, a set of wrx wheels, and fender braces. Once I get an ebay header, a supers cat pipe, sways, sway braces for the lateral links, and sway mounts I'll have install day number one. Then it'll get H6 rear brakes, WRX fronts, stainless lines, some kind of performance pad, etc for install day number two. I'll probably get an STI steering rack in at some point and long term I'm contemplating different engine build options. NA blueprint and build? Maybe. Or maybe just a turbo swap, but everybody does those.Oh, and I shouldn't forget the trailer hitch I'll be adding for hardware store/dump runs
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Jul 3, 2010 19:39
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Don't know what you mean but the previous years had the L and S trim lines, and a base model that I'm not sure actually was produced. Anyway, nice car. edit: I put '06 XT struts / springs on my '99 L. I'm not sure how much it changed in the handling department, but it's not like a noticeable drop or anything. It did feel better, but I was comparing it to worn out struts.
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Jul 3, 2010 22:55
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By L/S I meant limited slip The 04 struts and springs are kind of a starting point since they were cheap. I may eventually go for Konis or something similar down the line.
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Jul 4, 2010 03:05
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Oh yes it was... haha. Yeah I got them cheap off a NASIOC user. Keep in mind with the current struts you probably have to remove the brake lines or carefully cut them out of the strut housing (if you don't want to rebleed). I replaced mine with the '06 lines (identical length but different clip) and it's much more sane; having the lines clipped on, not permanently attached.
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Jul 4, 2010 04:00
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Son of a bitch, as if I haven't already spent enough money on my Forester, it looks like my A/C compressor is also on the way out. It's squealing pretty badly, so time to replace it I guess. At least I should be able to do that myself. On top of that, the moonroof motor is on its way out, so I'll have a couple hundred bucks in replacing that too.
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Jul 5, 2010 21:30
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LordOfThePants posted:Son of a bitch, as if I haven't already spent enough money on my Forester, it looks like my A/C compressor is also on the way out. It's squealing pretty badly, so time to replace it I guess. At least I should be able to do that myself. Squealing might just mean the belt that runs the compressor needs replacement. Easy fix.
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Jul 5, 2010 23:45
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8ender posted:Squealing might just mean the belt that runs the compressor needs replacement. Easy fix. If I shut the A/C off, it goes away (the belt is practically new anyway), so it's definitely in the compressor. Replacing the compressor looks fairly easy, I'm going to replace the expansion valve and the drier too just to be safe. Still trying to figure out how to do that as my Chilton manual doesn't even mention them.
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Jul 6, 2010 01:56
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LordOfThePants posted:If I shut the A/C off, it goes away (the belt is practically new anyway), so it's definitely in the compressor. The belt is simply not under load when the air con is off - when the belt is not under load it wont squeak and yes I would agree with previous, it's more liekly the belt. Being newer, it's more likely to need to be retightened. Do that first.
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Jul 6, 2010 02:17
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Sounds like I've got a nest of baby birds chirping behind my dash when the air conditioning is on. Blower motor? Is it a symptom of anything in particular or just aggravating?
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Jul 6, 2010 03:44
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