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Wow, today I had an epiphany, and it was induced by Worlds End Radio none the less. I've used foliage clusters from Woodland Scenics now and then, but it never struck me that you can paint it. I've just stuck it to things and been happy with it. So while listening to the podcast today they throw a side remark about using washes to shade foliage clumps, and drat, it's just so obvious! So I get home and try it, and a black wash for shadows followed by a slight bubonic brown drybrushed highlight actually did a lot to make them look more natural. Did I feel stupid or what.
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Jun 21, 2010 21:18
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big_g posted:If he's moving from 40K as he says its a bit pointless to be splashing out as he probably has all the colours he needs. As long as you can paint red, white, brown and flesh you have pretty much all you need. Well, yeah, but I meant in a year or two when his GW paints have all dried up like mine did. I just went through them on Saturday and all but the inks, washes, and foundations (which are still new) were destroyed. My reaper paints, on the other hand, which I've had for nearly 12,000 years now, are all fine.
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Jun 21, 2010 21:37
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lilljonas posted:Wow, today I had an epiphany, and it was induced by Worlds End Radio none the less. I've used foliage clusters from Woodland Scenics now and then, but it never struck me that you can paint it. I've just stuck it to things and been happy with it. So while listening to the podcast today they throw a side remark about using washes to shade foliage clumps, and drat, it's just so obvious! So I get home and try it, and a black wash for shadows followed by a slight bubonic brown drybrushed highlight actually did a lot to make them look more natural. Was reading a build report in some modelling magazine and found out that some people paint their static grass blade by blade if it's not the right colour 
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Jun 21, 2010 21:39
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Was reading a build report in some modelling magazine and found out that some people paint their static grass blade by blade if it's not the right colour Jesus Christ! Static grass is cheap, and comes in many colors. Please just go buy the right loving color.
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Jun 21, 2010 21:49
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If it's not the right colour then glue it on before undercoating and paint it like any other part of the model TBH.
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Jun 22, 2010 01:10
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Trial of making camps out of isolation foam. The idea is to sort of represent the fact that generals during this period liked to plant their command centers at a mountain or hill overseeing the battlefield. Here's Tokugawa camping out in the woods with some dudes:   It's a quick job as you might notice that I didn't even hide the bases or anything, but I think it turned out pretty ok. Bonus bandwagon picture:  Batch painting 40 dudes is a pain in the rear end.
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Jun 22, 2010 13:54
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God! All of them at once. You have bigger balls than me when it comes to batch painting.
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Jun 23, 2010 18:22
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big_g posted:God! All of them at once. You have bigger balls than me when it comes to batch painting. Yeah I just tend to paint a stands worth at a time.
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Jun 23, 2010 20:37
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Yeh I'm doing the Napoleonics in groups of sixes.
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Jun 23, 2010 20:43
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Dammit I am so ready to hop on the Napoleonic bandwagon I can't wait for my models to arrive, but the package is several days late  And just when I got back into my fascination with the period. gently caress.
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Jun 24, 2010 12:39
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found a sweet ebay store that sells the victrix boxes for 25$ +6$ shipping, good deal for 52 little plastic dudes with funny hats  took 3 days to arrive as well so pretty good as I'm in the middle of the midwest
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Jun 24, 2010 21:38
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Canvas Eagles (pretty much Blue Max with some updates) Wroooom ratatatatatata wroooom (photos taken after the game as it was too exciting for us to pause it) Got my first game in today. Two German Albatross DIII against an English plane and a French one (we forgot the templates for the actual Allied painted planes and had to proxy them). Canvas Eagles is a pretty simple game where you plan out your moves on a hexagonal grid table in secret, and then execute them simultaneously. Normal fighters can shoot three hexes straight forward, but it also depends on which of the 10 levels of height you fly on (shoot one up with penalty, one down with bonus). Basically it is all about second-guessing your opponent and insanely deadly random damage charts. It is also very fast: I was a complete newbie and the two others had only played a trial game before, and we finished a four plane game in a little over an hour. Highlights: my German wingman shot up the English plane's fuel tank, but was simultaneously put on fire, had his enginge destroyed, started stalling and had his gun jammed. For several turns he plummeted towards the ground until he miraculously put out the fire and ended his stall against his home edge of the table (as he was gliding without an engine, this was his only hope of escape). He was mere inches from getting away with it when the French fighter caught up with him and riddled his fuel tank with bullets until the plane exploded. HOWEVER, the French pilot didn't realize that this left him without a legal manouver to not exit the enemy board edge, which sent him off to conduct a daring escape from capture behind enemy lines. My own Albatross uselessly circled around the Englishman, taking and receiving some very minor damage. Then, we suddenly ended up straight in front of each other, with him wounding my pilot and damaging my fuselage. In return, I wounded his pilot, pierced his fuel tank yet again, and left him unable to turn left. At this point the Englishman was left with almost no fuel, and would soon have to start to glide without an engine. These instances call for death or glory. We each circled around, yet again meeting head on and this time at point blank range. The hail of bullets riddled my pilots body with enough holes to kill several men, and continued to completely rip the fuselage apart. But my revenge was instant: my hail of bullets were just as deadly, exploding what fuel was left in a fiery blast that incinerated the English plane. Three dead pilots and a narrow escape from prison camp. Now that is WW1 dogfighting. Basically pretty much the entire game was the highlight. Canvas Eagles is a nifty game. Four planes is like, 12 pound, but you'll probably end up wanting a sweet playing mat and the crazy extension bases. It's fun and fast to paint planes too. You should play it. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jun 24, 2010 |
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Jun 24, 2010 22:05
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How does the move/maneuver system work? It sound vaguely similar to Crimson Skies. Probably not as at first glance though. Also Crimson Skies isn't 3D.
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Jun 24, 2010 22:12
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Galaga Galaxian posted:How does the move/maneuver system work? It sound vaguely similar to Crimson Skies. It's really intuitive actually. Here's an example of a plane,and Albatross DV:  Horizontally you have speed bands: speed 0, speed 1, speed 2 etc. You can just shift one speed band each turn. Then you have three vertical bands: left, straight, right. Most planes can not take a left move directly followed by a right move. There are also some moves in brackets, which means that you can not do another bracketed move after that one. These are usually speed 0 moves, which means that you can't just sit still. It's a plane, after all. Finally at the bottom you have six boxes of restricted moves that you can only do if you just flew straight forward the turn before. Planes can have very different moves depending on agility. Each move shows how many hexes you move in which direction, and how your plane ends up facing. Each move also has an altitude specification, like "dive 1 or climb 1" or "dive one or stay level". There are 10 altitude levels, with each plane having a maximum altitude, like 8 for our Albatrosses. So all you do when you move is that you look at the maneuver map, choose a move and whether or not you change altitude, and write that down. You'll get a code like "S6R2 alt. 7". When everyone has written this, you move. You tick off boxes for fuel, which is the same as your speed, and resolve combat. It's free to attack if someone is in your fire arch, which is usually straight forward, and combat is simultaneous. Then you take another turn. Combat is pretty simple. You have a basic attack value depending on your plane and the range. Then you add bonuses depending on whether you shoot a long or a short burst, if you were tailing or not etc. Then you roll a D6 on a chart, which gets progressively worse depending on your roll and your combat value. Thing is, as long as you are in a pretty good position for a shot, you're bound to do at least some damage, even if you roll badly. But if you roll well, you can get lucky even with a bad shot. So it's not like shooting lascannons at grots and rolling 1's to wound, you are bound to be rewarded if you fly your plane well. The better position and the more lucky you are, the more damage you are guaranteed to do. So a good shot might give you, say, 1 blue (normal) damage and 3 red ("critical") damage. Then you roll for each damage on a D66 chart, with separate results for red and blue damage (red being far more deadly) ranging from a few damage marks on your wings to the pilot being shot in the head and dead. Since most attacks sees you roll on this table two or three times as most, and the fact that the results are so crucial, it didn't feel like it was clunky at all. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Jun 25, 2010 |
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Jun 25, 2010 07:05
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lilljonas posted:Canvas Eagles (pretty much Blue Max with some updates) That actually looks pretty awesome. Are those bases a specialist item or do people make them up themselves? They look pretty nifty.
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Jun 25, 2010 07:23
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No Pun Intended posted:That actually looks pretty awesome. I think we bought them from some guy in Canada. If you want to you can make them yourself from some RC antennas or something, even if they won't be quite as useful as these can be tilted around to show if you shoot up or down etc.
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Jun 25, 2010 07:30
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What do they attach to the model with?
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Jun 25, 2010 07:39
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No Pun Intended posted:What do they attach to the model with? There's a magnet at the end of the antenna. We just glue magnets to the bottom of the planes. If you wanted to be ambitious I guess you could drill them into the planes instead.
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Jun 25, 2010 07:48
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lilljonas posted:I think we bought them from some guy in Canada. If you want to you can make them yourself from some RC antennas or something, even if they won't be quite as useful as these can be tilted around to show if you shoot up or down etc. One of these plus  one of these, with either a neodymium magnet or a strip of steel attached to the bottom of the planes would work, too.
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Jun 26, 2010 06:05
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I was to start painting my 1000pts of FOW scots for a tournament in two weeks. Instead I painted a 28mm Victrix highlander instead as a test paint for my next Lasalle army.
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Jun 27, 2010 12:44
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Does anywhere (either in the UK, or happy to ship to the UK) sell 28mm Iraqi/generic middle eastern civilians?
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Jun 27, 2010 13:10
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LintMan posted:I was to start painting my 1000pts of FOW scots for a tournament in two weeks. Instead I painted a 28mm Victrix highlander instead as a test paint for my next Lasalle army. This is lovely. How many do you have to do in total?
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Jun 27, 2010 18:33
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Another 47 for my large lasalle unit.
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Jun 27, 2010 20:20
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Thanks for the painting advice everyone, looks like I won't need any new paints, which I'm fairly happy about!
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Jun 27, 2010 21:06
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drat, painting these British infantry makes me realize just how little I know about Napoleonics. As I assembled them I had no idea what the different arms were all about, with what I now know are the Grenadier wings, and I had no idea what those riflemen were about. What, center and flank companies? What are these things? Catching up with my Sharpe's series to learn more as I speak. It was really the period I knew the least about before.
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Jun 28, 2010 19:19
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I know much of it from being an AWI reenactor, although it's not identical.
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Jun 28, 2010 19:39
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Anyone have some good tips of where to begin, except from the obvious Osprey and Wikipedia?
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Jun 28, 2010 20:35
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The only other suggestion is go to your local library and get some books on the subject.
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Jun 28, 2010 23:52
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lilljonas posted:drat, painting these British infantry makes me realize just how little I know about Napoleonics. As I assembled them I had no idea what the different arms were all about, with what I now know are the Grenadier wings, and I had no idea what those riflemen were about. What, center and flank companies? What are these things? Catching up with my Sharpe's series to learn more as I speak. It was really the period I knew the least about before. LOL yeah its really complicated isnt it! It need s alot of reserch to get right. Its hard to adivse you without knowing exactly what scale/ratio you are playing at as well as what time period- is a unit going to be a company, battalion or a regiment? This will obviously make all the difference to what figures you need to have where. For a rough guide a British Battalion had 10 companies. 1 comapny would be a light one, 1 a grenadier (both wore those wings on their shoulders but had different coloured plumes - green and all white as opposed to half red and half white). The flank comapnies are the colelctive term for grenadiers and light companies, the centre compnaies are all the rest. Personally for a 24 man unit I would field 4 grens, 4 light and 16 centre. Not totally correct ratio wise, but it would look good. More accurate would be 2 of each flank type. Riflemen were fielded in entirely seperate battalions usually. Serotonin fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Jun 29, 2010 |
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Jun 29, 2010 08:02
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http://www.napolun.com/mirror/napoleonistyka.atspace.com/foreigners_British_army.htm Is an interesting read. If your local Library has some Osprey books they are really good. Sharpe series of books is good to get the basics. Sharpes Eagle is a good one which has some nice descriptions of some battalion tactics and some good scenes which deal with the "Officer" class of the period.
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Jun 29, 2010 08:30
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On the topic of information (but not about Napoleon sorry), I got linked to this 1964 LIFE Magazine. If you skip to page 62 there is a nice little article on WWI Aviation.
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Jun 29, 2010 09:01
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Serotonin posted:LOL yeah its really complicated isnt it! It need s alot of reserch to get right. I'm painting up a box of Perries plastics, so I'm looking at 3 grens, 3 light, 2 stands with three line, three stands with six line and one stand with six command. So a total of 36 miniatures, with 4 bonus riflemen added that I'm not sure what to do with. I wasn't even that sure about the difference between Waterloo regiments and Peninsular regiments when I started out putting them together, so I went with Peninsular since the command have snazzier coats and the infantry have nicer hats. That's the level I'm on.
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Jun 29, 2010 15:03
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lilljonas posted:4 bonus riflemen added that I'm not sure what to do with. Obviously you make the Sharpe, Harper, Harris, and Hagman.
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Jun 29, 2010 15:27
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lilljonas posted:I'm painting up a box of Perries plastics, so I'm looking at 3 grens, 3 light, 2 stands with three line, three stands with six line and one stand with six command. So a total of 36 miniatures, with 4 bonus riflemen added that I'm not sure what to do with. I wasn't even that sure about the difference between Waterloo regiments and Peninsular regiments when I started out putting them together, so I went with Peninsular since the command have snazzier coats and the infantry have nicer hats. That's the level I'm on. Main uniform difference is that after 1813ish new troops were issued with Belgic shakos (the fancy braided harder to paint hats) and the trousers changed to a grey colour. Of course on campaign uniforms would have probably been a mix. Oh and of course the 28th north Gloucestershire kept their stovepipe shakos throughout the war but had a special hat badge on the back of the shako in tribute to their famous back to back defnce in Egypt.
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Jun 29, 2010 15:38
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First test base of the Victrix Highlanders. Not sold on the 4 figures per base, certainly makes them supercheap to put together a unit though.    
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Jul 1, 2010 12:59
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Yeah, 4 looks a little sparse. That era of combat was all about being bunched together. I've pulled people bayonets out of their scabbards with my haversack ( ) because we're so close.They look great, though.
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Jul 1, 2010 13:02
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Hooray! Brookhurst shipped my Langton 'reinforcements'.code:3 Action Economist fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Jul 1, 2010 |
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Jul 1, 2010 18:42
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LintMan posted:http://www.napolun.com/mirror/napoleonistyka.atspace.com/foreigners_British_army.htm Note that while the stuff on napolun.com (what kind of domain name is that?), while valuable because of the huge amount of info, seems to be largely written by Poles and therefore has an extreme and open pro-French bias. (fun fact: we're the only nation in the world to invoke Napoleon in our national anthem) Wellington in particular seems to be a popular object of hatred around there. Mind, it's actually a good antidote for the usual pro-British, Napoleon-was-Hitler, Wellington-was-a-god-and-won-Waterloo-singlehandedly bias found in most English-language material, but the truth is, as usual, somewhere in the middle. Meanwhile, I got a phone call from my retailer yesterday that GHQ hosed up their order and I'll only be getting one set of French infantry for now.  I'll have to wait until my next order to get some complete stuff. Ah well, it'll motivate me to complete the army faster. I'm actually pretty eager to lay my hands on some 10mm stuff, I'm completely new to the scale after ten years of mostly GW.
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Jul 2, 2010 05:46
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Got to play my first FoW game today! My Ranger battalion against a Panzergrenadier kompanie. I lost at the end but I murdalized all of his infantry. He didn't end up taking any objectives, but I failed my company motivation since my last Compay Co. died. FoW owns.
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Jul 3, 2010 03:53
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S.J. posted:FoW owns. This is correct.
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Jul 3, 2010 03:58
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