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This probably isn't necessarily a Saab issue, but mind as well ask. My 1999 Saab 9-3 seems to be having some problems with third gear. Every once and a while, when I pop it into third, I hear what sounds like gears crunching for about a half second. My dad thinks it's the synchronizer starting to die. Is that probable? Anyone else have this issue?
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Jul 5, 2010 21:20
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Is it just when you shift quickly - is it ok if you do a very deliberate out-neutral-in shift? Sounds like a synchromesh on its way out, yeah. A good choice of gearbox oil can alleviate a lot of it, but it depends what those boxes like.
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Jul 5, 2010 21:37
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Anyone worked on the antenna in a 98-03 9-3? My gf's antenna mast has snapped in half, and the only instructions online I've found don't really cover the 9-3, but only the NG900. Everything essential seems the same, but the details of how to undo the trunk carpet around the antenna motor is off. I see along the side of the hatch 2 torx head screws, but that's about it.
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Jul 6, 2010 20:30
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Karl Barks posted:My 1999 Saab 9-3 seems to be having some problems with third gear. Every once and a while, when I pop it into third, I hear what sounds like gears crunching for about a half second. My dad thinks it's the synchronizer starting to die. Is that probable? Anyone else have this issue? It could be syncro. As Dave asked - does it always do it? kimbo305 posted:Anyone worked on the antenna in a 98-03 9-3? I thought I had WIS for this, but I can't find it. Your best bet is to hop on SaabNet chat at 5pm-8pm PST/PDT; there's usually at least one person there with WIS and AllData; never dealt with it but the 98-03 is a direct descendant of the NG900 so I don't see it being completely different. However, I have been wrong before.
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Jul 7, 2010 16:37
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kimbo305 posted:Anyone worked on the antenna in a 98-03 9-3? I've done this on my '99 - I replaced my broken (not going down) mast with a "good" one from a junkyard that just didn't go up at all. I think you have to take off the speaker cover and peel the carpet back but I'll double check when I get home. I was running custom software before the swap and I've left it for now. I'm going to buy one of these babies: http://www.canusb.com/ Custom tuning of my ECU from my laptop as well as a strait line to all sensors, knock, and misses etc? SIGN ME THE HELL UP! Also, I had my friend (who wasn't too familiar with turbos) tighten my intercooler hoses and every hose joint has blown in a hilarious under high boost situation. Mostly a "BOOM" followed by the turbo freewheeling to 1-billion RPM. Sounds like a jumbo jet getting shot out of a cannon. Fixed now, but it was pretty funny to me for some reason. <3 my car again now.
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Jul 7, 2010 21:17
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kimbo305 posted:Anyone worked on the antenna in a 98-03 9-3? I did it in my '96, and its quite easy. You need to unbolt the plastic cover around the trunk latch including the cargo tie-down. If your car has the 6 disc changer you need to unbolt the bracket too. You also need to do what Captain Crunk said and take the cover off the rear speaker and the trim around it. I'm sure you could do it without removing the speaker crap but it would be a pain to try and stick the carpet back in there.
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Jul 7, 2010 21:33
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localized posted:I did it in my '96, and its quite easy. You need to unbolt the plastic cover around the trunk latch including the cargo tie-down. If your car has the 6 disc changer you need to unbolt the bracket too. You also need to do what Captain Crunk said and take the cover off the rear speaker and the trim around it. I'm sure you could do it without removing the speaker crap but it would be a pain to try and stick the carpet back in there. That's the thing -- I think the speaker configuration for the 99+ is different than on the 900s. In any case, there's definitely not much detail about carpet removal on the instructions I'm going by: http://www.thesaabsite.com/93/NGantennamastreplacement.htm I'll try to take pics of the situation later this afternoon and circle which bolts I think need to be taken off.
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Jul 7, 2010 22:18
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About halfway down the page: http://www.kolumbus.fi/richard.bevan/saab/saab93/fitting.html If thats what the rear speaker setup looks like, than the process that I described is what you want to do, You need to remove the cover that he has taken off as well as the black plastic housing that you can see in the picture. If not than I don't know. Edit: Looking at that site more I guess the CD changer bit is different on the 9-3, so I don't know if you have to remove anything or not.
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Jul 7, 2010 22:29
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localized posted:About halfway down the page: Looks pretty close, if not the same. There's no CD changer to mess with. And on top of this, I still need to "unbolt the plastic cover around the trunk latch including the cargo tie-down" as well?
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Jul 7, 2010 22:39
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Yeah, when I pulled the plastic bit off it felt like it was going to snap and it sounded like it did but it turned out to be fine. It took about 25 minutes to take it all apart and install a new antenna motor and aerial. Don't forget to take off the nut on the outside of the antenna mask and to make sure that the drain tube gets back in its hole.
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Jul 7, 2010 22:50
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Well dammit - anyone ever have their power seat on the driver side quit working? Passenger still works, and no fuses look to be blown, so I'm guessing it's a wiring eff up or maybe a motor went out. (99' 9-3) But more importantly, with all this talk of SID repair, anyone ever do a similar job on the ACC screen? Both mine are kaput, and will probably give the SID one a job this weekend, but it'd be awful nice to tell what temperature I've had my car set at for the last 3 years.
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Jul 7, 2010 22:57
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InitialDave posted:Is it just when you shift quickly - is it ok if you do a very deliberate out-neutral-in shift? Sounds like a synchromesh on its way out, yeah. A good choice of gearbox oil can alleviate a lot of it, but it depends what those boxes like. Yeah, if I do it slowly it pretty much never does it.
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Jul 7, 2010 23:04
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Karl Barks posted:Yeah, if I do it slowly it pretty much never does it.
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Jul 7, 2010 23:17
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onezero posted:Well dammit - anyone ever have their power seat on the driver side quit working? Passenger still works, and no fuses look to be blown, so I'm guessing it's a wiring eff up or maybe a motor went out. (99' 9-3) Yeah. The power seat failed on my 2K. Had the wiring come apart. Do you have memory seats, or not? Some DO have different fuses for driver/passenger. Here's a basic schematic, either way:  I have done minor repair on my ACC (attempt) but after a couple hours, it fades and the pixels still die. Talked to a local guy who works on them and he says it's pointless because those get so warm, they might as well just get replaced.
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Jul 8, 2010 00:03
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I'm looking at getting a 99 Saab 9-b 3.0l v-6 and the only thing that's keeping me from definitely purchasing it is the high beams don't work, my question would be, where can I actually buy parts for this thing at that doesn't charge 1000% more than what parts should regularly cost or is that the price of owning a Saab? The specific part I'm trying to find is the high beam relay.
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Jul 9, 2010 15:54
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ssh posted:Yeah. The power seat failed on my 2K. Had the wiring come apart. Do you have memory seats, or not? Some DO have different fuses for driver/passenger. Here's a basic schematic, either way: Yeah, memory seats. Thanks for the schematic.
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Jul 9, 2010 16:44
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keykey posted:I'm looking at getting a 99 Saab 9-b 3.0l v-6 and the only thing that's keeping me from definitely purchasing it is the high beams don't work, my question would be, where can I actually buy parts for this thing at that doesn't charge 1000% more than what parts should regularly cost or is that the price of owning a Saab? The specific part I'm trying to find is the high beam relay. I assume you mean a 9-5 3.0. Keep in mind these are very expensive engines. If it's leaking any coolant, do NOT get this car. It's expensive as hell (mostly in time) to fix. They tend to leak near the center. Not a fun thing, and why I didn't end up with a 2K 9-5 3.0. Your high beams are going to be the orange relay. They all die.  Try pulling it out and giving it a shake. Then reseat. If you can solder you can fix it easily; if not, they're not too expensive. I usually use StateOfNine, or TheSAABSite if I can't find my parts locally. It will help to find and befriend a local Indy. onezero posted:Yeah, memory seats. Thanks for the schematic. Now that I think about it, I've never seen a Viggen without memory seats. 
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Jul 9, 2010 17:20
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ssh posted:I assume you mean a 9-5 3.0. Keep in mind these are very expensive engines. If it's leaking any coolant, do NOT get this car. It's expensive as hell (mostly in time) to fix. They tend to leak near the center. Not a fun thing, and why I didn't end up with a 2K 9-5 3.0. I checked everything out thoroughly, there isn't a coolant leak, just the high beam issue. For sake of completion though, if it does get a coolant leak, what part needs to be fixed/replaced? I can do all repairs myself so it's going to be free labor anyway.
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Jul 9, 2010 19:07
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keykey posted:I checked everything out thoroughly, there isn't a coolant leak, just the high beam issue. For sake of completion though, if it does get a coolant leak, what part needs to be fixed/replaced? I can do all repairs myself so it's going to be free labor anyway. The high beams should be easy. It's always the loving orange relay. Always. Even if the wire and fuses are missing, it's the drat relay. The 3.0L V6’s have an oil cooler mounted between the cylinder heads, sitting in a bath of coolant. This cools the oil circulating thru the oil cooler. The hoses/connectors can leak, and the coolant passages in the valley can leak, too. With the proper gear, you're looking at probably 4-6 hours of labor, minimum. Depending on what you all want to change, the parts average at about $1200 w/o the 'import markup tax'. I don't have WIS available and I'm stuck in a load of conferences, but you're looking at a good weekend's worth of work and about 1/4 of what the car's worth to get it running again.
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Jul 9, 2010 19:14
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And is the coolant issue fairly common like the high beam relay or is it a rare/uncommon thing to happen?
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Jul 9, 2010 19:33
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keykey posted:And is the coolant issue fairly common like the high beam relay or is it a rare/uncommon thing to happen? With the 3.0L? Yes. If it doesn't have meticulous records with everything documented, I'd give it a pass - and I'm a certified freak. B205/B235 w/ sludging is less work than a goddamn abused 3.0.
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Jul 9, 2010 19:36
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Would you happen to have a link to the high beam solder trick? I checked alldata at a friends shop for changing out the oil cooler and it didn't look that bad just time consuming.
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Jul 9, 2010 20:35
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keykey posted:Would you happen to have a link to the high beam solder trick? I checked alldata at a friends shop for changing out the oil cooler and it didn't look that bad just time consuming. You're braver than I am, and I rebuilt my B235E.  No real link for that, per se. Pull the relay and crack it open. Resolder the leads (give it a good glob, but not a cold solder) - EVEN if they look fine. Put the cap back on. Tape it up good. Put cover back on. Pray. Kick the high beams on. Nuclear Tourist just did his. Did mine last August. Seems to be holding OK.
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Jul 9, 2010 20:44
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Are the saab highbeam relays universal? Such as, would I be able to take one out of a 94 saab and put it into a 99?
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Jul 9, 2010 22:01
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No. Just try twisting it gently to either directly with it 'on' and see if it works. If so, solder the bitch.
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Jul 9, 2010 23:25
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ssh posted:No. Just try twisting it gently to either directly with it 'on' and see if it works. If so, solder the bitch. Found the answer to my own question is yes, all the Saabs I pulled the part from had the orange high beam relay ending in 070 from the 92-04 model. Our local Pick N Pull
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Jul 13, 2010 00:45
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keykey posted:Found the answer to my own question is yes, all the Saabs I pulled the part from had the orange high beam relay ending in 070 from the 92-04 model. Our local Pick N Pull FWIW, You specified years, not specific models. They did not all use 41-09-070. Only NG900, 9000, 9-3, and 9-5 use that one. A C900s 93/94 would not work. Edit: I don't see a lot of 900, 9000, or 9-x parts anywhere within a 200 mile radius. Everything's almost always picked clean. So, maybe my 'lots of luck buddy' response seemed a little spergy. So, yeah. Now I know who the hell to pester for parts. 
ssh fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jul 13, 2010 |
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Jul 13, 2010 01:16
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Fair enough, most of the Saabs at the local PNP were fairly in tact. I bet if I went to a bay area yard I wouldn't be as lucky, but in the valley I never see Saabs and between the one in my city and within a 45 mile radius there are around 20.
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Jul 13, 2010 15:38
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(Crossposted from 'Post your Own Ride):  Yeah. Nummer tree. Already discovered a 2K1 9-3 issue w/ the ignition switch. Alarms don't work if the switch is worn and it doesn't register as the key is in, or out. Ask me how I figured this out, then ask me if I know what graphite tastes like. ssh fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Jul 22, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 01:26
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Tip: Put in post above. v  v
ssh fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Jul 22, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 06:07
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Saab 900 convertibles: How are these for wind noise and warmth in cold weather?
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Jul 22, 2010 06:09
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8ender posted:Saab 900 convertibles: How are these for wind noise and warmth in cold weather? What year? C or NG? the newer (NG) is basically the predecessor to the 9-3, and as long as the top is in decent shape, it's really not all that obnoxious - however it IS noticeably different than a sedan. Every C900 I've seen had a thrashed top and dodgy service history. Also, it's harder than gently caress to get any transmission parts for a 900. Stay away unless you have a good source, or you like throwing a few grand out the window.
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Jul 22, 2010 06:14
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NG900, 1997. Rarity of transmission parts, does this affect the NG? I've looked at a few 900s that needed a new clutch and when I went online and saw what it takes I realized why they're so cheap. Right now I commute 50 miles each way two or three times a week on the 401, a 100km/h highway. I actually like having most of the windows down during summer but I like it warm and quiet in winter.
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Jul 22, 2010 06:24
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8ender posted:NG900, 1997. Rarity of transmission parts, does this affect the NG? Nowhere near as much as the C900, but it also helps if you have a steady supply of parts cars. Depending on what's wrong, several parts have been made NLP (no longer produced), so you have to go grab them from a junker - if it still has them. I'd love a 900, but every single one I've seen (under the same price as a comparable 200x model) has been thoroughly thrashed.
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Jul 22, 2010 07:06
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keykey posted:Found the answer to my own question is yes, all the Saabs I pulled the part from had the orange high beam relay ending in 070 from the 92-04 model. Our local Pick N Pull For what it's worth, I had almost exactly the same problem as you on the 2000 9-3 I bought about two months ago (left highbeam was refusing to work). The hardest part about repairing it was prying the drat thing out of that orange plastic housing. So really, if someone as mechanically inept as me can fix it, anyone can. There weren't any visible cracks or anything but I soldered the connections anyways and, bam, the highbeams work again. I think it was the first time I had soldered something in like 20 years. This is the area you need to solder:  Click here for the full 743x491 image.
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Jul 22, 2010 11:06
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Well after getting my car together I seem to have developed another problem. 135K miles, 99 9-3 SYMPTOM OF PATIENT: When driving at 45+MPH if I hit a bump I feel the initial 'thump' and then there is an odd oscillation in the steering immediately afterword. As speed increases it gets worse with every bump, and multiple bumps make it feel like the 'death wobble' on a worn out lifted jeep. Acceleration makes it worse, and if I'm already accelerating and hit a bump sometimes I get wheel hop. Vibration is very light at 50-55MPH (without hitting a bump), goes away and is from then on only induced by hitting a bump in the road. POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS: *Bad motor mounts could be causing the transmission to flop around in weird ways *Subframe loose - car was in an accident a long time ago and has a lame 'fix' for one of the front mounting bolts for the subframe *Bad tie rods/ball joints - these wear out and I'm sure they're stock. I know I can check them by jacking the car up and jerking around the wheel. top/bottom is ball joint and left/right is tie rod right? *Suspension bushings shot or other broken suspension bits *Broken or FUBAR steering rack *Possible worn bushings in transmission; I've heard that where the axle plugs into the transmission can wear and cause a vibration that is an absolute bastard to fix. Oh god I am so far $-wise into this car and I have no idea which of these items it may be and how much time/$ it will cost me to fix it. Any ideas on which is more likely? and for a little more bitching my car needs (you don't have to read this if you don't want): *New brakes all around (pads/rotors) *New motor mounts - it's hard to shift after acceleration and my shifter moves like 5+" on a good rip through 2nt *Me to install the new shifter bushings (take apart console yay) *Transmission rebuilt - it leaks expensive fluid like a drat sieve and is always dry, this has hosed up the syncro for 3'rd and it's rough to shift into second *New CV axles as the boots have been ripped for some time. No clicking yet, but I know it will happen one day. *New tires all around *SID and ACC fix *Me to finally order the drat heater core hoses and replace them (such a bitch due to space, and I can only find the hose online because of different size input/outputs) *New suspension bushings anyways as it creaks and groans like the Titanic *Me to finally swap over the rear pass window motor mechanism from the junkyard door - drill out the drat rivets (WHY USE RIVETS?) for both doors and swap *Exhaust has rusted through right under the shifter and it's quite loud - also backfires on occasion. *Also the plastic shields under the front of the car are either gone or destroyed, including the drivers side wheel well cover. at least the new turbo makes it haul rear end... 
Captain Crunk fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jul 22, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 17:44
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Captain Crunk posted:SYMPTOM OF PATIENT: If you're not getting any TCS errors, it's not going to cost as much as it could. I'd start off by checking out the mounts, first of all, due to the clunk. The 2K wobbled like a bitch until I replaced the two I broke. I'd honestly start with the mounts - it's the easiest to spy and diagnose. At 135k you shouldn't have a completely destroyed suspension, but then again, lord knows..
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Jul 22, 2010 17:47
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Captain Crunk posted:and for a little more bitching my car needs (you don't have to read this if you don't want): I'm about to become a destitute student so I feel your pain, if it's any consolation. I have a constantly growing list of things I need to have fixed. Crankcase ventilation would probably be on the top of the list, but other than that the brake callipers look disturbingly rusted and the brakes also tend to squeal quite vigourously at times, so a brake job would probably be in order. Then there's the air conditioning which doesn't work, which is somewhat annoying since it's the hottest summer on record. The aerial is bent and won't retract properly, could probably use a new set of summer tires, also need to get a new set of winter tires before October or so, and the power mirrors don't work because one of the previous owners managed to rip off the driver's side rear view mirror and... and... 
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Jul 22, 2010 22:03
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Nuclear Tourist posted:I'm about to become a destitute student I don't think you could have phrased that any more appropriately. That's the one problem - if you get one that has NOT been taken care of, it's still drivable, but it will nickel and dime the living gently caress out of you until you die. On the other hand, the ones in really great shape are never for sale.
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Jul 22, 2010 23:59
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Ahoy. I feel kind of bad posting "HEY I HAVE A PROBLEM HELP ME", but I'm not really finding the specific information I need in any of the usual places. Captain Crunk's list of woes definitely makes me feel a little better about my car's problems though, I have to say. Anyway. My '99 9-3's alarm battery seems to be going kaputski (Hell, maybe this is the second alarm/set of batteries; the previous owner didn't mention it but it's old enough that I wouldn't be shocked at this point), and now the car starts freaking out if she gets too hot. This is kind of a problem, since this summer has been unreasonably hot. I don't really give a poo poo if the alarm is operational - the cops didn't show up at all when it went off for ten minutes the other day, which only reinforces my feelings on alarms. What I don't know is if the car's still going to turn on if I go in and just yank the power cable from the alarm box, or if there's an immobilizer I have to worry about. If I don't have to spend the money on new batteries and soldering stuff right now for a system I don't even care about, I'm not going to, but if I have to, I have to.
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Jul 25, 2010 02:41
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