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cmorrow001 posted:My endlinks are worn out and i've decided to upgrade. Equal size swaybars front and rear.
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Jul 9, 2010 04:39
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My 05 Impreza Outback Sport w/ 76k miles has a very minor head gasket leak. No dripping or puddles, just a little residue and moisture under two small spots on the left and right side of the block. Will replacing the coolant and using a bottle of Subaru coolant conditioner (Holt's Radweld) likely solve my dilemma? I mean, it's smarter to try this and fail than to spend hundreds replacing the head gasket if I didn't need to, right? Since it's an 05, it doesn't fall under the service campaign, does it? Why does the campaign stop at model year 03 when the issue clearly didn't stop with that model year? Since I'm on the subject of coolant: Subaru calls for a phosphate type coolant and most on the market are phosphate-free. What brands aren't phosphate free and are safe to use in my car? Is my engine the phase II 2.5? Just making sure in case I do need to get a new gasket I'm going to get the new Six-Star stainless head gaskets that won't degrade.
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Jul 9, 2010 08:06
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Yes it's phase 2.
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Jul 9, 2010 10:45
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jamal posted:Equal size swaybars front and rear. Any reason for this? Per the FAQ on nasioc, most people go for a slightly larger front. Seat Safety Switch posted:Also, did your Hush make a big difference? I'm not much for really loud exhausts but this is perfect. A bit louder than stock (sounds great at WOT), doesn't sound too loud in the car, and sounds great from the outside. Best part is that it's quiet enough to not cause the Police to harass you.
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Jul 9, 2010 15:06
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Where do you guys put jack stands under your Subarus? I've heard that normal jack stands (In my case, the generic Harbour Freight 3-ton ones) can fit OK on the pinch-welds used for jacking... but I've already crumpled one of the stupid things in an act of jacking idiocy and would like to keep the other 3 in tact. Do you guys use the pinch-welds, or other points? I've always just used ramps before for basic maintenance, so this is new to me.
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Jul 9, 2010 18:30
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Harbor Freight has little rubber caps for their jackstands, I put those on and it seems to help with the whole not crushing the pinch welds. Not sure if there's a better way, but it works well enough for me. If I may keep pestering about Trans/Diff fluids, I did some more looking around and was recommended this kit http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=76 It contains - 1 Pennzoil Synchromesh Quart 2 Castrol Hypoy C 80w90 1 Redline Lightweight Shockproof apparently its gotten a few good reviews, and is actually fairly inexpensive for the whole kit. Anyone think it is a bad idea? As it stands I am looking at picking this up tonight after work.
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Jul 9, 2010 19:08
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PabloBOOM posted:Where do you guys put jack stands under your Subarus? I've heard that normal jack stands (In my case, the generic Harbour Freight 3-ton ones) can fit OK on the pinch-welds used for jacking... but I've already crumpled one of the stupid things in an act of jacking idiocy and would like to keep the other 3 in tact. Do you guys use the pinch-welds, or other points? I've always just used ramps before for basic maintenance, so this is new to me. Instead of crunching the pinch seam, I've been crushing the front subframe right where it ends. It's flattened out from my hooning already so gently caress it. There's also the unibody rail right behind it which doesn't seem to crush in. For the rear I just use the diff. The rear subframe outriggers will crush and rattle like a motherfucker.
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Jul 9, 2010 19:30
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Mutar posted:Harbor Freight has little rubber caps for their jackstands, I put those on and it seems to help with the whole not crushing the pinch welds. Not sure if there's a better way, but it works well enough for me. That's the mix I was using previously (minus the shockproof.) Apparently recently people have been doing some oil analysis of it after it's been in the transmission for a period and the cocktail turns acidic which could possibly start wearing some components faster.
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Jul 9, 2010 19:39
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Any chance you could link me to what you're referring to? I've been dicking about a bit at NASIOC but haven't come across it yet. I really figured it would be easy to find a standard "4qts of x or 2qts x plus 2qts y" that people had luck with.
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Jul 9, 2010 20:13
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cmorrow001 posted:Any reason for this? Per the FAQ on nasioc, most people go for a slightly larger front. I wouldn't trust a word of what NASIOC says about sway bars and handling - especially if there is a word of camber curves. quote:Really? Does it suck? That's funny because Subaru recently boasted the diesel is now 10% of sales in Australia. 10% of Subaru owners in Australia are morons. The diesel is useless as tits on a bull.
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Jul 9, 2010 20:22
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PorkFat posted:My 05 Impreza Outback Sport w/ 76k miles has a very minor head gasket leak. No dripping or puddles, just a little residue and moisture under two small spots on the left and right side of the block. It's doubtful coolant conditioner will help anything at this point but I guess you could try it. Use subaru coolant. I put in about 70% distilled water along with a bottle of water wetter for summer and warm climates. What's a six star stailess steel gasket? Just use oem sti gaskets. 11044aa642
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Jul 9, 2010 20:34
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Mutar posted:Any chance you could link me to what you're referring to? I've been dicking about a bit at NASIOC but haven't come across it yet. I really figured it would be easy to find a standard "4qts of x or 2qts x plus 2qts y" that people had luck with. Here's the thread in question. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24034470#post24034470 Basically, there are signs of excessive wear and the TAN results on some samples came back on the high side for acidity. So, I think I would stay away from it from now on. I would use either the Andrewtech cocktail (3qts Redline Lightweight Shockproof and 1 qt Motul 300) or Subaru Extra S. After what happened with Uncle Scotty's Cocktail though, I think i would shy away from the Andrewtech cocktail (or any cocktail.) Subaru Extra S seems like the safest thing right now. Fredbeansparts buys the drums and breaks them down into quart bottles for the Subaru Extra S. http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/subaru-extra-s-75w90-gear-oil.html bull3964 fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Jul 9, 2010 |
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Jul 9, 2010 20:39
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cmorrow001 posted:Any reason for this? Per the FAQ on nasioc, most people go for a slightly larger front. I think it depends on which chassis. I know with the GR (08+) everyone suggests larger front - but on the previous cars I think that jamal is correct.
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Jul 9, 2010 21:40
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Mutar posted:Harbor Freight has little rubber caps for their jackstands, I put those on and it seems to help with the whole not crushing the pinch welds. Not sure if there's a better way, but it works well enough for me. Hockey pucks. Cheap as hell, buy a few and you'll be set. bull3964 posted:Andrewtech cocktail 3qts Redline Lightweight Shockproof and 1 qt Motul 300 This tranny fluid combination worked great in my 5MT for the ~35k miles I ran it, and got rid of some light grinding, I would recommend it to anyone with a 5MT Subaru. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jul 9, 2010 |
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Jul 9, 2010 21:41
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poo poo double post 
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Jul 9, 2010 21:45
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jamal posted:It's doubtful coolant conditioner will help anything at this point but I guess you could try it. From what I read and what the dealership said, coolant conditioner is designed exactly for my problem, which is a problem with a lot of Subarus. The conditioner is actually a sealant but it doesn't sound as bad to say "we're adding a conditioner to your coolant" as it does to say "we're adding a sealant to your coolant (because we hosed up the engineering process). As for the stainless gaskets: http://www.smart-service.com/blog/2010/03/which-head-gasket-is-best-for-a-subaru And these guys: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/ recommend them as well. The reason I asked about coolant is because I live an hour and a half from the closest dealership and really don't feel like spending $20 round trip in gas to buy over-priced coolant when I can hopefully get something locally. But I'll be bringing it to the dealer anyway for the 60k service. I just don't get a good vibe from any local shop around here. ForkPat fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jul 9, 2010 |
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Jul 9, 2010 22:03
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Well, any green coolant should be fine. My car is filled with mostly water anyway. As for the swaybars, a subaru or most any other awd car is at a disadvantage from the start. You have all four wheels trying to accelerate the car, and then are asking the fronts to do the steering. Recipe for understeer, so you need to crank up the stiffness in the rear. The dowside is that the car ends up pretty loose on turn in, and if you do something like lift or brake in the miffle of a corner. Putting a 22mm rear bar on with the stock 20mm front was probably the best change I've ever made. Putting on the 22mm front kept the car flatter but I liked the balance more with just a rear bar.
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Jul 9, 2010 23:28
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jamal posted:As for the swaybars, a subaru or most any other awd car is at a disadvantage from the start. You have all four wheels trying to accelerate the car, and then are asking the fronts to do the steering. Recipe for understeer, so you need to crank up the stiffness in the rear. The dowside is that the car ends up pretty loose on turn in, and if you do something like lift or brake in the miffle of a corner. Thanks for the input. Makes sense.
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Jul 10, 2010 01:20
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TurboLuvah posted:Hockey pucks. Cheap as hell, buy a few and you'll be set. I can't believe I've never thought of this... Awesome idea. Weight support on pinch welds, here I come!
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Jul 11, 2010 09:09
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My wife's Forester needs new brake pads soon and I was thinking about a set of Hawk HPS pads. Does anyone have any experience with them?
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Jul 11, 2010 14:51
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I have them. Perfectly fine for a daily driver and they can take a little more abuse than the stock pads.
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Jul 12, 2010 01:32
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So I seem to be blowing boost hoses off the the t-junction that is under the intercooler (05 LGT). Has happened twice in 3 weeks. Any lazy way to keep this from happening? Removing my intercooler every 3 weeks to reattach a loving hose is going to get annoying. Ropes4u posted:My wife's Forester needs new brake pads soon and I was thinking about a set of Hawk HPS pads. Does anyone have any experience with them? Mutar posted:If I may keep pestering about Trans/Diff fluids, I did some more looking around and was recommended this kit Their internet reputation well exceeds that of people who've actually had tier cars there. I have had not had any experiences with them because people ahve warned me off, but I'd be very careful. nm fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Jul 12, 2010 |
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Jul 12, 2010 02:07
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So, on a 93 Impreza, and most other Subarus of this vintage, all the doors EXCEPT the driver door have power locks. The driver door lock just has a switch that triggers all the other doors to lock or unlock. If I want to add an aftermarket alarm/keyless entry module, I know I need a lock actuator for the driver door. My question is, how should I hook it up? Should my new actuator be wired parallel to all the other door locks so they can all be triggered directly by my keyless entry module? If I do that should I disable the switch on the driver door lock to avoid any kind of weird feedback effect? Or, should I hook my keyless entry module up to the driver door lock actuator ONLY, so that the keyless entry will trigger the driver door lock, which will in turn trigger all the other doors? The first option is simpler in operation, but the second has the appeal of leaving the stock system intact. Has anybody else had to deal with this?
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Jul 12, 2010 04:13
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Years ago, I added an alarm (with keyless entry) to my '93 legacy, and we just hooked the alarm up to the driver's newly-added actuator (which in turn triggered all the other power locks). I don't see how wiring the alarm into the stock system PLUS the new driver's system would be any simpler.
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Jul 12, 2010 05:27
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syphon posted:Years ago, I added an alarm (with keyless entry) to my '93 legacy, and we just hooked the alarm up to the driver's newly-added actuator (which in turn triggered all the other power locks). I don't see how wiring the alarm into the stock system PLUS the new driver's system would be any simpler. Thanks, that makes sense. I guess simpler isn't what I meant, symmetric would be a better word. I found some instructions for the factory keyless add-on for the '95 legacy, and from what I can tell, hooking it up only to the driver's door is exactly what they did. I think that's what I'll plan on doing as well, thanks! http://www.scoobymods.com/1995-1996-legacy-keyless-t4607.html?t=4607 quadpus fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Jul 12, 2010 |
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Jul 12, 2010 06:19
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This weekend I went trunk swapping. Click here for the full 1024x765 image.  Click here for the full 1024x765 image. Good times, and easy as hell. Only weird thing was my lock seized. I think some of the grease or whatever lube is on it jammed up in one of the tumblers. Anyway some WD-40 and a day later and I worked it loose again. I think the next thing I'll do is get an access port.
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Jul 13, 2010 00:19
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quadpus posted:Thanks, that makes sense. I guess simpler isn't what I meant, symmetric would be a better word.
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Jul 13, 2010 01:58
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Air Oil Separators; Waste of money or godsend engine saver? I've read a lot about ringland failure on the 08+ STI's which I'm somewhat concerned with as I look into modding my car. Is an AOS a good investment? Is a catch can good enough? I'm looking at these - http://store.crawfordperformance.com/store/products/334 (Catch can requires maintenance) http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=91&products_id=191 (dumps into engine, but can the baffle be large enough to be effective? also the cost for what you get here seems a bit off) http://perrinperformance.com/products/show/56/Oil-Catch-Can-Overflow-Tank?category=4&model=23 (simple catch can) As far as driving style is concerned, I drive the car pretty hard (autocross, rallycross, track time, etc...). Any input is appreciated.
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Jul 13, 2010 02:17
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I just ordered 2 cheapo ebay catch cans for $10 each +shipping. Seems like there are plenty of people who make their own catch cans, so I'd say don't feel like you have to get something with a brand name on it. The grimmspeed one is cool only because it dumps the oil back into the crank case for you. But I'd rather keep that as sealed a system as possible. The catch can's I got have a visible indicator on the outside so you know how full they are and they hold like 750ml which should hopefully mean a long time between *needing* to empty them. As for reasons to get one, there are tons of them, just read the advertising for the expensive catch cans. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220530849426&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1764wt_1111 Are the ones I bought. They haven't arrived yet but they look *ok* from the photos. only thing I was going to do was get some black fuel line hose to use instead of that translucent blue stuff... But we'll see how I'm feeling when I get them. Might just use the hose they come with.
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Jul 13, 2010 05:17
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allonblack posted:Air Oil Separators; Waste of money or godsend engine saver? I like them, especially when you've got a bigger turbo. The crawford is the nicest one on the market, but it's really just a can with some baffles and pieces of pipe welded to it. That said, installation is simple and it comes with everything you need, including all the hoses cut to the right length. It just seems like even a healthy motor will send quite a bit of oil back into the intake through the PCV system, which makes the car more prone to detonate and crack a ringland. I have a whole drat box of cracked pistons at the shop.
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Jul 13, 2010 06:55
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What's the theory behind catch cans/air oil separators (are they the same thing?) that don't dump back into the PCV? I thought they were all designed to separate air and oil in the intake system (like for a turbo with a leaking sleeve bearing). How do they prevent ringland failure if you just catch the oil and don't send it back into the sump to be reused? It looks like it's just that if you blow some oil into the intake air when the engine only expects air, it might detonate. I thought it was designed to prevent oil starvation when the engine occasionally shits up a few mL between oil changes into the intercooler, but I guess that was wrong. I guess that if it makes enough of a difference in that regard, you've probably been ignoring your oil check and are hosed anyway. I wonder if I should bother putting one on my car; an increased safety net sure doesn't hurt. Some of them seem awfully expensive; they must either be made out of some fancy material or built to really anal specs. edit: through multiple edits I have answered all of my questions. this is a useless post. 
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Jul 13, 2010 |
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Jul 13, 2010 07:11
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jamal posted:I like them, especially when you've got a bigger turbo. The crawford is the nicest one on the market, but it's really just a can with some baffles and pieces of pipe welded to it. That said, installation is simple and it comes with everything you need, including all the hoses cut to the right length. So it sounds like overall this is a good idea to help protect my motor. Any thoughts on the crawford one bypassing the pcv entirely? Are two ebay catch cans going to do the same job? I don't want to spend ~400 bucks if I can do the same job cheaper (more money for a bigger turbo  ). The installation part isn't really enough to push me to spend 100 bucks more on the Crawford and the Grimspeed is appealing as there's no can to maintain, but I'm a bit skeptical of the design. Seat Safety Switch posted:edit: through multiple edits I have answered all of my questions. this is a useless post. Every time I went to hit quote to reply and answer, you had already figured it out - well done.
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Jul 13, 2010 07:52
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Well, just having a can doesn't do a whole lot to keep oil out of the intake tract. Until we got a large can and then added baffles our evo was just dumping oil right out the other side. I don't know what the inside of the grimmspeed looks like so I can't comment. You could do your own system, and I would. Just make sure you use large diameter hose and baffle the cans. Ditching the pcv isn't an issue as long as you still have some way to vent the crankcase
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Jul 13, 2010 08:37
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Is this along the lines of what you mean by building your own? http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/63348-oil-catch-can-install-cheap-nice.html Taking a catch can, putting a tube in it below a filter of some sort or another?
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Jul 13, 2010 09:23
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Pfffft. You dont need anything that fancy, I use a lemonade bottle
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Jul 13, 2010 11:48
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Cat Terrist posted:Pfffft. You dont need anything that fancy, I use a lemonade bottle It's also his on-board piss tank too. Trucker bombs are a flyin' when CT is racin'.
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Jul 13, 2010 14:14
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Sockington posted:It's also his on-board piss tank too. Trucker bombs are a flyin' when CT is racin'.
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Jul 13, 2010 16:16
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nm posted:
Honestly I just picked them because they are less than 2 miles from my place. I was able to stop in in person, grab what I needed, and get out. Probably not how most people do it, but hey, it worked for me.
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Jul 13, 2010 21:47
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A friend and I were in my car idling at a drive through, I hear a clink, a clunk, and a rattle. As I'm leaving I notice: Battery Light lit Parking Brake Light lit No power steering No A/C Passenger headlight is out. We eat in a parking lot with the engine on, and I drive home with all the problems mentioned. I looked under the hood and I peeked between the alternator((?)(in the center at the top of the belt driven accessory heap)) and a shroud for it and saw it had no belt. Does this happen often without squeaks and warnings? Would putting a new belt fix most of the issues? Which issues are related? Could I fix all this myself in a morning? Would it cost a lot to have it fixed? 75k mile '04 2.5rs sedan.
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Jul 14, 2010 03:13
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Barn Owl posted:A friend and I were in my car idling at a drive through, I hear a clink, a clunk, and a rattle. As I'm leaving I notice: Right underneath that shroud is where the two drive belts run. One is for the AC compressor and the other is for the alternator and power steering pump. Have you ever had those belts changed? They have a 60k mile interval change. If they've never been changed then most likely one or both snapped and took the other with it. I just changed those belts a few weeks ago and the job took me all of 45 minutes to do and I had never messed with them before. Replacing those belts should fix all of the above lights and problems. You can easily buy both belts at your local parts store since they are same across all 4cylinder non-turbo Subaru engines.
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Jul 14, 2010 04:47
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