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Pearl again doesn't turn over. I did the old "screwdrive in the spark wire" routine to see of there was a spark. Nothing. Problem located?
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Jul 11, 2010 10:02
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Crispulus posted:Pearl again doesn't turn over. I did the old "screwdrive in the spark wire" routine to see of there was a spark. Nothing. Problem located? Very generally? Now you have someplace to start, though. What's the symptom list?
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Jul 11, 2010 10:14
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Splizwarf posted:Very generally? Now you have someplace to start, though. What's the symptom list? Starter is spinning the fan. Starter works. Fuel pump hums and I smell a little fuel after a long period of cranking. Fuel pump works. I shoved as phillips in the coil to dist. cap; no sparks. Methinks my IPD blue coil is dead. I'm sure I still have the original one (plus a few 240 ones around) and I play with that tomorrow before work. If it is the case I might invest in an MSD coil plus MSD wires plus NGK iridium plugs. A fellow gearhead (GM fans would cream their pants over his garage) really talked up MSD today. I don't need Pearl to run because my stolen bicycle was returned minus my bike bling and plus two lovely tires where my fresh new ones were were returned. (fun story there). AND I should have the Rollercoaster should be done from the shop. That and I really don't want to plater her now as July is always BILL MONTH.
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Jul 11, 2010 10:38
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Crispulus posted:Starter is spinning the fan. Starter works. Fuel pump hums and I smell a little fuel after a long period of cranking. Fuel pump works. I shoved as phillips in the coil to dist. cap; no sparks. Methinks my IPD blue coil is dead. I'm sure I still have the original one (plus a few 240 ones around) and I play with that tomorrow before work. If it is the case I might invest in an MSD coil plus MSD wires plus NGK iridium plugs. A fellow gearhead (GM fans would cream their pants over his garage) really talked up MSD today. Check resistance on your primary and secondary and test for power and ground before swapping. Problem could be further up the pipe, or just a bad primary ground and so on. What engine is in Pearl? What's providing your coil pulses? Also, I think my spark tester was $1.50 and it's been reliable so far.  The screwdriver trick always drives me nuts, I've seen it fail and I like to be sure.
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Jul 11, 2010 11:12
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Splizwarf posted:Check resistance on your primary and secondary and test for power and ground before swapping. Problem could be further up the pipe, or just a bad primary ground and so on. What engine is in Pearl? What's providing your coil pulses? B30F.
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Jul 11, 2010 17:03
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T1g4h posted:Agggggh... I think I may be posting in this thread regularly soon. Gonna hopefully look at a '92 740 Turbo wagon with 180k miles on it this week. Anything in particular i should look for? Guy says it holds oil pressure fine, no smoke, nada, only issue is the a/c isn't cold. Good deal for $1500 if it all checks out? A '92 is a great and reliable car. It's tough to hide problems on them, but if you want to be 100%, get it checked out by an independent Volvo shop. Should cost less than a bill. I've seen tons of Hydras for between $200 and $300 a set on turbobricks. Very affordable. If you have a little more money, a set of 25mm spacers will give you the incredible variety of FWD volvo wheels, and many of them look infinitely better than anything that fits a RWD car. Crispulus posted:Starter is spinning the fan. Starter works. Fuel pump hums and I smell a little fuel after a long period of cranking. Fuel pump works. I shoved as phillips in the coil to dist. cap; no sparks. Methinks my IPD blue coil is dead. Are you still using points in that? If so that's the first place I'd look. Also, if you are using points, do you ever sit in Pearl with the key on in position 2? Because if you do that and the points just happen to be closed, you'll actually kill the coil that way. That's why cars have 2 key positions to begin with.
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Jul 12, 2010 01:13
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The rust on the wheel wings is pretty drat common in Canada. I know it's on my 850, and most of them unless it's been redone around here. Depends on road salt. I'm pretty sure the US didn't get 5-speed 850's, Canada however did.
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Jul 12, 2010 02:38
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sbaldrick posted:I'm pretty sure the US didn't get 5-speed 850's, Canada however did. We got 5-speed 850s in the USA, they're just uncommon. My father has a very nice 1994 850 5-speed sedan. I am fairly certain that turbo 850s were never offered with a manual in America, though. (unless the t5r or 850r or other overrated fruity wagon variants was 5-speed, too lazy to google since I don't care.)
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Jul 12, 2010 05:19
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LloydDobler posted:
Huh! Well, prior to this problem I did have the key in position two for a hot minute while I wrestled with the front turn signals because they kinda suck. Having said that, I put the old coil on to no avail and I'm leaning towards missing a ground somewhere but in all honestly electrics are a total mystery to me. All I understand are intravenous medications and righty tighty lefty loosey and only one of those things are car related.
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Jul 12, 2010 07:56
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Crispulus posted:All I understand are intravenous medications and righty tighty lefty loosey and only one of those things are car related. Wouldn't nitrous fall into the first category? I think you're okay on both.
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Jul 12, 2010 08:24
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Crispulus posted:Huh! Well, prior to this problem I did have the key in position two for a hot minute while I wrestled with the front turn signals because they kinda suck. Didn't answer the question, are you using points? If you don't know what I'm talking about then that's likely your problem. They're cheap and you replace them frequently on that car. The only way you wouldn't be using them is if you or a PO converted it to electronic ignition, which I highly recommend anyway when you can afford it. It's only like $100 to do the conversion.
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Jul 12, 2010 17:16
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LloydDobler posted:Didn't answer the question, are you using points? If you don't know what I'm talking about then that's likely your problem. They're cheap and you replace them frequently on that car. The only way you wouldn't be using them is if you or a PO converted it to electronic ignition, which I highly recommend anyway when you can afford it. It's only like $100 to do the conversion. Are we talking distributer points or this thing? http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut...54193&3671=1002 It turned over today. Spat out a load of carbon from the exhaust, then died. Lloyd Dobler, patron saint of goon bricks.
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Jul 12, 2010 18:05
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Crispulus posted:Are we talking distributer points or this thing? Well, that linked part is what I'm referring to, and they go inside the distributor. Pull the cap and see if the contact looks all crusty or really worn out. Your car has D-Jetronic, right? If so then you have additional points below in the side of the distributor that just give a signal to the EFI, but I'm not talking about those.
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Jul 12, 2010 18:34
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LloydDobler posted:Well, that linked part is what I'm referring to, and they go inside the distributor. Pull the cap and see if the contact looks all crusty or really worn out. Already done, but before I went to work and with not enough time to upload a pic. Here is the pic.  Click here for the full 604x453 image. I think that should not be so frayed. But it isn't one of the points. What is that? Crispulus fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Jul 13, 2010 |
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Jul 13, 2010 05:06
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Are you talking about the wire in the lower right? That's just a ground wire that keeps the rotating plate that your points are mounted on in contact with the distributor housing and engine block. It's uninsulated and flexible, so yeah it always looks like that. Spread the points and look at the contacts. Rotate the motor and make sure they open and close with the right gap as indicated in the manual. But seriously, drop the $100 and get a pertronix igniter. Points suck. Edit: Can't find one for your car. Oh poo poo. Welp, time for you to buy a dwell meter and learn to set points. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Jul 13, 2010 |
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Jul 13, 2010 16:16
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Different car. 1984 245 GLT, m46. Installed the Skandix 2.5 inch exhaust. No hole for o2 sensor (o2 sensor before cat / cat delete). Car dies at idle because, well, no o2 sensor there. I've heard of o2 sensor simulators, etc. Would that be a viable option or should I have a muffler shop drill a hole so I can have my o2 sensor plugged back in. FUUUUUUUUUCK ME. Or not. I think I could just complete the circuit with the right resistance the circuit expects back from the o2 sensor I think we could be right as rain. Crispulus fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Jul 18, 2010 |
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Jul 17, 2010 22:57
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Go get an O2 bung welded on. Modern cars can get away with tricks to fool the computer on the 2nd O2 sensor, because its only purpose is to verify cat function. That's what you've heard about. On your car, you only have one O2 sensor which actually controls the fuel mixture, so you can't bypass it or simulate it. In fact, you wouldn't ever want to, because closed loop fuel systems are vastly more efficient than open loop.
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Jul 18, 2010 02:35
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LloydDobler posted:Go get an O2 bung welded on. Modern cars can get away with tricks to fool the computer on the 2nd O2 sensor, because its only purpose is to verify cat function. That's what you've heard about. On your car, you only have one O2 sensor which actually controls the fuel mixture, so you can't bypass it or simulate it. In fact, you wouldn't ever want to, because closed loop fuel systems are vastly more efficient than open loop. Awwww. Okay. I was all excited about playing with electrics. But that was my first guess, looks like it was the correct one. Edit. t-bricks seems to think that the o2 sensor should have never been after turbo before cat. Does anyone have a b21FT? Could you tell me where your o2 sensor is and/or take a picture? Crispulus fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Jul 18, 2010 |
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Jul 18, 2010 02:49
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Crispulus posted:Awwww. Okay. I was all excited about playing with electrics. But that was my first guess, looks like it was the correct one. On my 242T parts car, the O2 sensor was located at the bottom of the collector of the exhaust manifold, pointing straight up. The wire should be going to a connector near the firewall, if it's there at all.
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Jul 20, 2010 18:24
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Ok so I think the cutting out was fixed by replacing the downpipe going to the turbo from the MAF. But THEN I started to notice some extra noise coming from the engine and that evolved into a loud air noise and a blown exhaust gasket on the third cylinder. It's a 940 Turbo that looks exactly like TheJeffers'. The place I take it for repairs when I can't handle it, or don't have time, wants $400 minimum to do it. I already picked up the gaskets and have pulled the headers on my Mustang many times, but the bolts on the 940 are rusted and the shop was worried they would break and said the price would go up in that situation. I don't have the cash, so am asking ya'll for any tips on this. I've been soaking the bolts in WD-40 every few days when the engine is hot to loosen them up, but haven't had a full day off to start on it yet. (It also keeps raining and I don't have access to my carport. Will I be able to reuse the bolts/nuts (they're bolts on my 302, but I don't about the red block)? I've heard of Volvo using ones that need to be replaced upon removal. Do I need to remove the turbo and disconnect the pipe going to the cat first? On the Mustang once the bolts are out it will lean over enough to get the old gasket off the block, so that's what I'm used to. I searched on turbobricks and brickboard, but nothing specific came up. Cakefool posted:2nd car I was almost orgasming in delighted excitement, the car was loving perfect. It burst into flames when I pulled up back at the dudes house. This happened on a date once...
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Jul 22, 2010 14:24
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Soak them in something better than WD-40, pick up a can of PB blaster at your local auto parts store. I would say get new nuts just for the fact that you will then start over with corrosion. I wouldn't try changing the studs except for the ones you break. And I'm assuming you'll break some.
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Jul 22, 2010 17:58
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Sir Tonk posted:This happened on a date once... I really wish I was kidding. Anyway, a massive long shot I know, but are any UK Volvo goons near Luton? There's a car I want to go see but it's nearly 3 hours away & I don't have a spare day.
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Jul 22, 2010 18:12
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LloydDobler posted:And I'm assuming you'll break some. Yeah this is what I want to avoid. I don't have a pulling kit and don't really have the time for the car out of commission for more than six hours at a time. Oh well, I'll see how it goes. I can't afford over $500 for a car I'll likely be selling soon (gonna get a V70R wagon next year, but need to get the Mustang painted first) Should I order the nuts from Volvo, or can I get them from Autozone or some other parts store? I might pick up new studs as well, just in case. I can sell them to the shop if I don't use them.
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Jul 23, 2010 03:43
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Sir Tonk posted:Should I order the nuts from Volvo, or can I get them from Autozone or some other parts store? I might pick up new studs as well, just in case. I can sell them to the shop if I don't use them. I don't think Volvo's nuts and studs are anything special, I'd get 'em from the local store. Just make sure they're the right thread.
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Jul 23, 2010 03:53
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Sir Tonk posted:Yeah this is what I want to avoid. I don't have a pulling kit and don't really have the time for the car out of commission for more than six hours at a time. Oh well, I'll see how it goes. I can't afford over $500 for a car I'll likely be selling soon (gonna get a V70R wagon next year, but need to get the Mustang painted first) If you're going to own it for a couple more years (or you want to be a good PO, if you're selling soon), get the parts from Volvo. Volvo uses nuts made from some special poo poo that won't rust/corrode, they're like brass-lined Stover nuts. Otherwise, Car Quest will have what you need; Autozone might. For loosening, get some wax into the threads while the engine is hot.
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Jul 23, 2010 03:55
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Splizwarf posted:For loosening, get some wax into the threads while the engine is hot. Didn't think of using wax, that's pretty logical. And thanks for the other info, I figured Volvo has something along those lines.
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Jul 23, 2010 05:16
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The o2 sensor is welded after turbo now, like the prior exhaust, but I just have no idle still. Since I have no idea what could be causing that now I punted it down to the mechanic. Does anyone have any idea what would cause a Kjet to no idle?
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Jul 23, 2010 15:29
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Did you try adjusting the idle adjusting screw?
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Jul 23, 2010 17:18
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LloydDobler posted:Did you try adjusting the idle adjusting screw? Where was it located? I don't think Kjet has that. Djet does, but I don't know about Kjet with lambda sond. You mean the bit that is located by a hex screw? Under the sensor plate? Pearl is randomly working again, by the way. Crispulus fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Jul 23, 2010 |
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Jul 23, 2010 17:26
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Splizwarf posted:For loosening, get some wax into the threads while the engine is hot. Just saying, in case you (or anyone else) is having trouble with anything rusted shut, you need to soak (I mean soak) that in some good penetrating oil for a couple hours. if you're just dealing with metals it doesn't hurt to have a torch on hand either.
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Jul 23, 2010 19:29
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Looking at a '99 V70 tomorrow, what's to look out for with the electronic throttle?
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Jul 23, 2010 20:22
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Crispulus posted:Where was it located? I don't think Kjet has that. Djet does, but I don't know about Kjet with lambda sond. Kjet has an idle adjustment screw, it's black plastic and located right in front of the throttle plate on the lower outside part of the intake manifold. Here's a picture that shows it: http://www.volvoclubofbc.com/technical/techpics/2007/k-jetronic_640w.jpg If your car is set up differently, there's a different screw somewhere. I did some googling and I didn't see any reference to this, so I may be off a little. Cakefool posted:Looking at a '99 V70 tomorrow, what's to look out for with the electronic throttle? Check for it to have a yellow tag. You can see it right below the intake manifold when standing in front of the car (right behind the dipstick basically). Original ones are white. Other than that look for any irregularities in throttle action, like surging when accellerating or bucking when you let off the gas. If it's been replaced, it'll still go out again but you have more miles than if it's original. When it fails it'll be about $500 to have xemodex rebuild it permanently. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Jul 23, 2010 |
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Jul 23, 2010 21:10
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Engine's block will be at my house back from the machine shop, resurfaced and head bolt extracted. Rebuilding it tonight. I have the crank position sensor and now all I need is a good intermediate shaft and square tooth crank gear, which I plan on getting very soon. Garage is almost clean. Engine swap is almost here! 
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Jul 23, 2010 21:14
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LloydDobler posted:Check for it to have a yellow tag. You can see it right below the intake manifold when standing in front of the car (right behind the dipstick basically). Original ones are white. Other than that look for any irregularities in throttle action, like surging when accellerating or bucking when you let off the gas. If it's been replaced, it'll still go out again but you have more miles than if it's original. When it fails it'll be about $500 to have xemodex rebuild it permanently. Stupid question, it's a diesel  - do these have the electronic throttle module?Other than that I'm looking for free play & stiffness in steering, top coolant hose not being floppy or rock hard, oil leaks from the rear of the engine, evidence of leaky heater matrix etc yes? Also, timing belt/water pump & belt are vital changes in this I hear, as is checking front suspension for collapsed ball joints etc. Did I miss anything? (other than the usual car-buying make-sure-the-doors-open-&-the-lights-flash stuff)
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Jul 23, 2010 21:50
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Cakefool posted:Stupid question, it's a diesel Belt and pump are 70k mile changes. So a car near 70k or 140k or 210k will need a swap soon. Check the upper shock tower mountings for cracking in the rubber..could indicate a need to replace the bushings soon. Check the AC/Heat/Cabin Filter...filter is supposed to be replaced every so often...an original could indicate eventual issues with AC/Heat. Check trans fluid for clarity or when it was last replaced...any suspicions or hard shifting could indicate eventual trans problems. If the car has the 3 disk cd changer, confirm it works..lots of these units have failed. Check tailgate hatch for clearance/locking...raise it a few times to make sure the shocks hold up the gate, if they don't need to be replaced (about $50 DIY). Also the back gate panel tends to rattle from being slammed, metal replacement clips are sold as a kit at IPD.
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Jul 23, 2010 22:24
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Hey Crispulus-here's the K-Jet fault tracing chart from the greenbook. It doesn't exactly narrow things down, but it should give you a few places to start looking. I don't think that the O2 sensor should affect your idle; the car isn't in closed loop at that point.
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Jul 23, 2010 23:48
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Cakefool posted:Stupid question, it's a diesel I thought diesels had no throttle at all, and the injection pump controlled everything.
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Jul 24, 2010 04:38
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Thanks to Lloyd and 82Diaon I believe I solved my problem. I adjusted the 3mm hex screw on the injector plate and now can get about 500-700 RPM at idle. I'm sure the rest of the problem is going to vaccum leaks and cleaning up other loose ends but now my car will idle indefinitely, after having me prime it so to speak and coming rapidly off a really high rev might kill it but... it is a start! By the way, this was after my local mechanic just shrugged his shoulders. Great success! I'm going to award myself with a tattoo today because it is also my birthday. Good omens, eh?
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Jul 24, 2010 14:28
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 oh god I bought itedit: 99 V70 diesel, blue, the only bad bits I found were - terrible condition paintwork - needs a lot of cut'n'polish, drivers electric wingmirror doesn't work, the spare is on so I think that tyre has a slow leak, a few scrapes, the left hood catch needs adjusting, load cover end-catches are knackered. Oh, And to let me know what I'm going to be missing the exhaust fell off my Peugeot on the way back. I'll go pick it up next Saturday & find all the stuff I missed first time round 
cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jul 24, 2010 |
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Jul 24, 2010 16:32
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Crispulus posted:Good omens, eh? Indeed. K-Jet is very sensitive to vacuum leaks, so it's definitely worth your time to go through and make sure that all the hoses are in good shape and are properly connected. At least it's easier on the turbo cars; I never bothered troubleshooting anything in my wagon when it still had the B21F in it because it was so hard to get to anything relating to the injection system with the fuel distributor and such crammed up under the intake.
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Jul 24, 2010 20:11
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