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Is it normal for air (temperature varies depending on what I have the knob sitting at) to blow out *very* softly when I haven't turned on the fan? I've noticed that sometimes I have the air on hot, and it's *very* slightly blowing hot air when I haven't engaged the fan; it's annoying, I can live with it, but just wondering if it was normal.
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Jul 9, 2010 10:45
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Dr. Jackal posted:Mine is a 2010 Golf TDI... I haven't seen anything that screams at me to change gears (and I've gone almost to 5 on the first gear trying to shoot out of a parking lot). It's in the top right corner of the display if it helps. Sounds like it isn't in VW's then sorry.
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Jul 9, 2010 15:55
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obi_ant posted:Is it normal for air (temperature varies depending on what I have the knob sitting at) to blow out *very* softly when I haven't turned on the fan? I've noticed that sometimes I have the air on hot, and it's *very* slightly blowing hot air when I haven't engaged the fan; it's annoying, I can live with it, but just wondering if it was normal. That's been normal on any car I've ever driven. It's air coming in from outside, unassisted by the fan. If you don't like it, you can hit the recirculate button and close off the vents, but it'll get a bit stuffy.
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Jul 9, 2010 16:11
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obi_ant posted:Is it normal for air (temperature varies depending on what I have the knob sitting at) to blow out *very* softly when I haven't turned on the fan? I've noticed that sometimes I have the air on hot, and it's *very* slightly blowing hot air when I haven't engaged the fan; it's annoying, I can live with it, but just wondering if it was normal. Yeah it's normal. Just switch the vents to blow air at your feet or something.
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Jul 9, 2010 16:50
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DropShadow posted:My A4 is at the Audi dealer right now getting a new turbo because of this. The extra money I paid for a certified car just paid for itself. I always recommend CPO coverage for reasons like this. Good decision.
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Jul 10, 2010 02:56
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The crappy thing is that the new turbo didn't solve the problem, so it's going back in on Monday. But hey, free turbo, right?
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Jul 11, 2010 04:18
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DropShadow posted:The crappy thing is that the new turbo didn't solve the problem, so it's going back in on Monday. But hey, free turbo, right? What's the original complaint and what year is your A4?
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Jul 11, 2010 04:54
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(B6 A4 3.0L)For the last couple of days I've had some minor power issues under hard acceleration. I'll basically be accelerating up to 4k rpm(in any gear) and I'll feel the car lightly stutter in what seems like a few sparks being missed. I have no idea if the 55k service was performed on this car or not. I got it at ~57k and it's now at ~63k. I'm going to go ahead and replace the fuel filter and spark plugs(coil packs were replaced under a recall like 3-4 months ago.) gsr, would you say this is a good plan of action? Sorry if this is way vague, but I have no serious symptoms yet and would like to prevent this from becoming a problem.
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Jul 11, 2010 05:07
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RapeWhistle posted:(B6 A4 3.0L)For the last couple of days I've had some minor power issues under hard acceleration. I'll basically be accelerating up to 4k rpm(in any gear) and I'll feel the car lightly stutter in what seems like a few sparks being missed. I'd bet on the plugs being the cause, especially if they weren't changed at the 55k interval. Also make sure the coils are all pressed firmly onto the plugs - there's actually a supplemental service bulletin right now for cars that have misfires due to the recall-replaced coils not being installed correctly. I highly doubt changing your fuel filter will help unless you buy a lot of poor quality fuel - it won't hurt and it's easy to change though.
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Jul 11, 2010 05:29
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my1999gsr posted:What's the original complaint and what year is your A4? 2005.5 (B7) A4 quattro, 6spd, 2.0T: High-pitched whine comes in at 5160rpm. Replaced in the last month: Turbo PCV DV Cam follower Just had the 55k service last week. There's no negative performance related to the noise, but I've got just under a year left on the CPO warranty (7/9/2011), so I want it taken care of before it has a chance to turn into a big issue. Luckily, my Audi dealer has been very helpful (surprisingly) and willing to keep trying to track it down.
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Jul 11, 2010 18:08
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Are the issues(Cam follower, HPFP, DV, AC compressor, anything else?) with the 2.0T FSI overstated? Edmunds.com has 4 or 5 positive reviews to one negative review. I don't put a whole lot of stock in the website since it's pretty subjective and no control over the sample. GolfMKV users seem to be of two minds: (a)Don't waste your money on an 06-07 get a late 08 (b)of course you're only going to see negatives. No one posts a thread about how reliable their car is. Take it all with a grain of salt. VWVortex is more or less the same. I don't really trust other forums so what is the general consensus(reliability wise), if any, about 06-07 MKV GTIs or the engine? vains fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jul 11, 2010 |
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Jul 11, 2010 20:53
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DropShadow posted:2005.5 (B7) A4 quattro, 6spd, 2.0T: High-pitched whine comes in at 5160rpm. I had one 2.0T in an Eos do something like this only at idle and it turned out to be a bad PCV. I see you've already had it replaced so that's not likely. I had a quick look through technical bulletins for your car but there's nothing there for a complaint like yours either. If you have the car out of gear and stationary and rev the engine to 5160 RPM does it still make the noise?
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Jul 11, 2010 21:30
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Veins McGee posted:Are the issues(Cam follower, HPFP, DV, AC compressor, anything else?) with the 2.0T FSI overstated? The problems you have listed aren't overstated - I've seen all of them several times, especially the cam/cam follower, but overall the Golf/Rabbit has easily been the best of the newer VW vehicles in every department. The majority of problems like the cam follower and A/C compressor have shown up well within the warranty period so they've been an inconvenience for owners but the repairs have been done with upgraded parts so they usually don't re-occur. The only real complaint I've had with the newer Golf/Rabbits has been the fuel mileage with the 2.5L engine - it's pretty thirsty but it's also powerful enough to run with the A4-style VR6 engined GTI so it's a trade-off.
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Jul 11, 2010 21:36
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Here is a thread with common problems and fixes for the 2.0T that I found linked from one of the other forums the other day: http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24952 Lot of stuff in there with pictures so it might be useful to someone.
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Jul 12, 2010 00:54
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MALCOLM XTREME posted:We own 3 Audis and have had incessant technical problems with all of them. How reliable are the B5 A4's? Some guy in my area is offering up a manual B5 A4 3.0 quattro with all the options and whatever for 11k, with under 50k miles, and I'm tempted to pull the trigger. Is this thing really going to leach, say, $10k more than owning a Japanese econocar shitbox? I don't know much about the Audis, but I have two B5 Passats. My '98 is a terrible lemon; I've had repeated issues with everything from the drivetrain to the interior. On the other hand, I have a '04 B5.5 Passat with a similar mileage (130k) which has been practically bulletproof - lots of little improvements to the B5 design throughout. This is anecdotal, of course, but it's sort of an extreme example of the general consensus. VAG was making some awful cars in the late 90s and early 00s, but started to get their act together in the mid-00s. So, I guess, my decision on the car would depend on the model year.
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Jul 12, 2010 02:41
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my1999gsr posted:I had one 2.0T in an Eos do something like this only at idle and it turned out to be a bad PCV. I see you've already had it replaced so that's not likely. I had a quick look through technical bulletins for your car but there's nothing there for a complaint like yours either. If you have the car out of gear and stationary and rev the engine to 5160 RPM does it still make the noise? I've never revved it that high while sitting still, but the dealer is the one who came up with the 5160rpm number, so I assume that means that they have and that it persists. It's going back to the dealer tomorrow morning. I'm curious to see how far they go to track it down or if they give up at some point.
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Jul 12, 2010 05:01
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I'm considering retrofitting steering wheel radio controls. It looks like I'm going to have to replace the airbag unit to do this, as the controls are built into it. If I get a unit with steering wheel controls off ebay and swap them out, should I be okay? As in, will the new airbag explode in my face or turn on my airbag light or MIL? 02 A6 btw.
Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Jul 12, 2010 |
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Jul 12, 2010 17:47
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Neon Machete posted:I'm considering retrofitting steering wheel radio controls. It looks like I'm going to have to replace the airbag unit to do this, as the controls are built into it. If I get a unit with steering wheel controls off ebay and swap them out, should I be okay? As in, will the new airbag explode in my face or turn on my airbag light or MIL? 02 A6 btw. We don't do a lot of retro-fitting so keep that in mind. I don't know if this will work. The problem lies in the module coding that allows the wheel controls to function. Since your car didn't come coded for steering wheel controls and you're adding them you might run into trouble there. Also, I'm not sure, but you may have to replace the steering wheel as well because your original wheel may not accept the new bag due to the shape and/or wiring. Will your airbag blow up? That's very difficult to say. The pin arrangements in the original harness and the new bag may not match up correctly which can cause problems. To be sure, I'd want a wiring diagram from an A6 with the steering wheel controls and a diagram of your car and make sure the pinouts in the plugs match. There's an outside chance that this will be a plug and play swap but when you're dealing with airbag and supplemental restraint systems take extra caution - I've seen the damage an airbag can do when it deploys unsafely. A few tips: Disconnect your battery before installing your airbag parts. When they're installed, turn you key on, get out of the car and reconnect the battery. If there's an accidental deployment you'll be far enough away to escape injury. Store airbags with the bag portion facing up - if the bag deploys you won't have the metal plate/ignitor/studs turning your face into pizza.
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Jul 13, 2010 01:52
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my1999gsr posted:We don't do a lot of retro-fitting so keep that in mind. Thanks for the pointers. I'll take a look at the pin arrangements before I go through with it. Do you think I might be able to change the appropriate module coding using something like VAG-com?
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Jul 13, 2010 02:29
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Neon Machete posted:Thanks for the pointers. I'll take a look at the pin arrangements before I go through with it. Do you think I might be able to change the appropriate module coding using something like VAG-com? I have limited experience with VAG-COM but you can do long code adapting with it so you should be fine, you'll just have to dig around a little to find the correct coding to change. Keep in mind, you may not have to change any coding at all but it was around the 02-03 model years that coding started to become more of an issue so it's something you might need to address at some point.
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Jul 13, 2010 02:38
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So we're considering a new car for the fiancee as she has to do a lot of driving for her job. We've pretty much narrowed things down to either a 98-03 Jetta TDI or a 98-03 Golf TDI. I've read over this: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/new-owner-checklist-VW-TDI-mk4.htm And it seems like it's all fairly standard stuff or things that are easy to check. My question is...are there any other particular issues we should look out for? The cars in her price range are ranging from 60k miles to 120k miles. Are there any concerns with the TDIs around those mileages? Also, she drives to and from clients houses, and at times the clients are really close together sometimes (ie, .5 miles). Is this going to cause problems or is there something she could change when she drives the car short distances to help avoid problems? Generally her trips will be 5-10 miles, ranging from 2-12 trips per day. Everyone seems to say that the engines are bulletproof, there's no problems with them, and that the electrics are the weak point. Any other concerns or things to be worried about? Should we shy away from modded cars? I'm plenty experienced with motorcycle mechanic stuff but not cars. Thanks 
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Jul 16, 2010 05:52
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Z3n posted:So we're considering a new car for the fiancee as she has to do a lot of driving for her job. We've pretty much narrowed things down to either a 98-03 Jetta TDI or a 98-03 Golf TDI. Most people like to say the TDI isn't even broken in until 150k. Although with the MK3 the rest of the car will be falling apart long before you have issues with the motor. That being said, with trips that short, you will probably be better off with a gasser.
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Jul 16, 2010 17:19
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So my GF is in the market for a new car. Can I get opinions on a 1992 (Mk1) Cabriolet (Convertible Golf)? Condition is good, price is right, odometer is sitting on 130k, but I want to know if there's anything in particular I should be looking for, the driving experience, etc. I know that 1992 is the Mk2 Golf, but they used the Mk1 platform for the Cabriolets still in 1992.
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Jul 16, 2010 17:30
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-S- posted:So my GF is in the market for a new car. Can I get opinions on a 1992 (Mk1) Cabriolet (Convertible Golf)? Condition is good, price is right, odometer is sitting on 130k, but I want to know if there's anything in particular I should be looking for, the driving experience, etc. It really depends on the upkeep the car has had throughout it's life. Both the Mk1 and 2 chassis have been very reliable because they're so simple so my main concern would be rust in the underbody and in the brake and fuel lines. If you're serious about a cabrio of that age take it to your local VW dealer and let them have a look at it - that's the best insurance you're going to get when you purchase an older vehicle.
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Jul 16, 2010 21:38
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Picked up the clip today, here is is next to the old broken one: So securing the seat is just putting the new clip in the hole and pushing the seat cushion's metal latch into it? Is it going to be secure in there or are there any additional steps? I looked on the estimate again, they wanted to charge me $130 for installation. There's no way they would charge that much for something so easy.
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Jul 16, 2010 22:05
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Autism Sundae posted:Picked up the clip today, here is is next to the old broken one: It's just as easy as you think it is. Lift up the seat bottom but don't remove it entirely - just give yourself enough room get at the holes. Insert the clip squarely into the hole and press down till it clicks into place. Repeat for the other side. Press seat bottom tabs down into the new clips. Laugh at $130 estimate.
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Jul 16, 2010 22:23
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I don't have to do the other side really, it's already secure. There's a hole in the middle too, but there's no metal latch in the seat in the corresponding spot, I'm assuming that's fine? Is the huge estimate standard practice or just a lovely shop?
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Jul 16, 2010 22:31
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Autism Sundae posted:I don't have to do the other side really, it's already secure. There's a hole in the middle too, but there's no metal latch in the seat in the corresponding spot, I'm assuming that's fine? Could be a little of both actually. VW/Audi has been using those style clips for years and years so I'm a little surprised at the estimate they gave you. If you're only doing one side, only lift the seat bottom as far as necessary to get the clip in it's hole so you don't damage the other (good) clip. 5 minutes work, tops. Oh yes, the middle spot will be empty - it's ok.
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Jul 16, 2010 22:35
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2004 Audi A4 1.8t. Coming up on 80k, the water pump is leaking and I heard while I'm down there it would be ridiculous not to get the timing belt done as well. I have had about 3 separate quotes for this service and they range from $700-$1800. Are there any techs that know what price I should be paying for this? That's a BIG range. Also, what's coming up next? My old coworker was an Audi tech and he was like the 1.8t Nostradamus, predicting every single expense I've had thus far almost within ten miles on the odometer, there's got to be much more experience here. Is my turbo going to take a poo poo? Some strange sensor? What's over that next hill guys?
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Jul 16, 2010 22:59
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Nermal. posted:2004 Audi A4 1.8t. Coming up on 80k, the water pump is leaking and I heard while I'm down there it would be ridiculous not to get the timing belt done as well. I have had about 3 separate quotes for this service and they range from $700-$1800. Are there any techs that know what price I should be paying for this? That's a BIG range. When my water pump poo poo itself, the additional labor/parts to do the timing belt was around 300 bucks. When my dad had his 1.8t passat timing belt done it was 1200 bucks and took them a week cause no one at that shop had ever done it before ><
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Jul 17, 2010 00:01
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veedubfreak posted:When my water pump poo poo itself, the additional labor/parts to do the timing belt was around 300 bucks. When my dad had his 1.8t passat timing belt done it was 1200 bucks and took them a week cause no one at that shop had ever done it before >< What kind of VW shop has never done a TB change before? Ha. Regardless of where you go, you are going to be paying a lot. It really isn't as hard as people make it out to be - it was one of the first things I did when I got my A6 and I had no experience with VW engines (I'd only worked on Jeeps which are easy as piss). Would you rather pay a shop $800 plus to do it or pay $250 for a kit and learn a bit about your car and wrenching on it in the process? If you have an Audi but aren't in what I like to call the "Audi Tax Bracket," you will save yourself several thousands in the end if you learn to troubleshoot and repair problems. https://www.audiworld.com and several other Audi websites are immeasurably useful in diagnosing problems.
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Jul 17, 2010 01:36
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This doesn't really deserve a brand new thread so I hope it's welcome here. I have been looking at A5's as a replacement for my current car but, I'm a bit befuddled by prices I'm finding. Audi's website lists the base model starting at $36,000 but, I'm only find used models over $40k? Are these just going for over MSRP now?
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Jul 17, 2010 01:59
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Anyone itt going to waterfest?
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Jul 17, 2010 02:08
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Neon Machete posted:What kind of VW shop has never done a TB change before? Ha. https://www.audizine.com as well
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Jul 17, 2010 04:26
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Nermal. posted:2004 Audi A4 1.8t. Coming up on 80k, the water pump is leaking and I heard while I'm down there it would be ridiculous not to get the timing belt done as well. I have had about 3 separate quotes for this service and they range from $700-$1800. Are there any techs that know what price I should be paying for this? That's a BIG range. The 1.8T t-belt in the A4 is one of my favorite ones to do and takes me about 4 hours +/- an half hour. $700-$800 is reasonable depending on the shop's hourly rate as long as that price includes parts as well but anything higher than that seems a little over-priced to me, not to mention $1800. Since I don't know what repairs you've had done so far it's hard to tell you what the next problem might be. If you've already had the front upper control arms, valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seal, coolant temp sensor, PCV and hoses, and a fuel pump done then most of the common problems your A4 has have been addressed.
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Jul 17, 2010 16:02
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ATLbeer posted:This doesn't really deserve a brand new thread so I hope it's welcome here. The last few A5/S5s we've sold went for about MSRP (we're talking brand new cars here) but it's possible demand in your area is higher than mine so the dealers are squeezing the price a little.
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Jul 17, 2010 16:04
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veedubfreak posted:When my water pump poo poo itself, the additional labor/parts to do the timing belt was around 300 bucks. When my dad had his 1.8t passat timing belt done it was 1200 bucks and took them a week cause no one at that shop had ever done it before >< Most non-VW shops just can't wrap their heads around the idea of removing the front bumper cover and partially removing the whole front end of the car to access the belt and tensioner so they screw around forever trying other methods.
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Jul 17, 2010 16:07
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my1999gsr posted:The last few A5/S5s we've sold went for about MSRP (we're talking brand new cars here) but it's possible demand in your area is higher than mine so the dealers are squeezing the price a little. I guess so. I'm in Atlanta and looking at AutoTrader here's the listings http://bit.ly/b5z1tH Highest Price: $49,900 Lowest Price: $36,994 Average Price: $44,560 Not one vehicle below MSRP... You should be shipping cars to Atlanta. (Ahh... Just noticed most, if not all are the 3.2 models.. Makes a lot more sense now).... ATLbeer fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jul 17, 2010 |
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Jul 17, 2010 17:29
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Any suggestions for how to buy a used Audi TT? I've seen a handful around here go for low/under KBB lately, and thinking one would be a better car then what I'm currently driving (1986 Pontiac Fiero.... yeah, I know). Like the AWD function, so what questions should I be asking? I know the timing belt should be replaced, but other then that, what should I know? Is it 70, 80, or 100k when it needs to be done? Any advice would be appreciated, just paid off my other car so now I can shop. I'm looking at around the 10k price tag.
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Jul 17, 2010 22:55
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60K on the timing belt to be safe. Might as well do the water pump (OEM has a plastic impeller that disintegrates; metal impeller replacements may lock up) and thermostat while you're in there. Coil packs can be spotty, and the instrument clusters can have issues. The AWD uses a Haldex unit, which needs periodic servicing. quattroworld.com has a decent TT forum; I'd check there for people selling and advice from the collective. I still love mine, FWIW.
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Jul 17, 2010 23:39
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