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edmund745 posted:
Modern machining centers have CNC'd heads however there a tons of examples of CNC'd spindles. They don't carry the rigidity of a CNCd head typically and often travel is limited to 6 or so inches but an example of a production counter example is the Hurco KMB-1 I have now. I am not much of a believer in the manual to CNC conversion anyway. Id rather get a purpose built machine and fix it up.
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Jul 13, 2010 17:15
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This may not be the best place for this, but do you guys know a water-resistant way to darken pewter? I ordered a few engraved mugs for my wedding party, but the etching is really light and I want to darken it up. I can paint some acrylic ink in there, but I doubt the effect would last. Here's what I'm talking about : Basically I want the text to look like the "Best Man" part. And of course this is a rush job; the rehearsal dinner is Thursday.
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Jul 14, 2010 03:14
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Hey Slung Blade I would of paid $50 for that letter opener, that's a nice piece of work man. You inspired me to finish my forge, my Insboard is on it's way. Do you think you could recommend me a burner? I made a small 12"x8"x6" forge. RealKyleH I hope you get that bridgeport, and a power feed to go with it man. I got a workout cranking the one at work. If ya do go the cheap route I would suggest. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand-29-inch-x-8-inch-Table/G0705 9in on the Y is pretty close to what you get on a cheap import Bridgeport. I personally have converted a round column mill to cnc. Nema 23 Steppers running a 2 to 1 reduction, and mach 3 for controlling it. We made gun parts for a couple months and paid off the investment the first month. The brass nuts also got pretty worn out by the 3rd month. You are correct tho the purpose built machine will always be better(time is money tho the faster your travels the more money you can make). But if its a hobby and you like designing mounts and investing in ball screws and bearings you can have something pretty nice for 3-4k. To add content here is the last project I finished. I mostly do wine racks/fire pits/ planters / and furniture. My favorite is when people request no paint so the planters will rust 
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Jul 14, 2010 04:43
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I ordered a few engraved mugs for my welding party, but the etching is really light and I want to darken it up. Edit: Sorry, I don't have any good advice for you, just making a joke, don't mind me.
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Jul 14, 2010 11:20
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evilhat posted:To add content here is the last project I finished. I mostly do wine racks/fire pits/ planters / and furniture. My favorite is when people request no paint so the planters will rust
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Jul 14, 2010 11:44
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dv6speed posted:I was rather confused why someone would have custom mugs made for a welding party. It makes sense now. That's what I get for reading the forums in the morning. Now I can't the thought of a wedding party in matching aprons and welding masks out of my head. Instead of exchanging rings we could forge them.
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Jul 14, 2010 12:57
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:This may not be the best place for this, but do you guys know a water-resistant way to darken pewter? I ordered a few engraved mugs for my wedding party, but the etching is really light and I want to darken it up. I can paint some acrylic ink in there, but I doubt the effect would last. Here's what I'm talking about : Take some black paint, thin it down anywhere from 5-10 to 1 with the appropriate thinner, paint over the lettering. Then take a clean cloth and wipe away the paint on the plate before it dries, don't push too hard or you'll push the cloth into the engraving and wipe out that paint too. The engraved bit is "rough" and should hold the paint well, while the plate is pretty smooth and probably won't hold thinned paint at all. Thinned paint is great for flowing into spaces like that. I use it all the time to paint most of my stuff.
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Jul 14, 2010 17:10
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evilhat posted:Hey Slung Blade I would of paid $50 for that letter opener, that's a nice piece of work man. You inspired me to finish my forge, my Insboard is on it's way. Do you think you could recommend me a burner? I made a small 12"x8"x6" forge. Do you want to build your own burners, or buy pre-made ones? I've never made my own, but dv6 has made several. I do have that burners for forges book if you have any specific questions on how to make something. If you want pre-made ones, I've been very happy with my Chile forge. They sell burners separately and pre-made: http://www.chileforge.com/forges_superburner_details.html Some folks that I've done work with have burners from Larry Zoeller, and they swear by them, so I would look into his stuff too. http://www.zoellerforge.com/flare.html That's a pretty big forge though, mine is fairly small and has two burners (which is plenty enough for me). If I were you, I would get at least 3 of the chile burners. Send them an email though, they'll be happy to discuss how much heat you'll need for that volume. You're going to need a huge fuckin propane tank though (100 pound at least), or a bunch of smaller ones and a nice big manifold. That is a nice wine table, awesome work, please post more. Thanks for the compliment too, but I don't think I can justify charging 50 bucks for that opener. If the weather turns nice anytime soon (shed won't be delivered until friday now  ) I'll try to make a couple more of them.
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Jul 14, 2010 17:23
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Slung Blade posted:Thinned paint is great for flowing into spaces like that. I use it all the time to paint most of my stuff. Keep in mind he wants water-safe (e.g., I think the mugs should be able to go through the dishwasher?). I don't think normal paint will handle that very well. I have applied patina using heat and wax, but I don't think that'd be a good idea on a glass piece like that either.
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Jul 14, 2010 18:59
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Just tell them they're not dishwasher safe.
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Jul 14, 2010 22:20
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Some fuckhead broke into my garage. They got a bunch of my mechanic's tools, an angle grinder, some of my buddie's tools, and another buddie's bicycle. I'm estimating losses anywhere from $1500-2000. I got the local police working on it. This is just maddening. Now I have to take everything else they didn't steal and either put it in my basement or take it into work. Not to mention, it's not like I have the cash to replace the poo poo right now.
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Jul 15, 2010 00:22
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dv6speed posted:Some fuckhead broke into my garage. I can sympathise 100%, I had a similar loss last winter (though they seemed primarily interested in my metalworking tools)- still have not replaced everything. I hope your local police are better then mine, who did not even send an officer by for over $3k in stolen goods. I had a big stack of receipts for them and everything.
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Jul 15, 2010 01:11
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An officer came out in about an hour, apologized for being late, and took a good amount of time getting the story from myself, my buddy who was also there, and he talked to the guy who's bicycle got stolen on the telephone. He mentioned he check's stuff like pawn shop new inventory lists, craigslist, etc everyday. Also my buddy's who's tools also got stolen has good friends high up in the local state police so that may be able to light some fires.
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Jul 15, 2010 01:29
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Slung Blade posted:Cool, thanks for the advice guys. I've got an anvil, firepot, and leg vise on the way, as well as my own personal hammer! The hammer head was given to me a few years ago and I then carved a handle and it's been going strong long enough that the wood is practically polished from use. I made a nail for old time's sake when I stopped by the old shop to grab the hammer, and I can't wait to get into some complicated stuff again. Pics promised! dv6speed, condolences on the stolen goods. If I had a 40 I'd pour it out, truly. It's probably pretty devastating, given how personal tools become, but I guess you at least have an excuse to get some more?
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Jul 15, 2010 06:20
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I've been robbed three times. Twice from the garage. I lost a good portion of my tools, and a lawnmower in the process. It sucks. I'm sorry. Here's hoping they get caught. I haven't had any success scouring pawn shops, but they're worth the shop, same for keeping an eye on craigslist.
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Jul 15, 2010 10:08
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dv6 told me about the robbery over aim yesterday, but I want to extend my condolences here as well. That loving blows man  Dongsmith posted:You're doing good work there, but a sunny day is pretty much the worst time to be outside forging. I'm not sure if you're working under a tent or something, but the color of the iron will get washed right out in sunlight, so that a cherry red in shade is black in sun, yellow in shade is a dull orange in sun, etc. It definitely becomes a bigger deal when attempting to do any complicated heat treating, as small variations in color will have a huge impact on the finished work. At my last job, we had a fairly large smithy with two forges, 3 anvils, and 2 smallish windows, as well as a propped-open door, which left us with just enough light to find any poo poo we dropped on the floor, but little enough that even the darkest cherry red was still discernible. Keep at it man, time is knowledge. Also, what's the deal with your forge? It looks pretty slick. I've been thinking about going propane myself (so as to build a shop into the back of my new old pickup truck and go full-nomad). Is that available online, or did you build/repurpose it yourself? I don't have a tent or anything yet, but I do have a "super shed" being built by the local farm supply co-op. 12'x20' on seven 4x4 treated skids, with a wood floor of 2x10s covered with 5/8ths plywood. Working in the front driveway is purely a temporary thing, and yeah, the sun is awful. They claim it will be delivered tomorrow, but I was also told it would be done 3 times previous to this. So we'll see. It's got one window, one man door, and a roll-up door roughly big enough to get a small car through, I'll be putting it on the east side of the house, so it should be totally shaded in the afternoon. Tents don't really last all that well here, at least not the kind that you would find in a hardware store, like those temporary garage deals. It's really windy at times. In fact, two days ago I saw the neighbour's tent was almost blown away completely, their house isn't done yet and they've been parking their lawn mower in the tent temporarily. The forge is a chile brand 'habanero' http://www.chileforge.com/forges_habanero_details.html Not cheap, but it's been great for me. In retrospect, I kinda wish I had gotten the larger one just so I can fit larger curves into it, but when I need to work with those, I can always get the old charcoal forge fired up, it still works fine. I'm thinking I'll have to get a much larger propane chamber forge built someday, or build it myself. Something like a 1x2x2 box so I can get really large forgings (or a bunch of smaller ones) into it. Someday.
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Jul 15, 2010 16:44
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A company accepted my offer for a Bridgeport with a 9x36 table. Its pulley head and made in the 1950s reportedly. Looks to be in pretty ok shape with your occasional chip and oops. It comes with a set of parallels, no name machinist vice, some random bearings and some tools. As soon as my Hurco CNC mill gets put out this will replace it. I will finally have a complete shop.
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Jul 15, 2010 17:27
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RealKyleH posted:A company accepted my offer for a Bridgeport with a 9x36 table. Its pulley head and made in the 1950s reportedly. Looks to be in pretty ok shape with your occasional chip and oops. It comes with a set of parallels, no name machinist vice, some random bearings and some tools. As soon as my Hurco CNC mill gets put out this will replace it. Pulley-heads are nice but you gotta make sure that your fly cutters are the right size or they'll cut like poo poo because there's no fine adjustment on speed. Watch your tool diameters basically. I'm sure there's a tool diameter by spindle speed chart somewhere for both endmills and fly-cutters and all sorts of other poo poo. VVV Spindle speed, not surface speed. With a pulley head you'll have so much power that if you're taking under ~.075" A cut you will never stall if the material is under 50RC. Provided your tool is sharp Samuel L. Hacksaw fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jul 15, 2010 |
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Jul 15, 2010 21:08
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Theres equations for surface speed dependent on material but really what surface speed and chip load you should run depend heavily on the tool itself. Usually when you buy one youll get a chart.
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Jul 15, 2010 21:27
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Can you believe they came back? The only thing I can tell they took this time is my buddies snowboarding helmet and a case of CD's... and this time they left me a present... a dirty syringe sitting on the garage floor. Not only are they stealing my poo poo, they are shooting up in my garage. At least they didn't get any more tools... since they are in my basement now.
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Jul 15, 2010 22:30
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How did they get in again?
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Jul 15, 2010 23:25
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dv6speed posted:Can you believe they came back? The only thing I can tell they took this time is my buddies snowboarding helmet and a case of CD's... and this time they left me a present... a dirty syringe sitting on the garage floor. Not only are they stealing my poo poo, they are shooting up in my garage. Lock your drat garage jesus.
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Jul 16, 2010 00:17
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I suggested this to him though aim: Build a mousetrap, put a toolbox in a shaft of light in the middle of the shop above it, have a 10ft diameter cage waiting to drop as soon as someone grabs the box, and a series of high pressure water hoses. I think it would be an effective tool for dealing with the situation.
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Jul 16, 2010 00:23
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RealKyleH posted:How did they get in again? Random Number posted:Lock your drat garage jesus.
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Jul 16, 2010 00:51
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Sorry for your loss dv6speed, people jacking my tools are my biggest fear. I'm gonna be even more pissed if they got your new portaband! Thank for the complements too. I wouldn't mind building my own burners for the forge. How bout a 3/4" Venturi Burner If I add enough extra insulation to the inside I could get to around 320 square inches. I'm just looking to make some knives to start off. I need to get to welding temperature. I might just splurge on a Single SuperBurner assembly. What do ya think? Nice score RealKyleH I cant wait for pictures and first chips.
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Jul 16, 2010 04:44
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evilhat posted:I wouldn't mind building my own burners for the forge. How bout a 3/4" Venturi Burner If I add enough extra insulation to the inside I could get to around 320 square inches. I'm just looking to make some knives to start off. I need to get to welding temperature. I might just splurge on a Single SuperBurner assembly. What do ya think? Because of the nature of the items you are working on (knives) which are longer and thinner, a multiple burner forge is a much much better idea to promote even heating. Also, one Reil burner by itself is a bit underpowered to heat all but the smallest forges to welding temps. Ron Reil may be one of the worst webmasters on the internet, but he knows his poo poo when it comes to metalworking and building burners. You should take the time, as painful as it may be, to read his entire website.
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Jul 16, 2010 11:20
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dv6speed posted:Ron Reil may be one of the worst webmasters on the internet, but he knows his poo poo when it comes to metalworking and building burners. You should take the time, as painful as it may be, to read his entire website. Hahahahah holy poo poo, you're not kidding. I haven't seen gifs like this since 1996. 
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Jul 16, 2010 17:00
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I have a copy of this book, and it's pretty great. Got it as a gift. If you're looking to build a gas-fired forge, I think it's not a bad $20 spent.
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Jul 16, 2010 18:16
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I have that book too, and I agree, very well written. So hey, all you knife-making guys, what grit sandpaper would you recommend for polishing? McMaster-Carr sells down to 500 grit for my belt sander (4x36) in an aluminium oxide "fine finishing" belt. They also sell some nylon polishing belts or something, but I don't know if I need that or not. I think the belt I used on that letter opener was 200 grit. It came with the sander, so I didn't really check.
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Jul 17, 2010 00:33
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I've made three knives, and I took a knifemaking class at the Crucible. We used power sanding (belt/disk) for rough work after forging and shaping, on annealed soft steel. After hardening (oil quench) and tempering, everything was done by hand: first a file, for final shaping, and then hand-sanding for polishing. I would not suggest power-sanding for a polish for fear of removing too much material, although if you've got a lot of finesse I guess you could manage it. Start with 80 grit, then 120, then 200. If you're happy with a semi-gloss finish (I quite like it) you can stop there, or you can go on down to finer and finer grits for more polish. Ultimately, buff with polishing compound regardless of where you stop with the sandpaper. Edit: Of course, this was for nice carbon steel full-tang knives. For a railroad-spike letter opener, where you maybe don't care as much about getting an exact figure, and a few pits or whatever add character to the 'rough and ready' kind of look, maybe that's all way too much work. In which case I'd finish with 200 or so and not worry about it. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Jul 17, 2010 |
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Jul 17, 2010 00:52
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I want to make actual knives eventually. The spike letter openers are just a convenient and easy way to make something to sell in the art co-op. Also my shed was delivered today, but they put it in the wrong loving spot. I'll get some pictures tomorrow, I was busy fixing the tractor and it was dark as hell by the time I finished.
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Jul 17, 2010 07:50
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My word! I am terribly sorry to hear about your garage getting broken into that's the worst feeling. One time someone broke into our garage and took a few of my air tools. Jerks. I have some good news of my own. I'm getting a house built!! I'm going to have my own garage!!! I'm even getting a 220 put into the garage for you know what. I am really excited. Also I guess I have to check with my builder that the garage be wired with an alarm.
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Jul 19, 2010 07:20
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SmokeyXIII posted:I'm even getting a 220 put into the garage for you know what.
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Jul 19, 2010 11:25
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So, anybody know anything about TOS SN40 lathes? All I know is TOS is a German company, and the SN40 is a gear head lathe about 10 feet long in total length, and there happens to be one sitting in my shop at work right now. (Pics to come.) I've found two PDF files on the series of tubes so far, one is 39 pages of technical drawings, and the other is the operator's manual... in German. No, I don't read German.
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Jul 25, 2010 02:36
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What do you want to know? EDIT: If yours is the same one this has pretty much everything youd need to know to buy poo poo for it http://www.nsmachine.com/12060.html
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Jul 26, 2010 04:31
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RealKyleH posted:What do you want to know?
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Jul 26, 2010 10:33
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My gear head lathe (and probably yours) uses ISO 32 hydraulic fluid, the cheapest (and only) I could find locally was at Northern Tool.
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Jul 26, 2010 13:05
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RealKyleH posted:My gear head lathe (and probably yours) uses ISO 32 hydraulic fluid, the cheapest (and only) I could find locally was at Northern Tool. Autozone carries it, as well as Napa.
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Jul 31, 2010 14:15
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[ASK] me about lifting a 4000lb milling machine without electricity or hydraulics The Hurco is out, the Bridgeport is in. Ill post pics when i start running some endmills through it, I cuttently have almost no tooling though I do have a vise, parallels, a few collets, etc.
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Jul 31, 2010 19:10
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RealKyleH posted:[ASK] me about lifting a 4000lb milling machine without electricity or hydraulics
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Jul 31, 2010 19:30
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