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froglet posted:This may or may not be the right place to ask but, here I go. I've recently been reading about managed funds. While I don't want to start investing immediately, I'm wondering what other goons think about managed funds and if it would be a good medium term investing vehicle. Has anybody had any experience with similar funds? Or should I just forget about it, wait until I have 20,000 just lying around then invest it in something else altogether? What are called Managed Funds in Australia are called Mutual Funds in the US. They can be an excellent investment product, but they are only as good as the underlying investments that they contain. I’m sure there are lots of funds available to you that would be good for a medium term time frame. While this is the long term investment thread and much of the info is specific to the US, they will inevitably touch on a lot of the concepts like risk tolerance, diversification, and fees and costs that you would be paying. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2892928
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Jul 16, 2010 15:52
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Yeah, the retirement thread should be helpful. You can use 1-3 index funds with low expenses to create a very robust portfolio for any investment term. But considering your place in life I'm tempted to say your savings money should go into the superannuation or cash savings for now - you probably don't have cash accumulated beyond your short-term needs. Also make sure you are choosing something good for your superannuation, and put in enough to get the full co-contribution or whatever. Also note that I don't know much about Australia so I'm extrapolating here based on US stuff
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Jul 16, 2010 16:06
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slap me silly posted:Yeah, the retirement thread should be helpful. You can use 1-3 index funds with low expenses to create a very robust portfolio for any investment term. But considering your place in life I'm tempted to say your savings money should go into the superannuation or cash savings for now - you probably don't have cash accumulated beyond your short-term needs. Also make sure you are choosing something good for your superannuation, and put in enough to get the full co-contribution or whatever. Also note that I don't know much about Australia so I'm extrapolating here based on US stuff Yeah, while I can't say I've maxed out the contribution allowed for superannuation (considering that the max seems to be several times more than what I earned this past financial year), I did ensure that I contributed the amount that would get me the max super contribution the government provides to those on low incomes. Oh, and I double checked to make sure my super fund still charges some of the lowest fees in the industry.  My plan for the immediate future is to just continue saving and adding to my superannuation, and I'm only really thinking about it now since I just found out about managed funds today. (Also thanks!)
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Jul 16, 2010 16:33
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My experience has been that stuff like cars and houses soaked up my cash before I needed to start worrying about a better place to park it than a savings account, so I haven't needed any medium or long term non-retirement investment vehicles yet. That kind of depends on individual circumstances though. Good luck!
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Jul 16, 2010 17:04
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Ledneh posted:Thanks for the thoughts. No, dad's worse than useless (being a drunk ex-con Avoid pulling out of retirement funds. The penalties will probably make it more expensive than just paying 6.8%, and even if not if you somehow lose your job you will be totally screwed.
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Jul 16, 2010 20:53
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) so no support from that direction. I'm in Las Vegas, looking for a place preferably in the central-south part of town, in line with the airport. I thought about a studio, then toured one and realized I'd go up the loving wall if I had to live in one--1br1bath at least.
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I would like some advise regarding my credit score. I'm 26, when I was around 18 I decided to urinate all over my credit. Turns out that was a bad idea. I have a credit score of about 610. Although I have zero debt and make roughly $49k a year, it's been extremely difficult to get a credit card or a loan for even $500 just to give me score a boost. By difficuly I mean impossible. Can anyone give me some tips or point me to some good literature for improving credit? Everywhere I look I just read "Eliminate your debt and pay your bills on time." Well I have no debt. I literally have zero debt. I'm anal about paying all my bills on time (now). When I poo poo on my credit 8 years ago it seems to refuse to raise.
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Jul 17, 2010 10:02
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Have you checked out your credit report to see if there is anything on there that might still be hurting you (it might just take some time for the poo poo you did to fall off your report)? Apart from that, a secured credit card is usually easy to get from your bank, and will help you to reestablish credit.
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Jul 17, 2010 12:33
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About how long does it take for a credit card to arrive after I've been approved? Google mentioned around 10 business days, but other people have mentioned 3-5 days. I applied and was approved for a Chase Freedom credit card, and I received an approval e-mail/notification on July 2nd (Friday). I still don't have the card itself yet, but I do have a packet of balance transfer checks that arrived before the card has. It's been about 10 business days (give or take a day because of the 4th of july) since I got that e-mail. Should I be concerned? I mean, I do plan to call card services tomorrow but I'm curious as what other people's experiences have been.
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Jul 18, 2010 04:30
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What's a good rule of thumb for balance transfers? I've got a card with ~$3000 at 18% interest. I'm tempted to try to get another card with a lower interest rate (for obvious reasons) and then transfer the balance off my current card. The balance should be paid off in six months either way.
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Jul 18, 2010 19:51
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It's easy enough to calculate it out and compare instead of trying to guess. There are online calculators galore. For such a small balance and short time, it probably won't make much difference. Edit: In case you don't know what the hell I'm talking about. This calculator is handy for this question: http://partners.leadfusion.com/tools/motleyfool/card03/tool.fcs   I entered $90 under "Introductory annual fee" to account for a 3% balance transfer fee. I assumed you could get a 10% interest rate. If you pay $500/mo it's not worth it. slap me silly fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Jul 18, 2010 |
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Jul 18, 2010 20:39
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slap me silly posted:It's easy enough to calculate it out and compare instead of trying to guess. There are online calculators galore. For such a small balance and short time, it probably won't make much difference. Thanks for the edit, because I didn't know what you were referring to. I forgot about transfer fees, that would have killed it right there.
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Jul 18, 2010 23:57
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Hello BFC. I appreciate all the info i have gleaned from lurking over the years, but now I have a small (certainly not thread-worthy) question. I had an ER visit in December, and gave out the wrong address for billing (why an effectively unconscious person is being grilled for info like that, I have no idea). I tracked down everyone I could find who I owed money to, ER, ambulance, doctor, etc, but I missed one - blood work that I had no idea I had gotten. It's $40, and I would have been happy to pay it had I known. The blood work folks didn't find me, but the collections agency they send the account to had no trouble. They want me to pay in full (which seems lovely because I've already screwed the people I owed money to) and claim if I do, they can totally remove the item from my credit report, my primary concern. If I pay them, can they remove it? They wrote a brief note they mailed my corrected address, but it's on the return envelope. Once I put a check in and mail it, I lose my only proof they promised me that. It's not really a clear promise either, its just scrawled on there. The whole thing seems fishy.
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Jul 20, 2010 01:53
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GET. EVERYTHING. IN. WRITING. Don't talk to them on the phone ever again. Send everything certified mail. Google and/or check other threads for "Pay for Delete".
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Jul 20, 2010 01:55
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I applied for the Chase Amazon card last year and was rejected because I had no credit history (I had never had a credit card or any other non-student-loan debt). I went and got a Slate card directly from Chase in October to build up a history, and have used it to pay for gas ever since. I'm now thinking of getting a second card to use for discretionary spending. Is it too soon to apply for the Amazon card again? Should I look at something else instead? I'm willing to wait until October if need be, to have a full year of history behind me. Also, I don't much care about my score I guess as I rarely use credit, but will applying for a new card hurt it by lowering the average age of my accounts, as I've heard? In case it matters I've always paid the card I have in full each month and would do the same with the new one, I just want an alternative to using my debit card that can earn me these fancy "rewards" I have heard tell of.
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Jul 23, 2010 18:03
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Why do you care about your credit score? Are you planning on buying a car or house in the next year that would require a great credit score? If the answer is no, then don't make decisions about whether or not to apply for cards based on a short term credit hit. Apply again, the worst they can say is no. I like my Aamzon rewards card.
moana fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Jul 24, 2010 |
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Jul 24, 2010 15:30
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I was just asking whether they were likely to accept my application this time. I don't care about my score at all, I only asked about that out of curiosity. I suppose I'll just apply again and see what happens. Thanks! edit: In case anyone cares to know the outcome, I was able to get the Amazon card. Medenmath fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 24, 2010 22:39
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It's kind of up in the air since companies have really tightened credit restrictions in the past couple of years. If you don't qualify for a rewards card, just get s normal credit card, keep asking for credit limit increases every 6 months or so, and soon your score will be high enough to get a rewards card.
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Jul 24, 2010 23:17
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Can some one recommend software to analyze personal finances? Something I can import data into from my bank, etc. I tried Mint.com for a few days, but it makes me a bit nervous giving them all my bank and credit card info/credential, especially when they are using that info to try and sell me things. edit: ps I have a mac, lol.
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Jul 25, 2010 18:06
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Associate Christ
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Someone let me know if this is to complex and deserves its own thread, but I doubt it. A little under 4 years ago (Aug 2006) I bought a laptop from Dell. It was $1500, and I got a 12 months no interest offer. I was moving in three weeks, and the Dell rep said the laptop would take a month, and the first bill a week, so I had the send the bill to the current address, and the laptop to the future address. Movein time comes, and still no bill. But the laptop is waiting for me at the new place. I figured the bill would show up eventually or something I guess. I also at some point started thinking that it was 12 months no interest/no payments. Come May of 2007, and I get a notice from a collection agency (I think it was from an agency, not Dell). I give them a call, and I'm pretty sure I talked to Dell at this point. The (American) women I talked to said they had no addresses on file for me. I gave her my address, did a ~$260 payment (the minimum) over the phone, and she said she'd look into it (or at least I think, I don't remember what I thought was going to happen at this point). Then I made a few payments, culminating in a $700 payment that brought the total amount I'd paid them equal to the amount originally owed on the laptop. I also wrote a letter explaining everything and enclosed it with the payment (I could probably find a copy of the letter if I looked hard enough). They wrote back and said "we don't care." At this point I entered into a cat and mouse game where I would only pay the bill every other month, and people from India would call me and refuse to do anything until I paid. Once I figured out how to setup automatic payments (Dell Financial's website is awful) I did so, and I've been sending them $30 a month for a year or two now. Ideally I'd like this debt cancelled. Right now my balance is still $700. I'd be quite content to just call it even, but getting the hundreds of dollars I've given them after the initial $1500 would be nice also. I set up the automatic payments to build some goodwill with them I guess, but I'm not really sure where to go from here. Can I call DFS and just keep escalating the call until I get to someone that knows what's going on? Have I just waited too drat long, and now I'm stuck paying it off? At the very least I want the 9 months of no payment off my credit history, because I'm sure it's not helping. tl;dr gently caress Dell help me fix it? Also, is there a goon recommended way to check my credit score? I know I can get it once a year for free, how do I do that? What's the cheapest option if I want it more often? Could info on checking credit scores be put in the OP?
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Jul 26, 2010 06:22
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I checked my credit report for the first time a little over a month ago and everything was great except for a collection listed for $600 from an oral surgeon that was paid in full back in 2006. I had my wisdom teeth out when I was 17 and apparently my family never finished paying it off before I turned 18. After ringing the oral surgeon, they said that the debt became mine when I turned 18. I vaguely remember getting some strange letter from a collection agency when I was 18, but I just gave it to my grandmother who promised to figure it out. Truthfully, I was 18 and had no idea what the hell it meant. I know I was the one who had the surgery, but can they really transfer the debt/collection to me like that? I was a minor at the time and wouldn't have been able to agree to any such payment terms. Thankfully the collection agency was very understanding and said since it was paid in full 4 years ago, they didn't really care if it was on my report or not. The item has since been erased from my report, but I'm just curious about the legalities of this. FISHMANPET posted:Also, is there a goon recommended way to check my credit score? I know I can get it once a year for free, how do I do that? What's the cheapest option if I want it more often? Could info on checking credit scores be put in the OP? You can't check your credit score for free, but you can get 3 copies of your credit report for free through Equifax, Experian or TransUnion. It's typically around $7-$8 to get a copy of the score. This can all be done online. Some people recommend spreading the 3 reports out and using one of the agencies every 4 months. Whatever you do, stick to those 3 websites and don't be scammed by something like freecreditreport.com.
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Jul 26, 2010 11:14
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Kaluza-Klein posted:Can some one recommend software to analyze personal finances? Something I can import data into from my bank, etc. There are dozens of sites out there that offer programs like that. It depends what you're looking for. Do you want to just have your spending analyzed? Do you want a budget too? Do you want to download the program or do you want web-based? Pillowpants fucked around with this message at 11:29 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 26, 2010 11:25
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Pillowpants posted:There are dozens of sites out there that offer programs like that. I would like to be able to import account data and then have each transaction assigned to a category so I can have a nice pie chart of my monthly spending by category. I've setup iBank 4 FREE BETA since yesterday. It seems to do this, but assigning categories is completely manual, as far as I can tell. Better than nothing, and still a whole lot faster than doing things completely by hand. I would hope there are better options. I am not morally opposed to online services, I am just a bit weary about giving them my banking credentials. If there is a perfect online service I may try it.
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Jul 26, 2010 13:43
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FISHMANPET posted:Bunch of irresponsibility with Dell "I figured the bill would show up eventually or something I guess." Really? When it didn't show up you didn't think it would be worth investigating? Did you ever check your paper, or online account "Ideally I'd like this debt [sic] cancelled. Right now my balance is still $700. I'd be quite content to just call it even, but getting the hundreds of dollars I've given them after the initial $1500 would be nice also." When you signed up for the financing usually it says 0% for 12 months and some percent afterward (which usually is applied retroactively to the unpaid balance). When you didn't pay it off in time you started paying interest on this purchase. Because you've dragged this out so long you now owe far more than the original amount. So what is your interest rate on this loan? Do you have any cash to pay it off?
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Jul 27, 2010 02:54
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alreadybeen posted:"I figured the bill would show up eventually or something I guess." I'm well aware I've hosed this up, I'm just wondering if I have any recourse beyond just paying it off and never dealing with Dell Financial again.
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Jul 27, 2010 04:31
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm well aware I've hosed this up, I'm just wondering if I have any recourse beyond just paying it off and never dealing with Dell Financial again. Recourse generally implies you were wronged.
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Jul 28, 2010 17:15
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm well aware I've hosed this up, I'm just wondering if I have any recourse beyond just paying it off and never dealing with Dell Financial again. Those offers usually have a super high interest rate. You should probably pay off as much of it as you can as fast as you can, so you don't end up paying $3000+ for a $1500 laptop (though you may already be at that point)
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Jul 28, 2010 17:30
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm well aware I've hosed this up, I'm just wondering if I have any recourse beyond just paying it off and never dealing with Dell Financial again. No, you have no recourse. Sack up, pay them (at faster than $30/mo, if you possibly can, since they're probably charging you like 25% interest), and then if you're embarrassed of being a giant fuckup who can't keep track of his obligations, never deal with them again. It's not Dell's fault you didn't pay your bill. As a general rule, if you have a debt and they don't send you a bill, you need to call them and say "Hey, fuckers, where's my goddamned bill because I got a wad of cash I wanna give you!" Bonus points if you say exactly that.
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Jul 28, 2010 18:20
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Quick question: I have a car that I currently owe about 9.7k on at 8.9% interest. The minimum payments are about 220 bucks a month, but I usually pay about 350. I have no other credit cards or anything else. I would like to buy a house in a couple years, and I was just wondering if I should save that extra money that I'm paying extra on the car, or should I sock it away for a bigger down payment?
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Jul 29, 2010 00:39
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Themagicmoogle posted:Quick question: I have a car that I currently owe about 9.7k on at 8.9% interest. The minimum payments are about 220 bucks a month, but I usually pay about 350. I have no other credit cards or anything else. I would like to buy a house in a couple years, and I was just wondering if I should save that extra money that I'm paying extra on the car, or should I sock it away for a bigger down payment? 9% interest is fairly high, I'd keep doing what you're doing.
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Jul 29, 2010 01:56
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Themagicmoogle posted:Quick question: I have a car that I currently owe about 9.7k on at 8.9% interest. The minimum payments are about 220 bucks a month, but I usually pay about 350. I have no other credit cards or anything else. I would like to buy a house in a couple years, and I was just wondering if I should save that extra money that I'm paying extra on the car, or should I sock it away for a bigger down payment? I would strive to pay it off entirely if you could by then. (or at least mostly off; they often don't count it against you if you have a term loan that you owe fewer than 6 to 10 payments on) One thing lenders look at is your debt to income ratio. They care less about the total amount you owe and more about your monthly cash flow. By not having a payment of $220/mo will help you. Like Grump said, that is a fairly high rate. I've seen worse, but 8.9% on a car loan would indicate either minimal credit when you got it (which is OK, because you have more now) or rough credit, not horrible, but somewhat marginal. Or being way upside down when you got the car. Were any of these factors in play when you got the loan?
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Jul 29, 2010 04:31
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it's kind of a long story. As soon as I turned 18, my abusive mom told jobless me I had to get a couple credit cards and start putting utility bills in my name or she'd kick me out of the house. Long story short, 6k in the hole and she didn't give me a dime to pay any of it back, and it went to collections. Fast forward a few years later, I got a retardedly overpaying job (25 bucks an hour for someone who only has their GED) and have it all payed off (last payment next month to be exact), but my car broke down and like an idiot I went and bought a new one. Best they could give me was 17% interest for a 13k car. (I know I could have done something smarter, but I was stupid then) Unfortunatly as it turns out, banks that finance car loans will give you a much better rate if you have good credit history (dur) and at least a year of good car payments. 11 months after I bought that new car, I parked it in front of a resturant and drunk guy in a truck pushed it into the resturant. My insurance paid for it, but once again I went out and bought another one with a 15% interest. I overpaid the minimum payments knowing that I could re-finance it in 6 months, and as soon as the 6 month mark came around, I re-financed it and got 8.9.% I can re-finance every 6 months as long as I have been good on the payments, and I was hoping to get 4 or 5 when I do it again in december. Bonus pic: My poor old car after I backed it out of the resturant.
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Jul 29, 2010 08:59
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Themagicmoogle posted:it's kind of a long story. As soon as I turned 18, my abusive mom told jobless me I had to get a couple credit cards and start putting utility bills in my name or she'd kick me out of the house. Sorry to hear all that, and looks like you are digging out of the mess and bad luck. You can’t control your crazy mother did and when you are 18, technically you are an adult with equal standing before the law, but your mother still has power over you. Probably the only thing that you could have done better was if the best rate you could get was 17%, you shouldn’t have gotten a $13,000 car. One that was $5,000 would have gotten you from point A to B just as well. That said, you were young and the money handling skills you got from your mother were probably worse than zero, and people with far more stable backgrounds have done far stupider things, so I’m going to whip you with a wet noodle.
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Jul 29, 2010 17:00
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I am looking for some advice. I'm heading to the bank tomorrow morning to determine exactly the bank's stance. Backstory: I have (or had) a joint checking account with my mom. It was started when I was ~16 and I don't believe that she was ever taken off the account. Recently, she has begun the process of foreclosure and/or bankruptcy. She has a condo with a second mortgage and has taken a significant salary cut to keep working the job she is current at. She has talked to an attorney in regards to this matter and we may contact him soon. Currently: I received my direct deposit from my own pay check today and checked the account to confirm it matched my payroll receipt (it did.) I got home and spoke with some new tenants that are going to rent out a guest house from me (I purchased a home in may with a detached rental unit.) They gave me the first month's rent ($500 cash) and I took it to the bank to deposit through the ATM. Later today I checked my balance to confirm verification of funds, which it had, but noticed a transfer from my account to my mother's second mortgage account she has through the same bank (for ~$480). This was not something she or I did, it was simply done through the bank. Is there anything I should be prepared to say/do when I go down to the bank and challenge their transfer?
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Jul 31, 2010 03:29
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UFO posted:Is there anything I should be prepared to say/do when I go down to the bank and challenge their transfer? Read the terms and conditions of the accounts (mortgage and savings/chequing), and see what it says there in regards to unauthorised transactions/automatic payments when you don't pay the mortgage on time. It could be that when your mum took out the mortgage, that account was listed as the one where the mortgage would be automatically debited. Also, get your mum's name off that account immediately - it sounds like if she were to default on her accounts and a judgement was sought against her that account would be one of the first to be emptied. Tell your mum that you need to get her name off that account right now. IANAL, though, this is just what I'd do if I were in your situation. froglet fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Aug 6, 2010 |
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Jul 31, 2010 04:08
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Thank you for the advice Froglet. We were unable to recoup the debit, but my mom was able to pay me back and chalked it up to being 'her last mortgage payment.' Take this as a warning to anyone going through foreclosure and/or bankruptcy. Please make sure you remove your name from your child's joint account. Note, while we were there, the clerk at the bank called a mortgage processor of some kind, to ask about removing my mother from the joint account despite the flag on my account. The clerk was told no, as my mother was 3 days behind on the July mortgage payment (apparently the one they took from my account was for June's payment), and the clerk processed the removal anyway. We leave the bank, and I use the ATM for a balance inquiry. We find that while I haven't YET been debited again, that mortgage processor put a hold on my account for the July payment. That is ridiculous. They bill me $480 on the 30th for a mortgage I'm not on, then again on the 31st the hold another $480. The clerk was again able to take care of it going as far to say she abhorred the practice, but crazy none the less.
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Aug 1, 2010 14:15
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Sorry if most of this has been asked before, I tried to read through the thread but found most of the questions were for people with different problems. Right now I'm 25, earn enough to save and still life in moderate luxury and I've always been pretty good at saving on a monthly basis and really bad at making that money last long term. I have 5k debt to student loans which I plan to pay off in one lump sum later this year (I have an interest free hiatus right now since I moved country last year) because it's the only time I've owed anyone money in my life and I hate it (no credit cards, no overdraft, no other debt period.) My problem is I generally blow my savings after a while because they're just sitting there doing nothing. But a few people in my family were made redundant this year and generally I've heard some horror stories about being 60 and broke and it's scared the poo poo out of me. So my question is: for someone who can live comfortably, support a partner and still save 50% of his wage each month... what is the most obvious thing I can do to start making my money work for me? I have started to read the thread about long term investing and have purchased some of the recommended reading from Amazon, but is there anything even more obvious? I hear about pensions and stuff, but I've been scared off from that by horror stories of ten years of savings being lost in private pension funds. Any advice is appreciated, even if its just a link to a book or another thread or article. I can't seem to find the "20 to 30 year plan to get rich by living below your means and saving wisely" for all the I CAN MAKE YOU RICH IN SEVEN DAYS poo poo online and everyone I know in real life just tells me to buy property as they sit there in negative equity. Edit - should mention, I'm British but now living in Germany. Div fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Aug 1, 2010 |
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Aug 1, 2010 18:11
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Anyone who uses ING Direct: How long does it take for your Direct Deposit payments to process? I was theoretically paid on Friday and still don't see any money as of this morning (Monday). I'm not sure if I messed something up the numbers I gave my employer, or if ING just takes a while. Edit: Nevermind, I hosed up the direct deposit (used my member account number instead of my checking account number). ING said the payment was denied and is being returned to my employer, taking a couple of days 
polyfractal fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Aug 2, 2010 |
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Aug 2, 2010 12:19
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Div posted:Sorry if most of this has been asked before, I tried to read through the thread but found most of the questions were for people with different problems. I would recommend the book "Smart Couples Finish Rich". It's very accessible and gives some clear steps on how you can secure your future savings. If you have trouble with spending your savings, "locking" it away in retirement accounts is always a good idea. I don't know the British equivalent, but in the US money you put into a retirement account is certainly more difficult to withdraw from than a standard bank account. polyfractal posted:Anyone who uses ING Direct: How long does it take for your Direct Deposit payments to process? I was theoretically paid on Friday and still don't see any money as of this morning (Monday). I'm not sure if I messed something up the numbers I gave my employer, or if ING just takes a while. Glad to hear you got it figured out. For future reference, I've never seen a direct deposit from an employer not arrive in the bank account on payday. But maybe I've just been lucky.
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Aug 3, 2010 16:24
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Strict 9 posted:I would recommend the book "Smart Couples Finish Rich". It's very accessible and gives some clear steps on how you can secure your future savings. I just got done reading "The Automatic Millionaire", would recommend this book? Is there much in there that's different from what I just read?
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Aug 3, 2010 18:10
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BorderPatrol posted:I just got done reading "The Automatic Millionaire", would recommend this book? Is there much in there that's different from what I just read? No, I've read both and they're both good but they overlap each other quite a bit. Might be worth borrowing it from the library and skimming through it, but that's probably it.
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Aug 3, 2010 19:16
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