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OpiaTool posted:Right underneath that shroud is where the two drive belts run. One is for the AC compressor and the other is for the alternator and power steering pump. Would that affect the headlight being out?
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Jul 14, 2010 05:21
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A single headlight being out is a little weird, but not unexpected (I'd expect them both to be dim or out completely). If your alternator isn't charging the battery eventually stuff is going to drop out because there won't be enough power to run it. If you're going to have to take your car to the store to buy belts (and assuming it starts), turn off all the electronics you can (no radio/headlights/fan blower) because you're driving on borrowed time. Once your battery is dead you'll be stranded until you can replace those belts and get it recharged. You'd be better off taking a different car if you can or getting a ride from someone.
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Jul 14, 2010 11:38
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Something seems... wrong? I got the belts and looked to put them on, but things didn't seem to line up. The crank pulley seems like it's sticking out an extra 1/2" or so. Or does the belt just go where all that wear is?
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Jul 14, 2010 16:38
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Looks like the harmonic balancer in your stock pulley has failed. Time to get a new pulley. Might I suggest a lightened crank pulley from one of the various tuners out there? I have a power agency one on my wrx and it works great. Got it off a guy on craigslist brand new for $100. Also, DO NOT PUT NEW BELTS ON THAT PULLEY. Honestly I wouldn't even run it with the pulley in that bad of shape. The last thing you want is that pulley to come flying off and damage/break your radiator fans. Get yourself a new pulley a shallow 22mm socket, breaker bar, cheater bar (if you need it), and a torque wrench. Took me about 20 minutes to swap out the crank pulley having never done it before. Put the car in 5th and get someone to stand on the brakes for you while you break the crank bolt loose. Tighten back to 92 ft.lbs and check that you get ~45degrees of tightening once you get it pretty tight then torque it down. Use that handy gauge right above the crank pulley to tell. Also inspect the bolt make sure it looks OK before you put it on. If it's damaged you'll want to replace it. I doubt it will be though. Have fun!
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Jul 14, 2010 17:30
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Going to go check out a few used Forester XTs for the parents this weekend. Have my eyes on two specifically. 2005 Forester XT - 140k miles - $8k (1 owner) 2004 Forester XT - 110k miles - $9.5k I figure its a crapshoot between the two. No major differences between the '04 and '05 models as I recall. Any thoughts?
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Jul 14, 2010 18:04
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Thanks for all your help! The grooved circumference bit separated from the center bit. I think I'll take it in since I do need the scheduled maintenance. I've been mostly broke since I bought it at 25k. I guess I never thought to take it in since it had been so reliable. I put 25k on it since 7/13/09, so it deserve some attention. Plus it's 96deg and I'll be damned if I fight this and yard-work. You guys and TCC are the best.
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Jul 14, 2010 18:36
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I've been looking at a few 1999-2000 Foresters and am wondering what the price point should be for a 1999 Forester S with about 125,000 miles? It's in great shape and has had all of it's servicing done on time (and no other major issues). Most of the cars I've seen have been between $4,000-$5,000, all of them with varying mileage (some have over 200,000 miles!). Thanks guys. Hopefully I'll have my own kick rear end Subaru soon.
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Jul 14, 2010 22:55
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Whelp, having my first issue today. My wrx is only making mechanical boost (7psi) in checking the data on my accessport it looks as though the wastegate duty is staying at 0% meaning that the wastegate isn't trying to stay closed at all. Could it be my solenoid valve has gone bad? Actuator? This has happened a hand full of times before but turning the car on and off has fixed it otherwise. Any ideas? edit: Took a shot in the dark and reset the ecu. Back to normal boost levels and wastegate duty percentages. Color me confused but pleased that I don't have to replace anything. Amandyke fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jul 15, 2010 |
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Jul 15, 2010 01:23
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Cat Terrist posted:10% of Subaru owners in Australia are morons. The diesel is useless as tits on a bull.
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Jul 15, 2010 13:58
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Jared592 posted:Can you elaborate? I'm genuinely curious about how the Subaru diesel is. Ever had an intercooler hose blow off a turbo vehicle? Remember how horrible slow and undriveable it was? Subaru captured this feeling for it's all new diesel engine. 
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Jul 15, 2010 14:01
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A guy wants at least 13.5 for an 05 WRX with 64k mi. Light mods done(intake exhaust), some cosmetic(STI gauges, pioneer nav head unit, amp/sub, ipod hookup), also comes with 2 sets of wheels/tires. The paint is less than perfect, some scratches and swirls, an accident about 30k mi ago involving the front left, rattle from 1500-2500(assuming a heatshield is loose), and the bumper is a little bit popped out on the left side(broken fasteners?). Should I top the offer of 13.5 or hold out?
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Jul 15, 2010 20:16
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Veins McGee posted:A guy wants at least 13.5 for an 05 WRX with 64k mi. Light mods done(intake exhaust), some cosmetic(STI gauges, pioneer nav head unit, amp/sub, ipod hookup), also comes with 2 sets of wheels/tires. The paint is less than perfect, some scratches and swirls, an accident about 30k mi ago involving the front left, rattle from 1500-2500(assuming a heatshield is loose), and the bumper is a little bit popped out on the left side(broken fasteners?). I would skip it. Try to find an 06
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Jul 15, 2010 21:09
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jamal posted:I would skip it. Try to find an 06 I sprung for a more used 06 instead of a nicer quality 04/05 and don't regret it. My transmission exploded like 3 months after I bought it but it was under warranty.  Yea I need to repaint my hood and front bumper(mountains+subaru paint) but that can wait because the extra torque from the 2.5 is awesome. The only thing I regret was buying it in black. Its a great platform to start mods with.
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Jul 16, 2010 00:28
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jamal posted:I would skip it. Try to find an 06 Slowly starting to lean towards ponying up the extra 8 grand to buy a used STI. One of two things would happen with my luck: 1) All 4 wheels fall off and the car explodes and catches on fire because only hopes and dreams were keeping it together or 2) I crash/get tboned within a week of owning it.
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Jul 16, 2010 00:30
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I have to dump a ton of money ~$2500 (after labor and tax) into my girl's car. 05 Impreza Outback Sport w/ 75k miles. 60k mile servicing, leaking head gasket replaced, leaking water pump replaced, coolant replaced, 4 new tires (the second set in 5 years), new timing belt and tensioner, power steering flush, new break pads, fuel valve recall (yay that was free!). Jesus, my 2000 Focus only had $1000 into the front suspension and a set of tires for 10 years of driving (<40k miles). How the hell did this happen in 5? All of the individual cost estimates seemed ok until this kick in the pants: 160 loving dollars for a set of 4 spark plugs? Does this sound right? Service desk said only Subaru makes them and aftermarkets won't fit and will damage the engine and if I got them elsewhere, they'd just order them from Subaru anyway. I guess we should have spent the extra money to get it serviced at the dealership instead of relying on the mom and pop's lube places. ForkPat fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Jul 16, 2010 |
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Jul 16, 2010 01:09
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PorkFat posted:All of the individual cost estimates seemed ok until this kick in the pants: 160 loving dollars for a set of 4 spark plugs? Does this sound right? Service desk said only Subaru makes them and aftermarkets won't fit and will damage the engine and if I got them elsewhere, they'd just order them from Subaru anyway. lies. you can just go to autozone and get ngk coppers. as for the rest, that sucks. hopefully they put in metal sti gaskets which won't ever leak. For some reason they STILL put single layer coated gaskets in the n/a 2.5s. Veins McGee posted:I've got a line on an 06 WRX w/ 39k for $15.5(with some extras that I dont care about like an STI trunk lid) but it's in Delaware and gently caress baybridge weekend traffic. if you want to spend the extra on an sti, get an 05 or later. The nice thing about them is that they're very durable (except for the pistons on recent years), and unless the car was heavily modded and abused shouldn't be too much trouble. Hell, my friend's sti used to be a track car with a 35r, and then he put it back to stock and sold it. The owner comes in for service and the car is still in good shape (although now it has a bunch of lovely ricer mods). jamal fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Jul 16, 2010 |
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Jul 16, 2010 04:22
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jamal posted:lies. you can just go to autozone and get ngk coppers. poo poo. I'll call them first thing in the morning but I bet they've already swapped the head gasket. How much is an STI gasket? It's a pair, right? I've seen aftermarket ones for about $45 each.
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Jul 16, 2010 05:15
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Sti gaskets are $30-40 each depending on how much of a discount you get. Part number is 11044AA610
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Jul 16, 2010 05:19
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jamal posted:Sti gaskets are $30-40 each depending on how much of a discount you get. Part number is 11044AA610 Do the same P/Ns or similar upgrades apply to 05+ Legacy's? I'm curious about reliability mods (throwout bearing -- head gasket -- ECU tune) and simple performance upgrades (intake, intercooler, up-pipe, turbo-back) and wondering if I can get my wagon to a reliable 330 hp for less than $2k? Basically, I sold my wife on an LGT wagon by telling her that it will carry her bike AND outperform an E46 M3 for about the same price.
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Jul 16, 2010 07:05
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that part number will be the right MLS gasket for nearly any phase 2 (99+) 2.5. A turbo legacy already has these gaskets. It's just the non-turbo cars that got lovely headgaskets. The 07 and 08+ sti both have different coolant passages in the head and use different gaskets. The phase 1 gasket has already been superseded to an mls gasket and is thicker. in other news I have a bunch of neat pictures of a 6-speed apart and was going to explain how it works or something. Until I get around to that here's a comparison of 5-speed and 6-speed gears:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Jul 16, 2010 |
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Jul 16, 2010 07:55
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Is the 6-speed transmission physically much wider in order to accommodate those larger gears? I thought the STI and WRX transmissions were basically the same, packaging wise, but it would explain why there are different mounts for STI and WRX transmissions.
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Jul 16, 2010 14:38
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Is the 6-speed transmission physically much wider in order to accommodate those larger gears? I thought the STI and WRX transmissions were basically the same, packaging wise, but it would explain why there are different mounts for STI and WRX transmissions. 8ender explained that the automatics and 6speed are about the same size - huge by comparison of the 5speed.
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Jul 16, 2010 15:18
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Speaking of the automatic, Sock if you can get a TCU from a 2003 I'd recommend it. The 02's have a bug in the TCU software that can sometimes make the AWD system do something strange. If you spin the tires fast enough in something like snow the TCU will sometimes go full lock 50/50 all at once instead of gradually. This is all sorts of fun sometimes because the car will scurry off like a looney tunes character but after a while I was getting sick of it. Either a firmware update or new TCU will fix the problem.
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Jul 16, 2010 15:52
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gently caress, just my luck. Apparently I have an extended warranty on mechanical parts that I never knew about. I know I didn't purchase it with the car and I don't remember doing it later. The warranty covers the gasket so they need to install the stock single layer one. My costs were accrued by 4 new tires ($600), Spark plugs ($160), timing belt and tensioner ($300) and 60k mile service ($780 w/ cabin filter r/r) and brake pads.
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Jul 16, 2010 15:54
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Anyone know the story behind this logo?
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Jul 16, 2010 19:02
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Engine is none too happy right now on my 03 wrx. AP is reporting that my Dynamic Advance Multiplier is at 1.0. I had put some seafoam into the gastank (after I had filled up) and seems like the car started knocking a bit when it got to about 1/4 tank with the seafoam in it. I'm thinking it might just be the seafoam degrading the octane rating of my fuel. So I filled it up yesterday and put some octane booster into the tank this morning. This seem like a likely cause? I'm going to be changing my spark plugs either tonight or tomorrow as I have no idea when they had last been changed (bought the car from my dad who bought it at 60k miles and he didn't remember ever changing the plugs, it's got 96k on it now). edit: Went and got AccessRACE from cobb so I could look at my ECU's tables etc. Here's the current knock table. I have no idea what it's really saying aside from at a few load's and RPM's it wasn't very pleased:  edit2: Just replaced my spark plugs and it made a huge difference. They were definitely very old plugs. NGK's, potentially the original ones... I still think the seafoam is degrading the octane of my fuel, but I hope the octane booster I put it will continue to mix and balance things out. Here's the knock table immediately after changing the plugs and doing some hard pulls. DAM started at 12, moved to 13 then there was a knock event that brought it down to 7. I have a feeling it was just some "growing pains" with the new plugs as I didn't notice any other knock events after the first one. 
Amandyke fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Jul 17, 2010 |
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Jul 16, 2010 19:10
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I'm about to start negotiating on a 03 Forester X to replace my horrible 97 Discovery. I really had my heart set on an XS due to the rear disc brakes and limited slip, but this 03 is local and being that I am in AK I'm kind of limited in selection/price. That said would it really make much difference to try to swap in a LSD into the X for winter driving? I commute 30+ miles a day in some of the worst winter weather on the planet so I'm willing to spend as much as is necessary to not get me stuck.
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Jul 18, 2010 10:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Is the 6-speed transmission physically much wider in order to accommodate those larger gears? I thought the STI and WRX transmissions were basically the same, packaging wise, but it would explain why there are different mounts for STI and WRX transmissions. The 6-speed case is huge. Barely fits in the trans tunnel, uses a shorter prop shaft, and seems like it weighs twice as much
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Jul 18, 2010 20:41
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Amandyke posted:I'm thinking it might just be the seafoam degrading the octane rating of my fuel. So I filled it up yesterday and put some octane booster into the tank this morning. Seafoam has various types of oil in it, which immensely lower octane ratings of fuel. I expect that contributes to it, maybe you have a bad coilpack too?
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Jul 18, 2010 20:48
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N183CS posted:I'm about to start negotiating on a 03 Forester X to replace my horrible 97 Discovery. I really had my heart set on an XS due to the rear disc brakes and limited slip, but this 03 is local and being that I am in AK I'm kind of limited in selection/price. That said would it really make much difference to try to swap in a LSD into the X for winter driving? I commute 30+ miles a day in some of the worst winter weather on the planet so I'm willing to spend as much as is necessary to not get me stuck. Yes it would make a world of difference. Luckily for you too, a cheap R160 can be had very easily and will be a straightforward swap.
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Jul 19, 2010 01:04
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I just cleaned the MAF sensor on my car and it solved my stumbling/hesitation/clunkiness issues massively. The air conditioning still rattles the car when it's on (probably a bad repair) but I can't believe how big of a difference just putting some spray on the MAF sensor made. Plus, when I was cleaning it a mosquito fell out of the sensor. Perhaps my (P(P))PO forgot to put in an air filter one day before driving it, but I'm preferring to believe that it just got in there while I was spraying for the sake of my own sanity. So, if you're having stumbliness issues, I can wholeheartedly recommend the CRC SensorKleen MAF spray. Also my PO can't read a book and ordered two passenger side wipers for the car. Changing out the wipers to the actually recommended ones made a huge difference to wiper efficacy. Perhaps next I will reverse their installed-lowering-springs-without-doing-an-alignment episode next.
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Jul 19, 2010 05:25
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PorkFat posted:gently caress, just my luck. Apparently I have an extended warranty on mechanical parts that I never knew about. I know I didn't purchase it with the car and I don't remember doing it later.
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Jul 19, 2010 05:40
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nm posted:They should be happy to install a better STI gasket as long as you cover the extra cost. Just ask, the labor all costs the same anyhow. Already done. Stock one it is! Let's hope that the Holt's Conditioner keeps this one in good condition until we sell it. As for the spark plug costing me $160: The plugs themselves were only $13 and change. The rest of the cost was labor and tax. Almost $100 to r&r spark plugs? Time to become a mechanic...
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Jul 19, 2010 06:03
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Cat Terrist posted:Yes it would make a world of difference. Luckily for you too, a cheap R160 can be had very easily and will be a straightforward swap. Awesome, tomorrow I'ma start talks over the phone (goddamn island life) and maybe find a friend in Anchorage to test drive it for me. Aside from head gasket and piston slap issues, what else should I be on the lookout for? They want 9995 but edmunds values the car at 7995 so I figure I'll offer 9k since they are kind of a rarity here, for sale anyway. They also have an 05 X for $14995 but it only has 60k miles. My horrible land rover tried to kill me by losing the brakes so I'm kinda desperate/vulnerable and ready to buy something now.
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Jul 19, 2010 07:35
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PorkFat posted:Already done. Stock one it is! Let's hope that the Holt's Conditioner keeps this one in good condition until we sell it. Oh sounded like you meant the plugs themselves were 160. An hour is a pretty standard rate for changing them. also, insist on the sti gasket. The price difference is negligable. Guy in alaska, that seems like a lot for the cars you're looking at jamal fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Jul 19, 2010 |
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Jul 19, 2010 08:19
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DaNzA posted:Anyone know the story behind this logo? It's the Legacy emblem in Japan. I've read a lot of explanations on the meaning of it, but nothing from Subaru officially.
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Jul 19, 2010 11:08
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Baby Hitler posted:Seafoam has various types of oil in it, which immensely lower octane ratings of fuel. I expect that contributes to it, maybe you have a bad coilpack too? I don't think any of my coilpacks are bad as the car idles perfectly and doesn't stumble or anything like that under load. I'll keep a close eye on them though. Thanks
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Jul 19, 2010 17:51
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All the '11 WRX and STI reviews are hitting today and is making me anxious for when I can buy one. In all, nothing TOO revolutionary about the two models, but they've both been tweaked for the better in the handling department.
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Jul 19, 2010 19:37
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Gonna have to agree with Seat Safety Switch on that CRC Maf cleaner. Had no idea there was a shiny metal plate at the bottom of the MAF sensor. Also replaced my air filter with a K&N drop in. Car feels stronger and idles smoother now.
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Jul 19, 2010 21:37
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I'm going to look at a 1998 2.5 rs later tonight. It has freshly redone head gaskets, water pump, and timing belts. Its the 5speed and it has 120k miles on it, less then 100 miles put on since the gaskets and such. The guy is asking 5000, but I'm not paying over 4500 if it comes to that. Anything I should be wary of?
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Jul 20, 2010 20:28
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